宽岩缝与超宽岩缝

我觉得吧，我不确定有没有一个特别明确的顿悟时刻，但我想我的裂缝攀登之旅某种程度上是偶然开始的，因为我和汤姆当时在欧洲爬了很多新路线，比如在意大利那些地方。

think it's I'm not sure there was, like, a specific light bulb moment, but I guess my my Offwidth kind of journey just got established by accident in a way just because me and Tom were climbing a lot of new routes in Europe and like in Italy and stuff.

我特别记得我们去的几次旅行，我们当时就站在，其实我们在奥科谷，你听说过吗，就是格林斯比特所在的地方。

I I specifically remember some trips that we went on and we were just kind of stood stood in we were actually in Orco Valley, if you've heard of it where Greenspit is.

我们就站在山谷里。

And we just kind of stood in the valley.

那时候很多地方还没开发，我们每天早上就抬头看看山的两侧，然后看到一些裂缝。

It was when not much stuff had actually been developed and we just like, you know, each morning look look up to the side of the hills and then see see some cracks.

而且我们看到的那些裂缝，走近一看基本都是宽裂缝。

And and the ones that we could see were generally Offwidths when you walked up to them.

所以我们已经上去了，然后就想，哦，好吧，既然都爬上来了，那就得爬这个了，对吧？

So then we were kind of up there already, and then we were like, oh, well, we'll have to climb this now, won't we?

因为我们都走了那么远上来了。

Because we walked all the way up there.

所以这算是偶然发生的。

And then so it's kind of by accident.

其实并不是说，我当时就想，哦，太好了。

It's not really like I was like, oh, yes.

我并不是因为喜欢那种痛苦才去专门找宽缝攀岩的，只是我们刚好走到了那些裂缝跟前。

I'm seeking out Offwidths because I, like, I I love the pain and all this kind of stuff, but we just kind of went up to them.

我们就想，好吧。

We were like, okay.

既然都到这儿了。

We're here.

那就爬吧。

Let's climb it.

然后我就这么慢慢喜欢上了。

And then and then I kind of just got into it.

你懂吗？

You know?

而且我是那种，怎么说呢，不是特别强壮的攀岩者。

And and and I am the type of climber that kind of you you know, I'm not very strong.

就是说，我不是那种能单臂引体向上的力量型，但我有那种永不放弃的劲儿。

Like, I'm not strong as in, like, one arm pull up strength, but I'm very strong in terms of a never giving up kind of strength.

我觉得宽缝攀登正好适合这种风格。

And I feel like offwidth thing, like, lends itself to that style of climbing.

所以我觉得我的天赋和找到这些宽缝并攀登它们的过程，不知不觉就完美结合了。

So I I think my my kind of natural abilities and the point of finding these offwidths and climbing them, they kind of, like, cohesively came together without me potentially realizing.

这可能就是原因吧。

And that's probably that's probably why.

然后，当你和搭档一起爬的时候，你会特别兴奋，我和汤姆一起爬的时候，就是很开心，有说有笑的。

And then, you know, when you're climbing with a partner and you just get psyched on things, so me and Tom were climbing together and you're just, like, having a good laugh.

然后一件事接着一件事，突然你就想，哦，美国有个项目。

And then, one thing rolls onto the next, and then suddenly you're just like, Oh, there's this project in America.

我们去试试吧。

Let's go and try this.

然后一切就从那里开始了。

Then it all just goes on from there,

真的吗。

really.

山姆？

Sam?

我确实有过那种恍然大悟的时刻。

I did have that lightbulb moment.

我觉得我很早就接触了宽缝攀登。

I feel like I was brought into Offwidth really quickly.

2020年的时候，我在丹佛是一名运动攀岩者。

So I was a sport climber in Denver in, like, 2020.

我从来没爬过裂缝或传统攀岩，我想学。

I'd never done any kind of crack or trad climbing, and I wanted to learn.

我报名参加了玛丽·伊登的培训班，她是我的导师，就像汤姆对皮特那样，对我来说也是。

And I signed up for this clinic by Mary Eden who's, like, my mentor, like, who who Tom is to Pete, like, to me.

我当时没完全意识到我报的那个营是宽缝营。

And I didn't really fully process the fact that the the camp I signed up for was an Offwidth camp.

所以就是在摩押的印第安溪待三天，专门练宽缝攀登。

So it's three days of Offwidth in Indian Creek in Moab.

那听起来像噩梦一样。

That's like a nightmare.

谁会去干这种事啊？

Who does that?

是不是就你一个人报名了这个营？

Like, were you the only person in the camp?

不是。

No.

早就报满了。

It was booked out.

名额全卖光了。

It was sold out.

我是最后一个名额，还是因为有人取消了才轮到我，我这才看到这个营。

I had the last spot and I only got it because someone had canceled and that's how I saw it.

这帮人真是疯了吧。

What a bunch of psychos.

不是的。

No.

那场面太疯狂了。第一天，她让我去爬那些倒置的宽裂缝岩块，都是她和朋友在摩押附近搞出来的。你得把脚插进裂缝里，然后试着做仰卧起坐的动作，还得沿着裂缝移动。那是我第一次体验裂缝攀爬，整整一天都在练这个，真的太难了。

It was crazy because like day one, she puts you on all these invert Offwidth boulders that like she and her friends have put up around Moab and so day one, you're just sticking your feet up into these cracks and trying to do a sit up and trying to move along it, and that was like my first experience of crack climbing, and I did that all day and it was so difficult.

第二天，我去了朗格峡谷一个叫‘龙穴’的地方，那是一个150英尺高的挤压式烟囱状通道。我挂在保护绳上，在一个伸手不见五指的黑暗洞穴里待了两个小时，外面根本看不见我。每次我喊收绳的时候，我都会往下滑大概一米半。我当时都急哭了，心想这辈子都别想从这个洞里出来了。

And then day two, I went into this 150 foot squeeze chimney called The Dragon's Lair up in Long Canyon, and I was on top rope like for two hours just in this dark cave where like no one could see me, and every time I'd call take, it would I would slide down like a foot and a half, and I would be crying because I was like, I'm never gonna get out of this thing.

等我终于爬出来的时候，眼睛都通红了，还一直在吐沙子。那时候我就觉得，跟这次攀爬比起来，普通的手点脚点都简单得不行，之后再也没遇到过比这更耗人的挑战了。从那之后我就彻底迷上这个了。

And when I came out, finally, my eyes were red and I was like spitting sand and I was like, that climb makes handholds and footholds look like eight, and then nothing has ever seemed like as intense as that, and after that, just got really hooked.

我也说不清是不是创伤后遗症什么的，但从那以后，比起其他裂缝攀岩类型，我总觉得宽缝攀岩更对我的路子，所以后来就一直往这个方向钻研。

I don't know if it was trauma bonding or what, but after that, Offwidth climbing always felt more familiar to me than other crack styles, and so I just kept gravitating towards it.

