毒物小队

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准备上线时，使用优惠码 criminal，首年网站或域名立享九折。

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大家好啊。

What's up, y'all?

我是斯凯勒·迪金斯，七届WNBA全明星、奥运金牌得主，也是一位妈妈。

I'm Skyler Diggins, seven time WNBA all star, Olympic gold medalist, and mom.

我是卡西迪·哈伯德，做了近二十年的体育记者和主持人，报道过无数体育界的大人物和重大事件。

And I'm Cassidy Hubbard, host and reporter for nearly twenty years covering the biggest names and stories in sports

还有妈妈。

and mom.

这就是《还有妈妈》，一个为运动员、变革者和各种身份的妈妈们打造的社群，5月14日上线。

And this is and mom, a community for athletes, game changers, and moms of all kinds, dropping May 14.

欢迎加入我们。

Tap in with us.

当时面粉里经常掺入石膏，就是我们用来做墙板的那种材料。

Flower was routinely laced with gypsum, which we use in wallboard.

香料有时候被掺假的比例高达百分之八十到九十。

Spices were sometimes 80 to 90% adulterated.

肉桂里会掺入砖灰。

Brick dust was used in cinnamon.

胡椒里则会混入扫地的灰尘。

Floor sweepings were used in pepper.

一些研磨香料里还掺了磨碎的骨头。

Ground bone was used in some of the other ground spices.

大多数食品历史学家会说，19世纪的美国，食品问题位列十大死因之一，医学史家甚至称那是‘美国胃痛的世纪’。

Most food historians will tell you that food was one of the top 10 causes of death in The United States in the nineteenth century, and medical historians sometimes call it the century of the great American stomachache.

记者黛博拉·布鲁姆。

Journalist Deborah Blum.

咖啡有时完全是假的。

Coffee was sometimes a 100% adulterated.

有人真的会把椰子壳磨碎当咖啡粉用。

Literally, sometimes people would grind up coconut shells.

还会用含铅的染料给它们上色。

They would use lead infused dyes to color them.

如果人们开始怀疑买的研磨咖啡，就会改买咖啡豆。

If people got wary of their ground coffee, they would buy coffee beans.

但那些其实都是假的咖啡豆。

So they were fake coffee beans.

它们通常是用泥土和蜡做的。

They were usually made of dirt and wax.

十九世纪九十年代，国会曾就这些问题举行听证会，一家草莓果酱制造商作证说，他们的草莓果酱里根本没放草莓。

At one point in the eighteen nineties, there was a congressional hearing about some of this, and a manufacturer of strawberry jam testified that their strawberry jam contained no strawberries.

成分只有玉米糖浆、草籽和茜素煤焦油染料。

It was corn syrup, grass seed, and enalyn coal tar dyes.

他还说，他们不得不这么做，否则价格没法跟那些干得更过分的厂家竞争。

And he said that they had to do that in order to keep their prices competitive with other manufacturers who were often doing even worse things.

十九世纪后期，越来越多的美国人从农村搬到城市，开始依赖工业化生产的食品。

During the later half of the nineteenth century, more and more Americans were moving from farms to cities where they were beginning to rely on industrially produced foods.

厂家想尽办法往产品里添加未标注的成分来降低成本。

Manufacturers found all kinds of ways to stretch their products with unlisted additions.

同时，十九世纪的罐头和食品加工技术往往很不卫生，也没有普及冷藏设备。

At the same time, nineteenth century canning and food processing methods were often unsanitary, and there wasn't any widespread refrigeration.

所以食物里滋生细菌的方式多种多样，牛奶就是个典型的例子。

So there's just bacteria growing in food in all kinds of ways, milk being a classic example of that.

某种程度上，这简直就是十九世纪食品供应所有问题的完美写照。

In some ways, it's like a perfect profile of everything that's wrong with the nineteenth century food supply.

对吧？

Right?

奶制品的生产环境脏得不行。

Diaries were filthy.

简直脏到极点。

They were absolutely filthy.

奶农们把牛奶带到集市上，用大桶装着，然后用勺子舀出来卖。

Dairymen would bring milk to farmers' markets, and the dairymen would dip it out of a big container.

容器脏，勺子也脏。

And the containers were filthy, and the ladles were filthy.

更糟的是，奶农为了多赚钱，还会往牛奶里掺水。

And adding to that problem, dairyman ever eager to make a profit would thin the milk with water.

当时常见的做法就是，往牛奶里加水，直到它发蓝，然后再用石膏粉或者石灰粉把它重新染白，让它看起来跟正常牛奶一模一样。

And so one of the common practices for this but basically, you'd mix water with milk until the milk turned kind of bluish, and then you would recolor the milk white with either chalk or plaster of Paris so it looked like normal milk.

有时候，奶农还会在牛奶表面加一层捣碎的小牛脑，让水稀释过的牛奶看起来像有奶油浮在上面。

Sometimes dairymen would add pureed calf brains to the top to make it look like there was cream floating on the watered down milk.

最后，防腐剂甲醛在美国内战期间成了保存尸体的首选，而那些富有创意的美国奶农却说：天哪。

And finally, the preservative formaldehyde had become the number one preserver of bodies during the civil war, the American dairyman in their inventive way said, wow.

既然这东西能这么有效地防止尸体腐烂，那对乳制品会有什么效果呢？

If this really works so well to preserve rotting bodies, what could it do for dairy products?

于是发生了两件事。

And two things happened.

第一，甲醛毫无疑问地杀死了细菌。

One, the formaldehyde killed the bacteria, hands down.

第二，甲醛本身似乎带点甜味。

The other was that formaldehyde, it's apparently fairly sweet.

所以把甲醛混进牛奶里，就能掩盖住变质的异味。

So when you mix the formaldehyde into the milk, it covered up the taste of the rot.

于是奶农们纷纷开始使用这种方法，有些奶农甚至私下里沾沾自喜。

And so dairymen then embraced this, and you had dairymen who would kinda go to themselves.

