威尔·莫斯：快乐的小意外

因为呢，

Because, like

为什么？

Why?

为了完成尝试吗？

For attempts?

嗯，对，就是为了完成尝试。

Well, yeah, for attempts.

说白了，想在一天内完成自由骑手路线真的很难，我问过的人都说，哦，你得从午夜开始，然后在黑夜里冲自由飞降，接着就遇到那个保龄球难题。

Like, basically, it was hard to understand how to do free rider in a day, like, in the twenty four hour time because everyone who I've talked to about it is like, yeah, like, you know, you start at midnight, and then you just do the free blast in the dark, and then you get to the bowler problem.

我说，黑夜里靠目测完成自由飞降？

And I'm like, the free blast in the dark, like, on sighting?

这听起来也太吓人了。

Like, that sounds heinous.

我可不想这么干。

I don't wanna do that.

是的。

Yeah.

这确实挺难的。

That's that's tough.

对。

Yeah.

所以我们最后决定，好吧。

So, basically, what we ended up deciding is we're like, okay.

我们打算试着凌晨四点出发，赶在日出时到达关键岩壁的底部。

We're gonna, like, try and start at, like, 4AM, get to the base of the crux slab pitch at sunrise.

但事情总是比你想象的慢。

But then everything's always slower than you think.

我们到底部的时候，正好日出。

And we got to the base, like, at sunrise.

然后我爬到了关键岩壁的底部，就这样。

And, yeah, I, like, climbed to the base of the crux pitch and then, yeah.

然后我就爬了那段最难的岩板路段。

Then I did the crux slab pitch.

那感觉怎么样？

Which how how'd how'd that feel for you?

感觉挺棒的。

It felt it felt pretty cool.

我居然在最难的地方找到了一个够得着的动作，没觉得特别难。

I was, like, able to do some, like, reach through thing through the crux that didn't feel too bad.

大家都说那儿得踩在一张信用卡大小的岩点上，但我右脚能稳稳地蹭住岩面，左脚也找到了个不错的踩点，直接伸手就跨过去了——我身高六尺二，臂展六尺五，占便宜了。

Like, everyone talks about standing on that, like, one tiny credit card, but I was able to get, like, a good smear on the right foot and, like, some left foot cramp and just, like, reach kind of past the crux because I'm, like six two with a six five wingspan.

是的。

Yeah.

明白了。

Okay.

你个子真高。

That's pretty tall.

是的

Yeah.

挺有意思的

Interesting.

你说的是不是这段路线最上面那个难点？

Is it is that the the upper crux of the pitch that you're talking about?

是的

Yeah.

对，就是最上面那个难点。

That's the upper crux.

因为我一直觉得的难点是在下面那个地方，就是你往右跨步的那个位置。

Because what I what I always thought of as the crux is the part below that where you do the like step like when you move right.

哦，原来如此。

Oh, Okay.

对。

Yeah.

我其实也能挺顺利地够到那个点。

I was actually able to reach that pretty well too.

我脚踩得还不错，就直接伸过去够那个小捏点。

I, like, had some decent foot, and I just, like, reached way over to this crimp.

哦，我明白你说的了。

Oh, I could see that.

对。

Yeah.

通常你得双脚换位，然后跨过去。

Because normally, you, like, match your feet and you have to, like, step over.

但如果你身体够得够远，直接抓到那个点，应该也行。

But if you just lean far enough and grab the hold, I guess that would be okay.

是的。

Yeah.

没错。

Exactly.

而且我平时在健身房爬，看到20毫米的捏点就直接上了。

And then, like, with a gym climbing background, I'm like, 20 millimeter crimp.

上吧。

Let's go.

对。

Yeah.

没错。

Yeah.

完全没错。

Totally.

你得用

You're gonna

单手抓着这块岩壁上的边缘。

one arm this edge on the slab.

对。

Yeah.

在倾斜板上练的时候，就得这么处理，宝贝。

That's you treat it on the kilter board, baby.

没错。

Yeah.

就是这样。

Exactly.

然后就直接翻上去。

And then just, like, mantle it.

你实际上是踩在上面的。

You're, like, standing on it.

不过我慢慢来的时候，其实也没那么难。

But, yeah, like, it it was not too bad when I took my time on it.

后来我回去过几次，一次都没摔过。

And then I've gone back there a couple times, and I've, like, never fell.

但有时候就是没法完全复现我当初的那套动作。

But for some I, like, wasn't able to, like, totally recreate my beta some of those times.

有一次，我干脆直接踩着信用卡当支点，独自攀爬上去。

Like, one time I ended up just standing up on the credit card, like, leader up soloing.

对。

Yeah.

之后那种感觉真的很棒。

So after that, that felt pretty good.

我特别兴奋终于过了那个关键的斜面，接着就开始做几段短距离的固定保护。

I was, like, psyched to get through the crux slab, and then I started doing some short fixing after that.

不过我们还是走得挺慢的，后来我就往回爬到心点。

But we were still moving, like, pretty slow somewhat, and I, like, down climbed to heart.

我正往心点往下爬的时候，看见有个人在从心点右侧往左侧拉一条绳索。

And I was, like, down climbing to Hart, and there's, like, some dude setting up this line, like, from the right side of Hart to, like, the left side.

我当时就想，这是在干嘛？

And I was like, what's going on?

就是有个男人在那里忙活。

There's, like, this dude.

他说，那个岩架上有个变装皇后。

He's like, there's a drag queen on that ledge.

我当时就说，啥？

And I was like, what?

他说，我们在挂一面跨性别旗帜。

And he was like, we're putting up a trans flag.

你看到那面跨性别旗帜了吗？

It was like, did you see that trans flag thing?

我看过有关这件事的报道。

I I read something about that.

对。

Yeah.

那就是我成功冲顶的那天。

That was the day of my flash go and

哦，是这样。

there's like Okay.

所以你们爬山的时候，他们正在哈特岩壁上挂一面巨大的旗帜？

So they were like rigging a giant flag across Hart while you were climbing through?

对。

Yeah.

我那时候还从上面爬下来到了哈特岩壁。

And I also had, like, down climbed to Hart.