那时候我总想挑战难度越来越高的线路，也很幸运找到了导师，还加入了一个女性团体，她们连续三年夏天带我去怀俄明州挑战Voodoo区域的裂缝线路，我们就是在那里练了所有的宽抱石线路。

I kept wanting to do, like, harder and harder stuff, and I was lucky to find, you know, mentors and, like, women in a group that brought me to Wyoming for three summers in a row to do Voodoo cracks, and that's where we did all, like, the Offwidth Boulders.

后来我就彻底迷上了这种玩法，当时我反应过来，就像皮特你之前说的那样，宽缝攀爬是一种完全不一样的攀岩风格。

So I just got really hungry for it once I realized how like, you know, Pete, you were saying, it it it's a different style of climbing.

对我来说，它非常考验脑力。

To me, it feels very cerebral.

我觉得这种攀岩方式特别适合那些喜欢过度思考和分析的人。我本身是工程师出身，所以我就想把每个动作都拆解开来，好好规划一下。

It feels like very it, like, lends itself to someone who likes to overthink and analyze things, and, like, I'm an engineer by trade, and I wanted to, like, break everything down and really plan it out.

而且我也挺喜欢它的可预测性。

And I like how predictable it is too.

我喜欢那种可以精心编排好路线，然后一步步执行的感觉。

I like how you can really like develop your own sequence and then execute.

中间其实没什么乱七八糟的插曲。

There's not many random things that happen in between.

所以从那以后我就彻底迷上了。

So I just got obsessed from there.

对。

Yeah.

这种攀爬方式可能比其他类型更讲究循序渐进，毕竟大部分时间你都得双手离岩。

It is maybe more slow and steady than most other types of climbing just because it's like you're just you're basically no hands the whole time.

你就像是在那儿悠闲地待着。

You're like, I'm chilling.

虽然状态很放松，但动作其实特别费劲。

I'm chilling, but it's so hard to move, kind of.

对。

Yeah.

我们常说那个Offwidth（宽缝）技巧就是：每一个动作都是休息，每一次发力都在恢复体力。

We always say that Offwidth thing is every move is the crooks, every move is a rest.

对，基本上就是这样。

Like, it's it's basically what it is.

你一直就是在休息和勾脚。

You're just rest resting and crooksing the whole time.

不过也没什么特别难的，就是那种有点奇怪的感觉。

But but nothing's ever, like, that that difficult, but nothing's ever it's it's one of those weird weird things.

是的。

Yeah.

没有那种特别疯狂的难点。

There there's no crazy crooks.

你永远不会遇到那种特别浅的指洞或者什么，让你觉得，这动作太狠了。

You you never get to the the shallow mono or something where you're like, that's a heinous move.

我就是过不了那个卡住的关键点。

I just can't do the stopper crux.

比如，裂缝攀登里有什么卡住的关键点吗？

Like, what are there stopper cruxes on Offwidths?

比如那种转身动作之类的？

Like the pivot or something?

或者

Or

我觉得我应该接这个话，说有的，因为确实还有一些我还没完成的线路。

I I feel like I feel like I should take this and say yes because there are there are still things that I haven't sent.

还有一些我正在攻克的东西。

There's still things that I'm working on.

比如，我刚爬了《邪恶的代价》，我觉得对我来说难点在于你要做一个特别张开的鸡翅动作。

Like, I just did The Price of Evil and I feel like the crux for that for me was the fact that you're doing such a flared chicken wing.

你得坐起来，还得保持摩擦，而且没有像你在宽缝里习惯的那种锁定动作。

You have to do the sit up and you have to hold friction and it there's no like locker move like you're used to on Offwidths.

你知道，你习惯的就是，好吧。

You know, you're used to be just being like, okay.

在这种尺寸下，我要做这个鸡翅，或者我要做这个手堆，但在这里，你只能一点点地挪动，用胳膊一点一点地往上蹭。

Well, in this size, I'm gonna get, this chicken wing or I'm gonna get this, you know, hand stack, and here, you're just inching up, like, you know, bit by bit with your arms.

你的肩膀皮都磨破了，如果你不全身心投入，忍受那种疼痛，你就过不去。

You're burning the skin off your shoulders, and if you don't fully fully commit to that and like endure the pain, then you can't really get through it.

所以不一定是有个动作你做不了，而是有个动作太疼了，你没法做。

So it's not necessarily that there's a move that you can't do, it's there's a move that's like too painful for you to do.

或者像《世纪裂缝》那样的，你可能会因为脚疼而先耗尽体力，而不是因为其他什么。

Or like on something like Century Crack, it's like you're gonna burn out from foot pain before you burn out from like, you know, something else.

所以你真的得训练那些休息点的细节，搞清楚哪里该冲刺，哪里该放慢速度，稍微甩甩手休息一下。

And so you really have to just train like the intricacies of those rests and figure out where you're sprinting, where you're really like slowing down and kinda shaking out.

所以我确实觉得还是有难点的。

So I do feel like there are still cruxes.

这有点像自己选择要打哪场仗。

It's kinda like a pick your own battles thing.

比如，你是想做一个非常非常技术性的动作？

Like, do you wanna do a really, really technical move?

你是想做一个大翻身来通过这段，还是想慢慢地挪过去，然后保持那种安全感？

Like, do you wanna do, like, a huge flip to get over this section, or do you wanna shuffle through it really slowly and then maintain that security?

在宽缝里确实也会遇到难点，通常是在岩缝的唇部区域。

You definitely do get cruxes on Offwidths as well, usually kind of round the lip sections of roots.

而且通常是从——嗯，我觉得有两件事。

And it's usually the case of getting from well, two things, I think.

你提到的一件事，Alex，就是你被卡在里面，然后突然遇到一个更窄的段落，你突然就，哦，好吧。

One of the things that you said, Alex, where you're you're, like, really locked inside, and then you suddenly come to a narrower section or whatever it is, and you're suddenly like, okay.

我的身体没有那么多部分

Not as much of my body is

你得把身体探出去。

You have to come outside.

对。

Yeah.

你得稍微探出去一点。

You have to come outside a little bit.

虽然还是属于Offwidth的范畴，但当你身体探出裂缝时，发力会更有效。

You're kind of still offwidth thing, but it just becomes more powerful when you're outside the crack.

所以这算是一种情况，确实会有难点。

So that's kind of one time there is crooks.

另一种情况是，你得想办法从脚先出来的姿势变回手先出来的姿势，比如在屋顶或者洞穴边缘的转折处。

Then other times is where you're trying to get from, like, feet first back to hand first at, like, the pivot of at, like, the the lip of a roof or lip of a cave or something.

