劳力士

当时格莱茨在伦敦担任秘书兼双语速记员，就像年轻的汉斯在库诺时的职位一样。她有个独特的业余爱好——闲暇时在泰晤士河中进行耐力游泳。

Now Gleits was a secretary and bilingual stenographer in London, much like young Hans was back at Kuno, who happened to have a, sort of unique hobby of endurance swimming in the River Thames in her free time.

那河水冷得吓人。

Which is insanely cold.

非常冷。我猜即便在当时，河水也相当污浊。但她就是如此擅长耐力游泳。据说她能在泰晤士河里一次性游上十个小时。

Very cold. And I assume even back then, quite polluted. But, so be it. And she was so good at endurance swimming. Apparently, she would swim for, like, ten hours at a time in the River Thames.

于是在1927年10月，她决定尝试横渡英吉利海峡。那里可能更冷。绝对寒冷。绝对波涛汹涌。而她成功了。

And so in October 1927, she decided that she was going to attempt to swim across the English Channel. Maybe even more cold. Definitely cold. Definitely pretty choppy. And she did.

她成为当年1927年10月首位成功横渡的英国女性。然而在她完成壮举几天后，另一位女性声称自己也游过了海峡，且速度更快。后来证实这是个骗局，梅赛德斯心知肚明。但为了自证清白，她决定进行一次备受媒体瞩目的正名之泳。

She became the first British woman to successfully do so that year in October 1927. However, a couple days after she completed her swim, another woman emerged and claimed to have also swum the channel, but have done it faster. And now it turns out that that actually was a hoax, and Mercedes knew it was a hoax. But in order to reprove herself, she decided to stage a vindication swim that gets hotly covered by the press.

想想看，她进行这次正名游泳时，已经花了十五小时横渡海峡。

Which mind you, she's doing this vindication swim. She's already spent fifteen hours swimming across the channel.

是啊。她能活着简直是奇迹。汉斯觉得：这就是我们的机会，正是我们需要的轰动事件。于是他策划了绝妙的营销噱头——让梅赛德斯佩戴新款劳力士蚝式表完成这次正名之泳。

Yeah. It's a miracle she's still alive at this point. Hans is like, oh, this is our moment. This is exactly the spectacle that we need. So he comes up with a brilliant marketing stunt of he is going to get Mercedes to do this vindication swim while wearing a new Rolex Oyster model.

而劳力士如今不愿提及的历史细节是：那块表其实并未戴在她手腕上。

And, what, Rolex doesn't talk about to these days is a footnote to history of it wasn't actually on her wrist.

该不会是像挂绳那样垂在脖子上吧？

It's not as like a lanyard around her neck.

没错。是用细链挂在颈间的。但无论如何，这仍是个惊人的营销手段。

Yeah. It was on a small chain that she wore around her neck. But nonetheless, this is an incredible stunt.

没有什么比数据更能毁掉一个好故事了。我们干脆把它圆过去吧。

Nothing ruins a good story like data. Let's just smooth it over.

真相。

The truth.

对。是的。

Yes. Yeah.

时至今日，这仍然在劳力士官网上占据显要位置。

This is still featured prominently on the Rolex website today.

梅赛德斯的照片到处都是，但这不重要。我是说，说到底，谁在乎表是不是戴在她手腕上呢？

Mercedes' photo is everywhere, but it doesn't matter. I mean, at the end of the day, who cares if it was on her wrist or not?

是啊。实际上她也没能游完全程，不过那也无所谓。

Yeah. She also doesn't actually make it, but that doesn't matter either.

还有更离谱的。我觉得那天要么特别冷，要么浪特别大之类的。她游了十五小时中的十小时。所以这个测试设计得有点随意。这可是块手表啊。

That's the other crazy thing. I think it was an especially cold day or especially choppy or something. She makes it 10 of the fifteen hours. So the design of the test is a little bit arbitrary. This is a watch.

虽然没戴在手腕上，也没能从英格兰一路游到法国。

While it wasn't on the wrist, and it didn't make it all the way from England to France.

但它还是在水中泡了很久。十个小时呢。确实可以算是不错的产品证明了。

It was still in the water for a long time. For ten hours. Yeah. Pretty good, product testimonial, shall we say.

作为证词。所以汉斯，之后

For a testimony. So Hans, after

这件事发生在第二天，他买下了《每日邮报》的头版，这是当时英国全国发行的报纸。我以前不知道过去还能这样做。你实际上可以买下头版作为广告位。

this event happens the next day, he buys the front page of the Daily Mail newspaper, which is a nationally syndicated newspaper in Britain at the time. I didn't realize you could do this back in the day. You could actually buy the front page as an advertisement.

我认为这很常见。在头版真正用于社论之前，这种做法持续了很久。早期头版经常整版都是广告。

I think it was common. I think it was a while before the front page was actually dedicated to editorial. And early on, it was very common for it to be a full page ad.

没错。汉斯就这样做了，宣布世界上第一款完全密封在表壳内、无需额外防水层的防水腕表——劳力士蚝式腕表的成功问世。

Yeah. So Hans does this and proclaims the success and announcement of the world's first waterproof wristwatch fully enclosed in its own case without a second hermetic seal around it and the triumphant launch of the Rolex Oyster.

劳力士是这么讲这个故事的。听过几次不同版本后，我本以为会看到某种特定形式的整版广告。结果重点信息被埋没了——或许这就是当年的广告风格——但最大字号写的不是「腕表成功横渡英吉利海峡」，而是「劳力士蚝式」，上面写着「劳力士首次推出制表史上最伟大成就」。

So this is how Rolex tells the story. After I had heard this told a few different times, I sort of expected to see this full page ad written in a certain way. It is kind of buried. Maybe this is what the advertising style was back in the day, but the big words are not watch survives English channel swim. The big words are Rolex Oyster, and it says Rolex introduces for the first time the greatest triumph in watchmaking.

好吧，我还是不知道它是什么。然后看到一张女性面孔的照片，写着「免费索取彩色手册」。

Okay. I still don't know what it is. Then I see a picture of a woman's face. Then it says, send for this colored brochure. It's free.

让你写信索要更多信息。接着是四款劳力士蚝式表盘的草图，然后写着「挑战自然元素的奇迹腕表」。文字铺天盖地，直到最后才在角落找到可能是第二小的字体。

Telling you to send in for more information. Then there's four sketches of the different watch faces you can get of the Rolex Oyster. And then it says, the wonder watch that defies the elements. There's words all over the place. You finally finally get to the tiniest text in the entire thing, maybe the second tiniest font.

这个小角落里写着：防潮、防水、耐热、防震、抗寒、防尘。要么是劳力士当时还没找到广告诀窍，要么是那时人们更愿意阅读大段文字。要是今天放这种广告，我们这些被短视频驯化的大脑只会说：不关心，下一个。信息量过载，完全埋没了「佩戴此表横渡海峡仍运转正常」这个核心卖点。

In this little corner, it says moisture proof, waterproof, heat proof, vibration proof, cold proof, dust proof. Either Rolex hadn't found their groove in advertising yet, or maybe people just read a lot more words back then. But if you put this up today, our TikTokified brains would be like, don't care. Next. There's way too many words, and they completely bury the lead that she did a channel swim with this thing, and it survived.

很难判断这有多少是当时广告业的普遍水平，又有多少是汉斯亲自操刀的设计。他偏执的控制欲体现在——据我所知直到去世或临近去世前——所有广告创意都由他亲自把关。

It's hard to know how much of this is just the state of the art in advertising at the time versus Hans designed and wrote all that himself. So one of his maniacal control things was, I believe, up until he died or pretty close to it, he did all the creative for all the advertising.

哦，这我倒不知道。

Oh, I didn't realize that.

是的。我们稍后会提到，在他去世前公司确实引入了智威汤逊广告公司。估计其他高管都在说：好了好了，汉斯。

Yeah. We'll get to it later, but they do bring on the J. Walter Thompson agency before he dies. Probably the the rest of the company is like, alright. Alright, Hans.

我们得在这里稍微专业一点。

We gotta professionalize a little bit here.

而他们真正变得极其出色的时期是在六十年代。

And that's when they get extremely good is in the sixties.

极其出色。没错。

Extremely good. Yes.

但我觉得可以公允地说，这里有两个有趣的发现。其一，他们当时还未在广告领域找到自己的节奏。其二，广告业尚未像《广告狂人》时代那样真正实现专业化。

But I think it's fair to say there's two interesting takeaways here. One, they hadn't found their groove in advertising yet. But two, advertising hadn't really been professionalized in a way that we would see in the Mad Men era.

完全同意。我们现在还处于二战前，尚未进入现代社会。是的。另一个非常有趣的点是，在研究过程中我也一直在思考这个问题。

Totally. We're still before World War two here. We're not yet in the modern world. Yep. The other thing that's really interesting is there's something about this that was sitting with me too during this research.

这是个极其重大的时刻——梅赛德斯·格利茨时刻，劳力士首位品牌大使。有趣的是，汉斯为这次发布选择的时机和人物是一位女性。

This is a major, major, major moment, the Mercedes Glitz moment, the first brand ambassador of Rolex. It's interesting that the moment and the person that Hans chose for this launch was a woman.

非常有趣。

Super interesting.

早在1927年。非常有趣。是的。一战前腕表本是女性用品，但一战后，我认为主要市场其实是男性市场。这很有意思。

Back in 1927. Super interesting. Yes. The wristwatch was a ladies item before World War one, but after World War one, really, I would think the big market is the men's market. It's interesting.

你深入研究过。这个时期，劳力士主要还是女性产品。男性市场正在增长。但如果你看他们的产品目录，直到二战前，女性款式数量都是男性款式的两倍。

You dug into it. In this era, Rolex still was primarily a ladies product. The men's market was growing. But if you look at their product catalogs, really up until World War two, ladies models outnumbered men's models two to one.

哇。就是那些小型的，类似王子表款？

Woah. These are the little, like, prince watches?

没错。确实如此。汉斯的愿景很明确，就是要让男女老少都能戴上腕表。但有趣的是，最初它们其实更偏向女性市场。后来我们深入调查并咨询了一些朋友。

Yep. Yep. And, definitely, Hans' vision was, like, a wristwatches for everybody, men and women. But it's interesting that they were really women's focused. And then we did a little more digging and asked some friends.

即便到今天，我相信劳力士的买家市场基本是男女各占一半。

And even to this day, I believe the market of buyers for Rolex watches is basically fifty fifty men and women.

这太不可思议了。我完全没想到会是这样，尤其我的调研主要潜伏在劳力士和腕表相关的Reddit论坛，那里聚集的可是特定类型的男性群体。至少从我的接触来看，腕表文化显得非常男性化。我是说，你在Hodinke上读到那些精彩的腕表文章，整个腕表鉴赏圈都偏向男性视角。

Which is insane. I never would have guessed that, especially because much of my research was lurking on the Rolex and watches subreddits, which are a very particular type of dude. It comes across as a very male thing, at least the way that I'm exposed to watches. I mean, you you read the amazing journalism about watches on Hodinke and the whole world around appreciating watches. It's kinda male focused.

就像保时捷911的受众一样。

It's like a Porsche nine eleven.

没错。令人惊叹的是劳力士的历史如此侧重女性市场，即便现今仍有大量产品流向女性消费者——尽管我在日常生活中接触到的劳力士并非如此。

Right. It's amazing that Rolex's history indexes so heavily to women, and that even today, they move a lot of units to women even though that's not where I come across Rolex in my day to day.

显然发烧友市场并不聚焦于此。但这就是劳力士最独特的地方。除了卡地亚这个例外，其他顶级腕表品牌基本都定位为男性专属。

Well, it's certainly not where the enthusiast market is focused. Yes. But it's one of the really unique things about Rolex. So many of the other really, really high end watch brands, with Cartier as an exception, I think really are men's brands. Oh, yes.

而劳力士，确实做到了男女平分秋色。

Whereas Rolex, yeah, it really is fifty fifty.

太神奇了。好吧，这就是梅赛德斯·格丽兹的故事。

Amazing. Alright. So that's Mercedes Glitz. That's

蚝式腕表的传奇，这确实是劳力士乃至整个腕表行业的重大转折点。

the oyster story, and that really is a huge watershed moment for Rolex and for the wristwatch industry.

她实质上就是首位代言人。虽然当时可能还没这个术语，但这将成为他们未来重点营销的手段。不过他们可不喜欢你称之为品牌大使。

And she's effectively the first testimony. I'm not sure they'd come up with that terminology yet, but this is something that they would lean heavily into as their means of marketing in the future. They would hate you calling it a brand ambassador.

是的。合作伙伴。他们称之为劳力士合作伙伴。

Yes. Partner. It's Rolex partner is what they call it.

不。我认为这是品牌见证。我很确定这是他们想创造并专有的特定词汇，它不同于 influencer marketing（影响者营销），也不同于某人签订五年合约代言香水广告的模式。这是一种非常长期导向的关系——你成为品牌的一部分，且终其一生都与品牌相连。

No. I think it's testimony. I'm pretty sure it's this, like, very particular word that they wanted to sort of invent and have to themselves, and it's different than influencer marketing. It's different than the way that someone appears in advertising a perfume for a five year deal. I think it's this very long term oriented you are a part of the brand, and you are a part of the brand kind of for your lifetime.

快进到今天，罗杰·费德勒是这一理念最纯粹的化身，但这属于未来。回到腕表产品本身，蚝式腕表虽大获成功，却有个问题。本，如你所说，关键在于无需将整只表密封在潜水舱里，但表冠必须能旋紧。表冠得像罐头盖子一样旋紧。这意味着每次上链时，你得先旋开表冠，拉出表冠上链，让机芯暴露在外，再重新旋紧。

Flashing all the way forward, it's Roger Federer is the purest embodiment of this today, but that is to come in the future. It turns out, though, back to the product of the wristwatch, Oyster was huge, but it had a problem. Ben, like you said, the key to making it work, you didn't have to have the whole scuba jar that you enclosed the whole watch in, but the crown had to screw down. The crown had to screw down like a jar. And so that meant that when you went to go wind the watch, you had to unscrew the crown, pull it out, wind the watch, expose it to the elements, and then screw it back in.

但凡了解人性就该知道，地球上至少一半人不会严格记得旋回表冠。

Well, if you know anything about humans, probably at least half the humans on the planet are not gonna be exactly fastidious about screwing the crown back in.

没错。这款突破性产品让腕表迎来'iPhone时刻'有三大支柱，而第三项'恒动'——即自动上链——正是魔法所在。

Yes. There are three pillars to what makes this a breakout product that enables the wristwatch to really have its iPhone moment, and that third of being perpetual, of being self winding is the magic.

是的。这些特性本质上是环环相扣的。深入研究后我才明白，自动上链本身固然很酷，但就像之前我对防水功能不以为意——这有什么重要的？

Yes. And these things are so intrinsically linked. And I didn't realize until getting so deep into the research, self winding watches are kinda cool on their own. But just like before, I was like, waterproof, whatever. Why is that important?

自动上链确实很酷，但手动上链有多麻烦？人们用怀表时几个世纪都是这么做的。关键在于它与蚝式结构和旋入式表冠的关联——如果你忘记旋紧表冠，蚝式的防水性就失效了。

Self winding, yeah, seems cool. But how hard is it to manually wind your watch? That's what people were doing with pocket watches for centuries. It's actually because it's tied to the oyster and the screw down mechanism. If you forget to screw your crown back down, you lose the element proofness of the oyster.

对。好了，我迫不及待要说了——恒动机芯的运作方式简直天才。各位听众...

Yes. Okay. I can't wait. The way that the perpetual movement works is totally genius. Alright, listeners.

现在正是感谢Acquired新合作伙伴Sentry的好时机。拼写是s-e-n

This is a great time to thank a new partner of ours here at Acquired, Sentry. That's s e n

t-r-y，就像站岗的哨兵。没错。Sentry帮助开发者调试错误和延迟问题，几乎能解决任何软件故障，在用户发怒前修复问题。正如其官网所言，它被4,000,000多名开发者评价为'还算不赖'。

t r y, like someone standing guard. Yes. Sentry helps developers debug errors and latency issues, pretty much any software problem, and fix them before users get mad. As their homepage puts it, it's considered, quote unquote, not bad by over 4,000,000 software developers.

今天我们要讨论的是Sentry如何与被收购宇宙中的另一家公司Anthropic合作。Anthropic曾有一些旧的监控基础设施，但在其庞大的规模和复杂性下，他们转而采用Sentry来更快地发现和解决问题。

So today, we're talking about the way that Sentry works with another company in the acquired universe, Anthropic. Anthropic used to have some older infrastructure monitoring that was in place, but at their massive scale and complexity, they instead adopted Sentry to help them find and fix issues faster.