然后我和斯图尔特·哈特碰头，我们俩就在想，要不要当天就冲一把？

And then, like, I got there with Stuart Hart, and we were like, oh, like, should we go for it in a day?

我当时真不知道该怎么办。

Like, I don't know what to do.

结果我们到了那儿，发现那边正搞个乱七八糟的集市。

And, yeah, we, like, got there, and there was kind of a junk show going on.

接着我们看了看那些早就该在那儿放两天的补给包。

And then we were, like, looking at our haul bags that had been left there for, like, supposed to be, like, two days.

但我们登顶鼻径后，休息了四天，然后

But then after we did the nose and took four rest days, it

是的。

Yeah.

然后休息了。

And rested.

是的。

Yeah.

已经有一阵子了。

It's been a been a while.

我那儿有些过期的奶酪，还有椰子水，结果都发酵成酒了。

I had, like, some cheese that was expired and some coconut water that ended up turning into alcohol, basically, because it, like, fermented.

我当时就想，天啊。

And I was like, god.

我真的不确定我们能不能在三天内完成。

Like, I don't even know if we can do this in three days.

我们的热量摄入几乎耗尽了，而且根本没多少水。

Like, a lot of our calories are gone, and we, like, straight up don't have enough water.

一加仑椰子水，居然发酵了。

Like, a gallon of coconut water, like, fermented.

幸运的是，它装在一个可伸缩的塑料容器里，所以能膨胀，没炸开。

And luckily, it was in this, like, expandable, like, plastic blubber so it could, like, expand and not break.

但我一打开，那味道简直臭到爆。

But, like, I opened it, and it was, like, the worst smell ever.

我心想，天哪。

And I was like, goddamn.

这到底怎么回事？

Like, what is going on?

我们到底在搞什么？

What are we doing?

回想起那一刻，我就知道，这将是决定性的时刻。

You know, looking at that moment, I was like, that's gonna be the decision moment.

真的挺让人压力山大的。

Like, that's pretty stressful.

到了那儿之后，我们得把一切都理清楚。

And then we got there, and we had to, like, figure it all out.

我们俩都想着，我觉得一天内能搞定。

And then we were just both like, I think we I can do this in a day.

干脆直接上吧，别犹豫了。

Like, let's just do it and go for it.

于是我们把所有不必要的东西都放进运输袋，只带了必需品，比如额外的零食。

And so we just threw everything unnecessary in the haul bag, took everything necessary, like the extra snacks with us.

从那儿开始，我们很快就到了‘怪物岩’。

And then from there, we, like, got pretty quick to the Monster.

我从‘空心薄片’的顶端直接短绳固定到‘怪物岩’的底部，没错。

Like I short fixed from the top of the Hollow Flake to the base of the Monster Yep.

因为阳光照在上面，我一眼就看到了。

Really quickly because I was like saw it in the sun.

我当时就想，可别让岩面太热了。

And I'm like, oh, I don't want it to warm up too much.

我其实不太擅长无保护攀爬。

Like, I'm not that good at off with climbing.

是的。

Yeah.

我到那儿之后，发现怪物岩段也没那么难。

I got there and the Monster didn't feel too bad.

挺轻松的。

It was pretty chill.

所以这真是太好了。

And so that was really great.

然后我们就到了那个壁龛。

And, yeah, we, like, got to the alcove.

到了之后，看到有两个家伙正在尝试攀登金门路线，后来他们改去爬怪物岩段了。

Then we got there and there were these two guys there trying to climb Golden Gate, and they went down to do the Monster.

他们带了些什么东西，叫什么来着？

And they had these, like, g what is it?

就是那种充气式的临时平台？

The g seven inflatable porta ledges?

对。

Yeah.

没错。

Yeah.

是的。

Yeah.

那些小的充气垫子。

Those little air mattresses.

他们带了那些，说你想睡的话可以直接躺在上面。

They had those and they're like, you can just sleep on them if you want.

我当时就想，哦，这下好了。

And I was like, oh, that's 6.

你之所以能睡六个小时，是因为有人给你留了张床。

That's how you took a six hour nap because somebody left you a bed.

你心里想，行吧。

You're like, alright.

我们就用这个了。

We'll use that.

没错。

Exactly.

有人给我们留了个G7。

Someone left us a g seven.

是的。

Yeah.

我们就在那儿等着，等那个岩壁问题能晒到太阳。

And we were like, just waiting for the boulder problem to get in the sun.

我们花了八个小时才到那个凹处，第一次去那儿，这速度其实还不算差。

Like, we got to the alcove in eight hours, which like isn't too terrible for the first time ever being up there.

是的。

Yeah.

而且这是第一次，

And for the first time,

那挺好的。

that that's great.

我们本来想等岩壁问题完全进入阴影后再行动。

Wanted to wait for the boulder problem to fully go in the shade.

所以我们就待在壁龛里休息，

So we just like chilled at the alcove and

那你们是打算在完全天黑后完成整个顶部路段？

So then you were planning on doing the whole top in the dark basically?

差不多吧。

Pretty much.

我本来希望能在天黑前到达终点角，但没实现。

I kind of had the hope of getting to the Enduro Corner in the light, but that did not happen.

是的。

Yeah.

没错，就是这样。

That's that's Yeah.

这根本不可能发生。

That's never gonna happen.

如果你打算挑战这个抱石路线

If you're trying to do the The boulder problem

趁着日落时分。

with sunset.

对。

Yeah.

我还在想，那次历史上首次在一天内完成自由攀登者路线的首攀，居然是因为大岩壁计划太糟糕了——装备坏了，食物过期了，完全不知道该怎么办，最后只好一咬牙，直接冲顶。

I'm I'm still hung up on the fact that basically this historic first flash of the freerider in a day happened because of basically poor big wall planning where your bags are shot, your food's expired, you don't know what to do and you're like, screw it, let's just go to the top.

我觉得挺讽刺的，平时在新闻里看到这种事，总会觉得：哇，真厉害。

I was sorta like, funny because in the news you read about that type of stuff and you're like, Oh, that's badass.

肯定是有周密计划的人才能做到吧。

Like that person must have had a plan.

现在听他们这么说，我觉得这根本算不上什么计划。

And now hearing about it, I'm like, that's not a fricking plan.