而且这种从水平状态转到垂直，或者转到轻微悬垂的状态，通常都是最难的动作，我一直这么觉得。

And it's always like going from horizontal to vertical or horizontal to just gently overhanging, which is always what generally the hardest moves, I always think.

世纪裂缝现在还是世界上最难的宽缝吗？

Is is Century Crack still the hardest Offwidth in the world?

休息之后我们会带来更多内容。

We'll be back with more after the break.

亚历克斯，我知道你是大卫能量棒的粉丝。

Alex, I know you're a fan of David bars.

他们有两种，金棒和铜棒。

They have two types, the gold bar and the bronze bar.

你通常选哪种？

What is your go to?

得了吧。

Come on.

这里是《攀登黄金》。

This is Climbing Gold.

当然是金棒了。

It's all about the gold bar.

老兄，还能有别的选择吗？

Dude, could it be any other way, really?

对。

Yeah.

没错。

Exactly.

我是说，虽然必须是金条，但我其实本来就更喜欢金条。

I mean, it has to be the gold bar, but I do actually prefer the gold bar anyway.

它们有什么区别？

What's the difference between them?

区别在于蛋白质含量。

The the difference is the amount of protein.

金条每150卡路里含28克蛋白质，这是市面上蛋白质与卡路里比例最高的。

The gold bar has 28 grams of protein for 150 calories, which is the highest ratio of protein to calorie on the market.

铜条有20克蛋白质，150卡路里，虽然也很高，但没那么夸张。

The Bronze Bar has 20 grams of protein, 150 calories, which is still very high, but slightly less insane.

铜条有糖果棒的感觉，但你知道它其实对你有好处。

The Bronze Bar has the vibes of a candy bar, but you know it's actually good for you.

对。

Yeah.

我觉得选哪款主要看你想要达到什么样的营养目标。

I think which bar you choose comes down to what you're trying to achieve nutritionally.

我通常会在攀岩一天或者健身之后吃根金条，感觉它挺有助于恢复的，而且徒步下山的时候当个零食吃也很美味。

I usually eat a gold bar after a day of climbing or a gym session, and I feel like it helps with recovery, and it's just a tasty snack to eat while I hike out.

David 给咱们的听众准备了一个特别优惠。

David is offering our listeners a special deal.

去 davidprotein.com/climbinggold 买四盒，第五盒免费。

Buy four cartons and get the fifth one free when you go to davidprotein.com/climbinggold.

你也可以在亚马逊，或者塔吉特、沃尔玛、克罗格等线下门店找到大卫蛋白棒。

You can also find David on Amazon or in stores at Target, Walmart, Kroger, or others.

亚历克斯，你接下来有一堆旅行安排，听起来好像都不是为了攀岩。

Alex, you've got a bunch of travel coming up, and it sounds like it's not really for climbing.

你是怎么确保自己坚持营养计划的？

How do you make sure you're you're keeping up with your nutritional routines?

我旅行的时候总是带着AG1，就是那种小包装的。

Well, I always travel with AG1, the little travel packs.

它们很方便,直接扔包里就行, basically一天一包。

They're easy to throw in my bag, basically one a day.

现在口味也多了, 有原味, 还有柑橘和浆果味。

They come in more flavors now too, so you can do the original or the citrus and berry.

Basically, 这样我即使在旅行中也能保持早晨的固定习惯, 挺好的。

And, basically, it's just nice for me to maintain my consistent morning routine even when I'm traveling.

对。

Yeah.

我觉得有时候在路上吃饭, 真的挺难的。

I feel like it's sometimes eating when you're on the road.

比如, 吃得好真的很难。

Like, eating well is so hard.

No, 确实。

No.

我觉得这真的很难。

I think it's super hard.

我的意思是，基本上，它只是帮我保持在正确的计划上。

I mean, basically, it just, like, helps me stay on on the right program.

AG1 NextGen含有超过75种成分，有助于支持肠道健康和免疫防御。

AG one NextGen has 75 plus ingredients that help support gut health and immune defense.

而且这是保持健康早晨习惯的一个非常简单的方法。

And it's a really easy way to maintain a healthful morning routine.

访问drinkag1.com/climbinggold，在你第一次订阅AG1时，欢迎套装里会有一份AG1口味样品和一瓶维生素D3加K2。

Visit drinkag1.com/climbinggold to get an a g one flavor sampler and a bottle of vitamin d three plus k two free in your welcome kit with your first a g one subscription.

那是价值72美元的东西。

That's a $72 value.

网址是drinkag1.com/climbinggold。

That's drinkag1.com/climbinggold.

你有没有用过咖啡因来帮你度过那些重要的日子？

Do you ever use caffeine as one of the things to get you through big days?

我从来没有真正刻意去追求咖啡因，但你知道，我偶尔会在能量胶、运动食品里摄入一些，我完全不排斥。

I have never really intentionally sought out caffeine necessarily, but, you know, I occasionally have it in in gels and goos and random sports products, and I'm definitely not opposed to it.

我的意思是，我知道它有用。

I mean, I know it helps.

对。

Mhmm.

是的。

Yeah.

LMNT出了个新口味，柠檬水冰茶。

LMNT's got a new flavor, lemonade iced tea.

它含有红茶提取物。

It's got black tea extract.

好处是，这种咖啡因更像茶里的那种。

The benefit is that that caffeine is more like how it is in a tea plant.

它和茶氨酸、多酚结合在一起，所以能带来更平稳的感觉。

It's bundled with L theanine and polyphenol, so it creates a steadier feeling.

它不像你有时从能量胶里得到的那种疯狂的咖啡因冲击。

It's not just like that crazy caffeine hit that you sometimes get out of gels.

其实，我一直在喝LMNT的柠檬水冰茶，在Greg那里，味道不错。

Actually, I have been drinking the the LMNT lemonade iced tea at the Greg and tastes good.

然后我嗯。

And I Mhmm.

基本上，我猜当你想要完成你的项目时，咖啡因肯定有帮助。

Basically, I assume that caffeine must help when you're trying to send your project.

但是，我的意思是，在运动科学方面有很多证据表明，只要不过量，咖啡因有助于提高表现。

But, I mean, there is a lot of evidence in in sort of sports science that caffeine helps performance as long as you don't overdo it.

所以，在运动时摄入咖啡因真的没什么坏处，是的。

And so there's really no harm in in having caffeine Yeah.

你知道，在运动期间。

You know, during exercise.

在drinklmnt.com/climbinggold购买任何产品，即可免费获得一份八包Element最受欢迎饮品混合口味样品。

Get a free eight count sample pack of Element's most popular drink mix flavors with any purchase at drinklmnt.com/climbinggold.

那就是drinklmnt.com/climbinggold。

That's drinklmnt.com/climbinggold.