既然一点点甲醛就能起作用，多加点效果肯定更好。

Well, if a little formaldehyde does the job, a lot would do it even better.

有些商家甚至开始打广告。

And some of these guys would actually advertise.

他们广告里会说，来买我们的特制牛奶吧。

They would have advertised saying, you know, buy our special milk.

放柜子上三周都不会坏。

You can leave it on the counter for three weeks.

但问题是，这么做的时候，甲醛含量常常高到有毒的程度。

But the problem was that often when that happened, levels of formaldehyde were really toxic.

他们根本不用告诉消费者。

They didn't have to tell the consumers.

也没有法律规定必须标注成分。

There's no requirement to label.

他们通常都不会承认加了甲醛。

They usually didn't acknowledge that it was formaldehyde.

这些甲醛配方都有些听起来很温和的名字，比如罗莎琳、普雷塞拉琳、艾辛，但喝这种牛奶的孩子却因此丧命。

The formaldehyde formulas had names like Rosaline and Preservaline and I cine and sort of benign names, but the milk killed children.

所以，当你翻看19世纪的美国报纸时，真的会找到相关报道。

And so when you start going through American newspapers in the nineteenth century, you will actually find stories.

当时被称为‘防腐牛奶丑闻’，因为牛奶里甲醛含量太高，而甲醛本是防腐剂，结果害死了许多孩子。

They're called embalmed milk scandals in which there's so much formaldehyde in the milk, and it's an embalming agent that it's killing children.

那时候可不止甲醛这一种东西。

It wasn't only formaldehyde.

厂家开始往食品里乱加各种化学物质：肉里加硼砂，啤酒里加水杨酸，干果里加亚硫酸，而美国政府却没有任何监管。

Manufacturers were starting to add all kinds of chemicals to food, borax to meat, salicylic acid to beer, sulfurous acid to dried fruit, and none of it was regulated by the US government.

19世纪的时候，根本就没有食品安全法。

There were, in the nineteenth century, no food safety laws.

也没有任何法律对食品中能添加什么设定标准。

There was no law setting standards for what could go into food.

更没有法律规定厂家必须在包装上标明成分，甚至连包装里装的东西是不是它声称的内容，都没人管。

There was no laws requiring that manufacturers label their products, and there were actually no laws requiring manufacturers to put into a package what it pretended to be.

二十世纪初，一位名叫哈维·华盛顿·怀利的政府化学家决定弄清楚这些化学物质到底对美国人造成了什么影响。

At the beginning of the twentieth century, a government chemist named Harvey Washington Wiley decided to find out what all these chemicals were actually doing to Americans.

他找到了十二名志愿者，让他们每天三餐都吃添加了甲醛、硼砂和水杨酸的食物，观察会发生什么。

He found 12 volunteers who would eat foods laced with formaldehyde, borax, and salicylic acid every day for breakfast, lunch, and dinner to see what happened.

这些人被称为‘毒物小队’。

They were called The Poison Squad.

我是菲比·朱udge。

I'm Phoebe Judge.

欢迎收听《犯罪》。

This is Criminal.

哈维·华盛顿·怀利是谁？

Who was Harvey Washington Wiley?

我总把他看作一个狂热的化学家，因为他打一开始就带着一种传教士般的使命感。

I always think of him as kind of a holy roller chemist because it was, like, crusading was part of his personality makeup from the beginning.

他父亲是个四处传教的牧师。

His father was a itinerant preacher.

他曾是地下铁路的领队。

He had been a conductor on the Underground Railroad.

他还是个农民。

He was also a farmer.

到哈维六岁的时候，他已经帮忙把奶牛赶回来挤奶了。

By the time Harvey was six, he was helping bring the cows in to be milked.

长大后，他决定学习化学，后来成了普渡大学第一位化学教授。

When he got older, he decided to study chemistry and eventually became the first chemistry professor at Purdue University.

他在那里工作了七年，之后印第安纳州卫生委员会来找他帮忙。

He'd been working there for seven years when the Indiana State Board of Health asked him if he could help them with something.

他们想查证州里卖的蜂蜜是不是真蜂蜜。

They wanted to see if the honey sold in the state was actually honey.

他发现印第安纳州大部分蜂蜜其实是玉米糖浆，还用煤焦油染料染成金黄色。

And he discovered that a majority of the honey in Indiana was actually corn syrup and dyed with a coal tar dye to be more golden.

那些造假的人——姑且这么叫吧——还做了假蜂巢，碾碎了混进糖浆里，假装是真蜂蜜。

And then the fraudsters, I guess I'll call them, had been making fake honeycomb and crumbling it into the corn syrup to make it look like actual real honey.

哈维·韦利写道，这种产品完全与蜜蜂无关，并且呼吁人们重视对真实食品的需求。

Harvey Wiley wrote that the product was, quote, entirely free of bee mediation and that the demand for honest food should be heard.

几年后，他成为美国农业部的首席化学家。

A couple of years later, he became the chief chemist of the United States Department of Agriculture, the USDA.

我们必须认识到，当他进入农业部时，美国联邦层面根本没有任何食品安全法规。

And it's really important to recognize that at the point that he goes into the Department of Agriculture, it's not just that we don't have any food safety laws in The United States at the federal level.

甚至连基本的消费者保护都不存在。

We don't have any consumer protections at all.

他进入的是一个规模极小的部门，而当时的政府对这个问题完全漠不关心。但他以一名谨慎的分析化学家的口吻提出：我们为什么不先看看呢？

And he comes into the Department of Agriculture, tiny department, in a government that has never been interested in this issue at all, and he says in a very cautious analytical chemist way, why don't we just take a look?

我们为什么不开始分析一下食品里到底有些什么？

Why don't we just start analyzing what's actually in the food supply?