这纯粹就是瞎猫碰上死耗子，结果倒还挺好。

That's just like a total botch that worked out great.

是的。

Yeah.

我的意思是，之前我其实更倾向于一天内完成，因为我觉得……

I mean, I think beforehand I honestly was leaning towards doing it in a day because I think

对。

Yeah.

显然，那才是大家的梦想。

Obviously, that's the dream.

毕竟，那样才更酷。

I mean, because that's way cooler.

那才是我们追求的目标。

It's like, that's the aspiration.

我不确定。

I don't know.

说实话，这感觉挺奇怪的，因为我觉得有时候压力小一点，我反而表现得更好。

It's honestly, like, weird because I feel like sometimes I perform better under lower pressure.

我本来以为，如果一天内完成，压力会更小，因为就算没在一天内搞定，但最后还是完成了——比如第二次尝试这个抱石难题，或者一天内登顶酋长岩，那也无所谓。

And I thought that if I was going for it in a day, it would actually be lower pressure because if I failed to do it in a day flash, but I still did it, like, whatever, second go at the boulder problem and sent El Cap ground up in a day, like

那也很厉害。

That's still sick.

是的。

Yeah.

太棒了。

That's amazing.

但要是我三天都没搞定，最后只是第八百万个花三天时间自由攀登《自由骑手》的人，那我肯定会想：天啊，谁在乎啊？

But if I, like, didn't do it, if I didn't flash over three days and then I was just, the eight hundred millionth person to free climb freerider and over a three day period, I'd be like, god, like, who cares?

你懂的。

You know?

所以在我心里，其实觉得一天内完成压力会小一点，说实话，我有时候在压力小的时候表现得更好。

So it was kinda like in my head, like, yeah, it would be lower pressure to do it in a day, and honestly, I sometimes perform better under lower pressure.

这挺有意思的。

That's interesting.

你这种想法还挺特别的。

That's a that's a funny way to think about it.

但不管是哪种方式，都有不好的地方。

But then there's like bad parts to both sides.

要是我花了三天才完成，结果感觉特别轻松，我肯定会想：我这是在干嘛？

It's like, God, like if I went for it in three days and it felt super easy, I'd be like, what am I doing?

或者要是我一天就完成了，但回头一想，其实三天也能轻松搞定，我也会问自己：我这是在干嘛？

Or if I had went for it in a day and I was like, God, I easily could have done that in three days, it'd be like, what am I doing?

所以……

So

我的意思是，总的来说，你大概总是会下意识选择RATR的方式。

I mean, it I think in in general, you just always default to the RATR thing.

你懂的。

You know?

你心里其实会想，既然能选更酷的方式，干嘛不选呢？

You're kinda like, well, like, why not do it the cool way if you can?

是的。

Yeah.

这确实很难决定，毕竟在酋长岩的线路上，好的速攀机会没几个。

I mean, this was a hard decision because, like, you don't have that many good flash goes at El Cap routes.

对。

Yeah.

没错。

Yeah.

总的来说，在自由骑手这条线上做决定真的很纠结，你知道的。

I mean, overall, was just a hard decision, you know, on Free Rider.

这几乎是酋长岩上最简单、最显而易见的速攀路线了。

It's, like, the easiest, most obvious El Cap flash route.

埃尔卡普山从来没人一天内完成过速攀。

Like, El Cap hasn't been flashed in a day.

历史上只有巴比西一个人纯粹地速攀成功过一次。

It's only ever been flashed purely one time by Babsy.

这确实是个艰难的决定，毕竟你只有一次速攀机会。

And, yeah, it was just definitely a hard decision because you only get one flash go.

你刚开始爬博拉路线时是什么感觉？

What'd it feel like when you start the Bola prom?

广告后我们继续带来更多内容。

We'll be back with more after the break.

你平时会用咖啡因来帮助度过漫长的一天吗？

Do you ever use caffeine as one of the things to get you through big days?

我从没特意去摄取咖啡因，但偶尔会在能量胶、运动凝胶或者一些运动补剂里碰到，我并不排斥它。

I have never really intentionally sought out caffeine necessarily, but, you know, I occasionally have it in in gels and goos and random sports products, and I'm definitely not opposed to it.

我知道它确实有帮助。

I mean, I know it helps.

是的。

Mhmm.

对。

Yeah.

LMNT推出了一款新口味：柠檬冰茶。

LMNT's got a new flavor, lemonade iced tea.

里面加了黑茶提取物。

It's got black tea extract.

好处是，这种咖啡因更接近茶叶本身的释放方式。

The benefit is that that caffeine is more like how it is in a tea plant.

它和L-茶氨酸、多酚结合在一起，让人感觉更平稳。

It's bundled with L theanine and polyphenol, so it creates a steadier feeling.

不会像那些能量胶里突然冲上来的强烈咖啡因那样刺激。

It's not just like that crazy caffeine hit that you sometimes get out of gels.

我最近在岩壁上喝过LMNT的柠檬冰茶，味道不错，确实不错。

Actually, I have been drinking the the LMNT lemonade iced tea at the Crag and tastes good and I Mhmm.

说白了，当你在赶项目的时候，就默认咖啡因能帮上忙。

Basically, assume that caffeine must help when you're trying to send your project.

但其实运动科学里有很多证据表明，只要别过量，咖啡因确实能提升表现。

But I mean, there is a lot of evidence in in sort of sports science that caffeine helps performance as long as you don't overdo it.

所以运动时喝点咖啡因，根本没什么坏处。

And so there's really no harm in in having caffeine, you know, during exercise.

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That's drinklmnt.com/climbinggold.

当了父母之后，你肯定懂那种打开冰箱，愣在那里想：今天到底给家人，或者自己吃点啥？

As a parent, you know that feeling of, like, opening up the fridge and be like, what the hell am I gonna feed my family or myself for that matter?

好在我们家小孩根本没什么食欲，所以随便弄点就行。

Thankfully, our our infants just don't eat anyway, so you're kinda like, whatever.

对。

Yeah.

如果能一辈子都不用吃饭，我绝对愿意。

If I could just skip eating for the rest of my life, I definitely would.

那就试试Factor餐吧。

Enter Factor meals.