世纪裂缝还是世界上最难的宽缝吗？

Is is Century Crack still the hardest Offwidth in the world?

我觉得是。

I believe so.

对。

Yeah.

对。

Yeah.

是什么让它比其他宽缝难这么多？

What what makes that so much harder than than other Offwidths?

就是长度。

It's just the length.

就是它的长度。

It's the length of it.

我觉得它有一百四十英尺长，就是整个水平方向的长度。

I think it's I think it's one forty, the full horizontal length.

那转过去之后还有吗？还是说尽头是什么样的？

And then is there more as you turn around or or what's the transition at the end?

它有尽头吗？

Is is there an end to it?

到尽头你怎么办？

What do you do at the end?

它慢慢过渡到四十五度角，然后几乎垂直，然后又折回来。

It transitions, like, slowly to, a 45 degree angle, and then it goes kind of almost vertical and then it kicks back again.

所以对我来说，我得重新倒挂，这挺疯狂的，要把脚甩回头顶上方，然后还得调整姿势才能爬到顶。

So you like for me, I have to reinvert which is kinda crazy like throwing your feet back up over your head and then you have to do a setup to like get up to the top.

但很长一段时间，你就是在那里挪动。

But for a really long time, it's just like you're shuffling.

有意思的是，它大概分成五个不同的部分，每个部分都让我想起我爬过的某条5.13线路。

And it's interesting because like there it's kinda like five different sections that in my mind each map on to like a different five thirteen that I've done.

结尾部分跟《邪恶的代价》特别像，技术含量很高，动作有点滑，但到了某个关键点你就锁住了。开头嘛，感觉挺像自由式动作的。

Like the ending is very similar to The Price of Evil and that it is super technical, it's a bit slippery, but then you get to a certain point where you're like locked in and then the beginning, you know, it's a lot like free manliness.

前面有几个大动作，还有很扎实的滑行动作，中间那段又长又紧又疼，让我想起《腹部装满》。

There's like a really big moves, there's really like solid shuffles, and then in the middle you have that long tight painful section that reminds me of Belly Full.

所以我觉得它需要用到所有这些技巧，但说到底，你得在同一个肌腱上撑很久很久。

And so I feel like it kinda requires like all of those skills, but at the end of the day, you're on the same tendon for a really, really long time.

所以你得忍受很多疼痛。

So there's a lot of like pain you have to deal with.

而应对这种疼痛的唯一办法，就是学会如何高效地休息，一步一步来。

And the only way to deal with that pain is like learning how to rest really efficiently move by move.

我还以为你要说靠维柯丁止痛呢。

I thought you were gonna say Vicodin.

哦，那个我还没试过。

Oh, well, I haven't tried that.

我还以为是靠Offwidth（一种攀岩技术）呢。

I thought that was the Offwidth.

那不是宽缝攀登的一部分吗？

Isn't isn't that part of the Offwidth rack?

你就吃点药，然后拼命干。

You just like dose up and just go hard.

然后出来的时候就像一块生肉。

Then you come out the end like a piece of raw meat.

你会说，我说过，我爱攀岩。

You're like, I said, I love rock climbing.

而且我什么都感觉不到。

And I can't feel anything.

对，没错。

Yeah, exactly.

我唯一感觉到的就是活着。

The only thing I feel is alive.

是的。

Yeah.

我在想，你知道，我现在有两个小孩了。

I was thinking, you know, I'm like, I have two little kids now.

我花更多时间在车库里训练。

I spend way more time training in my garage.

然后我就想，你知道，宽缝攀登可能是所有攀登类型中最容易训练的，因为它很容易模拟，然后就像做仰卧起坐，你知道，做悬垂举腿，然后就像，你知道，做个模拟，做个堆叠。

And I was like, you know, offwidth climbing is probably the most trainable form of climbing of like any type of climbing because it's like so easy to replicate and then just like do crunches and, you know, like do hanging leg lifts and just like, you know, make a little simulate, do a stack.

基本上，它似乎比攀登中几乎任何其他项目都更容易训练。

Like, basically, it seems more trainable than than almost anything else in climbing.

我一直想知道，我就想，哦，我是不是该试试这些宽缝？

And I have always wondered, I'm like, Oh, should I try to do some of these offwidths?

然后我就想，天哪，在车库里设置这个太容易了，就在正常训练结束时，就像疯狂地在那东西上爬几趟，让我的小腿充血，然后做一堆仰卧起坐。

And I was like, Man, it'd be so easy to set this up in my garage and just like at the end of a normal training session, just like freaking do a couple of laps on a thing and like get my calves really pumped and like do a bunch of crunches.

你知道，我有点觉得，这酷吗？

You know, I'm kind of like, is is that like, is that cool?

这是我该做的事吗？

Like, is that something I should do?

比如说，这是不是

Like, is that a

我觉得宽缝攀岩和它的训练方法跟普通攀岩很不一样。

I mean, I think the great thing is about Offwidth climbing and the training with it is is very different to normal climbing.

你锻炼的肌肉不同。

You're working different muscles.

而且你锻炼的那些肌肉都是大块肌肉。

And also the muscles that you are working, they're just really large muscle types.

所以你可以练很多而不会感到疲惫。

So you can do so much of it and not get burnt out.

我觉得受伤的风险更小，至少对我来说是这样。

I feel like there's less chance of injury compared to or for me, I felt like that.

也许这只是我个人的感觉。

Maybe that's just me.

手指受伤或者肌腱问题的风险更小。

There's less chance of like a finger injury or like a tendon thing.

受伤的几率更大，比如膝盖受伤。

There's way greater chance of like, oh, my knee.

比如，我流血了。

Like like, I'm bleeding.

我流血了。

I'm bleeding.

对。

Yeah.

也许吧。

Maybe.

但那其实不会真正让你停下来，我觉得。

But that's not that's not really gonna kinda stop you, think.

对。

Yeah.

完全同意。

Totally.

但是，我，是的。

But I I yeah.

我的意思是，我确实，我确实，我确实这么认为。

I mean, I I do I do I do think so.

我觉得，设置起来真的很方便，而且挺简单的。

I think it's I think it's kind of really convenient to just, like, set something up, and it's pretty easy.

而且我以前在做很多宽缝训练的时候发现，我可以正常攀岩，因为在那两年里，我为了宽缝训练，一直到2011年来美国之前，我都在爬各种宽缝，但我仍然进行正常的攀岩，你知道的。

And what I found in the past when I was doing a lot of offwidth training is I could just do my normal climbing around it because in those those two years where I was training for Offwidths a lot in that lead up to 2011 when I came to America and climbed lots of Offwidths around, I was still doing normal climbing, you know.

我还是会去健身房。

I was still, like, going to the gym.

我还是会在岩壁上攀爬。

I was, like, climbing out on the grid.