以前从来没人做过这种事，但我们可以把用来检测土壤质量的高超分析化学方法，用在食品成分的检测上。

No one's ever done that before, but we can take our brilliant analytical chemistry methods that we've been applying to things like soil quality, and we can try to figure out what's in food.

于是，从1883年他一到任，化学部门就开始检测食品，并陆续发布一系列报告，标题枯燥得让人发困——《第13号简报》。

And so almost as soon as he went there, starting in 1883, the Department of Chemistry starts testing food, and they start publishing a series of bulletins with the incredibly boring title of bulletin 13.

听起来太枯燥了，食品行业根本没意识到这背后意味着什么。

And it's so boring sounding that the food industry does not actually realize what this means.

哈维·怀利和美国农业部的其他化学家检查了从罐头蔬菜、黄油到可可粉等各种食品，发现了各种问题。

Harvey Wiley and the other USDA chemists looked at everything from canned vegetables to butter to cocoa, and they found all kinds of things.

可可粉里掺了黏土、沙子，还有细细的锡粉。

The cocoa had clay and sand and finely powdered tin in it.

很多黄油其实是人造黄油，胡椒粉里则混进了木屑、麦片碎屑、沙子、泥土，甚至碾碎的橄榄核，数量多得惊人。

A lot of the butter was actually margarine, and ground pepper had sawdust, cereal crumbs, sand, soil, and powdered olive stones to, quote, an astonishing extent.

里面还掺了灰尘，很可能是从地板上扫来的。

It also had dust, possibly from floor sweepings.

怀利派去检测香料的一位农业部科学家，因为实在受不了所见的脏污，请求调岗。

One of the USDA scientists Wiley assigned to look at spices asked to be transferred because he was so disgusted by what he found.

他们发现的不仅是花样百出的造假，还有些极其危险的物质，比如红铅、铜绿，某些甜食里含砷，啤酒和葡萄酒中的水杨酸含量也高得吓人。

And they're finding not only this panorama of fraud, but some really dangerous materials like red lead and cheddar, for instance, or arsenic in some of the sweet products or really dangerous levels of salicylic acid in beer and wine.

如果你读过这些报告，就会发现他们反复提出：这里头有太多危险成分了，我们至少能不能先要求食品贴上标签？

And they start if you read these reports, they say, basically, there's some really dangerous stuff here, and could we at least start labeling food?

至少吧

At a minimum,

我们该标清楚。

we should label.

食品饮料行业却坚决反对。

And the food and drink industry is like, absolutely not.

但哈维·韦利继续深入调查美国人吃的东西，想尽办法把真相公布出去。

But Harvey Wiley kept looking into what Americans were eating and doing whatever he could to get the word out.

他还专门请了一名记者，把他的技术报告改写成通俗易懂的新闻稿。

He had even hired a journalist to help translate his technical reports into easy to understand press releases.

可美国人一直不太在意，直到美西战争爆发。

But Americans didn't seem to be that concerned until the Spanish American War.

美西战争期间，运到古巴前线美军手中的，有罐装肉，还有一些半腌制的肉块。

So during the Spanish American War, one of the things that was shipped down to American soldiers fighting in Cuba was both canned meat and then some semi preserved, you know, chunks of carcasses of meat.

战后，不少曾在古巴服役的军官指控美国政府：死在食物手里的士兵，比死在古巴士兵枪下的还多，他们尤其把矛头指向了肉类。

And afterwards, there were a number of officers who had served in Cuba who accused the US government of killing more soldiers with the food than the actual Cuban fighters had been able to accomplish, and they particularly focused on meat.

全国各地的报纸都报道了这样的事：罐头里不仅有蛆虫和烧焦的绳子，还有一股刺鼻的化学味，有位上校甚至称这种肉为‘防腐处理的牛肉’。

Newspapers around the country reported accounts of cans that contained maggots and pieces of charred rope along with the meat, and a chemical smell that led one major to call it embalmed beef.

一位士兵说，那味道实在太难闻了，只要有人打开罐头，大家通常都得赶紧躲远点，不然非得被熏晕不可。

One soldier said that the smell was so bad that when someone opened a can, they often had to, quote, retire a distance to prevent being overcome.

这件事闹得太大了，当时的战争部不得不为此召开听证会。

And it began such a scandal that the then Department of War held hearings about it.

其中一位作证的人是西奥多·罗斯福，他本人当年在古巴打过仗，当过‘莽骑兵’。

And one of the people who testified was Teddy Roosevelt who had, you know, been a rough rider in Cuba during the Spanish American war.

他说，他宁愿吃自己的帽子，也不愿意吃军队发的这种罐头肉。

And he said that he would rather have eaten his hat than the canned meat that was provided by the soldiers.

他还讲了个故事：有个下属死活不肯吃罐头里的肉，他硬逼着那人吃，结果那人刚吃下去就立刻吐了。

And he actually told a story about one of his soldiers in his command refusing to eat the food out of the can, and he ordered him to do it, and the man almost immediately started throwing up.

哈维·韦利也被传唤去听证会上作证。

Harvey Wiley was also called to testify at the hearings.

他和团队检查了士兵们吃过的那些罐头，发现里面的东西跟普通美国人每天在超市买的罐头肉根本没什么两样。

He and his staff had examined the cans of meat that the soldiers had eaten and found that what was in the cans wasn't any different than the canned meat that Americans were getting every day at the grocery store.

军方没有受到任何指控。

No charges were brought against the military.

士兵死亡并不是他们的错。

It wasn't their fault soldiers had died.

他们只是给士兵提供了每个美国人都在吃的东西。

They were just feeding them what every American ate.

同年，哈维·威利参加了关于国家食品供应的一系列听证会。

That same year, Harvey Wiley participated in a series of hearings on the country's food supply.

他介绍了自己部门的调查结果，并呼吁厂商在标签上列出所有成分，让消费者清楚自己到底在吃什么。

He talked about his department's findings and asked that manufacturers tell consumers what they were really eating by listing all the ingredients on labels.