没错。在AI领域，崩溃可能是个大问题。如果你正在运行像训练模型这样的大型计算任务，而一个节点失败，可能会影响数百或数千台服务器。Sentry帮助他们检测出故障硬件，以便在引发连锁问题前快速剔除。Sentry让他们能在几小时内而非几天内调试重大问题，从而恢复训练运行。

Yep. Crashes can be a massive problem in AI. If you're running a huge compute job like training a model and one node fails, it can affect hundreds or thousands of servers. Sentry helped them detect bad hardware so they could quickly reject it before causing a cascading problem. Sentry enabled them to debug massive issues in hours instead of days so they could get back to their training runs.

如今，Anthropic依赖Sentry实时跟踪异常、分配错误并分析故障，覆盖其研究团队使用的所有主要语言，包括Python、Rust和C++。据Anthropic团队称，Sentry为开发人员提供了一个集中获取调试问题所需全部信息的平台。

And today, Anthropic relies on Sentry to track exceptions, assign errors, and analyze failures in real time across all the primary languages used by Anthropic's research teams, including Python, Rust, and c plus plus According to the Anthropic team, Sentry gives our developers one place where they have all the information they need to debug an issue.

Sentry世界的另一个有趣更新是，本月起Sentry推出了名为SEER的AI调试器。SEER是一个AI代理，它能利用Sentry的所有问题上下文和你的代码库，不仅猜测问题根源，还能针对你的应用程序提出可直接合并的修复方案。

And one other fun update in the world of Sentry is that as of this month, Sentry now has an AI debugger called SEER. SEER is an AI agent that taps into all the issue context from Sentry and your code base to not just guess, but root cause gnarly issues and propose merge ready fixes specific to your application.

我们非常兴奋能与Sentry合作。他们拥有令人惊叹的客户名单，不仅包括Anthropic，还有Cursor、Vercel、Linear等。如果你想像超过13万家组织那样快速修复问题代码——从独立爱好者到全球最大企业——可以访问sentry.i0/acquired了解更多，他们还为所有Acquired听众提供两个月免费试用。就是Sentry，sentry.i0/acquired，只需告诉他们是本和大卫推荐你的。

We are pumped to be working with Sentry. They've got an incredible customer list, including not only Anthropic, but Cursor, Vercel, Linear, and more. If you wanna fix broken code like the over 130,000 organizations using Sentry from indie hobbyists to some of the biggest companies in the world to find and fix broken code fast. You can check out sentry.i0/acquired to learn more, and they are offering two free months to all Acquired listeners. That's Sentry, sentry,.i0/acquired, and just tell them that Ben and David sent you.

回到Oyster表，谈谈对自动上链和劳力士永恒元素的需求。如果能造出自动上链表，突然之间，Oyster的防水性能就适合所有人了，因为实际上没人需要旋开表冠。

So back to Oyster and leading into the need for self winding and the perpetual element of Rolex. If you can create a self winding wristwatch, well, all of a sudden, the element proofness of the Oyster works fine for everybody because nobody actually has to unscrew the crown.

你永远不必取出电池换新，也永远不用给Apple Watch充电。随便你怎么类比，但你就是——

You never have to pop out the battery and put in another one. You never have to charge your Apple Watch. You name the analogy, but you just

设置好就不用管了。

Set it and forget it.

没错。你整天走动，手表基本保持精准走时，还防水，而且永远不需要上链。听起来像是个神奇的产品，谁不想要呢？

Yep. You walk around all day. Your watch keeps perfect time ish, and it's waterproof, and you never need to wind it. Sounds like an amazing product. Who doesn't want that?

这简直就是史蒂夫·乔布斯风格的产品。

That's a Steve Jobs like product right there.

好的。在深入探讨劳力士特有的自动上链机制如何运作之前，我认为现在是个好时机，先解释一下机械表的基本工作原理及其核心部件。坦白说，

Okay. Before going into the nuance of how Rolex's particular self winding mechanism works, I think this is a good time to explain how mechanical watches work at all, what the key components are. And frankly

这就像炼金术一样。是其中

It's like alchemy. Is one of

为准备这期节目做过最酷的事情之一就是学习机械表的运作原理。简而言之，制造计时器需要两大核心部件：第一，储存能量的方式；第二，以可预测且精确的间隔释放能量的方式。

the coolest things ever done to prepare for an acquired episode was go learn how a mechanical watch works. At a high level, you need two major components to make a timepiece. First, a way to store energy, and second, a way to release that energy in a predictable and precise interval.

听起来像是，哦，对。当然，如今你可以用电池和电子元件实现这一点。但想象一下在没有电池和电子元件的情况下做到这些。

Which seems like, oh, yeah. Of course, you could do that these days with, you know, a battery and electronics. But imagine doing that without a battery and without electronics.

没错。关于第一点储存能量，有个叫主发条的装置。大卫，你在研究中读到过这个吗？

Exactly. So, yes, on that first one, storing energy, there is something called a mainspring. You read about this in the research, David?

嗯。

Yep.

主发条可以储存势能。想象一根一英尺长的细金属条，你把它紧紧卷起来塞进一个叫发条盒的东西里。这就像电影胶片被塞进胶片盒，就像你在电影院放映室里看到的一摞胶片盒那样。你应该想象的是发条盒里紧紧缠绕的主发条。有趣的是，大卫，这引出了你的观点，电池到底是什么？

A mainspring can store potential energy. So imagine a foot long skinny piece of metal that you wind real tight and you stuff into something called a barrel. This looks like a film strip that's kinda stuffed inside a film canister that you'd see a stack of canisters in a projector room at a movie theater. That's sort of what you should imagine, a real tightly wound mainspring inside that barrel. Now interestingly, to your point, David, this kinda begs the question, what is a battery?

对。是的。我说了电池。严格来说，那就是个电池。

Right. Yes. I said a battery. Technically, that is a battery.

没错。它就像个机械电池，因为它是储存势能供后续使用的方式。令人惊叹的是，如今机械表的运作如此节能，主发条储存的势能足以让手表走时约三天。太神奇了。

Right. It's like a mechanical battery since it's a way to store potential energy to be used later. Now amazingly, the way a mechanical watch works these days is so energy efficient that the mainspring can store on the order of three days of potential energy to tick the watch forward. It's amazing. Amazing.

好。接着说，显然单靠这个是不够的。如果你直接释放发条盒里的主发条，它会飞速旋转。所有齿轮都会跟着转，能量会瞬间全部释放。手表就坏了。

Okay. So moving on, obviously, this isn't sufficient on its own. If you just release the mainspring in the barrel, it would spin around real fast. It would make all the gears spin, and you'd let all the energy out at once. Break the watch.

是的。所以你需要某种装置来控制主发条的能量释放，并以缓慢固定的时间间隔进行释放。

Yes. So you need something to control the energy release from that mainspring and do it in slow fixed time intervals.

完全机械式的。

All mechanically.

对。你需要让手表发出滴答声的装置。

Yes. You need something to make the watch tick.

嘿，哦。

Hey, oh.

没错。制表师称之为擒纵机构。机械表中的擒纵机构有两个关键部件来利用主发条的势能：一个是擒纵叉（回头再说这个）

Yes. Watchmakers call this an escapement. Now an escapement in a mechanical watch has two key components to harness that potential energy from the mainspring. One is a pallet fork. Come back to that.

另一个叫摆轮。擒纵叉如何工作呢？它形似带齿的小T字，顶部边缘有齿牙，像老爷钟的钟摆般来回摆动——滴答、滴答。每次摆动都会推动手表所有齿轮前进一格

And two is something called the balance. So how does a pallet fork work? Well, a pallet fork looks like a little t with teeth on the edges of the top of the t, and it moves back and forth, a tick and a tock, like the pendulum of a grandfather clock. And as it flicks back and forth, it moves all the gears on the watch forward one tick

或者说一个节拍。这个元件可能位于传动链下游好几级，通常像是驱动其他所有部件的小时轮对吧？

or one beat. And there's this element that, this may be several steps down the chain where it's actually usually, like, the hour movement, right, that then drives all the other movements off of that?

取决于手表类型及其复杂功能。但关键要明白：当擒纵叉推动所有部件前进一个节拍时，实质是让所谓的擒纵轮转动一齿，从而驱动该表齿轮系中的其他部件。

Kinda depends on the watch and what complications are in it, things like that. But, yeah, the important thing to know is when one beat happens, when the pallet fork enables everything to move forward one beat, what it's really doing is allowing what's called the escape wheel to turn one click, and that drives whatever else is in the gear train for that particular watch.

明白了。有些表只显示时分，有些带秒针，还有些能显示日期、星期、月相甚至早餐内容等等。

Gotcha. Which some watches is, you know, just hours and minutes. Some watches is hours and minutes and seconds. Some watches is date, day, moon phase, what you had for breakfast, etcetera.

没错。这些被称为复杂功能的附加装置非常精妙——你可以像程序员那样推演实现逻辑："如果日期是31天，那么..."

Right. And with these complications, which are the sort of features, it's really amazing because you can sort of think through what the algorithm would be to make such a complication. But when you're thinking through it, you're thinking sort of like a programmer. You're saying, well, if this, then that, you know, if the date is thirty one days

是的。这些不是计算机。

Yeah. These are not computers.

没错。所有逻辑都通过齿轮组机械编码实现。这很美。我们上次讲到擒纵机构，那里有擒纵叉，就是这个小T形部件，发出滴答声。

Right. All of the logic is encoded mechanically in a gear train. It's beautiful. Yeah. So where we left off here is our escapement where we've got the pallet fork, and it's this little t, and it's a tick and a tock.

它来回摆动，推动齿轮每次前进一格。那如何让它持续摆动呢？擒纵叉滴答作响的机制是什么？这就引出了机械表的核心部件——摆轮。摆轮也由两部分组成。

It flicks back and forth and moves the gears all forward one tick. So how do you get it to tick back and forth? What is the mechanism by which this pallet fork goes tick tock tick tock tick tock tick tock? This is where we introduce a big hero of the whole mechanical watch story, the balance. And the balance also has two parts.

分别是摆轮和游丝。这两者围绕同一中心点固定。想象自行车轮子就是摆轮，类似呼啦圈。而齿轮就像自行车后轮的传动装置。

There's a balance wheel and a hairspring. And these two things are stuck together around the same center point. So picture the wheel of a bike, that that would be the balance wheel, kinda like a hula hoop. And then the gears go around the same axle on a bike. You know, you can imagine that you've seen the rear wheel of a bike.

在这个类比中，齿轮相当于游丝，外轮相当于摆轮。游丝看起来非常酷，是另一种金属卷簧，但比之前讨论的主发条更松弛灵活。与手表内部其他精密部件不同，摆轮组件几乎是悬浮的，运动时摩擦力极低。

In this analogy, those gears are the hairspring, and the outer wheel is the balance wheel. So that's what this component kinda looks like. The hairspring looks really cool. It is another coiled up piece of metal, although it's much looser and more fluid than the tightly wound mainspring that we talked about earlier. Unlike everything else that is incredibly tight inside a watch, this component, the balance, almost floats, and it moves with really low friction.

这很奇特，因为它与手表里其他所有部件都截然相反。其工作原理是游丝朝一个方向高速旋转。就像你拉弹簧时，它只能伸展到某个程度就会回弹。这个组件正是如此运作。

It's weird because it's the opposite of everything else that's in the whole watch. And the way it works is the hairspring spins really fast in one direction. And for anyone who's ever taken a spring and tried to uncoil it, you know, you kinda note that it only goes so far, and then it wants to go back to its resting position. And then you try to go the other direction and tighten it a little bit, and that doesn't work either, and it wants to go back to its natural resting position. That's what's happening here.

游丝先朝一个方向高速旋转，当储存能量被弹簧展开的机械阻力抵消时停止，随即反向高速旋转。如此循环往复，带动擒纵叉摆动，持续释放微小能量推动齿轮前进。这太美妙了。

So you've got the hairspring, which spins really fast in one direction, and then the energy that it has stored is overcome by the mechanical resistance of unwinding the spring, so it stops, and then it spins real fast in the other direction. And this cycle goes back and forth, spinning back and forth, tick and tock, and flicking that pallet fork back and forth to continually release one little interval of energy and one little advance of the whole gear train. It is beautiful.

太神奇了。完全能理解为什么对特定人群来说，这就像保时捷911，令人无法抗拒。

Amazing. You can totally see why for the right kind of person, this is like a Porsche nine eleven or, like, it's just catnip. You can't get enough of this.

完全正确。未来劳力士会推出名为Parachrom游丝的专利技术，配有精美渲染动画视频展示其原理。实际运转速度极快，并非如我描述的缓慢往复。

That's exactly right. And, you know, you end up with fancy names and proprietary things that Rolex makes in the far future called a Parachrom hairspring that has these amazing renders and animations and videos of how it works. It's gorgeous. Now this happens really fast. This isn't like I just described it, where you go really far in one direction, then you run out of energy, and then you come back.

根据表款不同，这个动作每秒发生3-6次。当你把表贴近耳朵听到的滴答声就是它在工作。擒纵叉驱动整个齿轮系，以精准节奏释放能量带动指针和复杂功能（星期/日期等）。最疯狂的是，这一切完全依赖所用金属的物理特性——时间计量本质上由宇宙物理法则决定：弹性、抗拉强度、惯性以及特定材料储存的势能。

This happens three, four, five, six times per second depending on the watch. And that's if you hold a watch up to your ear and you hear tick tick tick tick tick tick tick tick These beats, that's what you're hearing. So the pallet fork drives that whole gear train, releasing energy that powers the hands and all the other complications, the day, the date, etcetera, at exactly the right pace. So when you take a step back and you look at it all, the craziest thing is that it depends on the exact physical properties of the metals that are used. The time is literally kept by the physical laws of the universe, elasticity, tensile strength, inertia, potential energy stored by specific materials.

如今他们已将这门技艺发展到如此精密的程度，经认证的天文台表每天误差不超过两秒。

And they have this down to such a precise science today that watches keep time certified chronometers keep time within two seconds per day.

太疯狂了。

Bonkers.

这太棒了。我刚列举了手表的四个部件，而实际有200个零件。虽然这是极度简化的说法，但基本说明了手表的工作原理。

It's awesome. I just named four parts of a watch. There are 200 parts. This is an oversimplification, but kind of the general concept of how a watch works.

是啊。其他部件同样令人惊叹。比如表内会使用宝石——因为所有齿轮都需要在产生摩擦的部件上转动，所以需要极低摩擦的材料。结果发现，将红宝石和蓝宝石研磨成小螺母状是最佳解决方案。所以你手表里确实装着用于机械用途的天然宝石。

Yeah. The other parts are also amazing. I mean, things like there are jewels in the watch because all of these gears need to turn on things that create friction, and so you need extremely low friction things. And, well, it turns out that, like, actually rubies and sapphires that are milled into little nuts are the best way to do that. And so there are actual jewel stones inside your watch that are being used for a mechanical purpose.

由于宝石是硬度极高的矿物，可以避免零件磨损。想想看，当某个部件每秒来回摆动六次时——大多数劳力士手表十年才需要保养一次，这些零件几乎不会磨损，这简直不可思议。

And because jewels can be really hard minerals, and you don't want these things to wear out. And so when you're slapping something back and forth six times per second, you wanna make sure that I mean, most Rolex watches don't need to go in for service until every, I don't know, once a decade. It's crazy that these things just don't wear out.

没错。就说我现在戴的迪通拿吧，至少十五年了从没保养过，走时依然分秒不差。

Yeah. I mean, gosh, the Daytona I'm wearing right now, I don't think it's ever been serviced, and it's at least fifteen years old, if not more than that, and keeps time perfectly.

这太酷了。这是门延续五百年的工艺——通过主发条将能量传递给带有摆轮和游丝的擒纵机构，使其来回摆动。数字技术乃至大多数模拟技术都是在这之后才发明的。

It's so cool. And this is a 500 year old art. The idea of the mainspring that applies energy to a escapement that has a balance wheel and a hairspring to oscillate it back and forth, This isn't new. Every piece of digital technology, heck, most analog technologies are invented after this. Totally.

让我们回到你提到的

So to bring us back to the perpetual on your

劳力士的恒动机制，在历经数百年发展的极致精密机芯上，叠加自动上链这种复杂功能绝非易事。这不是写几行代码就能解决的。

Rolex watch, you can imagine that adding this element of self winding to the insane complexity that has been developed over centuries with extreme tolerances that are already in these watch movements, Not exactly a trivial thing to do. You can't just code it up in software.