我，你知道，我猜，或者那些影片让它看起来好像，你知道，我只是在汤姆的地下室里，从来没离开过，但实际上，你知道，我那时候甚至不住在汤姆附近。

I was do you know, I it I guess it makes it or the the films made it look like, you know, I was just like, oh, it's down in Tom's basement and never even left there and just like, but, of course, you know, I mean, I wasn't even living near Tom at that time.

所以我有时候会去地下室，但我其实在家里也建了一些东西。

So I was I was down in the basement sometimes, but I actually had things built at home.

我其实就有一个小小的裂缝训练箱，你知道，就这么大。

I just had, like, a little Offwidth box, you know, that was this big.

大概就一英尺长，我就用脚挂在那里面，像你说的，做做卷腹，做做叠放，然后同时呢，我也照常进行其他所有正常的攀爬训练，就是在岩壁上爬。

Like, it was probably, like, a foot long, and I would just hang in it by my feet and, like like you say, just do some crunchies, do some stacking, and then just like but then at the same time, I was just doing all my other normal climbing, you know, climbing on the grid.

我是说，在岩壁上爬完全不一样，你知道，就是站在摩擦点上，抓大圆点，做这些各种动作。

I mean, you climbed on the grid is way different, you know, just standing on smears, pulling on slopers, doing all this kind of stuff.

那裂缝训练，你是在每次训练结束的时候做，还是分开的日子做，还是说，就是那种……

So And so the the offwidth training, would you just do at the end of a session sort of deal or, separate days or, you know, just kind Kind of

其实是分开的日子。

separate days actually.

分开的。

Separate.

对。

Yeah.

因为我觉得这有点像，因为我有时候也会做点体能训练，你知道，就是那种，嗯，怎么说呢，不是纯攀岩专项的，然后你总是在训练结束的时候做，或者是在单独的日子做，就是那种感觉，哦，我在做体能训练。

Because I think of it as a like, because I sometimes do, like, workout stuff, you know, kinda like, oh, like, I don't know, stuff that's not pure climbing specific and you just always do it at the end of the session or on separate days where you're just kind of like, oh, I'm doing workout stuff.

而且看起来，裂缝攀登好像……

And it seems like Offwidths is like

我会把训练分开，你知道吗？

I would split the sessions, you know?

就是说，比如我在健身房，在岩壁上，进行正常的攀爬训练或者常规训练。

So it would kind of be like, okay, I'm at the gym, I'm at the wall, I'm doing my normal climbing session or normal training session.

我还是会做那种常规的手指耐力、力量抱石之类的训练。

You know, I was still doing, like, normal kind of finger endurance, strength bouldering type workouts.

但到了当天结束，或者回家之后，或者改天，我会专门安排时间，认真进行裂缝攀登的训练。

But then at the end of the day or when I got home or on a different day, then I'd be really, like, setting aside actual training sessions for Offwidth climbing.

Sam，你会专门训练裂缝攀登吗？

Sam, do you do you train for offwidth climbing?

会啊。

Yeah.

我会的。

I do.

其实我过去一年多都在为世纪裂缝训练，每周都去车库练两三次，因为这真的很费脚踝。

And I've actually spent the last year and a bit training for century crack and just doing the whole garage thing, like, every every week, either three or two times a week because it actually does take a lot out of your, like, ankles.

我得特别小心，不能拉伤或扭伤脚踝。

Like, I have to be really careful not to strain or sprain my ankles.

做完一段时间的大重量训练后，我得让脚踝好好休息。

I have to give them, like, a lot of rest after I'm doing heavy weighted sessions for a while.

大重量训练，就是挂着东西吊着吗？

And weighted sessions, you're, like, dangling from things with weights?

对。

Yeah.

因为当你爬裂缝的时候，我觉得

Because like when when you're climbing sensory I guess

你是在架着。

you're rack.

对，是的。

I claim Yeah.

我现在大概带了17.5磅的东西。

I mean, I am bringing like 17 and a half pounds right now.

我觉得皮特可能带了大概8磅的东西，但我想……

I think Pete probably brought like eight pounds of stuff, but I want to

17磅的装备？

17 pounds of gear?

这条路线很长，而且是从地面开始的。

It's a long route and it starts off the ground.

那大概就是七公斤或八公斤吧。

That's, like seven kilos or like eight kilos.

如果你想要在地面上有两个保护点来保命，那我就得带这么多。

It is that if you want two cams between you and death on the ground, then like that's kind of what I have to bring.

如果你只想要一个保护点，那你可以少带很多，但我更喜欢……我觉得当我感觉非常安全的时候，我能更努力地尝试。

If you want one cam, then you can bring like way less, but I prefer to just I feel like I can I can try harder when I feel really safe?

所以我会训练带20磅，然后我试着挑战自己能坚持多久不休息。

So like I'll I'll train like 20 pounds, and then I'm trying to push like how much I you know, how long I can go without stopping.

所以过去一年我基本上一直在练这个，也不是说完全只练这个，但确实练得很勤。

So I've been doing that pretty like exclusively for or not exclusively, but I've doing that pretty really consistently for the last year.

现在算是进入第二年训练期了。

And then I'm now in my, like, season two of, training for it.

距离第二年上那条路线还有四个月。

So have four months left until season two on the route.

所以亚历克斯，如果你想跟上，想建个裂缝训练器开始练，然后来白缘，我会把所有的设施和装备都给你准备好。

So Alex, if you wanna catch up, if you wanna, like, you know, build that crack trainer and start training and then come out to the white rim, I'll have all the infrastructure and the gear all ready for you.

这确实有点诱人，因为说实话，我一直有点好奇。

It it is slightly tempting because honestly, I I have always kinda wondered.

但话说回来，你试过哨兵裂缝，为什么以前没去爬呢？

But so, so you have tried Sentry Crack, why, why didn't you do it in the past?

对你来说，最大的挑战是什么？

Like, what, what was the big challenge for you?

我的意思是，除了那是一条150英尺倒挂的宽缝，显然很难之外，还有什么？

I mean, other than the fact that it's a 150 foot upside down, Offwidth and everything, like, obviously, it's hard.

但是，你知道，对你来说难在哪里？

But what, you know, like, what was hard for you?

部分原因是我当时不太清楚自己在为什么训练。

Part of it was that I didn't really know what I was training for.

我以前从没做过类似的事情。

I had never done anything similar.

所以，前一年我完成了我的第一条5.13路线，才刚刚接触到那个水平的攀岩，你知道，那些类型的转变。

So, like, the year before, I had done my first five thirteen and I had just gotten exposure to, that level of climbing, you know, those types of pivots.

对我来说，Century Crack感觉就像把五条5.13连在一起，但你还要背着整套装备，没有休息，而且一直用同一块肌肉。

Century crack to me feels like five five thirteens kinda linked in the end, but you're carrying the whole rack and you don't have any rest and you're on the same muscles the entire time.