为了更有力地说明观点，他朗读了自己写的一首关于食品欺诈的诗。

To help make his point, he read a poem he'd written about food fraud.

我真的很喜欢那首诗。

I actually really love that poem.

他把我们刚才说的那些问题都一一讲了一遍。

He just goes through kind of all the things we're talking about.

对吧？

Right?

那黄油其实是油质人造黄油。

The butter is really olio margarine.

胡椒其实是磨碎的骨头，咖啡根本不是咖啡，牛奶更是完全危险。

The pepper is really ground bone, the coffee is not coffee, the milk is just completely dangerous.

诗里有句说，你喝的葡萄酒从来没听说过葡萄，结尾是宴会多美好，别急着开始，先想想过去和未来，我真想知道，这东西里到底掺了什么。

It had lines like the wine which you drink never heard of a grape and ended with the banquet how fine don't begin it till you think of the past and the future inside how I wonder I wonder what's in it.

但第二年，当食品安全法案在众议院和参议院提出时，食品制造商强烈反对，法案不到一个月就被搁置了。

But when food safety legislation was introduced in the house and the senate the next year, food manufacturers pushed back, and the bills were shut down in less than a month.

这也不是第一次发生这样的事了。

It wasn't the first time this had happened.

我觉得韦利后来已经感到自己快要无能为力了。

I think Wiley got to the point where he was feeling he was starting to feel just desperate about this.

我该怎么解决这个问题？

How do I fix this?

1901年，哈维·韦利向国会申请资金，做一件前所未有的事——系统性地在人体身上测试这些食品添加剂。

In nineteen o one, Harvey Wiley asked congress for the funds to do something that hadn't been done before, to systematically test some of these food additives on human subjects.

他把这项实验称为‘卫生餐桌试验’，但报纸们却根据志愿者们给它起了个新名字：‘毒药小队实验’。

He called his experiment the hygienic table trials, but newspapers started calling it the Poison Squad Experiments after the volunteers.

他招募了农业部的年轻职员和初级员工，让他们自愿参与这场可能致命的试验。

He recruited young clerks and entry level employees of the Department of Agriculture to essentially agree to dying dangerously.

农业部收到了大量申请。

The Department of Agriculture received lots of applications.

一位热情的志愿者写道：‘尊敬的先生，我的胃能扛住任何东西。’

One eager volunteer wrote, dear sir, I have a stomach that can stand anything.

我的胃会令您大吃一惊。

I have a stomach that will surprise you.

‘毒药小队’的成员都是年轻力壮的男性。

The Poison Squad members were young athletic men.

他们中的许多人曾是大学生运动员，年龄都在二十多岁。

A lot of them had been college athletes, and they were in their twenties.

他选这些人，是因为觉得他们身体底子好。

And he picked them because he thought of them as basically sturdy.

对吧？

Right?

他可不是想害死人。

He didn't wanna kill people.

他也不想找那些身体弱的人来做实验。

He wasn't trying to have fragile people in his experiment.

他要的是那种能扛得住这些影响的人。

He wanted people who he thought could tolerate some of this.

按二十世纪初的标准，他挑的都是些身体健康的年轻小伙子。

And I guess in an early twentieth century way, he picked these sort of healthy young men.

他们能拿到一点点津贴，而且每天三餐、每周七天，全免费提供。

They would get a very small stipend, and they would get three meals a day, seven days a week for free.

在这么低的薪水下，这已经是很大的好处了。

And at these very minimal salaries, this was a huge benefit.

哈维·韦利在农业部的地下室建了一个试验厨房和餐厅。

Harvey Wiley had a test kitchen and a dining room built in the basement of the Department of Agriculture.

他在餐厅里摆了两张圆桌，铺上了白色桌布。

He set up two round tables with white tablecloths in the dining room.

每张桌子坐六名志愿者。

Six volunteers would sit at each table.

他们都会在同一时间吃饭。

They would all eat at the same time.

但其中一张桌子上的食物，会掺入可能有毒的物质。

But at one of the tables, they would be having food laced with something that could be poisonous.

餐食严格按时间供应：早上8点吃早餐，中午12点吃午餐，下午5点半吃晚餐。

Meals would be served on a strict schedule breakfast at 8AM, lunch at noon, dinner at 05:30.

志愿者们宣誓，除了水之外，不准在餐厅外吃喝任何东西，水的用量也要记录并上报给韦利。

The volunteers took an oath not to eat or drink anything outside of the dining room except water, which they would measure out and report to Wiley.

如果饿了，也只能忍着。

If they were hungry, they had to wait.

每顿饭前，他们都要称体重、量体温、记录脉搏。

Before each meal, they would be weighed, have their temperature taken, and have their pulse rate recorded.

饭后，他们得把吃喝的每一样东西、每一分量都详细记下来。

After meals, they had to write down every single thing they ate or drank and exactly how much.

医生每周会给他们做两次检查。

Doctors would examine them twice a week.

还要抽血、验尿，各种检查、称重、测量，还被又戳又按的。

And they would be blood tested and urine tested and all of the tests and weighed and measured and poked and prodded.

他们得随身带着农业部发的袋子，收集所有排泄物，以便后续分析。

They had to carry around bags issued by the USDA to collect any waste products so that they could be analyzed later.

他们还被要求平时要规矩，好好过日子，别放纵，按时睡觉。

And they were told to be on their best behavior in general, quote, to pursue their ordinary vocations without any excesses and to take their ordinary hours of sleep.

他们吃的饭可都是好菜。

And they would eat really great food.

他请了一位高级厨师。

He hired a high end chef.

这些餐食都是正宗的农场直供食材。

All of these meals were the genuine Farm Fresh article.

他们专门跑到华盛顿特区周边的马里兰和弗吉尼亚的农场，采购最新鲜的蔬果。

They actually went out to farms around the DC area in Maryland to Virginia and bought super fresh produce.