确实。特别要说明的是，还记得我提到储存三天能量的主发条吗？卷紧的发条会产生巨大阻力。试想用手转动表冠时有多费劲。所以设计自动上链机制时，必须找到机械增益的方法来给已经紧绷的装置上弦。

No. And in particular, what we're talking about here is remember I talked about the mainspring that stores three days worth of energy inside the barrel all coiled up? There's a ton of resistance on that. I mean, if you think about if you pop open a crown on a watch and you go to turn it with your thumb, it's kinda hard to turn. And so if you're gonna come up with a self winding mechanism, you need some way in which you are using mechanical advantage to wind something that's already wound really tight even tighter.

是的。

Yes.

于是我们来到了二十年代末。大约在这个时候，一位名叫约翰·哈伍德的英国手表发明家提出了一种自动上链系统。有趣的是，这并非他的终极目标。他当时和劳力士一样，试图打造防水系统。而他采取的方法是——

So here we are in the late twenties. Right around this time, a British watch inventor named John Harwood comes up with an automatic system for watches. Now interestingly, that wasn't his end goal. He was trying to create a waterproof system just like Rolex was. And the way that he went about it was he said, oh, yeah.

正如我们之前讨论的，表冠是手表防水性能中最薄弱的环节。如果我从根本上取消表冠会怎样？据说某天他看到孩子们玩跷跷板获得灵感，由此设计出所谓的'锤击系统'——通过手腕摆动带动锤状部件上下撞击机芯两侧。

Like we were talking about, it's the winding crown that is the weakest link in the element proofness of a watch, what if I just start by eliminating the winding crown? Can I do that? And supposedly, he gets inspired one day by watching children play on a seesaw, and that gives him the idea for his method of how he creates something called the hammer system of, hammer going up and down and hitting different ends inside the watch as the wrist moves around.

你可以想象那种'咔嗒、咔嗒'不断转动的场景。

You can imagine that turning a crank, crank, crank, crank, crank.

没错。他发明这个系统后，就像发明蚝式结构的瑞士同行那样申请了专利。但他选择不直接生产手表，而是成立知识产权公司，将自动上链技术授权给其他制表商。确实有几家厂商采用了这项技术。

Yep. So he invents this system. And just like, his Swiss counterparts who invented what became the Oyster system under Rolex, he patents it. Now what he decides to do is rather than making a watch out of this, he's gonna create a company that's just an IP company, and he's gonna license this self winding IP to other watchmakers, which he does. And a couple watchmakers out there take him up on it and incorporate it into their products.

然而这个设计存在致命缺陷：完全取消了手动上链功能。如果手表停走，除非连续佩戴多日让发条重新蓄能，否则根本无法校准时间。

However, it doesn't prove too popular in the marketplace because a consequence of how he designed the system, the manual winding capability in the crown is eliminated entirely. Oh. So if your watch stops, if you don't wear it and you lose the charge in the mainspring, good luck getting it going again. You gotta wear it for days or whatever to just get the energy back in there, and then you can Set the time. The time.

有意思的是，由于英国专利法的特殊性，哈伍德公司实际上垄断了所有自动上链技术的专利权。

Oh, interesting. So that's a pretty big flaw in this watch. But because of how the patent was granted, at least in The UK, he and his company end up holding the rights to all self winding watch technology.

哇，这范围太广了。

Wow. That is broad.

在英国确实如此——无论采用何种技术方案。劳力士的汉斯深知自动上链对释放蚝式潜力的重要性，但受制于这项专利束手无策。

In Britain, yeah, no matter what the method is, or at least that's my understanding. Brutal. So Hans, of course, in Rolex sees this. He knows he needs an automatic system for the Oyster to really unlock the potential of the product and fully break the wristwatch product for the marketplace here, but his hands are tied. He can't do anything, at least in Britain, as long as Harwood has this patent.

汉斯清楚哈伍德的方案存在缺陷，拒绝技术授权。转机出现在1929年——股市崩盘和大萧条导致哈伍德公司破产，这项专利束缚终于解除。

And Hans knows that ultimately the method that Harwood uses is not good. He's not gonna license from Harwood because he knows it's an inferior implementation. Yep. And then fortunately, fate strikes, and the market does its thing. And in 1929, Harwood's company goes bankrupt, probably aided along by the stock market crash from 1929 and the entering into the Great Depression, etcetera.

终于，汉斯和劳力士现在可以在这里完成这款产品了。

So finally, the door is now open for Hans and Rolex to complete the product here.

是的。我们身处1929年，给大家一个快速参考点。当时有篇文章说，你只需25美元就能买到一块劳力士。即使按通胀调整，相当于今天的450美元，最高一千美元则相当于现在的18,000美元。如今劳力士的顶级表款远不止18,000美元，入门款也远超450美元。

Yep. And while we're here in 1929, just a quick reference point for folks. There was an article published at this time that said you could get a Rolex for as little as $25. Even if you inflation adjust that, it's like $450 today, or for as high as a thousand dollars, which is 18,000. Rolex's top of their line today is a lot more than $18,000, and the bottom of their line is a lot more than $450.

但这让你了解在那个历史时期需要多少财富才能购买劳力士。这是一笔不小的开支，但并非仅限于精英阶层。绝对不是。此时的劳力士

But that gives you a sense of the type of wealth you would need in order to purchase a Rolex at this point in history. It was a meaningful purchase, but not a purchase reserved for only the elite class. Definitely not. Rolex at this point

还不是奢侈品牌。没错。它将在未来几十年转型为奢侈品牌。但现在，汉斯真正专注的领域是他的天才之处——创造腕表产品。他希望全世界每个人手腕上都能戴着手表。是的。

is not a luxury brand. Correct. It's going to transform into one over the ensuing decades. But, no, now, you know, Hans was really, really focused, and his genius and contribution to the field was on creating the product of the wristwatch. And he wanted the wristwatch to be on every wrist in the world Yep.

他做到了。现在我们来到30年代初。经过几年努力，劳力士终于突破并获得了他们所谓的“自动上链系统”专利，至今仍是整个行业主要的自动上链方式。这是表壳背面一个双向旋转的恒动摆陀，通过佩戴者手腕运动捕获动能。重要的是，与锤式结构不同，它能360度自由双向旋转，不会撞击任何部件。

Which he achieved. So here we are in the early thirties. After a couple years of work, Rolex finally cracks it and patents their own rotor, quote, unquote, self winding system, which still to this day is the primary method of self winding across the entire industry. This is a perpetual rotor at the back of the watch case that spins around in both directions and captures kinetic energy as the wearer moves their wrist around. And importantly, unlike the hammer movement, it spins three sixty freely in either direction, so it's not hitting anything.

是的。哈伍德系统的另一个问题是锤头撞击两端时会发出噪音。

Yep. One of the other problems with the Harwood system was when the hammer struck each end, it made a noise.

哦，真的吗？

Oh, really?

对。你能听到手表发出咔嗒、咔嗒的声响。劳力士推出的恒动系统最初营销亮点之一就是静音性，他们称之为‘无声自动上链系统’。

Yeah. Yeah. You'd where you're watching it go, clack, clack, clack, clack. One of the initial marketing points for the rotor system, the perpetual system that Rolex comes out with is the silentness of they call it the silent self winding system.

这太有趣了。真是天才设计。想象一下——大家可能看过自动上链表视频或照片——一个围绕中心点旋转的圆盘，切掉半边后，由于近乎无摩擦的系统，只要稍微倾斜手表，摆陀较重的一侧就会因重力下垂。

Oh, that's really interesting. And it's genius. You know, you can imagine I'm sure people have seen videos or photos of a self winding watch. Imagine a disc that sits around a center point, and then you cut off half the disc. And so what happens is whenever you're you're swinging your wrist around or because it's a near frictionless system, whenever you tilt the watch at all, the heavy side of the rotor falls down due to gravity to whatever side is lower.

于是你一整天都不经意地让这个恒动摆陀不断旋转，利用它来为主发条上链。

And so you're just constantly all day inadvertently spinning this perpetual rotor around and around and around and using that to wind the mainspring.

没错。这是一项令人难以置信的创新，也是叠加在所有其他机械腕表工程壮举之上的又一工程奇迹。最初推出时，你知道，当你在表背加入这一新结构层时，会让表背略微凸起。

Yep. It's an incredible innovation and feat of engineering stacked on top of all these other incredible feats of engineering that go into mechanical watches. When they first start, you know, you're adding a new layer to the movement when you do this in the back of the watch. It makes the watch back protrude a little bit.

哦，泡泡背？

Oh, the bubble back?

对，对对。这些早期投放市场的蚝式恒动表，如今被收藏家称为泡泡背，因为它们的表背会从表耳处微微凸起贴合手腕。

Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. These early oyster perpetuals that are first launched into the market are known by collectors as bubblebacks now because the back of them sticks out a little bit onto the wrist off of the lugs.

太酷了。还有个有趣的点在于，这确实是劳力士的原创发明。蚝式是授权技术，走时精准的功劳全归埃格勒的创新。这是我们首次真正看到劳力士研发部门为钟表界带来全新突破性贡献。

It's so cool. And the other fun thing about this is it is legitimately an invention by Rolex. Oyster was licensed. The credit for how accurate they were was really all Eggler's innovation. This is the first time we're really seeing Rolex r and d figure out some brand new breakthrough contribution to the watch world.

是的。这项技术问世后，就构成了劳力士技术的三大支柱，也奠定了此后所有高品质机械腕表的技术基础：天文台认证的精准走时、蚝式结构的防水防尘性能，以及恒动系统的自动上链——蚝式恒动。

Yep. And once this is in place, these are the three key pillars of Rolex technology and really all mechanical wristwatch technology of quality from this point forward. You've got the accuracy, the chronometer, Observatory certified. You've got waterproofness, element proofness via the Oyster, and now you've got self winding with the perpetual. Oyster Perpetual.

齐活了，都在这里了。

Here it is. That's all here.

没错。1934年他们推出了完整系统——被收藏家称为泡泡背的蚝式恒动天文台表。首次为腕表设计新外观，为这些新款蚝式恒动表采用钢金双色组合，命名为Rolesor（金钢），这名字朗朗上口。

Yep. So in 1934, they launched the full system, the Oyster Perpetual Chronometer, the bubblebacks known by collectors. And for the first time, they introduce a new look for the watches, a two tone mix of steel and gold for these new Oyster Perpetuals that they call Rolesor. It really just rolls off the tongue.

就在你手腕上呢，大卫。

Right there on your wrist, David.

就在这儿。不是我的迪通拿，但我的日志型确实戴着这款。这种金钢组合如今已成为劳力士的标志性设计。

Right there. Not on my, Daytona, but it is on my Datejust. This is the golden steel mix that is now just an iconic Rolex look.

中间链节是金的，两侧链节是钢的。

And that's where that center link is the gold, and the outer two links are the steel.

没错。现在你提到的是表链。长久以来，表链都是由第三方公司制造的。劳力士将这部分外包出去。但那种设计风格甚至延续到了表壳本身。

Yep. Now you're talking about the bracelet there. Bracelets for a long, long, long time are made by third party companies. Rolex contracts them out. But that look even goes on to the case itself.

哦，明白了。

Oh, okay.

表链通常与表壳相呼应，但在一个表壳内同时使用黄金和钢材，可以说是当时劳力士带来的新设计。

The bracelet usually echoes the case, but combining gold and steel within one watch encasement was a new look, shall we say, from Rolex at this time.

你知道还有什么是延续至今的有趣设计吗？劳力士和大多数工具表都有锯齿状表圈。锯齿设计是为了便于抓握。最初设计锯齿是为了在需要旋开后盖时，能像螺丝头一样提供着力点。

You know what else kinda carries through today, which is kinda interesting? Rolex and just most tool watches have fluted bezels. The flutedness is because it makes it easier to grip. So when you need to screw the back off, that was the original reason for fluting, was to give you a screw head effectively to get leverage to pop it off.

是的。这个设计很棒。

Yes. Love it.

好的。说到三十年代初期，让我们快速浏览其他有趣的发展——1931年首次出现了五尖皇冠标志。1931年是个特殊年份，劳力士刚开始完善产品组合，同时世界陷入大萧条。英镑贬值导致英国出口下降了三分之二。

So okay. While we're in the early thirties, just to breeze us through a bunch of other interesting stuff that's happening, the first time the crown, the logo, the five point crown starts appearing is 1931. 1931 was a weird year because Rolex was just starting to figure out this perfect product mix, and at the same time, the world is heaved into a great depression. And the British pound is devalued. So exports out of Britain dropped by two thirds.

危机来临。于是劳力士寻求国际化布局，在巴黎、布宜诺斯艾利斯和米兰开设新办事处。他们组织前往南美、西印度群岛、中国和日本的考察，试图在全球危机中稳定业务。

Crisis happens. So Rolex is looking to internationally diversify. So they open new offices in Paris, Buenos Aires, and Milan. They organize these trips to South America, The West Indies, China, Japan. They're really trying to figure out how do we stabilize things while the world is in crisis.

但他们当时的产品定位很准确。

But they've got the right product in market.

对。我记得红杉资本或至少是迈克尔·莫里茨说过，经济衰退是创新的最佳时机。因为当衰退结束时，你已经准备好用最佳产品加速发展。

Yep. I feel like there's an old, Sequoia saying or at least a Mike Moritz saying that recessions are the best time to innovate. Because coming out of the recession, you're gonna have the best product ready to hit the gas.

没错。而且竞争对手也更少。

Right. And fewer competitors.

没错，正是如此。

Yep. Exactly.

我要说个很有意思的事，1932年欧米茄推出了一款防水表，比劳力士晚了大概五年。这被认为是世界上第一款潜水表。但如今没人提这事。人们一提到潜水表就想到劳力士，可欧米茄才是第一个做潜水表的。

I will say very interestingly, in 1932, Omega released a waterproof watch, which is, I don't know, half a decade after Rolex. This is considered to be the world's first dive watch. No one talks about this today. You hear dive watch, you think Rolex, but Omega had the first dive watch.

大家都会想到潜航者。对。哦，我马上要讲些特别有趣的二战时期潜水表故事。

You think Submariner. Yeah. Oh, I've got some really, really, really fun World War two dive watch stuff in a sec.

哦，太好了。

Oh, great.

但在讲二战之前...

But before we get to World War two.

好。1936年我觉得是个重要时刻，正好印证你刚才说的。当竞争对手因经济困境纷纷倒下时，如果你的产品在市场上表现良好，就有机会巩固地位。这时劳力士找到艾格勒说：我们想包下你们全部产量。

Okay. In 1936, I feel like this is a big moment and kind of exactly what you were saying. As your competitors fall off a cliff due to economic hardship, there's an opportunity if you have the right product that's working well in the market to kinda consolidate power. This is when Rolex goes to Egler and says, hey. We wanna take all of your production.

于是Gruen停止从艾格勒采购机芯。我认为劳力士可能这时从艾格勒回购了股份。但再说一次，我们永远无法确认，因为劳力士永远不会谈及此事。也是在这时，艾格勒将劳力士加入了公司名称。

And so Gruen stops buying movements from Egler. This is where I think Rolex may have bought the shares back from Egler. But, again, we don't know and we'll never know because no one at Rolex will ever talk about that. And this is also when Egler adds Rolex to its name.

艾格勒制造厂-劳力士手表。

The Egler manufacturer of Rolex watches.

没错。现在带我们进入二战时期吧。

Yes. So take us into World War two.

1940年战争初期要记住，劳力士在瑞士，原本主要出口英国——当时仍是他们最大的市场——但供应线被切断了。法国沦陷后，中欧到英国的渠道中断。于是劳力士和其他瑞士表商都在想：糟了。既然到不了英国，就得找其他市场销售。

At the beginning of the war in 1940, remember, Rolex is in Switzerland, exporting to The UK, which was still by far their biggest market, gets cut off. Supply lines from Central Europe to The UK are cut off after France falls. And so Rolex and all the other Swiss watchmakers are like, well, shoot. Okay. If we can't get to England, we gotta go find other markets to sell to.

这就像新冠疫情初期，你知道的，所有公司都在临时开发新产品尝试各种业务。这是我最喜欢的冷知识花絮。

It's like the beginning of COVID when, you know, all these companies are making up other products and doing all sorts of stuff. This is my very favorite sidebar piece of trivia.

哦，我完全猜不到你要说什么。

Oh, I have no idea where you're going.

那你知道劳力士当时在意大利做了什么吗？我完全没想到。他们四处寻找机会，试图开拓业务。他们在意大利的零售合作伙伴接到了意大利海军的合同，要为潜水员供应手表。

So do you know what Rolex did in Italy during this time? I have no idea. They're casting about. They're trying to find something. Their retail partner in Italy gets a contract from the Italian Navy to supply watches to their divers.