这是一种更聪明的吃饭方式，有厨师精心准备、营养师认证的美味餐食，直接送到你家门口。

It's like a good way to eat smarter with tasty chef prep meals that are dietitian approved and delivered right to the door.

这正是我理想中该有的生活。

That's exactly what I want in the world.

一天当中有些时候，我特别容易随便吃点零食，其实吃一顿营养均衡的正餐更好，但说实话，我根本没空给自己做饭。

You know, I think there are certain times of the day where I'm just much more likely to randomly eat snacks, and I'm probably better off eating a well balanced meal, but I'm just realistically not gonna cook one for myself.

所以我觉得，Factor最大的好处就是能帮我撑到中午，不偏离计划。

And so I think that that's where where factors can really come in is is helping me sort of stick to the plan in the middle of the day.

没错。

Yeah.

Factor每周提供一百种轮换餐品，每天都有新口味可期待。

Factor has 100 rotating weekly meals, so there's always something new to look forward to.

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See the website for more details.

你刚开始挑战布罗德岩壁时是什么感觉？

What did it feel like when you start the Boulder Prom?

那真是最棒的时刻。

That was, like, the greatest moment.

是的。

Yeah.

睡了六个小时后，我们直接上墙，到了抱石路线的起点，那一刻我就在那儿了。

So after our six hour nap, we, like, headed up the wall, got to the base of the boulder problem, and then I was, like, there.

Stu就说，行了。

And Stu was, alright.

不管怎样，这都太爽了。

Like, it's gonna be sick either way.

你居然一天内就要从底部直接攻下这条路线。

Like, you're gonna do a ground up in a day.

唯一的问题就是你能不能一次成功。

The only question is whether you flash.

我把手机留在了斯图待着的那块岩架上。

And then I, like, left my phone on this ledge, like, where Stu was.

我觉得手机太重了。

I'm like, the phone is too heavy.

我就把它搁在岩架上，把音乐开到最大声。

Like, I'm putting it on the ledge, like, playing music at max volume.

他说，那手机就那么放在岩架上。

And he was like, that's just there on this ledge.

是啊。

I'm like, yeah.

等你爬完能顺手把它拿回来吗？

Can you grab it after the fact?

他就说，行吧。

He's like, alright.

当然可以。

Sure.

希望别掉下去了。

Hopefully, it doesn't fall off.

我们就把手机留在那儿放着音乐。

And we, like, left it there playing music.

然后我爬到了难点的底部。

And, yeah, I, like, got up to the base of the crux.

我基本上绕过了第一个难点，直接够到左边高处的杆子和岩壁上的那个凸起。

I was kinda able to skip that first crux pretty well by just, like, reaching to the high left side pole and that, like, knob on the face.

是的。

Yeah.

太典型了。

Classic.

哥们儿，个子高在酋长岩上真的优势太大了。

Dude, being a tall man really makes a difference on El Cap.

在自由骑手线路上确实很明显。

It really did on Free Rider.

没错。

Yeah.

然后呢，嗯，就是这样。

Like and then, like Uh-huh.

就连那个抱石路线本身也是，

On the boulder problem itself too, like

哥们儿，想想Babsy吧。

Dude, think about freaking Babsy.

她肯定比你矮了一脚多。

She's like a foot smaller than you for sure.

是啊。

Yeah.

天哪。

Oh my god.

她爬这个抱石路线简直太疯狂了。

Her doing the boulder problem looks so insane.

她使出空翻踢腿的时候，居然松开了下方的握点。

She, like, let go of the undercling as she stuck the karate kick.

我当时就想，什么？

I was like, what?

这根本不可能发生啊。

That is not supposed to happen.

我觉得他们根本没怎么看路线分析视频，毕竟雅卡波都没注意到那个下方握点。

And I think they, like, didn't watch very many beta videos because, I mean, Yakapo, like, didn't see the Undercling.

但我可是看了超多路线分析视频。

But I had, like, watched so many beta videos.

我手机里有个专门叫‘酋长岩’的文件夹，里面全是Free Rider的路线分析视频。

I had a folder on my phone called El Cap, and I had all the freerider beta videos.

我当时一边等苏用上升器上来，一边看这些视频。

And I was, like, watching them while I was waiting for Sue to Jumar.

不过说真的，我们一开始放了音乐，然后我就往上爬，到了鳄鱼爪下方的起点。

But, yeah, basically, like, we started playing music, and then I, like, head up that pitch, got to the base of the crocs.

我试着去够那个第一处捏点，但感觉怪怪的，不太敢用力。

I, like, kinda tried to reach for that one, like, first crimp, but, like, it felt weird and hard to commit.

所以我就退下来，回到那个舒服的休息点。

So I, like, came back down to that, like, good rest.

后来我纯粹靠着左边那个模糊的脚点，就轻松够到了那个点。

And then, basically, I was, like, able to reach it pretty well off of just that, like, left round smear.

所以我不用非得把右脚用力踩实，也能够到第一个捏点。

So, like, I didn't really have to, like, commit to, like, standing up on the right foot as much to, like, get to that first crimp.

然后我抓稳了，把脚踩上去，顺利挂上了旁边那个快挂。

But then I, like, got that, got my feet up, and, like, clipped that bolt that's right there.

接下来最没把握的是，我本想直接往上跳，但那感觉不太对劲。

And then the most insecure part is I was, like, ready to, like, bump, but that felt weird.

于是我重新调整了右手的握点，然后全力一跃。

And so I, like, readjusted the right hand crimp and then, like, really went out and bumped.

我撞上去的时候，身体还微微向后仰着。

And I was, like, kinda falling away from the wall, like, as I hit it.

结果我稳住了，简直不敢相信。

And then I, like, stuck it, and I was like, oh, no way.

接着我把脚踩上去，进了那个面包状的支点，接下来的空翻动作对我来说特别轻松，根本不用怎么发力。

And then, like, got my feet in, like, got into the bread loaf hold, and then the karate kick for me felt, like, super chill because I could just, like like, I didn't even really have to kick.

我就随便一抬脚就过去了。

I just like Yeah.

你直接跨过去了。

You just stepped over.

对。

Yeah.