他们精心挑选的食材，从没添加过任何防腐剂。

They carefully got food that had never had preservatives in it.

他们做了各种精致又美味的菜肴。

They cooked all kinds of elaborate, wonderful meals.

如果你回头看看餐厅的照片，还真有点像高档餐厅的样子。

And and when you go back and you look at the pictures of the dining room, it it kinda looks like a nice restaurant.

对吧？

Right?

桌上都是圆桌。

It's got these round tables.

还铺着白色的桌布。

They have white tablecloths.

他还准备了精美的瓷器和餐具。

He got nice china and flatware.

他们用的是梯背椅，还有擦得锃亮的玻璃杯。

They've got these ladder back chairs and beautifully polished glasses.

我觉得这本来就是他计划的一部分。

And I think that was part of his plan.

他希望让人感觉像是在和朋友一起吃饭。

He wanted it to feel like I'm just dining with friends.

他不想让人觉得是在接受什么实验。

He didn't want it to feel like I'm being experimented on.

每位志愿者都签了一份免责协议，同意如果出现严重不适或死亡，政府不承担责任。

Each of the volunteers signed a waiver, releasing the government from any responsibility if they became very sick or died.

有一位志愿者在门上贴了张纸条，上面写着：唯有勇者，方敢品尝。

One of the volunteers put a sign at the door that said, none but the brave can eat the fair.

马上回来。

We'll be right back.

想听无广告版本？加入 Criminal Plus 吧。

To listen without ads, join Criminal Plus.

现在注册，可享受七天免费试用。

Right now, we're offering a free seven day trial.

前往 patreon.com/criminalplus 即可加入。

Go to patreon.com/criminalplus.

感谢 Squarespace 的支持。

Thanks to Squarespace for their support.

建网站可能让人望而却步，尤其是它往往是别人对你的第一印象。

Making a website can be intimidating, especially because it's often the first thing people see about your business.

如果你想打造一个给人留下好印象的网站，根本不需要多年编程经验。

If you wanna build a website that makes a great first impression on people, you don't need years of coding experience.

你只需要 Squarespace 就够了。

You just need Squarespace.

这是一个一体化的建站平台，专为帮你在线脱颖而出而设计。

It's the all in one website platform made to help you stand out online.

Squarespace 提供你需要的所有工具，让你的网站完全按你的想法设计，无论做什么生意，都能轻松销售服务并收款。

Squarespace has the tools you need to make your website look exactly how you want it to look, sell your services, and get paid no matter what business you're in.

你可以从专业设计师打造的模板库中自由选择。

You can choose from a library of templates designed by professionals.

如果你不想一个个翻模板，Squarespace 的 Blueprint AI 可以根据你的需求自动生成一个网站。

Or if you don't wanna scroll through all the template options, Squarespace's Blueprint AI can build a website for you.

只需几分钟，输入几个关键词，它就能从多个模板中组合出你想要的网站。

In just a couple of minutes based on a few prompts, it'll pull from different templates to create the website you need.

前往 squarespace.com/criminal 申请免费试用。

Go to squarespace.com/criminal for a free trial.

准备上线时，使用优惠码 criminal，首购网站或域名立减 10%。

When you're ready to launch, use the offer code criminal to save 10% off your first purchase of a website or domain.

Criminal 节目由 kachava 赞助支持。

Support for Criminal comes from kachava.

我们大多数人每天早晨都会喝点东西，比如咖啡、鲜榨果汁或者蛋白粉饮料，这已经成了习惯。

Most of us have a daily drink that's part of our morning routine, like coffee, a pressed juice, or a protein shake.

Kachava 可以轻松融入你的日常习惯。

Kachava can be an easy addition to that routine.

我每天早上都喜欢喝一杯绿色冰沙，加两勺 Kachava 再一起搅匀，特别方便。

I like to start my day with a green smoothie, and it's really easy to add a couple of scoops of kachava before blending it.

Kachava 是一款全能营养奶昔，能帮你提升精力、改善消化、增强免疫力，还有很多好处。

Kachava is an all in one shake that can help with your energy, digestion, immunity, and more.

它选用高品质原料，不含任何人工香精、色素或甜味剂。

It's crafted with high quality ingredients without any artificial flavors, colors, or sweeteners.

纯粹的营养，为你全天候的能量需求提供支持。

It's just clean nutrition to fuel you wherever your day takes you.

他们新推出的旅行装让这一切更简单了。

Their new travel packs make it even easier to do that.

随手往包里塞一包就行。

You can just throw one in your bag.

一包就含有丰富的蛋白质、膳食纤维、维生素和矿物质，还有绿蔬、益生菌、Omega、电解质等等。

One packet provides lots of protein, fiber, vitamins, and minerals, greens, probiotics, omegas, electrolytes, and more.

而且它有好多好口味，比如巧克力、香草、奶茶、抹茶、椰子红莓和草莓。

And it comes in great flavors like chocolate, vanilla, chai, matcha, coconut acai, and strawberry.

随身携带你的每日养生习惯。

Take your daily ritual with you.

去 kachava.com，使用优惠码 criminal，首单立减 15%。

Go to kachava.com and use code criminal for 15% off your first order.

就是 Kachava，kachava.com，优惠码 criminal。

That's Kachava, kachava,.com, code criminal.

哈维·怀利让毒物小队首先尝试的物质是硼砂，这种东西原本用作清洁剂，但也常被添加到肉类和黄油里当防腐剂。

The first substance Harvey Wiley wanted the Poison Squad to eat was borax, which was used as a cleaning product but was also a popular preservative in meat and butter.

所以他先选了硼砂，因为他觉得这东西没那么危险，还向国会作证说，想从低剂量开始。

So he chose borax first because he thought and he actually testified to congress about this, that it wasn't that dangerous, and he wanted to start low in.

他本来以为，顶多有人会有点肠胃不适，根本没指望会有什么明显反应。

He thought, you know, some of them might get an upset stomach or something, but he actually had expected very little effect.