于是这个意大利零售伙伴找到劳力士说：嘿，我们拿到了潜水表的合同，你们能为我们生产潜水表吗？劳力士回答：当然可以。

And so this Italian retail partner comes to Rolex and is like, hey. We got a contract for dive watches. Can you make dive watches for us? And Rolex is like, yeah. Sure.

我们完全能做到，工厂现在正闲着没事做呢。

We can do that. We're just sitting on our hands here at our factories.

有趣的是这比潜航者型手表早了差不多十五年。

Which is funny because this is, like, a decade and a half before the Submariner.

没错。没错。没错。这是劳力士制作的第一款潜水表。

Yes. Yes. Yes. Yes. This is the first dive watch that Rolex makes.

你能猜到那个意大利零售伙伴的名字吗？

Can you guess the name of the Italian retail partner?

我猜可能是...不知道，汽车公司之类的？

I feel like it's gonna be, I don't know, car company.

不不不，名字更直白。就是沛纳海。

No. No. No. It's even more on the nose. This is Panerai.

这是沛纳海手表。

This is the Panerai watch.

哦，真的吗？

Oh, really?

沛纳海制造的手表。所以，你知道，任何了解沛纳海的人都知道，这是非常著名的装饰艺术风格潜水表。他们现在有两个主要型号，Luminor和Radiomir。是的。沛纳海在二战前是一家零售商。

Makes the Panerai watch. So, you know, anybody who knows Panerai, famous, you know, very art deco style dive watch. They have two main models now, the Luminor and the Radiomir. Yeah. Panerai was a retailer before World War two.

他们当时不是制表商。哇。战后，沛纳海继续生产这些手表。这不是很神奇吗？

They weren't a watchmaker. Woah. And then after the war, Panerai kept going making these watches. Isn't that amazing?

完全不可思议。这也突显了瑞士成为制表强国的另一个原因。这是一个非常依赖工程技术的工业领域，而他们因为完全中立无需为战争投入任何资源。因此，他们的工匠、机械师等所有人可以继续制造手表。

Totally amazing. And this also underscores another reason why Switzerland was such a watchmaking powerhouse. This is a very engineering heavy industrial thing, and they didn't have to devote any resources to the war because they were completely neutral. And so all of their craftspeople and machinists and everything can keep making watches.

没错。他们当时正将产品卖给轴心国的意大利海军。与此同时，他们最关注的是设法重新向英国出口，即向他们过去在盟军一方的主要市场销售。到了1940年，他们确实找到了将手表重新销往英国的方法——先通过西班牙和葡萄牙‘洗白’货物，再经直布罗陀海峡运抵英国。

Yep. And so here they are selling to the Italian Navy on the Axis side. Meanwhile, the thing that they're most focused on is trying to figure out some way to start reexporting to Britain, selling to their old main market on the Allied side. They do figure out later in 1940 how to get watches back into Britain. They sort of launder them first through Spain and Portugal, and then through the Strait Of Gibraltar, get up to Britain.

这变得至关重要，因为如果说一战造就了腕表市场，那么二战则让精密腕表市场变得极其重要。一战堑壕战中的士兵需要协调行动与时间，而二战中的军人面对的是高度技术化的战争，涉及飞机、航空母舰等大量科技装备。

This becomes critical because what is World War two that World War one was I mean, World War one made the market for the wristwatch. Right? But World War two made the precision wristwatch market super important. If you're a soldier in the trenches in World War one, you need to coordinate movements and time and whatnot. If you're a military service member in World War two, it is a very technical war involving a lot of technology, involving airplanes, involving aircraft carriers.

还有协同作战。各种新式战术——坦克集群、协同攻击、隐蔽行动等等。比如不列颠空战作为关键战役，所有英国皇家空军飞行员都佩戴着劳力士手表。

And synchronized attacks. All sorts of thing. Tanks, synchronized attacks, all this stuff, stealth. So the air battle of Britain, you know, is such a key moment in the war, key theater. All of these British Royal Air Force pilots, they're all wearing Rolex watches.

因为此时劳力士已能制造最精良、最精准且最耐各种恶劣环境的腕表。想想看，飞行员经历气压剧烈变化，二战战斗机的所谓‘舱室’根本没有加压系统。这些手表必须能承受极端条件，通常还要靠它们进行导航。

Because at this point, Rolex make the best wristwatches, the most accurate, the most weatherproof to all the elements. You know, you're going through all sorts of pressure changes, going up, going down. You know, these cabins, quote, unquote, if you could call them that of World War two fighter planes, there's no pressurization in there. These watches need to be able to withstand a lot of elements. Usually, you're navigating by them.

你可能正在黑夜中飞行。哇，这真是无比关键。

You might be flying in the dark. Wow. Super, super important stuff.

再次强调，我对此持保留意见，我怀疑欧米茄才是当时的领军品牌。在瑞士制表界，欧米茄于四十年代、五十年代乃至六十年代都蓬勃发展。

Again, I would push back on it was just I would suspect Omega is the leading brand at this time. Omega was thriving in the forties, fifties, even into the sixties in the Swiss watch world.

确实如此。劳力士并非唯一向双方销售手表的品牌。但无论如何，二战彻底改变了人们对腕表功能的需求。空战或许是最直观的体现，但细想之下，二战催生的技术革新远不止于此。

Yes. That is definitely true. Rolex weren't the only ones that were selling to both sides here. But nonetheless, World War two is really changing the nature of what you need out of a wristwatch. And air battles are maybe the most visceral, but then you start to think about all the other stuff that went into World War two.

无线电通讯、雷达技术、早期计算机、核武器及相关科技相继问世，科学家们构建这些系统时，时间精度成为至关重要的要素。

There's radio communications. There's radar. There's early computing. There's nuclear weapons and technology coming out of that. There's scientists that are building all these things, and time is, like, a really, really important element for this stuff.

因此我们见证了军事用途腕表的诞生，但很快这种需求就转化为专业领域对精密计时器的普遍需求。

So you've really got this birth of a new military use case, but then soon to be transitioned to professional need for watches and for time in

世界格局。真有意思。实际上战后时期才是劳力士真正开始规划产品线的阶段。我们之前讨论过他们凭借‘蚝式恒动官方认证计时码表’在正确时机推出了完美产品，但具体到产品形态，当时可谓五花八门。

the world. So interesting. Well, coming out of the war is really when Rolex starts to figure out their product lineup. I mean, we talked about, oh, they had the perfect product at the perfect time with this Oyster Perpetual officially certified chronograph. Well, what that looked like in product form was all kinds of crap.

虽然都宣称具备相同功能，但表壳设计千奇百怪。不像现在能在官网浏览六大系列及其子款式。翻阅旧广告和目录时，你甚至会困惑某些表款的名称——因为它们彼此差异大得离谱。战后初期，他们才逐渐意识到标准化产品线的重要性。

They all said that, and that's how they all worked, but the cases were everything you could imagine. It's not like you could browse on their website and see, we make these six main families of watches with these sub variations underneath. It was far from it. You look at these old advertisements and catalogs, you're like, I don't even know what that thing's called because it just looks so different than everything else. As they're coming out of the war, this is when they're starting to figure out, oh, a standardized product lineup.

虽然尚未完全成型，但很快我们就会为每款表建立专属品牌形象，明确目标人群及其佩戴时传递的身份象征。

And not quite yet, but soon, we're gonna build brand around each one of these things and who it's for and what it says about you if you wear this type of watch.

没错。你正在预示工具表或运动表的诞生——为特定技术场景打造的表款，更准确说是彰显佩戴者特质的时计。这正是二战留给产品端的遗产。但首先就市场而言，战争刚结束，欧洲市场已不复存在，整个欧洲满目疮痍。

Yes. You are foreshadowing tool watches or sport watches, a watch for a specific technical use case or more accurately, a watch that says something about you as the wearer. That is the legacy of World War two to come on the product side. But first, just on the market side, as soon as the war is over, there's no more European market. Europe is in shambles.

哦，但你知道哪个市场完好无损吗？是美国。没错。

Oh. But you know what market there is is America. Yeah.

想想看，哪个国家的城市未被炸成废墟？哪个国家民众拥有可支配收入？还有大批退伍军人正荣归故里。

You know who didn't have their cities all just destroyed and bombed to oblivion and has disposable income and GIs returning home.

没错。要知道，现在谁站在新世界秩序的顶端，至少在资本主义阵营这边。我不认为共产主义者会买很多劳力士。

Yep. You know, who is atop the new world order now, at least on the capitalist side. I don't think communists were buying a lot of Rolexes.

我敢肯定有些关于二战后黑市共产主义商人向俄罗斯倒卖劳力士的疯狂故事。这事肯定发生过。

I'm sure there's some crazy stories about black market communist dealers of Rolexes to Russia post World War two. I'm sure that happened.

肯定有。我记得卡斯特罗以喜爱劳力士而闻名。

There must be. I'm pretty sure Castro famously loved Rolexes.

我觉得他甚至戴了两块。有些照片里能看到他同时戴着两块劳力士。

I think he even wore two. There's, like, some photos of him where he's wearing two Rolexes.

太神奇了。太神奇了。

Amazing. Amazing.

是啊。我正在查

Yeah. I'm looking up

现在。这简直是在呐喊共产主义，手腕上同时戴好几块劳力士。

right now. Screams communism, like multiple Rolexes on your wrist.

找到了。他戴着一块劳力士GMT和一块潜航者，在同一只手腕上。

Here it is. He's wearing I think it's a Rolex GMT and a Submariner on the same wrist.

没错。

Yes.

他说其中一块是备用表，以防第一块停了，但这可能性极低。我猜是为了显示莫斯科时间。

He referred to one as a backup in case the first stops working, but that's extremely unlikely. I suspect it's to keep Moscow time.

或者他只是想在手腕上戴两块劳力士，因为他可以这么做。

Or he just wanted to wear two Rolexes on his wrist because he could.

是啊。没错。完全正确。

Yeah. Right. Exactly.

好吧。战后劳力士的非黑市市场，如果你想去某个地方，那一定是美国。汉斯和公司设计了一个几乎是最天才的三推计划去那里。三推计划。听着。

Okay. Well, the non black market for Rolexes after the war, if you're gonna go somewhere, you're gonna go to America. And Hans and the company devise just about the most genius, you know, three putt scheme to get there imaginable. Three putt scheme. Get this.

所以在1945年

So in 1945

永远不会三推。

would never three putt.

泰格·伍兹不会。劳力士品牌见证。是的。好吧。所以1945年，战争刚结束，也是威尔斯多夫和戴维斯公司成立四十周年，公司的红宝石庆典。

Tiger Woods wouldn't. Rolex brand testimony. Yep. Okay. So 1945, right after the war ends, is also the fortieth anniversary of the founding of Willsdorf and Davis, the Ruby Jubilee of the company.

为了这个场合，劳力士推出了他们迄今为止最精美的型号，Datejust。这是第一款现代劳力士，至今仍是公司销售的标志性手表。是的。它太美了。我面前就有一块。

For the occasion, Rolex launches their finest model yet, the Datejust. And this is the first modern Rolex, still an iconic watch sold by the company today. Yep. It's just beautiful. I've got one here in front of me.

对很多人来说，如果听到劳力士时想到的不是Submariner，那就是Datejust。

For a lot of people, if they don't picture a Submariner, when you hear Rolex, they picture a Datejust.

或者是Daytona，但我们稍后会讲到。是的。与Datejust一同推出的是Jubilee表链，就是我们现在都知道的标志性珠状劳力士表链。他们将其命名为Jubilee Hans。记住，他想进入美国市场。

Or a Daytona, but we'll get to that. Yep. And launched alongside the Datejust is the Jubilee bracelet, which is the, you know, iconic beaded Rolex bracelet we all know now. They name it the Jubilee Hans. Remember, he wants to get into the American market.

他最初想叫它胜利表链，但他的瑞士同事说，那不太瑞士。我们是中立的。所以它就成了Jubilee表链。

He initially wanted to call it the victory bracelet, but, his Swiss colleagues were like, that's not very Swiss. We are neutral. So it becomes the Jubilee bracelet.

漂亮极了。与凹槽表圈搭配得天衣无缝，为腕间增添了几分炫目风采。

Beautiful. It goes great with a fluted bezel. It just adds a little more pizzazz to the wrist.

就在同一时期，劳力士生产出第五万枚官方认证的瑞士天文台精密时计——巧的是这款正是新款Datejust。于是汉斯决定将这枚极具特殊意义的劳力士赠予带领瑞士度过战争的亨利·吉桑将军。这位瑞士民族英雄，堪称瑞士的德怀特·艾森豪威尔。

Right around the same time, Rolex manufactures their fifty thousandth officially certified Swiss chronometer. It just happens, of course, that that model is the new Datejust. So Hans decides that he is going to give this very special Rolex watch to the Swiss general Henri Guissant who led Switzerland through the war. National hero in Switzerland. The Dwight Eisenhower of Switzerland, one might say.

带领瑞士度过战争到底是什么概念？

What does that even look like to lead Switzerland through the war?

问得好。

That's a good question. A

大概就是成天坐着吧。

lot of sitting.

别忘了这只是三推中的第一推。吉桑欣然接受了这枚珍贵腕表。此时劳力士正全力扩大生产，短短数月后，他们又认证了第十万枚天文台时计。

Well, remember, this is a three putt. This is just the first putt here. So Guisson gladly accepts this great watch. Well, Rolex is really ramping production here now. So it turns out, you know, a few months later, they make their hundred thousandth chronometer that they have certified here.

这枚送给了温斯顿·丘吉尔。

This one goes to Winston Churchill.

汉斯将这枚表交给新晋劳力士拥趸吉桑将军，请他转赠给挚友丘吉尔爵士。丘吉尔欣然接受，从此成为劳力士佩戴者。不到一年后，劳力士第十五万枚认证天文台时计再度诞生于新款旗舰Datejust系列。

This one, Hans, goes to general Gouissant, you know, newly christened Rolex convert and says, would you please, on our behalf, offer this to your dear friend, sir Winston Churchill? There it is. Winston Churchill accepts. Now Winston Churchill is a Rolex man. Well, less than a year later, Rolex makes their 150,000 officially certified chronometer once again in the now, you know, new top of the line Datejust model.

这次汉斯找上了谁？虽非直接赠予，但受好友丘吉尔佩戴的影响，这枚表最终赠予盟军统帅、美国英雄德怀特·艾森豪威尔将军。艾森豪威尔心想：老友丘吉尔都戴劳力士，我岂能拒绝？于是他也成了劳力士男人。

And who does Hans go to for this one? Through not directly, but with some influence of the fact that his friend sir Winston Churchill wore it, he goes to general Dwight D. Eisenhower, American hero, leader of the allied forces, architect of the allied victory in this new world order. And Eisenhower, because his good friend Churchill wears Rolexes, how could I not accept? And so now Dwight Eisenhower becomes a Rolex man.

短短数年后，1952年，艾森豪威尔就任美国总统，那枚标志性的黄金劳力士Datejust几乎时刻不离他的手腕。

And then a few short years later in 1952, Eisenhower becomes president of The United States Of America with his iconic gold Rolex Datejust on his wrist at almost all times.

是的。这是劳力士首次明确其未来所有营销与定位的核心概念——掌控世界的人佩戴劳力士。

Yes. And this is the very first time that Rolex kinda gets the idea of what all of their future marketing and positioning will be, which is those who command the world wear Rolex.

于是此时，劳力士终于引入了第三方广告代理商——纽约的智威汤逊广告公司。在艾森豪威尔佩戴Datejust就任总统后，劳力士与智威汤逊合作在美国发起了一场几乎如你所说的宣传，本。广告标语正是'掌控世界命运的人佩戴劳力士手表'。

So at this time, Rolex finally brings on a third party advertising agency, the J Walter Thompson advertising agency in New York. Rolex and J Walter Thompson, in collaboration after Eisenhower becomes president wearing his Datejust, launched a campaign in The US, almost literally what you said, Ben. The tagline of the campaign is men who guide the destinies of the world wear Rolex watches.

他们印了这个。

They printed this.

没错。就是

Yes. That is

在广告上。

on the advertisement.

铺满了全美各大杂志，可能全球也是。难以置信。

All over magazines across America, and maybe the world too. I don't know. It's incredible.

'掌控世界命运的人佩戴劳力士手表'。真敢说。太不要脸了。

Men who guide the destinies of the world wear Rolex watches. Shameless. Shameless.

槽点太多了。比如放在今天，肯定会说'人们'而不是'男人'。但这话字面上也没错——艾森豪威尔、丘吉尔...

So many things to say. Like, obviously, today, that would be, you know, people, not men. But it's also literally true. You know, you got Eisenhower. You got Churchill.