所以当我开始训练时，我有五个月时间，我去了那条裂缝，然后花了两个月只是学习它，学习每一个必须做的动作。

And so when I started training, I had five months, I went onto the crack and then I spent two months just learning it and just learning like every single move that I had to pull.

我觉得和Pete和Tom的视频相比，我不是全程都在磨蹭，我做了更多动态移动，因为我的脚能放得更深一些。

I think compared to like what I've seen from Pete and Tom's videos, I'm not shuffling the whole way, I'm doing a lot more like dynamic movement, because I can get my feet in a bit deeper.

所以我一直在练习那些动作，也在尝试转化我训练的内容——对我来说，那是一个能让膝盖进去的尺寸，而且我用一种特定的方式休息——但到了裂缝上，它实际上比我训练的要窄一些，所以我不得不重新调整一些动作，改变伸展的距离和休息的具体方式。

And so I was practicing all those moves and I was also trying to translate like what I had trained which for me was a size where I could get my knees and I was resting in a particular way versus on the crack, it ended up being a bit narrower than I had trained, so I had to redo some of that movement and change like the distances that I'm stretching and exactly how I'm resting.

最后我从地面爬到了大约一半的位置，这对我来说已经算是个人最好成绩了，但爬完感觉筋疲力尽。

And I ended up getting a PR of, like, from the ground to about halfway, which for me felt like I was so gassed at the end of it.

然后我看了玛丽完成那条线路，其实我看得很清楚，因为我就在她上方的裂缝里，一直看着她，感觉……

And then after I watched Mary send it, which I actually got a really good view of because I was like right above her in the crack kind of like watching her the entire time, it felt

所以你是说你在岩壁顶部，就像从山上往下看那样？

So you're like on the top of the rim you mean like looking through the mountain?

对。

Yeah.

我一直和她对视，想传递正能量，她说我全程看起来像个疯子在笑，她都不敢看我。

I was making eye contact with her, I was trying to like project good energy and she said I looked like an insane smiling person the whole time and she's like avoiding my gaze.

但当我看到她的动作时，我才意识到要完成这条线路，我需要放慢速度，这样才能恢复体力，因为玛丽的速度在我看来慢得不可思议，她几乎每一步都在休息。

But when I watched that happen, I actually realized how slow I needed to go in order to do this and actually be able to recover because Mary was going at what felt to me like an incredibly slow pace because she was resting like every single move.

她甩甩脚，保持呼吸平稳，我当时就想，原来这就是我撞墙、遇到瓶颈的原因，我无法突破中点，而那段路仍然是我这辈子爬过最好的宽缝线路。

She was shaking out her feet, keeping her breathing really steady, and I was like, oh, this is why I'm hitting such a wall and such a plateau that I can't overcome in like on the at the halfway point, which is still which is still like the best offwidth climbing I've I've done in my life is just like that first section of century.

但我需要回到裂缝训练器上，先治好我因为过度使用而受伤的拇指，然后想办法恢复，学会放慢节奏。

But I need to go back into the crack trainer, heal from my thumb injury which I got from overuse, and then figure out how to recover and figure out how to go slower.

所以还得想办法在不同尺寸下也能做到，尤其是那种紧到感觉直接贴着脚趾骨头的尺寸，疼得要命。

So like and also figure out how to do that in like different sizes and like the tight size that feels like it's right on the bone of my toe and it's so painful.

你知道玛丽爬完世纪裂缝大概花了多长时间吗？

Do you know roughly how long it took Mary to climb Centricac?

中途花了多久？

How long en route?

比如她悬在半空的时间有多长？

Like, how long was she dangling?

对。

Yeah.

大概三十七分钟。

It was about thirty seven minutes.

好的。

Okay.

你和汤姆会怎么做呢？

What what what would you and Tom do?

我是说，那是不是类似的经历？

I mean, is that, like, similar experience?

哦，对。

Oh, yeah.

我不知道。

I don't know.

我猜大概半小时左右吧。

I guess it was around half an hour or something.

对。

Yeah.

对。

Yeah.

不过我不太记得了。

I I can't remember though.

应该是差不多那样吧，我猜。

It was it was something like that though, would have thought.

我觉得情况挺像的，我知道另外两个人，Danny和Humia。

I I think it's pretty similar for I know two other people, Danny and Humia.

是Humia吗？

Is it Humia?

不过Humia是八十三分钟。

Humia did eighty three minutes though.

哦，他是八十三分钟吗？

Oh, is he eighty three minutes?

哇。

Wow.

对。

Yeah.

所以我从Ashley那儿听到的消息，真是绝了。

So what I heard from Ashley, which is God.

负责给他做保护的那个人说，我不清楚他修屋顶花了多久，但他就在那个pod里待着，最后一直举着那个鸡翅，好像举了一个多小时。他们看不见他，他也什么动静都没看见。

Who belayed him, is that he I don't know how long it took him to do the roof, but he stayed at that pod, like, at the end just holding that, like, chicken wing for, like, over an hour, and they couldn't see him, and they and he didn't see anything.

所以他们只能抓着绳子，心里想，好吧。

So they're just holding onto the rope being like, okay.

估计他还在继续。

I guess he's still going.

到那时候压力特别大，因为你会想，我能不能撑过接下来这几步，还是得从头再来一遍？

And at that point, there's so much pressure because you're like, I can I can pull this night these next couple moves or I can do the entire thing again?

结果他成功了。

And he pulled it off.

不过，是的，他说是八十三分钟。

But, yeah, I mean, he says eighty three minutes.

那时间真长。

That's a long time.

我见过有人在哨兵线上做疯狂的动作。

I've seen people do some crazy laps on Sentry.

我见过有人玩了一个多小时，但还是能到那个转折点，但就是没能完全到终点。

I've seen people do over an hour that I've been playing, but, like, still, you know, make it to that pivot, but don't don't quite get to the end.

这很紧张，因为你可以慢慢走，试着恢复体力，或者试着加快速度，但你必须找到适合自己的方法。

And it's intense because like like you can go slow and try to recover that energy or you can try to try to go faster, but you have to find what works for you.

亚历克斯，你现在兴奋吗？

Are you psyched now, Alex?

是的。

Yeah.

我觉得，你知道，你需要去尝试一下。

It's, know I think it's like, you need to get on it.

你需要去

You need to get

尝试一下。

on it.

我我我这辈子想试试。

I I I would like to try it in my lifetime.

是的。

Yeah.

搞一个模拟器来玩玩。

Get a get a little simulator going.

对。

Yeah.

那今年秋天出来吧。

Well, come out come out this fall.

我会去的。

I I'll I'll be there.

我会拿到许可证的。

Like, I'll have the permits.

对。

Yeah.