然后我伸手够过去，做了个撑起动作。

But then I like reached over and mantled.

在那段攀爬之前，我们就说好了，行了。

And I remember before that pitch, we were like, alright.

前面还有很多艰难的路段。

There's a lot of hard climbing ahead.

就算完成了也没必要庆祝。

Like, no need to celebrate if we do this.

后面还有更多呢。

Like, there's so much more.

刚从保龄球状岩点上到顶部时，我扯着嗓子大喊，兴奋得不行。

But right when I like got up on top of that thing right after the bowler, I was just screaming at the top of my lungs, like, so psyched.

Stu在下方保护点也跟着喊，我朋友在谷底用望远镜看着，我也听见他在喊。

And Stu was screaming at the belay, and my friend was, like, watching from the valley with binoculars, and I could hear him screaming.

到了保护点后，我假装短暂停留，结果Stu直接接住了我那个在观战的朋友。

And then, like, I got to the belay, like, short faked Stu, like, caught my friend who was watching.

他冲我喊：兄弟，你真成了！

He's like, dude, did it.

你那个空踢腿看起来根本没多远。

The karate kick didn't even look that far for you.

是的。

Yeah.

之后我们就觉得，行了。

After that, we were like, okay.

从那以后，我们有更多路要走，我最后通宵爬过了末日转角和圆桌区。

Now we have a lot more, and I ended up climbing through the Enduro Corner and the round table through the night.

那时候你有感到压力吗？

Did you feel any pressure at that point?

我的意思是，一旦你完成了最难的部分，要么就觉得，太棒了，剩下的就是轻松登顶。

I mean, you know, like once you do the hard part, you're either like, this is great.

要么就担心，天啊，现在可不能在这段看似简单的黑暗路段出岔子，毕竟还是有点棘手的。

I'm just cruising to the top or you're like, oh god, now I better not botch any of this easy stuff in the dark when you're like onsiding like because it's still like kinda tricky.

从那儿到顶峰，绝对不轻松。

It's like definitely not easy from there to the top.

没有。

No.

其实有点棘手，我觉得从那里到顶峰最困难的就是Enduro角的第一段攀爬。

Like, it was a little tricky, and I think, like, the closest moment from there to the top was, like, the first pitch of the Enduro corner.

对啊。

Like Yeah.

简直太难了。

It's heinous.

我当时没把头灯调到最亮档。

It was, like, I didn't have my headlamp on full blast.

头灯有三档亮度，我每次爬完一段就会调到最低档，休息时省电。

Like, there's three settings of it, I would always climb a pitch and then, like, turn it off to my lowest setting when I'm just hanging at the blade to not, like, waste battery.

但开始爬下一段时，我忘了把灯调回最亮档。

But then I forgot to turn it up to the highest setting when I started climbing.

我当时心想，糟了。

So I was like, god.

我觉得我根本看不清东西。

I feel like I'm not seeing anything that well.

我的脚到底在哪儿？

Like, where are my feet?

我当时在一个特别奇怪的三维角落里。

And I was like in this weird three-dimensional corner.

我心想：这到底发生啥了？

And I was like, what is happening right now?

那种感觉特别怪异。

And that just felt super weird.

有些坡度特别大的锁点，我在想：真有人会用这种地方做支点吗？

There were like some like really slopey locks that I was like, are people like locking on this?

这完全说不通。

Like, this doesn't make any sense.

那时候是半夜了吗？

And so was it was it like the middle of the night yet?

是的。

Yeah.

我们遇到了一群人在开派对，就跟他们说了我们在做什么。

We saw this party, and they we, like, told them what we were doing.

他们说：‘哎，我们给你们拿点零食吧。’

They were, oh, we'll give you snacks and stuff.

然后我们就坐在那个台子上休息了一会儿，Stu说：‘好了。’

And and then we, like, chilled on that ledge for a bit, and Stu was, alright.

‘走吧，兄弟。’

Like, let's go, dude.

‘咱们继续爬吧。’

Like, let's just keep climbing.

我说：‘兄弟，我真的不想再爬了。’

I was, dude, don't wanna keep climbing.

‘我想睡个觉，兄弟。’

I wanna nap, dude.

我想再睡一觉。

I wanna take another nap.

我不想从这儿功亏一篑。

I don't wanna blow it from here.

Stu说，下一代人会拿走你的Flash Speed Rector。

And Stu's like, the next generation's gonna, like, take your Flash Speed Rector.

我说，我不在乎，只要我一天内搞定就行。

And I'm like, I don't care as long as I do it in a day.

谁管那么多啊？

Like, who cares?

于是我们又睡了一个半小时，就在六小时的壁龛小憩之后。

So then we, like, napped for, like, another hour and a half after our six hour alcove nap.

哥们，你半夜在圆桌上睡着了？

Dude, you napped on the round table in the middle of the night.

我要是敢那么睡，肯定醒不来，等到早上才发现，本来一天完成的自由攀登，硬是拖成了两天，就因为莫名其妙睡了一觉。

I'd be afraid to do that because you just wouldn't wake up until morning and then be like, oh, my freerider in a day turned into a freerider over two days because I freaking slept randomly.

我肯定会说，这事儿搞砸了。

I'd be like, what a botch.

你得设个闹钟。

You have to set an alarm.

不用。

No.

我们那时候，说实话，也不太清楚。

We had, like I don't know.

有人醒着呢。

Someone was awake.

我们知道外面在发生什么。

We we knew what was going on.

我们当时就在那儿放松，睡了个觉，吃了点东西，玩了会儿手机游戏，然后才开始往上爬。

We were but, yeah, I, like, chilled there, took a nap, ate some food, played some games on my phone, and then we, like, started climbing up.

而且，要进那个斯科蒂区域还真有点难。

And, yeah, like, getting getting into the Scottie was kinda hard.

那里有个十一指宽的裂缝，感觉特别奇怪。

There was, like, that eleven d finger crack that, like, felt

对。

Yeah.

对我来说特别别扭。

Super weird to me.

然后，要进Scottie本身也挺难的。

And then, like, entering the Scottie itself was kinda hard.

但那之后就顺多了，除了顶部那个五九烟囱段。

But then after that, it was pretty smooth sailing except for that five nine chimney at the top.