还有卡斯特罗，全都戴着劳力士。

You got Castro Totally. Wearing Rolexes.

六七十年代他们有些广告企划我留着后面说，但有几句类似这样的标语必须提一下。比如'当男人掌握世界时，你必然在他腕间发现劳力士'。

I'm gonna save for later in the sixties and seventies some of their advertising campaigns, but there are a few sentences that we just have to say do show up that is along these lines. There's one that is when a man has the world in his hands, you expect to find a Rolex on his wrist.

所以这就是唐·德雷珀。这比唐·德雷珀还要出色。

So this is Don Draper. This is better than Don Draper.

劳力士永远不会改变世界。我们把这件事留给佩戴它们的人。哦，我是说我们可以

A Rolex will never change the world. We leave that to the people who wear them. Oh, I mean We could

就在这里结束这一集吧。

just end the episode here.

这才是真正的品牌定位。

Now that is brand positioning.

那是真正的品牌定位。而且他们成功让美国总统戴上了一块，这简直太

That is true brand positioning. And the fact that they engineered getting one on the wrist of the president of The United States is so

天才了。有趣的是，尽管他们最初以梅赛德斯·格莱茨为起点，强调人类成就和领域巅峰的理念，但在这个时代他们并没有延续这一点。现在关注的是那些掌控世界的人。后来他们又回归到成就和科学家身上。再次强调，我会留到六七十年代再谈，但这非常明确地定位了那些掌控世界的人。

genius. And interestingly, even though they started with Mercedes Gleits, this idea of, like, human achievement and accomplishment and the top of their field, they aren't doing that in this era. It is about the people who command the world. And they later on come back to achievement and the people who are scientists. And, again, I'll save it for the sixties and seventies, but this is a very clear positioning of those who command the world.

没错。没错。现在的问题是，我想，虽然‘掌控世界的人’这个概念本身非常霸气，但归根结底，你面对的是一个很小的市场。虽然作为理想目标很美好，你知道，有助于提升品牌光环等等，但更多人，尤其是进入五六十年代后，更想成为阿诺德·帕尔默，而不是德怀特·艾森豪威尔。

Yep. Yep. Now the problem, I guess, with those who command the world as as just absolutely gangster as it is, is ultimately, you're talking about a small market. Now it's great aspirational. You know, it helps the brand Halo and whatnot, but more people, especially as we enter the fifties and sixties, wanna be Arnold Palmer, shall we say, than, wanna be Dwight Eisenhower.

是的。关于日志型最后一点我很喜欢的产品细节。最初的日志型有个日期窗口。它之所以叫日志型，是因为它是一款普通手表，表盘上有个小窗口显示当月的日期数字。

Yeah. One final little product sidebar on the Datejust that I just love. The original Datejust had the date window. It's called the Datejust because it's a regular watch with a little window on the dial that has the number of the date of the month in there.

取代了数字三的位置。而且，你知道，如果你现在想象一块日志型，你可能会想到那个放在

In place of the three. And, you know, if you're picturing one today, you probably picture that magnifier that's sitting on

放大镜，劳力士营销中的‘独眼巨人’。当然。当然。关于这个设计的传说来自汉斯的第二任妻子贝蒂·威尔斯多夫·梅特勒。他的第一任妻子安娜在1944年二战结束前不幸去世。

the The magnifier, the Cyclops eye in Rolex marketing scene. Of course. Of course. So the legend of how that came about is Hans' second wife, Betty Willsdorf Metler. His first wife, Anna, died tragically in 1944 right before the end of World War two.

那正是汉斯创立汉斯·威尔斯多夫基金会并将公司所有权全部转入其中的时刻。

And that is actually when Hans sets up the Hans Willsdorf foundation and puts all of his ownership of the company into it.

众所周知，他没有任何家族继承人。无人可继承公司，因此他创建了这个基金会。

Famously, he never had any family heirs. There was no one to pass the company to, so he creates this foundation.

是的。他的第二任妻子贝蒂非常喜爱Datejust腕表。直至今日，我认为Lady Datejust仍是劳力士产品目录中最畅销的单一表款。

Yes. So his second wife, Betty, loved the Datejust. And still to this day, the Lady Datejust, I believe, is the single best selling model in the Rolex catalog.

嗯，他们大概有八款男表和一款女表。当然那款女表很出色。50%的销量来自女性消费者。而且女性也会戴潜航者这类表款，但说真的...确实如此。

Well, yeah, they have, like, eight watches for men and one for women. Of course, that one's good. 50% are bought by women. And, you know, women wear submariners and stuff too, but, like, come on. Yeah.

你们把50%的销量都集中在所谓的'一款'表型上。

You're concentrating 50% of your sales into one, quote, unquote, model.

没错。贝蒂虽然喜欢Datejust，但难以看清小窗口里的日期数字。嗯。据说有天早晨汉斯在浴室准备时，他戴着Datejust腕表，一滴水珠恰好落在日期窗上方，放大了日期显示...

Yes. So Betty loved the Datejust, but had a tough time reading the small numbers of the date in the window. Uh-huh. So as the story goes, one day, while Hans is getting ready in his bathroom in the morning, He's wearing a date dress, and a drop of water drips onto it right above the date window, and it magnifies the date

我敢说这故事是编的，但他们确实编出来了。

I tell can't make this stuff up, but they made this stuff up.

他们编造了这个故事。对。然后他大喊：我明白了！我明白了！

They made this stuff up. Yeah. Yeah. And he shouts, I got it. I got it.

就像浴缸里的尤里卡时刻，这就是Datejust腕表日期放大镜窗口的灵感来源。

It's like the the eureka moment in the bathtub, and that is the inspiration for the Cyclops window of the dates just.

如果劳力士公司有人正在收听并想告诉我们'不，这绝对是真的'，请发送邮件至acquirer@fm联系我们。

If you're at Rolex and you're listening to this and you wanna tell us, no. It really is true. Hello at acquirer dot f m.

我们很乐意来日内瓦与您详谈此事。是的。好的。那么，本，正如你刚才提到的，Datejust。这是一款正装表。

We will happily come to Geneva and talk to you about it. Yes. Okay. So, Ben, as you were saying though, the Datejust. It's a dress watch.

这是当你掌控世界、身着西装、置身于体面人士之间时会佩戴的手表。没错。但劳力士从1950年代起所做的就是——当然我们继续生产正装表——但我们更想打造一款既能陪你进行极限运动，又能在之后晚宴上光彩夺目的腕表。

It's a watch that you wear if you are commanding the world, you're wearing a suit, and you are amongst other respectable people. Yes. But what Rolex kinda does from 1950 onward is, yeah, of course, we make that, but we wanna make a watch that you can wear while you're doing your extreme activity that's gonna look great when you show up to dinner afterwards too.

是的。这正是品牌在五十年代由安德烈奠定的核心定位。运动表。是潜水艇（Submariner）这样的运动表。

Yep. And that is the core of the brand today, which gets built in the nineteen fifties under Andre? Sports watches. It's sports watches. It's the Submariner.

是探险家（Explorer），是格林尼治（GMT Master），是迪通拿（Daytona）——这些现代运动表。就像你说的，这些与丘吉尔、艾森豪威尔佩戴的款式截然不同。没错。

It's the Explorer. It's the GMT Master. It's the Daytona, the modern sport watches. And like you said, these are very different than what Churchill and Eisenhower are wearing. Yep.

安德烈·海尼格（Andrei Heineker），汉斯之后的第二任劳力士CEO。他于1948年战后加入公司，我记得他原本是律师出身。他先被派往南美开拓市场，后回到日内瓦总部担任营销总监，正是他引进了智威汤逊广告公司（Jay Walter Thompson）。

So Andrei Heineker, the second CEO of Rolex after Hans. Andrei joined the company in 1948 right after the war, and he was a former lawyer, I believe, by training. And he first goes to South America and runs the South American market for Rolex. And then he comes back to headquarters in Geneva, and he becomes the director of marketing. So he's the one who brings on Jay Walter Thompson.

他发起了'世界命运'营销战役，并在1955年转任腕表总监。通过引入智威汤逊、革新营销策略、重点开拓美国市场，这些都在他的职权范围内。后来他还与马克·麦考马克（Mark McCormick）的IMG经纪公司合作，这个我们稍后讲代言时会提到。

He's the one who does the destinies of the world campaign. And then in 1955, I believe he becomes the director of watches. And so bringing on Jay Walter Thompson, revamping the marketing message, opening up the America's market, and really The US market, that's sort of his purview here. And then later on, he starts working with Mark McCormick and IMG, which is the talent agency that we'll get into for the testimonies. Oh.

安德烈意识到，在五十年代乃至即将到来的六十年代，劳力士三十年代赖以立足的精密制表技术已不再具有排他性。你提到欧米茄，但实际上任何瑞士厂商此时都能制造出与劳力士媲美的腕表。

What Andre realizes is that now here in the fifties and into the sixties ahead, all the technology and engineering and innovation that went into Rolex in the thirties to perfect the product of the wristwatch, that's no longer defensible. You mentioned Omega, but basically anybody else, certainly any other Swiss company, can make a perfectly on parody watch to what Rolex can make at this point in time.

当时有30家瑞士公司能做到。特别是由于Etablissage（分散制造）体系，所有零部件都由外部供应商生产。你完全可以四处采购组件自己组装。劳力士稍有不同是因为他们拥有Aigler机芯厂。

There's 30 Swiss companies doing this. Yeah. Especially because of the Etablissage, all of the component manufacturers are outside the brand. And so you just go around all the component manufacturers. And Rolex is a little different because they have Aigler.

但大体上，你可以找遍那些制造各种微型零件的小作坊，买齐配件组装成表。

But in general, you can go around to find all the different tiny little shops that are making each of these components and buy it, make a watch.

完全正确。所以汉斯时代的那些技术优势在新时期已不足以形成差异化。劳力士需要超越产品本身，转向'佩戴它代表什么身份'的品牌内涵，这是迈向奢侈品牌的第一步——虽然我不确定安德烈他们当时是否明确意识到这一点。

Totally. So all the stuff that Hans was a genius at kinda isn't gonna cut it in terms of differentiation for this new era. What Rolex now needs to do is move beyond what the actual product is on your wrist to more, what does it say about you that you're wearing it, to the brand of the company itself, what a signaling is, what it means about you. This is the first step towards becoming a luxury brand. And I don't know that Andre and they were thinking about it necessarily

虽然还未真正达到奢侈的层次，此刻它更偏向于生活方式。

as luxury yet, and it's not really luxury yet. It's much more lifestyle at this

这个阶段。后来它确实成为了奢侈品牌，但这正是他真正的天才之处。从1953年到1955年，劳力士——汉斯仍在掌管公司（他于1960年去世）——与安德烈共同推出了一系列大胆创新的表款，与我们之前讨论的Datejust和Oyster Perpetual截然不同。

point in time. It would later become don't luxury, but this is his real, real genius. So from 1953 to 1955, Rolex and again, Hans is still running the company. He dies in 1960. But Rolex, Hans, Andre launch a whole suite of wild new models, very different than the Datejust and the Oyster Perpetuals that we were talking about before.

这些表款包括探险家型、Turnograph、潜航者型、Milgauss以及GMT-Master。它们最初被称为工具表——没错。但很快就被归类为运动表。

This is the Explorer, the Turnograph, the Submariner, the Milgauss, and the GMT Master. These are what are then initially called the tool watches Yep. But quickly morph into becoming known as the sport watches.

是的。业界通常称它们为运动表或工具表。劳力士则称之为专业表，这有点讽刺——你会以为专业表是像Datejust那样的正装表，但他们将其定位为专业赛车手这类职业人士的装备。这就是他们的

Yeah. The industry kind of refers to them as sport watches or tool watches. Rolex calls them professional watches, which is kinda funny because it's like the opposite of what you oh, a professional watch, you would think is like the Datejust, but they're thinking about it as more of like a professional driver, a professional race car driver. So that's their

对，专业飞行员的装备。

Yeah. A professional pilot.

没错。在劳力士的宇宙里，你会持续看到这种思维：我们拒绝被归入任何既定类别，因此必须创造完全不同的概念来避免被定义。比如不做运动表，而是做专业表。就像所谓的'劳力士之道'。

Yes. You'll continue to see this in everything that is in the Rolex universe is we don't want to be lumped into any sort of a category, so we have to refer to something entirely different such that we can't be put into a box. Like, don't make sport watches. They make professional watches. In the same way that there's something called the Rolex Way.

哦，你是说就像Vision Pro不宣称自己是...

Oh, you mean, like, the Vision Pro is not

正是如此。现实？劳力士之道在他们发布的YouTube视频里，通篇都在列举自己不是什么。比如不说'无限'因为那反而显得局限。劳力士宇宙里的一切都必须用你根本无法定义的方式来描述。

Exactly. Reality? Like, the Rolex Way, there's this YouTube video they put out describing the Rolex Way, and they just list all the things that they're not. It's not limitless because that's too limiting. Everything in the Rolex universe needs to be described in a way that it's too impossible for you to describe.

它就是纯粹的劳力士。

It's just simply Rolex.

绝妙，太绝妙了。好了，让我们回到这批真正改变世界的工具表——或者说

Amazing. Amazing. Okay. So back to this suite of really world changing tool watches or

至少看看那些改变世界的专业工具表，大卫。专业手表，我很抱歉。

at least watch world changing tool watches. Professional watches, David. Professional watches. I'm sorry.

首先是Turnograph，这个名字或许已经预示了它的命运，真是个‘绝妙’的名字。

First is the turnograph, as perhaps foreshadowed by that, really great name there.

这名字真糟糕。

What a horrible name.

这是劳力士推出的这些手表中销量最差的一款。如今你在授权经销商那儿可买不到Turnograph了。

That's the least successful of these watches that they launch. You're not gonna be buying any turnographs from authorized Rolex dealers these days.

但是大卫，如果你看看Turnograph，原版长什么样？

But, David, if you look at a turnograph, what's the original one look like?

它看起来像GMT Master，我们稍后再谈这个。Turnograph的关键专业功能是表盘周围的可旋转外圈，用于为不同事件计时。劳力士将其营销为国际商务人士的装备，用于计算越洋电话的通话时长。

Well, it looks like the GMT Master. We'll get back to that in a sec. So the key feature the key professional feature of the Turnograph was it had a rotating bezel around the dial, around the face of the watch that you could use for timing different events. And the way Rolex marketed this as this was going to be for international business people who were making international phone calls and needed to time the length of the phone

哈，真滑稽。完全没打中市场需求。

Yeah. That's funny. Swing and a miss.

彻底失策。这实在算不上什么值得向往的生活方式。

Swing and a miss. Not exactly really a romantic lifestyle you ought to be, associated with.

为了省几个钱——我猜那时候打长途电话一次能省个10美元吧。不过确实。

Saving pennies on your I guess at the time, it was saving, you know, $10 at a time on your long distance calls. But Yeah.

没错。但故事还没完。第二失败的是Milgauss，我超爱这款表。

Sure. But it'll come back. The next least successful one is the Milgauss. I love this watch. I know.

这款表太棒了。它拥有完整的第二生命。没错。它是与瑞士CERN的工程师们合作设计的，就是那个粒子加速器实验室，专为暴露在强磁场环境中工作的科学家打造。理念在于这款Milgauss对磁场的防护如此出色，即便身处这类环境也能保持精准走时。

This one is awesome. This has a whole second life. Yes. It was designed in association with the engineers at CERN in Switzerland, the particle accelerator, for scientists who are working while exposed to strong magnetic fields. And the idea was that this Milgauss was so well protected from magnetic fields that you could wear it in these environments, and it would still tell accurate time.

你肯定明白这为什么重要。如果手表依靠金属游丝作为核心计时部件，当你走进科学家工作的那些强磁场区域时，手表走时就会变快或变慢。

Which you can understand why this would be a big deal. If you have a metallic hairspring that is the primary thing making your watch tick, you walk into some of these environments that scientists are operating in, and, yeah, your watch is gonna speed up or slow down.

没错。比起为国际商务通话计时这种设计初衷，这个灵感来源确实更浪漫些——虽然科学家或立志在强磁场领域工作的人群市场不大。所以几年后他们就停产了，但2007年2月又让它重出江湖。太酷了，表盘上还有闪电造型的秒针呢。

Yep. So a little more romantic than, timing international business calls in terms of the inspiration for this, but not a large market for people who are scientists or, you know, aspiring to work in strong magnetic field areas. So they discontinued that after a couple years, but then they bring it back in 02/2007. It's awesome. I mean, it's got this, like, lightning bolt secondhand on it.