怀利本想把硼砂混在黄油里，但志愿者们不知怎么发现了，干脆就不在面包上抹黄油了。

Wiley decided to hide the borax in the butter, but the volunteers somehow found out it was there and stopped putting butter on their bread.

接下来，怀利把硼砂混进了牛奶和咖啡里。

Next, Wiley mixed it into the milk and then the coffee.

但受试者很快就发现了，于是他们干脆说：每顿饭必须吞下这颗胶囊，我们会盯着你吃完。

But the test subjects were able to figure that out so quickly that, basically, they ended up just saying, you need to swallow this capsule with every meal, and we're gonna stand there and watch you do it.

志愿者们把那些胶囊叫做‘子弹’。

The volunteers reportedly called the capsules bullets.

《华盛顿邮报》的一名记者曾想象过志愿者们圣诞晚餐的菜单。

One reporter for The Washington Post published what he imagined the volunteer's Christmas dinner menu would look like.

苹果酱、硼砂、汤、硼砂、火鸡、硼砂。

Applesauce, borax, soup, borax, turkey, borax.

《华盛顿邮报》经常报道‘毒物小队’的事。

The Washington Post reported on The Poison Squad often.

人们似乎特别爱看这类新闻，以至于记者有时干脆自己编故事。

People seem to like reading about it so much that sometimes a reporter would just make something up.

有一篇文章声称，吃硼砂让志愿者们的皮肤变粉了。

One article claimed that eating the borax had made the volunteers turn pink.

报道称，每位接受治疗的年轻人肤色都变得粉嫩红润，连婚礼上的新娘看了都会嫉妒得受不了。

Quote, each of the young men undergoing the course of treatment has blossomed out with a bright pink complexion that would make a society bride sick with envy.

文章发表后，农业部收到了大量女性来信，询问她们该吃些什么才能拥有这样的好皮肤。

After it was published, the USDA received a stack of letters from women asking what they needed to take to get such beautiful skin.

随着‘毒物小队’持续开展工作，它获得了巨大的关注。

And this Poison Squad, as it went forward, got a huge amount of attention.

这不仅仅是报纸在报道它。

It wasn't just that newspapers were covering it.

还有人写了关于它的歌曲。

There were songs about it.

也有以它为主题的演出。

There were shows about it.

不只是威利在好奇‘这东西到底是什么’，还有人专门为它写诗。

There were not just Wiley's, you know, I wonder what's in it, but poems written about it.

你甚至能找到大量极其精彩的漫画作品。

You can find the host of the most incredible cartoons.

但随着硼砂实验的进行，志愿者们开始严重不适。

But as the borax experiment went on, the volunteers started getting very sick.

他们不停地呕吐。

You know, they were throwing up.

体重也在下降。

They were losing weight.

整个人都感觉特别不对劲。

They felt incredibly off.

威利根本没想到会这样。

Wiley, he hadn't expected that to happen.

他说，这件事真正改变了他对整个项目的看法，正是这次实验让他意识到，他们之前对危险性的判断太轻了。

And he said, which really stuck with me, that that was the experiment that changed the way he saw the entire program because it was the one that convinced him that they had been underestimating.

不是高估，而是低估了这些物质的危险性。

Not overestimating, but underestimating how dangerous this was.

那些大家平时随口说‘哦，没事’的化学物质。

That these compounds that everyone was just like, oh, yeah.

这是他们日常饮食的一部分。

This is part of the daily diet.

当你把他统计的这些添加剂加在一起时，危险性远超他的预期。

When you added them up as he was doing, were much more dangerous than he had expected.

硼砂实验之后，他的表达语气明显变了。

And you see the tone of his messaging change after the borax experiment.

报纸对这件事的报道风格也跟着变了。

And you see the tone of the way newspapers are covering this change.

对吧？

Right?

波斯特早期发过几篇文章，把这事当笑话看。

Post had really wrote some early articles in which they kinda saw this as high comedy.

就是一群人围坐桌边，甘愿冒险送命，还管这叫美食探险之类的。

You know, men agreeing to sit around a table and dying dangerously and, you know, these food adventurers and all that.

但等到硼砂的结果出来，他们就再也不当儿戏了。

But by the time the borax results come out, they're just not even messing around.

他们说，这些人吃了毒药。

They're saying ate poison.

怀利教授让志愿者吃毒药，而当时传递给美国公众的信息是：你们每天都在吃毒药。

Professor Wiley was feeding his volunteers poison, and the message to the American public then is you're eating poison every day.

你开始看到公众态度的转变，人们真正听进去了，也开始意识到问题的严重性。

You're starting to see this sort of shift in public attitude in which people are actually hearing this and and realizing.

我真觉得，这是他们第一次意识到，这有多危险，甚至可能毒害了自己的孩子。

I really think for the first time just how dangerous this was and that they might be poisoning their children.

于是，公众的愤怒就像一锅慢慢烧开的水，持续升温。

And so you start to get this sort of I always think of it as a low simmering public fire.

人们开始生气了，但可能还没气到足以采取行动。

People are starting to get angry, but they're probably not angry enough.

就在这些研究陆续公布的时候，食品行业开始积极抹黑怀利的科学家声誉。

And the food industry, about the time these studies started coming out, start really actively working to discredit Wiley as a scientist.

硼砂行业甚至请了公关人员，伪造市民来信投给报纸，假装感激硼砂让食物更安全，还说怀利是在故意让食物变得更危险。

They oh, the borax industry actually hired a publicist who wrote fake letters to newspapers to pretending to be citizens who were grateful for borax and their food and felt that Wiley was trying to make their food more dangerous.

他写了大量这样的信。

And he wrote all these letters.

每一封都发表了。

They all got published.

对吧？

Right?

那些都是他虚构出来的人，专门写信攻击怀利。

That were just people he had made up criticizing Wiley.