我跟Stu聊了聊，他说：这可是我这条线里唯一没爬过的岩段。

So I talked to Stu, and he was like, oh, this is the only pitch on the route I haven't done.

我都不知道该从哪边进。

Like, I don't know which side to go in.

我当时就想：糟了。

And I was like, oh, fuck.

然后我一开始往左边走，结果发现这根本没法过。

And then, like, I think I went left side in to start off with, and then I was like, this is impossible.

明白了。

Okay.

我爬下来，又试了试往上爬，结果还是发现这烟囱太窄，根本挤不进去。

I down climbed, and then I went like or I was like, I kinda get up there, and I was like, I can't fit through this chimney.

我真的不知道该怎么办了。

Like, I don't know what to do.

然后我又爬下来，改从右边尝试。

And then, like, I down climbed, and then I went right side in.

好吧。

And then I was like, okay.

可这烟囱我还是挤不进去。

I still can't fit through this chimney.

我不明白是哪里出了问题，是不是我体型太大了？反正就是怎么都塞不进去。

Like, I don't know what I'm doing wrong or, like, if I'm too big, like, I still feel like I don't fit.

于是我往下爬。

So then I down climb.

我想，我左右两边都试过了。

I'm like, man, I've tried both left and right.

那我该怎么办？

Like, what do I do?

后来我仔细看了看，发现下面有脚印，干脆就靠着烟囱外侧做反向支撑，整个人完全反撑着爬到了顶。

And then I ended up, like, looking at it and, like, I saw some feet outright, so I ended up just laybacking the outside of the chimney, just fully layback to the top.

对。

Yeah.

我用的是混合方法。

I I do a combo.

我一半身子在烟囱里，脚却踩在左边的岩壁上，身体往后仰着。

I'm I'm half in the chimney, but I'm, like, lie backing the outside with my feet out on the left wall and stuff.

对。

Yeah.

我是说，最后我完全是贴着外侧倒挂上去的，根本没进烟囱里。

I mean, I ended up just fully lay backing it, like, not in the chimney at all.

对。

Yeah.

那一下真够刺激的。

That was kind of intense.

要进入倒挂姿势挺难的，可一旦挂上去，反而特别轻松。

It was it was a hard move to get into the layback, but once I was in it, it felt super easy.

不过快到顶的时候挺搞笑的，明明已经两次往下爬了，结果离 summit 就差一绳距。

But that was kinda funny at the top, like, down climbing this thing twice and being like, got him one pitch from the Summit.

我到底该咋办？

Like, what do I do?

但等我们终于登顶，那种感觉简直太棒了。

But once we topped out, it was, like, so incredible.

这可是我梦寐以求很久的目标。

I mean, it was a goal that I had been dreaming of for a long time.

我高三快毕业那会儿跟我爸去了那儿，结果那年酋长岩特别湿，我们根本没打算爬。

Like, I went there with my dad at the end of senior year of high school, and it ended up being that season where El Cap was super wet, so we didn't even try.

现在想想真好，我们没去试，因为那时候我根本不懂什么叫拖拽，还以为我爸带两三天的补给，用上升器就能搞定，那肯定得乱套。

And it was probably great that we didn't try because I didn't know what hauling was, and we kinda just had the plan for him to Jumar with, like, two or three days worth of stuff, which that would have been a total disaster.

不过我们那趟旅行还是特别棒。

And, I mean, we ended up having a great trip.

我们爬了AstroMan，我在现场临时改了路线，用西蒂的方案，两天就完成了。

We did AstroMan, and I on-site had Westy faced that trip, and we did that over two days.

玩得特别开心，但真庆幸我没去爬自由骑手。

And it was super fun, but definitely glad I didn't get on free rider.

下一次我本来计划挑战大岩壁，但我从来没爬过大岩壁。

And then the next trip, I was planning to big wall it, but I had never big walled.

结果朋友后来兴趣没那么高了。

The friend ended up being, like, less psyched.

等我终于找到愿意一起去的人，天气已经热得没法再爬蓝闪了。

And then by the time I found someone who was psyched to go up it, it was, like, too hot to justify Blue Blow the Flash.

但后来，我爬那年的季节真的特别棒。

But then, yeah, the season when I did it, it was great.

你居然一直等着这一天，心里也老惦记着，结果一切居然都刚好凑到了一块儿，真不错。

That's cool that you'd been saving it for so long or that, you know, you'd kind of been thinking about it, but but it all sort of worked.

没错。

Yeah.

现在回想起来真有点傻，我老往峡谷跑，干了这么多别的事，就是没去自由攀登酋长岩。

It seems super silly because I kept going to the valley and, like, just doing a bunch of random stuff and not free climbing El Cap.

那会儿明明就在那儿，结果还是没去尝试。

Cause I was like, there that season, and then I ended up not going for it.

所以我自由攀登了‘湿酒噩梦’，还有菲夫背脊上好几条路线。

So I like free climb, Wet Liquor Nightmare, and a bunch of stuff on Pheefe Buttress.

第一年我爬了天文人和韦斯特脸，这两条路线都特别棒。

And like the first season, did Astroman and Westy Face, which those are really cool.

韦斯特脸简直太棒了。

I mean, Westy Face was so good.

但这么说其实挺有道理的，毕竟如果你没在谷里爬过很多其他路线，想一天内自由攀登酋长岩确实很难。

But that's kind of a I mean, that's kind of the smarter way to do it in a way though because it's hard to free climb El Cap in a day if you haven't climbed a bunch of other things in the valley.

所以先把这些路线都爬一遍，等你真到酋长岩上时，就不会惊呼：天啊，这岩壁怎么这么滑。

So it's like, kinda makes sense to free all these other routes so that then when you're up on El Cap, you're not like, oh my god, it's so slippery.

如果你从来没来过优胜美地，直接冲上去就想一天内登顶，那感觉简直疯狂。

And like like, I you mean, if you haven't been to Yosemite at all and you just go up there in a day trying to send, it feels so it'd feel crazy.

你会忍不住想：这地方怎么跟别的地方完全不一样？

You know, you'd be like, why is this so different?

是的。

Yeah.

对。

Yeah.

不是的。

No.