其实，我有个正经问题想问你们。

Actually, I mean, legit question for you guys though.

感觉宽缝攀登确实比普通攀登麻烦多了。

I mean, it does seem like Offwidth climbing is just so much more of a hassle than the normal climbing.

我是说，Fitz刚才也提到了，但比如接近岩壁、后勤、清理绳距这些。

In terms I mean, Fitz was kinda touching on this, but like, the approaches, the logistics, the, like, the cleaning the pitches.

特别是那些长长的水平屋顶，你怎么把装备拿回来？

I mean, particularly these long horizontal roofs, like, how do you get your gear back?

你知道，我爬过很多传统攀，有时候懒得清理就直接把绳距留那儿了，因为你会想，谁在乎呢？

You know, like, I've done a lot of trad climbing where I just pinpoint the pitch out of laziness because you're like, who cares?

清理起来似乎比留在那儿更费劲。

Like, cleaning it seems like more work than than leaving.

你就会想，算了。

You're just like, whatever.

对吧？

Know?

但如果是宽缝攀爬，你也不想留装备，因为如果凸轮卡在那儿，你就会想，天哪。

But then with Offwidths, you don't wanna pinpoint either because if the cam's in the way, then you're like, oh, man.

我过不去那个凸轮了。

I can't get past the cam.

你知道吗？

You know?

就是，我也不知道。

It's like it's just I don't know.

感觉处理装备比其他类型的攀岩麻烦多了。

Like, dealing with the gear seems like much more of a hassle than in other types of climbing.

对。

Yeah.

我是说，处理那些大屋顶上的装备确实有点烦人。

I mean, dealing with the gear on those big roofs is kind of like it's kind of it's kind of annoying.

但就像任何事情一样，你习惯了就好，你知道的，你就辅助攀登回去，站在绳套里，然后……

But, like with anything, you just get used to it, you know, and you just aid back across and stand in some slings and

对。

Yeah.

你当时是不是在反向辅助攀登之类的？

Were were you, like, reverse aiding it or something?

或者你们是怎么拆掉它的？

Or how how do you guys strip it?

对。

Yeah.

反向辅助攀登。

Reverse aid.

你可以用爱德华凸轮手。

You can do the the Edward cam hands.

你知道，就像剪刀手爱德华那样。

You know, like Edward scissor hands.

对。

Yeah.

就是做爱德华凸轮手，手里拿着凸轮，但不是堆叠，而是直接用手中的凸轮。

That you do Edward cam hands, so you have the cams in your hand and but instead of stacking, you just use the cams in your hand.

这个方法挺好的。

It's quite a good method.

我的意思是，你还是得用腿，但是

I mean, you still have to use your legs, but

我觉得我们应该考考亚历克斯一些我遇到过的术语，比如，为这整件事做准备，看看他表现如何。

I feel like we should quiz Alex on some of the terms that I've run across, like, ready for this whole thing and see how he does.

嗯。

Mhmm.

好。

K.

亚历克斯，你知道什么是响尾蛇吗？

Do you know what what's a sidewinder, Alex?

我先来个简单的。

I'll start with an easy one.

我觉得是一种有点危险的蛇。

I think it's a somewhat dangerous snake.

不是吗？

No?

其他人，什么是Sidewinder？

What's a Sidewinder, everyone else?

就是当你半途而废，基本上就像鸡翅一样，半个身子在里面，然后像虫子一样慢慢往上挪，才能站起来。

It's when you are like halfway in and you're you're basically like chicken winging, you have half your body in and you're just kinda like inching up like a worm to get to get up.

这是专业术语吗？

Is that a technical?

我管那叫肩膀受伤。

I I call that a shoulder injury.

那就是你肩膀翻过去的方式。

That that's how you go over your shoulder.

好的。

Okay.

对，就是这样。

That's yeah.

我做过那个动作，肩膀上还留着疤呢。

I've I've I've done that one and I I still have a scar on my shoulder.

这确实挺有意思的。

It's it's fun.

下一个，宽马。

Next one, wide pony.

宽马。

Wide pony.

哦，你知道那是什么动作吧，亚历克斯？

Oh, you know you know what that one is, Alex?

宽马？

A wide pony?

你知道什么是宽马。

You know what a wide pony is.

那是美国的说法。

That's an American term.

那个既不是我、也不是汤米编出来的。

That's that isn't even me and Tommy who've made that up.

我不知道。

I don't know.

也许我说过，但我不清楚那个词是什么意思。

Maybe I've done it, but I don't I don't know what the term is.

那叫什么来着？

What's what's what's it?

你不知道什么是宽马吗？

You don't know what wide pony is?

我从来没听说过。

I never heard it.

没听说过。

No.

哦，那你可真是完全脱节了。

Oh, you're way out the loop, aren't you?

对。

Yeah.

嗯，我只是，你知道，我就是不知道。

Well, I'm just, you know, I'm just I don't know.

我本来想开玩笑说，我就像个井底之蛙，只待在我那小小的攀岩圈子里，但我想，我爬过很多东西，就是从来没听说过宽马步。

I'm I was gonna joke about, like, I'm just sheltered in my little climbing niche, but I'm like, man, I climb a lot of things, but I just have never heard of a wide pony.

宽马步基本上就是你在世纪裂缝上用的那种技巧。

Wide pony is basically the technique that you do on century crack.

所以，你知道，当你倒挂在屋檐下，你的脚像那样卡住，就像你……

So, you know, where you're inverted into a roof and you have your your feet camed in how you would, sort of like how you

夹在中间？

between it?

所以就是腿张开，手在中间？

So it's like your legs are out and your hands are between?

对。

Yeah.

没错。

Exactly.

然后双手夹在中间。

And then hands between.

所以这叫宽塞，因为你骑着一匹大马，双腿把岩缝撑开。

So it's a wide pony because you're riding a big horse because both your legs are spreading the roof.

对。

Yeah.

明白了。

Okay.

有道理。

That makes sense.

对。

Yeah.

没有。

No.

我没做过那个。

I've never done that.

那听起来好糟糕。

That seems terrible.

你从来没听说过那个？

You've never you've never heard of that?

我从来没听说过，但我觉得我也没做过，对吧？

I've never heard of it, but I don't think I've done that either, have I?

确实没有。

Not really.

我觉得大多数人，嗯，是的。

I think most people or yeah.

如果你不用宽马步技巧，他们就会把手放在腿后面，这样

If you don't do the wide pony technique, then they'll stack with their hands behind their legs, which

然后把脚放在前面。

And keep their feet in front of them.

把脚放在前面。

Keep their feet in front of them.

在屋顶上，我觉得难度大很多，但有些人更喜欢这样。

In in a roof, I mean, I think it's much harder, but some people prefer it.