人们还用其他方式针对他，你可以看到强烈的反弹。

People, went after him in other ways, and you see this huge pushback.

但为时已晚。

But it was too late.

怀利和‘毒药小队’已经转向水杨酸的研究，那些志愿者的状况比吃硼砂的人更糟。

Wiley and The Poison Squad had already moved on to salicylic acid, and those volunteers were doing even worse than the ones who had eaten the borax.

怀利开始给杂志写投诉信，因为那些杂志刊登了虚假宣传的食品广告。

Wiley started writing complaint letters to magazines when they printed advertisements for foods that weren't what they claimed to be.

他在一封信里提到一种叫麦芽咖啡的产品，说是用烤大麦做的，还问这种东西怎么可能有‘真正的咖啡味’。

In one letter, he wrote about a product called malt coffee that was made from roasted barley and asked how it could have, quote, real coffee flavor.

他写道：除了咖啡本身，还有什么能有真正的咖啡味？

He wrote, is there anything that can have the real coffee flavor except coffee?

批评者称他为‘美国人的胃的警察’。

Critics called him the policeman of the American stomach.

《加州水果种植者》上的一篇社论说：赶紧让这个化学家闭嘴吧，他简直在毁我们的食欲。

One editorial in a publication called The California Fruit Grower said, let somebody muzzle the chemist who would destroy our appetite.

他开始到处巡回演讲，只要有人愿意听，他就去讲，你都能看到他。

He kinda goes on the speaking circuit and talks to anyone who will listen to him, and you can see him.

我觉得，这也正是人们批评他的地方——他一点都不像大家心目中那种严谨、客观的科学家。

And this too, I think, was one of the criticisms that was leveled against him as he doesn't really sound we have an idea of a scientist as being, you know, completely methodical and objective.

科学家不该有个人立场。

They have no opinion.

他们只是告诉你数据怎么说。

They're just telling you what the data says.

而怀利现在不再这么做了。

And Wiley's not doing that anymore.

他希望改变现状，而且坚决不肯退让。

He wants this to change, and he absolutely refuses to back down.

我们马上回来。

We'll be right back.

《Criminal》由ZocDoc赞助播出。

Support for Criminal comes from ZocDoc.

当你找到一位真正懂你的医生时，那种感觉真的很棒。

It's a great feeling when you find the perfect doctor who really understands you.

你可以在ZocDoc上找到这样的医生。

You can find doctors like that on ZocDoc.

ZocDoc是一个免费的App和网站，能帮你找到并预约网络内的优质医生，让你找到真正喜欢的那位。

ZocDoc is a free app and website that helps you find and book high quality in network doctors so you can find someone you love.

你可以通过它预约全美50个州超过15万名网络内医生的门诊。

You can book in network appointments with more than a 150,000 providers across all 50 states.

他们提供超过200个专科，你可以根据专科或症状轻松找到合适的医生。

They offer more than 200 specialties, so you can easily search by specialty or symptom to find the right person.

成千上万条真实患者评价，让你清楚了解医生的风格和为人。

Thousands of verified patient reviews give you a real sense of who your doctor is.

准备好后，你可以直接查看医生的实时排期，一键预约。

When you're ready, you can see their real time availability and click to book instantly.

不用再打电话来回折腾，也不用干等。

No phone tag, no waiting around.

别再拖延看医生的事了，马上去 zocdoc.com/criminal 找到你心仪的医生并立即预约吧。

You can stop putting off those doctor's appointments and go to zocdoc.com/criminal to find and instantly book a doctor you love today.

就是 zocdoc.com/criminal。

That's zocdoc.com/criminal.

zocdoc.com/criminal。

Zocdoc.com/criminal.

感谢 Zocdoc 对本节目的支持。

Thanks to Zocdoc for sponsoring this message.

本周《净资产与放松》节目，我邀请到了Tank Sinatra，他是网络迷因界的王者，在《Tank的好消息》《野生网红》以及他的个人账号上，全网粉丝超过一千万。

This week on Net Worth and Chill, I'm joined by Tank Sinatra, the meme king with over 15,000,000 followers across Tank's good news, influencers in the wild, and his personal account.

Tank会拆解迷因经济的真相：一条广告贴能赚多少钱，为什么大品牌愿意为搞笑内容砸重金，还有像Preparation H、梗图合集、精准截图这些迷因文化，到底怎么悄悄改变了我们对金钱和价值的认知。

Tank is breaking down what the meme economy really is, how much a single sponsored post pays, why major brands are throwing serious money at jokes, and how meme culture, think Preparation H, starter packs, and a perfectly timed screenshot, is actually reshaping how we think about money and value.

准备好迎接一场颠覆你刷屏方式的对话吧——它会让你重新思考走红到底值不值，也会让你明白，有时候最赚钱的举动，恰恰藏在最荒唐的笑话里。

Get ready for a conversation that'll change the way you scroll, make you rethink what going viral is really worth, and prove that sometimes the most serious money moves are wrapped in the silliest of jokes.

你可以在任何播客平台收听，或者在YouTube搜索You're Rich BFF观看视频。

Listen wherever you get your podcasts or watch on youtube.com/ You're Rich BFF.

1904年，作家厄普顿·辛克莱来到芝加哥。

In nineteen o four, the writer Upton Sinclair traveled to Chicago.

他当时打算写一部小说，后来这部作品被命名为《屠场》。

He was planning to start work on a novel that would later be called The Jungle.

小说讲的是芝加哥屠宰场工人的悲惨处境。

And it's about, the plight of people working in the packing yards in Chicago.

他对芝加哥工人的遭遇特别关注，甚至亲自潜入芝加哥的牲畜市场和肉类加工厂，暗中调查。

He'd gotten very interested in the plight of workers in Chicago, and he had actually gone and gone undercover in the Chicago stockyards and meat packing plants.