那真的是最令人难忘的时刻之一。

I mean, that was like one of the most incredible moments.

我其实一直盼着这一刻，等了好久。

And I mean, I had been saving that moment for so long.

当然，我之前想过很多种可能的发展方式，结果却完美得超乎想象。

And yeah, I had so many decisions of, like, how this could go down, and it just ended up working out in the most perfect of ways.

当你在凌晨三点，经过二十二个小时的连续攀登终于登顶酋长岩时，那种感觉是不是特别震撼？

And when you top El Cap at three in the morning after a twenty two hour push or whatever, is it an incredible thing?

还是说你只觉得累得要死，满脑子想的都是怎么下山？

Or are just like, I'm tired, and how do we find the descent?

你心里可能就在想，这山到底怎么下去啊？

You know, you're sort of like, oh, like, how do we get off this mountain?

是的。

Yeah.

不是。

No.

其实两种感觉都有。

It was definitely a bit of both.

我给爸妈打了电话，他们特别兴奋。

Like, I mean, I called my parents and they were like super psyched on it.

是的。

Yeah.

对。

Yeah.

你爸妈一直支持你攀岩吗？

Have your parents always been supportive of your climbing?

是的。

Yeah.

他们一直支持。

They have.

是的。

Yeah.

我爸爸甚至在优胜美地跟着我一起爬，他也爱上了这项运动。

I mean, dad, like, Jumard up behind me in Yosemite, and he got into it with me.

不过呢。

But yeah.

我的父母当然希望我能大学毕业，找份正经工作。

Mean, they definitely want me to, like, graduate college and get a real job.

所以。

So

在你之前，他们自己爬过吗？还是根本不懂攀岩，只是支持你？

Were were they climbers at all before you, or or they didn't know anything about it and they just support your climbing?

我觉得，我爸爸比妈妈更懂一些。

I think, I mean, my dad knows more than my mom.

我们一开始是在那个陡峭的抱石馆一起开始爬的。

Like, we started climbing at the steep rock bouldering gym together.

后来我们总是一起爬，刚开始还挺较劲的，但我慢慢比他爬得好了点。

And, yeah, we would always climb together and we were, like, pretty competitive at the start and I, like, started getting slightly better than him.

但他总能找到一些我够不着、他却能爬上去的难点。

And but he would always find some dino in the gym that he could reach and I couldn't.

现在你长得这么高，他可吃瘪了。

Jokes on him now that you're super tall.

你就是，没错。

You're like, Yeah.

我们以前经常一起爬，后来在我高三快毕业时，我提议一起去优胜美地，他特别兴奋，还学了不少新东西。

We would like climb together and then, yeah, I like brought up the idea of us going to Yosemite together at the end of my senior year and he was super psyched on it and learned how to do more.

我带他去爬岩壁，因为他又开始回攀岩馆了。

I like took him to the gunk because he started going back to the climbing gym.

所以，我爸爸确实懂这些，也一直很支持我。

So, yeah, my dad knows about it and has been supportive for sure.

我妈妈嘛，嗯。

And my mom, yeah.

我是说，她也支持我。

I mean, she's supportive.

但她自己没爬过，所以对这些其实不太了解。

But, I mean, she just hasn't climbed, so she doesn't really know.

但他们以前都不爬山。

But they weren't climbers before me.

我大概十岁的时候，我们才开始接触这项运动。

We got into it when I was, like, 10.

现在确实有很多非常厉害的年轻攀岩者。

There are obviously a lot of incredibly strong young climbers right now.

但真正年纪很小、实力超强，同时还想挑战传统攀登、危险路线或者大岩壁的人，少得多。

But there are far fewer incredibly young strong climbers who also have this, like, desire to trad climb or to do dangerous routes or to climb big walls.

这类人数量确实少很多。

Like, that number is a lot lower.

你觉得这是为什么？

Why do you think that is?

是啊。

Yeah.

说不好。

Don't know.

这是个好问题。

It's a good question.

挺有意思的，因为通常大家都觉得得先打基础，花时间练习，慢慢在岩壁上积累技术。

It's interesting because I think the conventional wisdom is sort of that you have to build a base, you have to put in the time, you have to to build technique on the walls.

说白了，就得一步步练上去。

Basically, you have to practice and build up to it.

但某种程度上，威尔其实是在挑战这种看法。

But in some ways, Will's kind of challenging that.

不过话说回来，他确实花了很多时间做传统攀登。

Though, I mean, to be fair, he has spent a lot of time trad climbing.

他只是用了一种和谷里大多数人不一样的方式打下了基础。

He's basically just built up his base in a slightly different way than than most people do in the valley.

他就是一个很好的例子，说明只要你力量足够，就能弥补很多策略上的不足之类的问题。

And he's he's just a good example that when you have enough strength, you can get by, like, you could overcome a lot of other like strategy errors and things like that.

说白了，只要你热情高涨、体能够强，很多东西都能补回来。

You know, it's like basically, if you're psyched and you're strong, you can you can make up for a lot.

是的。

Yeah.

你觉得Will的心理状态也有什么特别之处吗？

Do you think that there is something that is that's special about Will's headspace though too?

你接触过那么多顶尖攀岩者，对吧？

Like, you've been in around a lot of great climbers.

他的大胆和自信，在精英群体里也特别突出吗？

Does his sort of boldness or confidence stand out even amongst the elite?

我觉得他的自信是有根据的，因为他确实有那个实力，能爬得了这些路线。

Well, I think his confidence is well founded because he is actually that strong and he can climb all these roots.

所以，他这么大胆其实很合理，因为他实际上就是在那个水平上攀爬。

So, I mean, I think it makes sense that he's relatively bold because it seems like he is, in fact, climbing at that level.

我没亲自和他一起爬过，所以没亲眼见过他攀岩的样子。

I mean, I haven't climbed with him personally, so I haven't gotten to to, like, watch him climb something.

因此，我不确定他是不是有时候会冒风险。

So I don't know if, you know, he's sketchy or something.

但根据他爬过的那些路线来看，他确实有理由自信，毕竟他太强了。

But I mean, judge judging from all the things that he's climbed, like, he just has you know, it's like he should be confident because he's so good.