是啊，设计超酷。配色也很棒，特别是那个活泼的橙色。我一直在纠结选探险家型还是Milgauss，本质上它们是同一款表，但Milgauss有着非常有趣的科学渊源和外观。

Yeah. It's so cool. And the colors are great. It's got this really fun orange. I've been contemplating whether I wanna get an Explorer or a Milgauss, and, you know, it's effectively the same watch, but the Milgauss sorta has this very fun scientific origin and look to it.

确实。你戴哪款都会很合适。

Right. Oh, I could totally see you rocking either one.

就是很符合我的气质对吧？

It just feels me, doesn't it?

没错。你绝对有探险家精神。你热爱探索，喜欢背包旅行，还拍过那张标志性的照片。

Yeah. It does. You definitely have got the explorer. You know, you love exploring, you know, backpacking. You know, you've got that great iconic picture.

那张和你父亲的合影现在还挂在...

Is that still is that picture of you and your dad still up in

哦对，就在我私人工作室的墙上。是的，那是我们背包旅行时拍的。

Oh, yeah. Behind me in my own studio. Yeah. Yep. That's Backpacking.

冰岛。

Iceland.

是的。但我觉得

Yep. But I feel like

Milgauss可能更适合你。我知道。两款都是很棒的手表。

the Milgauss might be more you. I know. Both great watches.

哦，两款都很棒。好的。这是第二款。然后第一款真正重要的，就是你说的Explorer，本。

Oh, both great watches. Okay. That's number two. And then the first really big one, the Explorer, Ben, like you were talking about.

这款表背后的故事简直太棒了。

Which the story is so awesome for this.

太棒了。据说，它是为了纪念埃德蒙·希拉里爵士和丹增·诺尔盖首次登顶珠穆朗玛峰而制作的。

So awesome. So supposedly, it is made in honor of sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay's summit of Mount Everest, the first human summoning of Mount Everest.

是1953年吧？

1953, I think?

我记得是1953年。是的。

I believe it was 1953. Yes.

他们当时戴的Oyster Perpetual某种程度上就是Explorer的原型。

And they wore an Oyster Perpetual up that was sort of a prototype of what the Explorer would be.

没错。所有这些工具表——抱歉，专业表款。它们都是与那些亲身实践这种生活方式的人合作开发的原型。是的，为了纪念这些人类壮举。

Yep. All of these tool watches here sorry. Professional watches. All of them, they prototyped in partnership with various people who were living these lifestyles Yep. Doing these human achievements.

传说埃德蒙·希拉里爵士和丹增·诺尔盖当时与劳力士合作，佩戴劳力士登顶珠峰。

Now the legend is that sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay were working with Rolex, wearing Rolexes, summiting Everest wearing Rolexes.

而这正是当今营销的核心。这就是如今围绕品牌的故事。

And that is in the marketing today. That is the lore around the brand today.

重要的是，两人后来都成为了劳力士的官方代言人、品牌大使和合作伙伴。没错。所以他们将用余生告诉你他们有多爱劳力士。

And importantly, both of them become official Rolex testimonies, brand ambassadors, partners afterwards. Yep. So they will, for the rest of their lives, tell you how much they love Rolex.

然而，埃德蒙·希拉里爵士并不偏爱他的劳力士。他更喜欢佩戴一款史密斯的腕表。

However, sir Edmund Hillary did not prefer his Rolex. He had a Smith's watch that he preferred to wear.

我想史密斯是那次探险的官方装备商。好吧。而劳力士不是。

And I think the Smith's was the official outfitter of the expedition. Okay. And Rolex was not.

所以我确实相信两款表最终都登上了峰顶。无论它们是戴在手腕上还是放在背包里，这很可能就是事实。但有趣的是，与劳力士紧密关联的正是那次珠峰登顶的传奇。他们当时确实参与了，算是有所涉足。

So I do believe both watches ended up on the summit. I think that it's likely, whether it was on wrists or in backpacks or what the deal is, but it's just funny that there's super tightly associated with Rolex is that summoning of Everest. And, like, they were interested. It was sort of there.

没错。而探险家型腕表的设计初衷就是承受极端气压变化，即便登上珠峰顶峰也能精准运作。天啊，想象一下另一个计时至关重要、关乎生死的现代壮举。攀登珠峰时你必须依赖自己的腕表。

Yep. But the Explorer designed for withstanding extreme pressure changes, being able to go up to the summit of Everest and still work fine. Gosh, imagine yet another modern endeavor where timekeeping is critically important and means the difference between life and death. You need to rely on your watch when you're summoning Everest.

这是款非常坚固的腕表。活动部件不多，没有复杂功能，也没有旋转表盘。

It's a really robust watch. There's not a lot of moving parts. There's not a lot of complications. There's not a spinning dial.

在恶劣环境中依然清晰易读。

Easily readable in the elements.

正是如此。

Exactly.

没错。这就是探险家型腕表，它后来成为标志性表款，至今仍极受欢迎。然后是潜航者型，可以说它有着同样有趣的起源神话故事。

Yep. So that's the Explorer. It goes on to become iconic, extremely popular still to this day. Then there's the Submariner, an equally fun origin myth story, shall we say.

如果将潜航者系列从劳力士中独立出来，潜航者本身可能更具影响力。它已自成一套完整的品牌体系。绝对如此。这就像如果把达拉斯牛仔队从NFL中分离出来——谁更重要？如果你打算购买劳力士并拥有多款，潜航者应该是首选，因为它实在太具标志性了。

If you separated Submariner from Rolex, Submariner may actually be a bigger deal. Submariner is its own whole franchise. Absolutely. Almost in the way that's like, what if you separated the Dallas cowboys from the NFL? Who's the more important like, the sub is if you're gonna get a Rolex and you're intending to have multiple, you kinda should start with the sub because it's just so iconic.

你说得对。它确实自成一个世界。

You're right. It is really its own world.

早在肖恩·康纳利开始扮演詹姆斯·邦德之前，这就是他的腕表，后来他在电影中也佩戴了它。

It was Sean Connery's watch even before he started playing James Bond, and then he wore it in yeah.

好了好了，我们进入正题吧。

Alright. Alright. Alright. Alright. Let's get into it.

潜航者系列是劳力士的专业潜水腕表。正如我们讨论过的，它并非劳力士制作的第一款潜水表，那应该是沛纳海。

So the Submariner is the Rolex dive watch, the professional diving watch. As we talked about, not the first dive watch that Rolex made. That would be the Panerai.

但人们熟知的并非这点。众所周知的是，潜航者是劳力士制造的顶级潜水表，并定义了这一品类。

But that's not what you know. What you know is the Sub is a great dive watch that Rolex makes and defines the category.

没错。它能防水深达100米。虽然购买者中没多少人会潜到100米深处，但性能就是如此。

Yes. Works and is waterproof down to a 100 meters in-depth. Not a lot of people who are buying these things are going down to a 100 meters, but here we go.

不过必须指出，这个品类的这一点常被忽视。所谓100米深度是在无压力变化且手臂静止时的数据。拥有100米防水性能的意义在于：当你在20米深活动时，若突然挥动手臂或遭遇水下突发状况，瞬时压力可能逼近极限值——尽管你实际远未达到100米深度。

Although I must say, I think this is an overlooked thing about this category. That's a 100 meters in-depth if there were no pressure changes and you weren't whipping your hand around. It's nice to have a 100 meters of depth so that if you're going 20 meters in-depth and things happen, you might, at some given second, while you're whipping your arm around or something weird happens underwater, approach the limit even though you're actually far from a 100 meters below.

正因如此，我记得劳力士后来开始将腕表测试至远高于标称深度的水平。

And to that point, I believe at some point, Rolex starts actually testing their watches to significantly greater depth than what is advertised for this reason.

没错。多数表款会有10%的安全余量，但潜水表的安全余量应该达到25%。

That's correct. Most of them, I think, are a 10% extra margin of safety, but I think the dive watches are an extra 25%.

没错。你肯定不想这样：哦，我有块300米防水表，下潜到300米就以为万事大吉，结果实际到了305米就出问题。

Yeah. You don't wanna be like, oh, I've got a 300 meter depth watch and, get down to 300 meters and think you're good, but actually go to three zero five.

是啊。要知道100米防水表对游泳池游泳来说就很不错了，而10米防水表我总觉得不太靠谱，感觉有风险。

Yep. You know, a 100 meter waterproof watch is nice even just for going in swimming pools, and I'm not sure I would want a 10 meter waterproof watch. It feels dangerous.

对。但这其实不完全是防水性能的问题。大约在1952、1953年，大众文化的焦点都集中在法国人雅克·库斯托身上——这个名字你们很多人应该耳熟。他是第一位举世闻名的海底探险家。

Yep. But it's not really about the waterproofness. So around this time, 1952, 1953, much of popular culture is focused on a Frenchman named Jacques Cousteau. Probably, rings a bell to many of you. And Jacques Cousteau was the first world famous undersea explorer.

水肺潜水装备其实是他发明的。

He actually invented scuba diving.

哦，有意思。

Oh, interesting.

没错。他是个不折不扣的全才型天才。1953年他在地中海拍摄纪录片《寂静的世界》，后来这部片子获得了1956年奥斯卡最佳纪录片奖。全世界都通过镜头跟随雅克首次探索这片海底异世界，而他正是戴着劳力士手表完成这些壮举的。

Yep. He was a total Renaissance man genius. And in 1953, he's filming the documentary, the silent world in the Mediterranean Sea that is gonna go on to win the Oscar, the Academy Award for best documentary, I think, in 1956. But the whole world is watching these exploits, you know, discovering the depths of the ocean, this whole alien world for the first time along with Jacques. And he's doing so and going down in these machines while wearing Rolex watches.

太棒了。不过有趣的是，雅克和劳力士并没有正式合作关系。实际上劳力士当时正式合作的是另一位没那么出名的海底探险家。但雅克确实是劳力士拥趸，他和团队在执行任务时都佩戴劳力士。

Great. So great. Now, interestingly, there's not an actual formal relationship between Jacques and Rolex. And, actually, Rolex was formally working with another undersea explorer who, didn't become nearly as famous. But nonetheless, Jacques was a Rolex fan, was wearing Rolexes while doing all this as was much of his crew.

后来电影上映时，镜头里他们清一色都戴着劳力士。

And then when the movie comes out, they're all wearing these Rolexes.

需要提醒现在的水肺潜水爱好者：如今你们都有潜水电脑表了。我记得考PADI证时，哪怕最初几次潜水用的也是潜水电脑表而非潜水腕表。但在那个年代，这确实是必备工具——虽然不能像现代潜水电脑那样精确显示深度，但能计算你的总停留时间...

And it's important to remember for people who scuba dive out there, you have a dive computer these days. I mean, even I remember when I got PADI certified, even your very first few dives, you're you're not wearing a dive watch. You're using a dive computer. At this time, this was a legitimate tool that you needed. It's not gonna tell you your depth the way that a dive computer is, but in order to know your total bottom time and

就像攀登珠峰时你需要登山表一样——其实潜水时更需要潜水表，比登珠峰时还要依赖。

In the same way if you're summoning Everest, Well, even more so than if you're summoning Everest, you really need a submariner, a dive watch if you're diving.

这可不只是可爱。这是完成这项极限任务的必备工具。

This isn't cute. This is an essential tool to complete this extreme task.

没错。所以你看，这对这里的营销非常有利。但到了1962年，第一部

Yes. So, you know, that's great for marketing here. But then 1962, the very first

《诺博士》。

Doctor. No.

詹姆斯·邦德电影《诺博士》上映了。

James Bond movie, Doctor. No, comes out.

正如伊恩·弗莱明的詹姆斯·邦德系列小说中所写的那样。

And as it is written in Ian Fleming's James Bond books.

是的。因为伊恩·弗莱明本人就是劳力士的拥趸。自然，詹姆斯·邦德也佩戴劳力士。根据正史记载——我是在做研究时才发现的——你知道吗？至少按照伊恩·弗莱明的设定，邦德的母亲是瑞士人，父亲是英国人。某种程度上就像劳力士本身的渊源一样。

Yes. Because, of course, Ian Fleming himself was a Rolex man. Of course, James Bond wears Rolexes. Now canonically, I didn't know this till doing the research, did you know that at least according to Ian Fleming canon, James Bond's mother is Swiss and his father is British? Kind of like you might say Rolex itself is.

哦，有意思。

Oh, interesting.

所以肖恩·康纳利在《诺博士》中佩戴了潜航者系列。据我所知，康纳利在他所有的邦德电影中都戴这款表。而本，就像你说的，现实生活中也是个潜航者系列的忠实用户。

So Sean Connery wears a Submariner in doctor No. And then Connery, I believe, would wear subs for all of his Bond movies. And Ben, like you said, was in real life a sub guy himself.

我想是的。

I think that's right.

没有比这更大的...你知道，如果你想打造一个生活方式品牌，作为现代世界最早的生活方式品牌之一，没有比这更好的选择了。

There is no bigger. You know, if you're trying to build a lifestyle brand, one of the first lifestyle brands in the modern world, like, there's nothing better that you could do.

这一情况从1962年持续到了1995年。

And this persisted from 1962 until 1995.

没错。还配着金色表盘。

Yes. With golden eye.

是的。当皮尔斯·布鲁斯南接任时，他们想重塑邦德的品牌形象，于是选择了欧米茄。

Yeah. When Pierce Brosnan came in, they wanted to refresh Bond's brand image, and they chose Omega for that one.

哇哦。你们邦德系列可真是慷慨大方啊。

Oh, wow. Well, that's really charitable of you too, the Bond franchise there.

不。事实如此。

No. It is.

得了吧。欧米茄可是付了一大笔钱做产品植入的。

No. Come on. Omega paid them a boatload of money for product placement.

他们后来确实付了，但最初并不是付费植入。

They did eventually, but initially, it was not a paid placement.

真的吗？嗯哼。我几乎可以肯定95年时他们就开始竞标这些合作了。

Really? Uh-huh. I was almost certain that '95 was when they decided to bid out all the stuff.

这么说吧。如果要竞标，劳力士会拒绝参与，因为他们从不做付费产品植入。

Well, let's put it this way. If it was bid out, Rolex would decline to bid because Rolex does not engage in paid product placement.

我以为只有这样才能让邦德不戴劳力士。我是说，或许可以说你想围绕皮尔斯·布鲁斯南重启这个系列，而他更像欧米茄的受众而非劳力士的。

Well, that's I assumed the only way that Bond would stop wearing Rolex. I mean, I guess maybe you could make an argument that you're trying to reboot the franchise around Pierce Brosnan. Pierce Brosnan maybe is more of an Omega guy than a Rolex guy.

他们用了些奇怪的宣传语，试图以更具欧洲现代风情的风格重启这个角色

There's some weird line that they used around trying to reboot him with more of a European modern flare

之类的。得了吧，不可能。我才不信。他们居然真这么投标了。

or something. Come on. No way. I don't believe it. They freaking bid it out.

詹姆斯·邦德怎么可能不是劳力士的忠实用户。

There's no way that James Bond is not a Rolex guy.

当然，最终欧米茄向詹姆斯·邦德系列支付了巨额赞助费，以至于每五年邦德电影上映时，欧米茄销量都会激增——非常可观的增长。

And certainly, eventually, Omega is paying a boatload of money to the James Bond franchise, so much so that there's a bump in Omega sales every five years when a Bond movie comes out. A huge bump.

《黄金眼》上映时宝马推出了Z3轿跑车对吧？所以《黄金眼》根本就是植入广告大本营。

Golden eye was when BMW launched the z three coupe. Right? So, yeah, Gold Eye was totally product placement central.

而现在邦德电影，你知道的，整个制作预算基本全靠植入广告覆盖。

And now Bond movies are, like, you know, the whole budget's covered by product placement.

这些电影存在的意义就是植入广告。

They only exist for product placement. I

不确定。我在watchesofespionage.com上看到有资料显示，当时服装设计师主动联系欧米茄，免费获得了一块海马表，我记得甚至还有原话引用——1995年根本没有任何植入广告的商业动机。是我去找他们的，当然他们有兴趣，但最多就是协助我们。他们免费提供了手表。

don't know. One of the sources I found on watchesofespionage.com details apparently, the costume designer reached out to Omega and was given for free a Seamaster, and there's a I think even a quote. There was no product placement incentive in 1995 whatsoever. I went to them, and, of course, they were interested, but it was no more than helping us. They gave us watches for nothing.

这后来确实演变成了'开卡车来运钱'级别的商业合作，但欧米茄粉丝会坚持最初这是自然发生的。

It definitely turned into a back up the truck boatload of money thing, but the Omega fans will insist that it was a organic thing at first.