我觉得这取决于你是胳膊更长还是腿更长。

Think it depends on whether you have like longer longer arms or longer legs.

比如我的大腿骨挺长的，胳膊不算特别短，但也不是特别长。

Like, I have pretty long femurs and my arms aren't like they're not super short, but they're not like really long.

所以我觉得做宽式pony对我来说更难。

And so I feel like it's much harder for me to do wide pony.

我更喜欢把腿叠在身后，然后翻过去到前面，一条腿一条腿地挪过去，而不是在中间蹭来蹭去，因为我觉得那样我的灵活性更差。

Like, I prefer to stack behind me and then flip and go in front and kinda just move one leg at a time over versus shuffling in the middle because I feel like I have less mobility that way.

所以这也取决于你的身体比例。

So it depends on your body proportions as well.

好的。

Okay.

Ready, Alex 是什么？

What is Ready, Alex?

什么是私人海盗？

What is the private pirate?

我不知道。

I have no idea.

私人海盗。

Private pirate.

我不清楚。

I don't know.

听起来像是，我在拉斯维加斯住，我觉得我应该知道这个。

It sounds like I mean, living in Vegas, I feel like I should know about that.

这有点像那种，你知道的，脱衣舞秀之类的。

It's like some kind of, you know, burlesque show or something.

但是

But

只是汤姆和皮特之间的事。

Just a Tom and Pete thing.

这其实不算是那种经典的问题。你知道Private Pirate是什么吗，Sam？

This isn't really like a classic Do you know what Private Pirate is, Sam?

或者你呢？

Or you?

我知道那是你以前用来从Cleaver的第一个Crux脱身的招数，但除此之外我就不知道了。

I know that it's the move you used to get out of the first Crux on Cleaver, but I don't know much beyond that.

Private Pirate。

Private Pirate.

所以这其实就是你

So this is actually where you

用的是假腿吗？

Use are the peg leg?

对。

Yes.

你说对了，Alex。

You're on it, Alex.

你可以用假肢或者什么的吗？

You you can the peg leg or something?

还是你把一条腿卸下来？

Or you post off a leg?

用假肢。

Use the peg leg.

对。

Right.

所以你知道，当你在一个屋顶的宽裂缝里，裂缝比较宽，你差不多倒着卡到臀部那里。

So you you know when you have like a you're in a roof offwidth and it's reasonably wide, you're like up to your like inverted up to your hips or whatever.

所以你不是完全在宽裂缝里，而是卡在臀部。

So you're not really in like wide pony, but you're like hips.

你整个身体进不去。

You can't get your whole body in.

所以你是靠大腿支撑。

So you're on the thighs.

但是后面还有一面墙。

But there's also like a back wall

就像你基本上要从一个挤压烟囱里掉出来一样。

to It's like you're falling out of a squeeze chimney basically.

就像倒过来一样。

Like if it's upside down.

对。

Yeah.

就像你半个身子在挤压烟囱里，然后掉出来。

It's like half your body's in a squeeze chimney and you're falling out.

是的。

Yep.

差不多。

Pretty much.

就像六号大小。

It's like size size six size.

但这时候你后面那只手可以撑在墙上。

But then you you have like a palming hand with the with the back hand.

所以你可以用手掌撑住身后的墙。

So like you can palm on the wall behind you.

比如说，如果这里有一面墙，然后还有一条裂缝。

Like, if there's a if there's a if there's a wall here and there's a crack

所以那不算是一条完整的裂缝。

So it's not a splitter.

对。

Yeah.

我明白你的意思了。

I see what you're saying.

不是完全那种裂缝。

Not a complete splitter.

对。

Yeah.

对。

Yeah.

就像是在裂缝旁边有个偏移点，你的臀部会朝向那个偏移点。

It's like an offset to the crack, so your arse is going to the offset.

你可以用手掌抵住身后的偏移点，然后可以用前伸的手像海盗那样——对。

You can palm on the offset behind you, then you can use your leading hand as like a a pirate Yeah.

海盗钩。

Pirate hook.

对。

Yeah.

好的。

Okay.

然后你的前腿就像根柱子一样，往前顶出去。

And then your your front leg is like a peg leg, and you're, like, pushing that in front of you.

这叫侧弓步。

So that's a private pirate.

对。

Yeah.

我明白你在描述什么，但我真心希望我永远不会用到那一招。

I I understand what you're describing, but I truly hope that I never have to do that.

所以我觉得，如果我得做那个动作，那说明情况肯定已经糟透了。

So I'm like, that seems like like something has gone horribly wrong if I'm doing that.

这其实

It's a

好的，不过这个技巧确实不错。

good it's it's a good technique though.

你可以试试反向海盗式，身体向后仰，用前手在背后做支撑。

You can, like, you can do reverse private pirate as well where you lean back over and palm with your hand your your your leading hand behind you.

这其实也是个非常实用的技巧。

It's actually that's actually a really good technique as well.

我觉得吧，这些名字嘛，至少对我来说和Tom是这样，以前我们俩经常一起爬宽裂缝，会在路线上尝试各种东西，摸索出不同的动作组合。但这些组合和潜在的动作，在普通攀岩的语境里，大家通常不太会特意去讨论。

I think I think with all I think with all these names well, for me and Tom anyway, when we were doing Offwidths a lot in the past together, we were we were trying things out on routes and we're coming up with different sequences, but they were sequences and potentially moves that we you don't really kind of talk about in normal climbing sense.

在正常的攀岩术语里，比如，你知道，右手抓小扣，右脚踩高做折膝，然后接一个反肩动作。

Like in normal climbing terms, we have, you know, like, grab the crimp with your right hand and do a drop knee off the high right foot and then go to a gaston.

我们有这些词，对我们攀岩者来说，这些就是普通词汇。

And we have all these words and to us climbers, they're just normal words.

但当我们爬宽缝的时候，我们没有这些术语可用。

But when we were Offwidth thing, we didn't have these terms to go by.

嗯，我和汤姆都没有。

Well, me and Tom didn't.

或者说我们不知道任何术语。

Or we didn't know any.

所以我们开始自己编，用我们那种傻乎乎的方式，编出一些傻乎乎但相关的词。

So we just started making them up so we could, in our stupid way, just came up with stupid things that were linked.

然后你们写了书，现在你们把这些奇怪的术语都固定下来了。

And then you wrote the book, so now you've codified your weird terms.

你们就像，现在新一代的宽缝攀岩者会把这些当作金科玉律。

You're like, now now a more generation of Offwidth climbers are gonna grow up being like, this is the gospel.

对。

Yeah.

现在它

Now it's

现在它已经写进书里了。

in now it's in the book.

是吗？

Is it?

对。

Yeah.

书里所有的术语，都是你

Are all the terms are all the terms in the book that you

它们都在书里。

They're in the book.

对。

Yeah.