他完成过那么多高难度的路线。

He's done so many hard things.

你自然会觉得，他在攀爬时应该很有底气。

It's like you would expect that that he would feel good when he's climbing.

是的。

Yeah.

说白了，他在这个年纪进入山谷时的水平，比我当年高了整整一个等级。

I mean, he's basically just, you know, a number grade stronger than I was at at that age coming into the valley.

基本上就是年轻一代、难度高一级，但打开的世界完全不一样。

You know, basically is just like one generation younger, one grade higher, and it just opens totally different doors.

不过，本质上还是差不多的。

But it is kind of the same thing.

我是说，14度的路线，那时候我刚进山谷，能爬13度以上的器械路线就已经觉得特别牛了。

I mean, yeah, 14 Doctor, you're just kinda like, yeah, I mean, I feel like when I was coming into the valley, climbing 13 plus on gear was, like, pretty rad.

你懂的。

You know?

现在呢，如果你能爬14级以上的器械路线，那就完全不一样了。

And now it's like, oh, if you're climbing 14 plus on gear Totally.

但你还是在谷里爬同样的路线。

But then you're trying to climb the same routes in the valley.

显然，如果你能爬高一个难度等级，这些路线对你来说就会简单很多。

Obviously, those routes are gonna be pretty easy if you're if you're climbing a whole number grade harder.

说到古恩斯和你在纽约的家人，我记得你刚崭露头角的时候，就是靠着在古恩斯完成那些高难度路线，比如第一个攀爬了《生命中最棒的东西》那条路线，就是从巨大屋檐直接冲上去的那条——说来也巧，我之前还看过你那个《真实岩壁》的片段，那时候我正好食物中毒，躺在床上动不了。

So so speaking of the gunks and and your family in New York and everything, I mean, I feel like you sort of first appeared on the scene with with your hard roots and the gunks, like doing the first descent of what's called the the best things in life for free, the freaking direct thing out the giant roof, which actually randomly I watched your Real Rock segment on that a while back because I freaking had a I think I had food poisoning or something.

我当时躺在床上，浑身没劲，啥也干不了。

I was, like, in bed, laid up, totally wasted and was just, like, couldn't do anything.

然后就打开了《真实岩壁》App。

And then and pulled up like the Real Rock app.

心想，哦，不错。

Was like, oh, cool.

他们看了这部随机的影片。

They watched this random film.

那是个附加内容，拍的是你爬14级传统攀登的片段，看起来简直不可思议。

It was like a bonus feature thing of like you doing but like 14 trad stuff that like looks insane.

你是怎么从一个纽约市健身房的孩子，几年内就爬上了14级的？

But how do you go from being a New York City gym kid to climbing 14 in the span of a few years.

你的意思是，对吧？

You know I mean?

再说这事儿，说实话，真没几个人能做到这样。

And and ask that, it's like, you know, I mean, nobody else really does that.

这到底是怎么发生的？

Like, how how does that happen?

是啊。

Yeah.

我开始爬传统攀登之后，其实之前就看过萨姆·伊莱亚斯在《Brozone》里的那段视频，讲的是拉uss Clooney的历史什么的。

I mean, once I had started trad climbing I mean, I think a while before I had watched that video of Sam Elias on Brozone, like, the lifer about, like, Russ Clooney history and whatnot.

而且，没错，那让我特别兴奋。

And, yeah, that had me super stoked.

尤其是那些关于萨姆·伊莱亚斯在岩壁上的航拍画面。

Like, all that drone footage of Sam Elias on that buttress.

我当时就觉得，这简直太酷了。

I was like, this looks like the coolest thing ever.

我一直以为纽约附近根本没什么抱石场，确实也没多少。

And I had always had this idea in my head that there's, like, no sport climbing near New York City, which there isn't a lot.

有鲁米尼，但离这儿六个小时车程，太远了。

There's like, Rumney, which is six hours away, but that's pretty far.

但我一直对攀传统路线特别感兴趣，平时就一直在健身房练，后来朋友带我去尝试了一次传统攀岩。

But then I was always psyched on the idea of getting into trad climbing, but I was always gym training, and then my friend got me out trad climbing.

我第一次跟他去攀传统路线，就爬了那个‘Dangler’，就是个从屋檐上往外爬的有趣路线，高风险，典型的5.6难度。

And yeah, my first day out trad climbing with him, I did the dangler, which is this silly thing that climbs out this roof, and high exposure, which is the classic five six.

那天玩得特别开心。

And it was just a super fun day.

从那以后，我就一心想着多去峡谷攀岩。

And ever since then, was like, I just want to get out and climb at the gunks as much as possible.

我特别上瘾，很快就开始领攀，接着挑战Ozone，再慢慢向那条岩壁进发，感觉特别棒。

And I just got super psyched on it, started leading quickly and working ozone soon, and then starting to work my way up to it was good that buttress.

那里的路线变化多端，难度也一个比一个高。

There's so many variations that are harder and harder.

我确实爬了Ozone。

So I like, I did ozone.

我当时就想，太爽了。

I was like, okay, sick.

接下来我想试试Brozone，就是那条直接路线。

Let me try and do brozone, which is the direct.

然后是Friendzone，有抱石段但没有顶棚部分。

And then it was friendzone, which has the boulder problem, but not the roof finish.

之后我就想，行吧。

And then I was like, okay.

《Best Things》才是终极路线，我之前一直用顶绳 solo 练习，慢慢打磨。

Best Things is like the ultimate line, and that was what I was like top rope soloing for a while and working.

那条路线真的太棒了。

And that thing was really cool.

我每次经过那儿都会忍不住想，天啊，这根本不可能完成。

I mean, I would always like kind of wrap by that, and I was like, god, this feels impossible.

但后来突然有一天，我心想，哇，居然真的能行。

And then like eventually, was like, oh, wow.

这事儿其实做得到。

This is like doable.

太厉害了。

It's sick.

这是不是因为你去健身房练得多了，水平提高了？

And is that just a matter of your level rising in the gym?

你是说你爬得越来越硬了，所以打开了新的可能性？还是你觉得其他方面有什么变化？

Like, you're basically just able to climb harder and it opened up new horizons, or what do you think changed?