好吧，也许是这样。总之重点是1962到1995年间，如果你喜欢詹姆斯·邦德并想在生活里带点邦德元素，你就会想戴块潜航者腕表。

Okay. Maybe that's right. Anyway, the point is from 1962 until 1995, if you like James Bond and you wanted to have a little bit of James Bond in your life too, then you wanted to wear a Submariner on your wrist.

没错，简直完美。詹姆斯·邦德经常潜水，他从和邦女郎一起拆除海底炸弹，到浮出水面后直接参加高级晚宴，全程都戴着同一块手表。

Yep. It's perfect. James Bond does a lot of diving, and then he goes right from, you know, diffusing the undersea bomb with the Bond girl to then popping up and going to this high class dinner afterwards. He's all wearing the same watch the entire time.

完美至极，确实如此。这是潜航者系列一个有趣的小尾声。几年后的1967年，你知道海使型的故事吗？我相信这款表至今仍在劳力士产品线中。

It's perfect. It's perfect. It is. Super fun little coda on the Submariner. A few years later in 1967, do you know the story of the sea dweller, which I believe is still in the Rolex lineup to this day?

是的。这就是那个超级潜水表吧？类似潜航者，但能潜得更深？

It is. Is this the one that's like the super sub? That's like a submariner, but you can go real deep?

正是超级潜水表。劳力士与法国海底勘探公司Comex合作开发了这款表。当时潜航者存在氦气渗入手表的问题，是的，上浮时压力会导致手表损坏。

It's the super sub. Yes. So Rolex develops this in partnership with the French undersea exploration company, Comex. And there's this issue where helium would get trapped in the watch in the submariner Yep. And the pressure would break it as you're coming back up.

于是他们研制出海使型，防水深度达600米并配有特殊排氦阀。这太夸张了——除了配发使用的Comex员工外，真正购买的人根本用不上这些功能。但这增添了浪漫色彩，你知道的，这更像是一种生活方式的选择。

And so they developed the Sea Dweller, which is waterproof down to 600 meters and has a special helium release valve. This is ridiculous. No person who is gonna buy these actually is gonna use this stuff except for Comex employees that are being issued them. But it adds to the romance. It adds to the you know, like, this is a lifestyle purchase.

好吧。既然已经从潜航者讲到海使型，那必须说说深海挑战款。这是究极版本。对，没错。

Okay. If you're already taking us from Submariner to Sea Dweller, you gotta take us to deep sea challenge. This is the ultra ultra version. Yeah. Yeah.

好，继续说吧。

Alright. Go for it.

他们开发了这款表，厚重得根本没法戴在手腕上。但基于最初潜航者和海使型的理念，他们创造了这款叫深海型的表。

So they develop a watch. This thing is so thick. You're not putting this on your wrist. But they designed a watch, and they said, well, what if we take this idea of originally the Submariner and then the Sea Dweller, and we make this thing called the deep sea?

在詹姆斯·卡梅隆之前还有更早版本对吧？

And there was an earlier version of this before James Cameron. Right?

是的。卡梅隆那款应该是深海挑战型，属于特别加强版。挑战型能达到11000米，而普通深潜型只有3900米。所以深潜型适用于3900米，挑战型才能真正触及11000米海底。詹姆斯·卡梅隆乘坐载人潜水器时佩戴的正是海使型深海挑战款，我认为这些型号都算该系列。

Yeah. Well, the Cameron one, I believe, is the deep sea challenge, which is a extra extra version. And the challenge is the one that's the 11,000 meter, whereas the regular deep sea is just regular old 3,900 meters. So you get the deep sea for 3,900 meters, the deep sea challenge to really get to the bottom, the 11,000 meter. James Cameron, on a manned submersible, takes the Sea Dweller deep sea challenge, and it actually is, I think, all of those brands.

他们甚至把这个子品牌和母品牌一起，随潜艇下潜到马里亚纳海沟——海洋的最深处。这东西就挂在潜艇外面，因为放里面根本没用。人类要是在外面早被水压碾碎了，但这表在海底最深处依然走时精准、完全防水。太神奇了。当然还有詹姆斯·卡梅隆的证词。

They, like, include the sub brand with the parent brand in this thing, down to the Marianas Trench to the deepest part of the ocean. And this thing is, like, clipped on to the outside of the submarine because it's useless to have it inside. Like, humans would get crushed by this pressure if they were on the outside, but the watch keeps perfect time, keeps all the water out all the way to the deepest part of the ocean. Amazing. And, of course, James Cameron testimony.

没错。当然了。所以这是要潜到海底啊。非常浪漫的生活方式联想，你懂的。

Yes. Of course. Of course. So that's going down to the bottom of the sea. Very romantic lifestyle, you know, association.

话说这些表名全是英文的不觉得有趣吗？所有款式都是英文命名。

By the way, isn't it interesting all these are in English? All these watches have English names.

是啊。目标市场是谁？美国人呗。拜托。

Yeah. What's the market here? It's Americans. Yes. Come on.

那带我们上天吧，大卫。

So take us airborne, David.

好。下潜完该上天了。这就引出了格林尼治大师表。1955年，波音公司基于空军空中加油机设计，推出了707商用喷气式客机。

Yeah. So we've gone down. Now we'll go up. That brings us to the GMT master, the Greenwich Mean Time master. So in 1955, Boeing launched the seven zero seven commercial jet airliner based on a air force air to air refueling tanker design.

这期节目之前我都不知道这事。

I didn't know that until this episode.

我也不知道。

Neither did I.

次年1956年，标志性的美国泛美航空首次用波音707执飞洲际喷气航班，民用航空喷气时代就此开启，随之而来的还有时差问题。嗯。这是个新概念。没错。要知道以前跨大陆旅行速度慢，根本不会有时差反应。

And the next year in 1956, Pan Am, the iconic American airline, begins flying intercontinental jet flights with the Boeing seven zero seven for the first time, and the jet age for the consumer is born, and along with it, jet lag. Mhmm. It's a new concept. Yep. You know, if you traveled across continents before, you didn't move fast enough that you, experienced jet lag.

泛美航空担心时差影响飞行员状态。飞行员要频繁跨越大西洋或太平洋往返飞行。于是他们决定让飞行员始终按出发地时间作息。比如纽约基地的飞行员，就算刚降落在伦敦也得按纽约时间作息。

So Pan Am is worried about the effects of jet lag on its pilots. The pilots are, you know, going back and forth all the time across the Atlantic Ocean or the Pacific Ocean or whatever. And so they decide that the best thing to do is to keep the pilots operating on their home time. So let's say the pilots are based out of New York. They need to operate on New York time even if they've just landed in London.

K. 他们的做法是与劳力士合作，为飞行员开发一款新型专业腕表，这款表首次能同时显示两个不同时区的时间。

K. And the way that they're gonna do that is they're gonna work with Rolex and develop a new professional watch for their pilots that can, for the first time, tell time simultaneously in two different time zones.

太棒了。

Amazing.

于是劳力士将滞销的Turnograph表款——记得吗，就是带旋转表圈的那款——进行改造。

So Rolex takes the failed turnograph, which isn't selling well, but has the rotating bezel, remember.

关键是双向旋转表圈，因为Submariner最初可能不是，但最终变成了单向旋转，这样就不会误操作。

Bidirectional rotating bezel, importantly, because the Submariner is just one. Well, I maybe not at first, but eventually becomes just one so you don't, you know, screw up and do something you don't want to with it.

没错。他们将表圈上的60分钟刻度改为24小时刻度，并在机芯上增加了第四根24小时制的指针。突然间，你就能在一个表盘上同时追踪两个时区——GMT大师表由此诞生。戴上它，你就是时间的主宰者。

Yep. And they change the markings on the bezel from sixty minutes or 60 demarcations that it was on the turnograph to twenty four hours, and then they add in a fourth hand on the movement that moves at a twenty four hour movement. And so all of a sudden, you can now, on one single watch face, keep track of two different time zones, and the GMT master is born. You are the master of time with this watch.

这功能确实非常实用。每次咱俩出差收购时，我都会把Apple Watch右下角的复杂功能设成家乡时间，因为除了当前时区，能随时知道家乡时间真的很方便。

Legitimately, very, very useful. Whenever you and I travel for acquired, I set the complication in the lower right of my Apple Watch to be the home time, because it's just really nice to keep track of home time in addition to where I am right

完全同意。后来他们推出了双色旋转表圈款，最著名的就是红蓝各半的'百事可乐圈'型号。

now. Totally. So that's pretty cool. And eventually, they launch two tone on the rotating bezel, the most famous of which being red on one half and blue on the other half and The Pepsi. The Pepsi model.

没错，超酷的。

Yes. So cool.

他们还推出了各种限量版：'雪碧圈'、'蝙蝠侠'...

They do all these great limited editions. The Sprite. The Batman,

灰黑配色款。

gray and black.

太棒了。这里的社区为各种不同的配色方案起了可爱的昵称。

It's great. The community comes up with little nicknames for all the different color schemes that they do here.

超级、超级有趣。这是关于航空旅行的。但当然，上世纪六七十年代空中浪漫的巅峰不是航空旅行，而是太空旅行。

Super, super fun. Now this is for air travel and jet travel. But, of course, the pinnacle of nineteen sixties and nineteen seventies romance up in the air is not air travel, but space travel.

没错。哦，是的。

Yep. Oh, yes.

这就把我们带到了阿波罗任务。NASA的标准配备是欧米茄超霸表。

Which brings us to the Apollo missions. For which standard issue from NASA is the Omega Speedmaster.

是的。这再次证明了我的观点：在四十年代、五十年代、六十年代，欧米茄是那个大品牌。劳力士当时的目标就是要超越欧米茄，因为欧米茄更大。没错。

Yeah. Which, again, I will say bolsters my case that in this forties, fifties, sixties, Omega was the big brand. Like, Rolex had a target in mind to beat, and that target was Omega who was bigger. Yep.

但尽管欧米茄是阿波罗任务的标准配备，并非所有宇航员都选择佩戴标准表。如果你去劳力士总部，会看到一张阿波罗13号任务签名的珍贵照片——就是汤姆·汉克斯演的那部电影——由宇航员杰克·斯威格特（电影中由凯文·贝肯饰演的角色）签名，赠予我的老朋友蕾妮·杰内尔（当时据信是劳力士公关总监），题词是'感谢你让我永远准时'。所以杰克，可能还有其他一些宇航员，更喜欢GMT大师系列。哦对了，阿波罗任务期间他们戴的就是GMT大师。

But even though Omega was standard issue on the Apollo missions, not all of the Apollo astronauts chose to wear their standard issue watches. So if you go to Rolex headquarters, there is an incredible signed picture from Apollo thirteen. You know, the Apollo thirteen mission, the Tom Hanks movie, signed by astronaut Jack Swiger, a character who's played by Kevin Bacon in the movie, to my longtime friend, Renee Genere, who I believe was Rolex head of communications at the time, who enabled me to always be on time. So Jack, and I think maybe some of the other astronauts too, preferred GMT masters and Oh. Were their GMT masters during the Apollo missions.

有意思。确实。就像你说的，欧米茄超霸著名的'月球表'身份，某种程度上是劳力士'人类巅峰成就者之表'战略的一大瑕疵。但这也是他们巧妙分一杯羹的好方法。

Interesting. Yeah. Because like you said, the, Omega Speedmaster famously is the moon watch. In many ways, it's the big blemish in Rolex's whole strategy of being the brand for people who accomplish the greatest heights in human history. But this is a great little way to slide in and take a little slice of that history too.

没错。而且是宇航员自主选择的，就像肖恩·康纳利那样。

Yep. And by choice, by the astronaut's choice, like Sean Connery.

哦，还有比这更妙的吗？是的，'我才不戴这种次品'。虽然这可能是劳力士版本的历史——据说NASA最初联系的是劳力士，因为他们知道试飞员偏爱GMT大师，但劳力士纽约采购办公室的失误导致最终选了欧米茄。

Oh, what could be better? Yes. Not gonna wear this inferior product. Now I'm sure this is, Rolex's version of history, but supposedly, NASA reached out to Rolex first because they knew that test pilots preferred GMT Masters, but there was a mix up in Rolex's New York purchasing office that led to this mishap of Omega being selected instead.

在欧米茄工作的朋友请联系我们，告诉我们真实版本。反正劳力士不会有人来电，至少让我们听听欧米茄的说法。

You work at Omega, please contact us and tell us what is the real version of this story. Because we know no one at Rolex is gonna call, so let's hear at least Ovega's side of this.

是的。好吧。无论如何，你看，这一切都在构建如此多的传奇、传说、浪漫，以及这里终极的生活方式品牌。正如我之前所说，这确实是安德烈·海宁格的架构之作。我们谈到了与智威汤逊的合作关系，但我还提到了马克·麦考梅克和IMG。

Yes. Okay. So whatever the case, you know, this is all just building so much legend and lore and romance and, you know, the ultimate lifestyle brand here. And like I said earlier, this really is the architecting of Andre Heininger. And we talked about the Jay Walter Thompson relationship, but I had mentioned Mark McCormick and IMG.

从六十年代中期与IMG合作开始，他们真正加速并正式确立了这种见证品牌大使的伙伴关系。

And starting here in the mid sixties with IMG is when they really turbocharged and formalized this testimony brand ambassador partnership relationship.

他们在这里采取双管齐下的策略。这些专业腕表正在推出，但他们也提升了正装表系列。

And they are doing two pronged here. These professional watches are happening, but they've also advanced their sort of dress line.

是的。他们推出了Day Date。

Yes. They've come out with the Day Date.

是的。绰号‘总统表’的那款。

Yes. The president, as it's nicknamed.

总统表。讽刺的是，第一位佩戴劳力士的总统戴的是Datejust，而非Day Date。

The president. It was so ironic that the first president to wear a Rolex wore a Datejust, not a day date.

没错。但后来的总统们都戴Day Date。

Right. But future presidents wore day dates.

是的。不过话说回来，IMG是第一个现代名人代言经纪公司，马克·麦考梅克在1960年创立它时极具远见。他促成了大量名人代言，与劳力士合作，签下了高尔夫界的‘三巨头’——阿诺德·帕尔默、加里·普莱尔，然后是杰克·尼克劳斯。我相信他们整个职业生涯，甚至一生都是劳力士的代言人。

Yes. But, anyway, you know, back to IMG, IMG was the first modern talent celebrity endorsement agency and really visionary of Mark McCormick to have found it in 1960. So he brokered tons of celebrity endorsements, and he works with Rolex, and they sign the big three, quote, unquote, in the golf world. First, Arnold Palmer, then Gary Player, and then Jack Nicklaus. And for their whole careers, I believe probably their whole lives, they are Rolex men.

对。这实际上为从费德勒到泰格·伍兹之后的所有人提供了蓝图。

Yep. And that is effectively the blueprint for everyone from Federer to Tiger Woods forward.

没错。比如高尔夫界，往前看有泰格·伍兹、安妮卡·索伦斯坦，现在有斯科蒂·舍夫勒、乔丹·斯皮思、贾斯汀·托马斯、布鲁克·亨德森、高宝璟。虽然不是所有人，但顶尖选手中很大比例都是劳力士的代言人。

Yeah. So Justin Golf, you know, if you go forward, Tiger Woods, Annika Sorenstam, today, Scottie Scheffler, Jordan Spieth, Justin Thomas, Brooke Henderson, Lydia Ko. You know, not everybody, but at least a large share of the best players are Rolex players.

嗯，这很有趣，因为当你这样列举出来时，确实听起来像是一个庞大的群体，但我认为他们的策略并不多。策略只追求最顶尖的。

Well, it's interesting because when you list them off like that, yeah, it sounds like a large group, but I think their strategy is not a lot. The strategy is only the best.

是的。占据最顶尖选手的很大份额。

Yes. A large share of the very best players.

这不仅适用于个人运动员，也适用于他们赞助的赛事。我是说，我和霍丁克的Ben Climber聊过，他指出他们不只赞助PGA巡回赛，还赞助大师赛。除此之外他们不会过多涉足，网球方面也类似。比如，他们会赞助温网。

And that goes for individual athletes, but it also goes for which events they sponsor. I mean, I was talking to Ben Climber at Hodinke, and he pointed out that they don't just sponsor PGA Tour. They sponsor the masters. They're not gonna really mess around much beyond that, similar to tennis. Like, yeah, we'll do Wimbledon.

现在他们赞助全部四大满贯赛事了。

Well, and now they do all four grand slams.

啊，好吧。

Ah, okay.

所以可以说，尤其在费德勒退役后，网球比高尔夫更能代表劳力士的形象。他们与世界上许多顶级选手合作，但费德勒确实带来了变革性的影响。

So, yeah, arguably, tennis, you know, especially post Federer, is even more iconic Rolex than golf is. They partner with many of the top top players in the world, but Federer really was transformational.