当时厄普顿·辛克莱穷得厉害，简直就跟那些收入微薄的移民工人混在一起了，而这些人正是他想关注的对象。

And Upton Sinclair was so poor that he kind of blended in with all of these very underpaid immigrant workers who were what he was interested in.

因为他长时间待在屠宰厂里，所以写出了极其骇人的细节。

And because he had spent so much time in the packinghouses themselves, he had these incredibly gruesome descriptions.

对吧？

Right?

墙上长霉，死老鼠被绞碎混进香肠，环境脏得没法形容。

The mold growing on the walls, the dead rats that were chopped up and went into the sausage, the horrible, filthy conditions.

厄普顿·辛克莱的出版商觉得他描写肉类加工过程的部分太恶心了，直接取消了合同。

Upton Sinclair's publisher thought the descriptions of how the meat was processed were so disgusting that they canceled his contract.

等他终于找到新出版商时，对方派了两名核查员去芝加哥，确认他书里写的那些事是不是真的。

When he finally found a new publisher, they decided to send two fact checkers to Chicago to make sure that what he was describing in the book was real.

核查员回来后说，实际情况比书里写的还要糟。

And they came back from the stockers, and they said it's worse than in the book.

对吧？

Right?

确实更糟糕。

It's absolutely worse.

于是他们出版了这本书，寄给了罗斯福，还附上了他们自己的调查报告。

So they published the book, and they sent it to Roosevelt, and they sent it with a copy of their fact check.

与此同时，《丛林》成了文学界的轰动之作，所有人都在关注食品生产中的恐怖真相。

Meanwhile, the jungle becomes this sort of literary sensation, and everyone is focused on the horrors of the food production.

这起丑闻闹得太大了，罗斯福最终派了自己的调查员前往芝加哥。

And it becomes such a scandal that finally Roosevelt sends his own fact checkers to Chicago.

尽管肉联厂知道调查员要来，但情况实在太恶劣了，罗斯福不得不去国会说：这太不像话了。

And even though the packing houses knew they were coming, things were so bad that Roosevelt goes to Congress and he says, this is terrible.

我必须让这事得到解决。

I want this fixed.

你们得通过《肉类检验法案》。

I want you to pass the meat inspection act.

国会本来在肉联厂的压力下想推脱，但罗斯福说：行，那就通过吧。

And Congress, under pressure from the packinghouses, Roosevelt says, fine.

我会先公布报告的一部分，如果你们不满足我的要求，我就把整份报告都公开。

I'm gonna publish a portion of the report, and then if you don't give me what I want, I'm gonna publish the whole thing.

报告中公开的这部分内容描述了病人在黑暗工作间那所谓的海绵木地板上吐痰，而后来掉在地上的肉屑会被扫起来，再加工成食品。

One part of the published section of the report describes sick people spitting on the, quote, spongy wooden floors of the dark work rooms from which falling scraps of meat are later shoveled up to be later converted into food products.

消息一出，欧洲立即取消了所有与美国的肉类合同。

Instantly, Europe cancels all its meat contracts with The United States.

到了这个时候，肉品加工厂才意识到，必须马上解决这个问题。

And at that point, the packing houses realize or the meat producers realize that they've gotta get this fixed.

于是他们回到国会，表示愿意接受肉类检验法案。

And they go back to congress and say, yes, we'll agree to a meat inspection act.

因此，1906年6月，《肉类检验法案》顺利通过。

And so the Meat Inspection Act of nineteen o six passes in June.

就在这场愤怒的浪潮达到顶峰时，罗斯福再次前往国会，说：‘只要你们通过一项食品和药品法案，我就立即签署。’于是法案通过了。

And then in this sort of tidal wave of fury, the bonfire finally at full roar as it were, Roosevelt goes to congress, and he says, I'm gonna sign a food and drug law if you pass one, and they pass it.

这项法案在《肉类检验法案》通过大约两周后也正式生效。

And it follows the Meat Inspection Act by about two weeks.

所以《丛林》促成了《肉类检验法》，而这部法律又推动了政治进程，最终带来了美国第一部食品与药品法。

So the jungle gets us the Meat Inspection Act, and the Meat Inspection Act drives the politics in a way that gets us the first food and drug law.

它正式名称叫《纯净食品与药品法》，但人们更常称它为怀利博士法。

It was called the Pure Food and Drug Act, but it was known as doctor Wiley's Law.

怀利和‘毒物小队’让公众意识到，当时的食品供应有多么危险。

Wiley and the Poison Squad laid the groundwork for people to realize just how dangerous the food supply was.

甚至在1906年法案通过之前，就已经有越来越多的人写信给国会，给白宫发电报，说：‘我们需要一些保护。’

And and even up until the nineteen o six law, people were increasingly writing to Congress and sending telegrams to the White House saying, I want some kind of protection.

所以公众的呼声在不断高涨，我真的很佩服《丛林》这本书。

So the sort of public will was growing, and I admire the jungle.

但如果没有人们早已积压的愤怒，如果没有那把火早就烧起来了，光靠这本书根本做不到这些。

But but it wouldn't have done that if people hadn't already been so angry if the fire hadn't already been burning in that way.

根据《纯净食品与药品法》，食品不得通过标签或品牌误导消费者，不得添加有毒或有害成分，不得掺杂降低品质或效力的物质，不得用染色、混合或涂层来掩盖损坏或低劣，也不得含有任何肮脏、腐烂或变质的动植物成分。

Under the Pure Food and Drug Act, foods couldn't be labeled or branded to mislead the customer or contain added ingredients which were poisonous or harmful or have substances mixed in them that reduce their quality or strength or be colored or mixed or coated to disguise damage or inferiority, or consist in whole or in part of a filthy decomposed or putrid animal or vegetable substance.

这对美国来说是一个转折性的时刻，因为在那之前，美国根本没有任何食品消费者保护法律。

And that is a paradigm changing moment for The United States because there's no food consumer protection laws in The United States until that moment.