是的。我认为你说得对。

Yeah. Think I that's right.

我是说，虽然费德勒与劳力士的关系可能不及迈克尔·乔丹与耐克那样紧密，但也属于顶尖运动员合作的第二梯队。而且劳力士在高尔夫和网球领域有几点特别有趣之处：一是这些运动的整体品牌形象与瑞士奢侈手表非常契合；二是早在三十年代威尔斯多夫和汉斯执掌劳力士时期，证明手表能在打高尔夫或网球时保持精准走时就是个关键营销点——毕竟击球时手腕会不断受到冲击。

I mean, I don't think the Federer Rolex relationship is quite like a Michael Jordan Nike relationship, but it's in that next tier of great athlete partnerships. And there's a couple really interesting things about golf and tennis specifically for Rolex. One, just the overall brands of the sport, you know, mesh very well with Swiss luxury watch companies. But, also, even going all the way back to the thirties and the Willsdorf days, the Hans days of Rolex, proving that you could keep accurate time while playing golf or tennis was, like, a really key marketing message because you've got the shocks impacting the wrist of hitting the balls all the time.

想想那游丝，想想那精密摆轮轻盈悬浮、来回摆动的样子。那些震动，我真不明白它如何能持续精准运作。

Think about that hairspring. Think about that delicate balance wheel floating there carefully, ticking back and forth, hovering. The vibrations, I don't really understand how it keeps working perfectly.

没错。而且这类运动的顶尖选手职业生涯往往比其他运动长久得多。想想费德勒的职业生涯，想想阿诺德·帕尔默或杰克·尼克劳斯的职业生涯。

Yep. Totally. It's also the type of sport where you can be an elite top of the world player for a very, very long time as opposed to other sports. I mean, think about Federer's career. Think about Arnold Palmer's career or Jack Nicholas.

你知道吗？这些人曾数十年屹立于人类成就之巅，占据着统治地位。

You know? These people had multiple decades of dominance of being at the pinnacle of human achievement.

没错，正是如此。

Yep. That's right.

那么这就总结完了标志性的工具型运动专业

So that wraps up the iconic tool sport professional

手表 不。

watches No.

不是。劳力士。

Doesn't. Rolex.

我 我 我不

I I I don't

你 这里有

you there's

有件事你还没说。

there's a thing you haven't said.

除了现在我们俩手腕上戴的这款。迪通拿确实开创了一个市场 是的。一个独属于它的市场。

Except for the model that both of us are wearing on our wrists right now. The Daytona really created a market Yeah. In and of its own.

没错。而且彻底改变了整个机械表市场的格局。

Yeah. And completely changed the mechanical watch market period.

是的。代托纳，完全是由于历史的偶然，我们马上就会看到

Yes. The Daytona, through a complete accident of history, as we shall see in a minute here

创造了一个现象。

Created a phenomenon.

创造了现代手表收藏市场。

Created the modern watch collector market.

没错。

Yes.

而今天所有疯狂的价格、拍卖和狂热现象，我认为可以说都是因为代托纳。

And all of the crazy prices and auctions and insanity that occurs today, I think you can say really is all because of the Daytona.

这是其中一个因素，大卫。我不想让你夸大其词。我还有很多...

It's one component of it, David. I don't want you to oversell. I've got

好吧。至少从劳力士的角度来说

a lot. Okay. At least from the Rolex side of

是这样。

things.

是的。代托纳创造了这一切。

Yes. The Daytona is what created all of it.

现在是个好时机感谢我们节目的好朋友ServiceNow。我们曾向听众讲述过ServiceNow惊人的创业故事，以及他们如何成为过去十年表现最佳的公司之一。但有些听众询问ServiceNow具体是做什么的。今天，我们就来回答这个问题。

Now is a great time to thank good friend of the show, ServiceNow. We have talked to listeners about ServiceNow's amazing origin story and how they've been one of the best performing companies the last decade. But we've gotten some questions from listeners about what ServiceNow actually does. So today, we are gonna answer that question.

首先，近期媒体频繁引用的一句话是，ServiceNow被称作企业级AI操作系统。但更具体地说，ServiceNow创立于22年前，最初仅专注于自动化。他们将实体文书工作转化为软件流程，最初服务于企业内部的IT部门。仅此而已。随着时间的推移，他们在这个平台上不断扩展，处理更强大、更复杂的任务。

Well, to start, a phrase that has been used often here recently in the press is that ServiceNow is the, quote, unquote, AI operating system for the enterprise. But to make that more concrete, ServiceNow started twenty two years ago focused simply on automation. They turned physical paperwork into software workflows initially for the IT department within enterprises. That was it. And over time, they built on this platform going to more powerful and complex tasks.

他们的服务范围从IT扩展到其他部门，如人力资源、财务、客户服务、现场运营等。在过去二十年的发展过程中，ServiceNow已经完成了连接企业各个角落、实现自动化所需的繁琐基础工作。

They were expanding from serving just IT to other departments like HR, finance, customer service, field operations, and more. And in the process over the last two decades, ServiceNow has laid all the tedious groundwork necessary to connect every corner of the enterprise and enable automation to happen.

因此，当AI技术兴起时，从定义上来说，AI本身就是高度复杂的任务自动化。而谁已经构建了平台和与企业的连接网络，以实现这种自动化？正是ServiceNow。所以回答‘ServiceNow如今做什么’这个问题时，他们所说的‘连接并赋能每个部门’绝非虚言。

So when AI arrived well, AI kinda just by definition is massively sophisticated task automation. And who had already built the platform and the connective tissue with enterprises to enable that automation? ServiceNow. So to answer the question, what does ServiceNow do today? We mean it when they say they connect and power every department.

IT和人力资源部门用它来管理全公司的人员、设备和软件许可。客户服务部门使用ServiceNow检测支付失败并路由到内部正确的团队或流程解决问题。供应链组织则用它进行产能规划，整合其他部门的数据和计划，确保所有人步调一致。不再需要在不同应用间反复切换、多次输入相同数据。最近，ServiceNow还推出了AI代理，任何岗位的员工都能创建AI代理处理繁琐事务，让人力专注于更高层次的工作。

IT and HR use it to manage people, devices, software licenses across the company. Customer service uses ServiceNow for things like detecting payment failures and routing to the right team or process internally to solve it. Or the supply chain org uses it for capacity planning, integrating with data and plans from other departments to ensure that everybody's on the same page. No more swivel chairing between apps to enter the same data multiple times in different places. And just recently, ServiceNow launched AI agents so that anyone working in any job can spin up an AI agent to handle the tedious stuff, freeing up humans for bigger picture work.

ServiceNow去年入选《财富》全球最受赞赏公司榜单和《快公司》最佳创新者工作场所，正是源于这一愿景。若您希望在企业各个领域利用ServiceNow的规模与速度优势，请访问servicenow.com/acquired，只需告知是Ben和David推荐即可。

ServiceNow was named to Fortune's world's most admired companies list last year and Fast Company's best workplace for innovators last year, and it's because of this vision. If you wanna take advantage of the scale and speed of ServiceNow in every corner of your business, go to servicenow.com/acquired, and just tell them that Ben and David sent you.

感谢ServiceNow。好了，David，说说劳力士迪通拿吧。

Thanks, ServiceNow. Okay. So, David, the Rolex Daytona.

哦，没错。这个瞬间风靡全球的表款——或者说并非如此。迪通拿与劳力士其他表款不同，它是计时码表，或者按他们的说法叫‘宇宙计型’。

Oh, yes. The instant worldwide sensation or not. So the Daytona, unlike all of Rolex's other watches, is a chronograph or as they call it a cosmograph.

是的。毕竟，这可是劳力士。

Yes. Because, again, this is Rolex.

我们不能用行业标准术语。那么什么是计时码表？这个华丽术语其实就是指秒表。

We can't use industry standard terms. So what is a chronograph? A chronograph is a very fancy term for a stopwatch.

无论你认为普通机械表有多复杂，现在想象一下迪通拿这样的表款：主表盘上有完整的秒针计时秒数，另一个小表盘计分钟，还有一个计小时，所有这些功能都叠加在常规手表功能之上。

However complicated you thought a regular mechanical watch was, now add in something like the Daytona where you also have a full seconds hand on the main dial that counts seconds and then another dial to count minutes, and then another dial to count hours, all in addition to the regular watch function.

没错。迪通拿的表盘上有四个小表盘，简直不可思议。如今看来，劳力士其实制造计时码表已有很长历史。这是他们在二战前、安德烈·海尼格时代之前、甚至早于任何人考虑这类产品时，推出的首款工具腕表。

Yes. There are four dials on the watch face of the Daytona. Incredible. Now it turns out Rolex has actually made a chronograph for a very long time. This was the first tool watch that they introduced way back before World War two, before Andre Heininger, before anybody was thinking about this stuff.

大体上它长这样，但当时并未引发狂热追捧。

And in large part, it looked like this, but there was no craze around it.

是的。1962年，劳力士成为佛罗里达州戴通纳海滩上当时相对较新的戴通纳国际赛道的官方计时器。为纪念这一重要时刻，次年1963年，劳力士正式将他们已制作约三十年的计时码表命名为'迪通拿'。

Yes. So in 1962, Rolex becomes the official timekeeper of the then relatively new Daytona International Speedway in Daytona Beach, Florida. And to commemorate this great moment, the next year in 1963, Rolex officially starts calling their chronographs, which, again, they've been making for, like, three decades at this point, Daytonas.

他们考虑过勒芒，因为与法国勒芒赛事也有密切合作。但对劳力士品牌而言，名称需具国际吸引力，且不能有美国人发不出的静音字母。还有什么比'迪通拿'更合适？我能看懂这个词，也能准确发音。

They thought about Le Mans because they were also very closely involved with Le Mans, the race in France. But to the name Rolex, this has to have international appeal and can't have silent letters that Americans can't pronounce. What's better than Daytona? I can look at the word. I can say it out loud.

正如我们一直讨论的，二战后的美国市场才是重点。1962年还有什么比戴通纳赛道、飞驰赛车、电影明星更能代表美国魅力？

And, again, like we've been talking about, the market is America post World War two. What could be more American glamour in 1962 than Daytona, Speedway, Fast Cars, Movie Star

24小时耐力赛？没错。

Twenty four hour race? Yeah.

24小时耐力赛，完美契合。几年后，当时真正的顶级男演员保罗·纽曼主演了1969年赛车题材电影《获胜》。拍完这部电影后，你猜怎么着？他真把赛车发展成了业余爱好。

Twenty four hour race. It's perfect. And then a couple years later, one of the true leading man actors of the day, Paul Newman, stars in a 1969 film called Winning about being a race car driver. And after he stars in the movie, well, guess what? He develops a hobby of becoming an actual race car driver.

他同样著名的妻子——女演员乔安妮·伍德沃德，送了他一块专属的劳力士迪通拿用于赛车活动，表背刻着永恒铭文：'小心驾驶——我'。签名为'我'。看，我们又在谈论浪漫、生活方式、标志性品牌的塑造过程。

And his equally famous wife, the actress Joanne Woodward, gifts him with a Rolex Daytona of his very own for his racing activities with the immortal inscription on the back, drive carefully dash me. You know, signed me. Yeah. Again, we've been talking romance, lifestyle, development Iconic. The the brand.

没错，这就是标志性。没有比这更经典的了，堪称完美。

Yeah. It's iconic. You can't get any more iconic than that. It's perfect. Yes.

你完全能理解这为何会在市场引发疯狂热潮。

You can totally see how this would set off an absolute insane craze in the market.

除了你说的这一点，它并不会立刻见效。

Except to your point, it doesn't right away.

但它确实没有。劳力士历史上有太多这样的时刻，真的，在我们讲述的所有故事中，公司竭尽全力让一切完美配合，却未能如愿。然而几年后一只蝴蝶扇动翅膀，突然间，

Except it doesn't. There's so many of these moments in Rolex history, really, in all the stories we tell where the company does everything in their power to align the stars perfectly, and it doesn't work. But then a butterfly flaps its wings several years later, and all of a sudden,

事情就成了。比如在意大利？

it does. Say in Italy?

1969年保罗·纽曼主演了这部电影。大概在那之后一年左右，乔安妮送了他这块表。此时的保罗·纽曼已是标志性人物，全球各地都有他的照片，他是引领潮流的风向标。

So 1969 is when Paul Newman stars in this movie. It's sometime, you know, in the next year or so after that when Joanne gives him this watch. Paul Newman absolutely is iconic at this point in time. He's being photographed all over the world. He's a leading style figure.

他登上各类杂志，而这就是他的表。他戴着这块表，一戴就是十年十五年左右。直到1984年的某天——这中间经历了漫长的岁月，发生了许多故事，我们稍后会再提到——1984年某日，他女儿内尔带男友回家。

He's in magazines, and this is his watch. He's wearing this watch. And he wears it for about ten, fifteen years or so. And then one day in 1984, so long, long, long time later, lots of history passes, which we will come back to. And one day in 1984, his daughter Nell has her boyfriend over.

保罗问女儿的男友知不知道时间，对方回答：'我不知道，我没戴表。'保罗一时兴起说：'给，拿去吧，走时很准的。'就这样把保罗·纽曼迪通拿送给了女儿的男友。

And Paul asks the daughter's boyfriend, does he know what time it is? And the boyfriend replies, I don't know. I don't have a watch. And Paul, on a whim, says, here, take this one. It keeps good time, and gives the boyfriend the watch, the Paul Newman Daytona.

这故事我还真不知道。

I actually didn't know this story.

对天发誓这是真事。

Swear to god this is true.

这块表拍卖出了史上最高价。

This watch sold at auction for the most money ever.

史上最高。我记得是1750万美元。

Ever. I think it was 17 and a half million.

给，拿这块吧。它走时很准。

Here. Take this one. It keeps good time.

当时迪通拿的市场——如果这种二级市场存在的话——这种表也就值200美元。所以你看，嘿，我喜欢那男朋友。没问题，拿块表去吧。

And at the time, the market such as it existed for Daytonas, the secondary market for Daytonas, it was like a $200 watch. So, you know, hey. I like the boyfriend. Sure. Have a watch.

我戴腻了。老兄，真羡慕那个男朋友。因为短短两年后的1986年，不知为何——至今原因成谜——意大利一群经销商开始疯狂收购保罗·纽曼版迪通拿同期生产的款式。

I'm done with it. Man, to have been the boyfriend. Because two short years later in 1986, for whatever reason, it is unknown, A bunch of dealers in Italy starts snatching up versions of the Daytona from the era when Paul Newman's Daytona was made.

必须说明的是，意大利有着深厚的腕表文化。当时欧洲多个地区都是如此，而美国实际上并没有这种文化。品牌想打开美国市场，那里新兴财富阶层想彰显成功，但美国始终未能形成意大利那种兼具收藏文化与时尚文化的腕表氛围。

And it's important to say here, in Italy, there is a real watch culture. This is true in various parts of Europe at this point in time in a way that in America, there's actually not watch culture. They wanna market to Americans. There's all this rising wealth, and people wanna celebrate their successes and all that, and they're trying. But America doesn't have a watch culture the way that Italy had both a collecting culture and a style culture.

所以意大利才有二级表商。没错。有传言说八十年代初，保罗·纽曼曾戴着这块表登上意大利时尚杂志封面——显然是在送男友之前拍的。或许这就是意大利人觉得这表很酷的原因。但没人能证实，也从没人找到过那期杂志。

Which is why there are secondary market dealers in Italy. Yep. So one rumor is that around this time in the early eighties, Paul Newman had been on the cover of an Italian style magazine wearing the watch, obviously taken before he gave it to the boyfriend. And maybe that was the reason that people in Italy decided this is a cool watch. Nobody really knows, and nobody has ever been able to locate that magazine cover.

所以

So

谁知道呢？

who knows?

总之不管什么原因，蝴蝶扇动了翅膀，意大利人觉得这表很酷。于是经销商开始收购所谓的'保罗·纽曼款'迪通拿——这是劳力士六十年代末七十年代初生产过几年的特定款式，表盘带着装饰艺术风格。

Well, for whatever reason, a butterfly flapped its wings, and Italians thought that the watch was cool. So the dealers start buying up the, quote, unquote, Paul Newman style Daytonas, which is a specific style was made for a couple years by Rolex in the late sixties, early seventies, and it had, like, a art deco style face to it.

对，还有非常独特的配色方案，边缘处带有红色元素。

Yeah. And a a very particular color scheme that sort of featured red around the edges as well.

没错。分钟秒刻度圈是红色的，字体也极具特色。

Yes. Red around the edges, around the track where the minutes and seconds are kept, but also very specific font.