143: Grand Circle Road Trip (From the Archive)

还有个事儿我们得提一下。

As well that we wanted to mention.

离开卡皮特尔礁之后，你从东侧出去，一路上看起来啥都没有。

So leaving Capitol Reef and you're going out the East Side, and you're headed through pretty much nothing, it seems like.

看着是没啥，但其实藏着个好地方，名字还特别酷。

It seems like it, but there's something hidden, and it's got the coolest name.

格伦维尔谷地是我从卡皮特尔礁到莫阿布、拱门和峡谷地这一路最爱的景点。

Goblin Valley is mine is my favorite stop between Capitol Reef and, like, the Moab Arches and Canyonlands area.

你肯定在电影里见过那儿。

And so you've probably seen this in movies.

就是不知道那地方叫啥。

You just don't know about it.

《银河追缉令》里就用过格伦维尔谷地的场景。

They used Goblin Valley in, Galaxy Quest.

别放弃，听我说。

Neva, give up.

绝不认输。

Neva surrender.

加里纳格。

Garrignag.

加里纳格。

Garrignag.

对。

Yes.

如果你看过《银河护卫队》，应该记得那个他们去星球找铍球的场景吧。

If if you've ever seen Galaxy Quest, and you know that scene where they could they go to that planet to get the beryllium sphere.

对吧？

Right?

蒂姆·艾伦在那儿跟一个石头怪打了一架。

Tim Allen ends up fighting a rock monster.

你懂的。

You know?

那叫格雷内克。

That's Called Gregneck.

格雷内克。

Gregneck.

格雷内克。

Gregneck.

在那些小东西之后，他们得赶紧离开，不然迟早被其中一个吃掉。

After all those little tiny creatures, they'll gotta get out of here before some of those one of those things eats guy.

对。

Yeah.

那段场景全是在 Goblin Valley 拍的。

That scene is all in Goblin Valley.

那地方真太酷了。

And so it's such a cool stop.

你瞧，到处都是矮矮的小石柱。

You know, you've got all these little short hoodoos.

你在布莱斯峡谷见过高高的风蚀柱吧。

You've seen tall hoodoos at Bryce Canyon.

这些可矮多了。

These ones are a lot more squat.

像小精灵一样。

Like goblins.

是啊。

Yeah.

它们让我想起……

They remind will.

对。

Yeah.

我倒觉得更像《冰雪奇缘》里的那些巨魔。

They remind me more of, like, the trolls from Frozen.

没错。

Yeah.

你知道吧，它们其实比那个大一点，但看起来更像那种风格。

You know, they're a little bit bigger than that, but they resemble that a lot more.

对啊，因为你远远看着，真觉得它们随时会活过来似的。

Do because when you're looking out at it, it really does look like they're gonna turn into something alive.

对啊。

Mhmm.

就像《冰雪奇缘》里的那样。

Like in Frozen.

是啊。

Yeah.

说真的，这感觉太棒了。

You know, it's it's really cool.

还能给你唱首好听的歌。

And sing you a nice song.

是啊。

Yeah.

对。

Yeah.

它们可不是《银河系》里那种吃肉的格雷格·纳克。

They're not the flesh eating Greg Knack in Galaxy.

哎呀，看啊，它会帮上小家伙的忙。

Oh, look, it's gonna help the little one.

你们以前看过这个剧吗？

Did you guys ever see the show?

抱歉，这可是个冷门梗。

Sorry, that's a deep cut right there.

这可是我们家的最爱电影之一。

That is that is that's that's a that's a family favorite movie.

要是你没看出来的话。

In case you can't tell.

但戈布林谷地有意思的地方在于，根本没什么固定步道。

But what's fun about Goblin Valley is there's not really any trails.

我的意思是，你直接走出去，随便逛逛这片地方就行。

I mean, you just go out you explore the area.

简直就是个超大的游乐场。

It's just it's a giant playground.

是啊，我小时候和一堆朋友，连我们童子军团队都去过那儿。

Yeah, I had a lot of friends and even my own scout troop when I was growing up, we went there.

我们还经常在 Goblin Valley 玩夜间游戏。

And we would play, like, night games in Goblin Valley.

你知道吧，有些人会在这片奇形怪状的岩石群里玩激光枪战或者夺旗游戏，是吧。

You know, some people, you know, they'd play laser tag or capture the flag amongst all these hoodoos Yeah.

那些小怪兽一样的石头，玩起来特别带劲。

And these little these little goblins, and it's so fun.

那里的地貌太酷了。

It's such a cool landscape.

简直像外星球一样。

It's otherworldly.

特别好玩。

It's really fun.

Goblin Valley 旁边就是犹他州我觉得最棒的窄缝峡谷之一。

Right next to Goblin Valley is, I think, one of the coolest slot canyons in Utah.

是啊。

Uh-huh.

只要再开一小段路，离开 Goblin Valley，就到了小野马窄缝峡谷。

If you drive just a little beyond Goblin Valley, you get to the Little Wild Horse Slot Canyon.

对。

Mhmm.

真的特别震撼。

And it's so impressive.

那峡谷里有一段，你连双脚都并不到一块儿，挤得死死的。

I mean, there's a part of that slot canyon where you can't even put your two feet right next to each other.

墙跟墙之间，就剩五六英寸宽。

Like, you've got you've got, like, five inches or six inches between the walls.

嗯嗯。

Uh-huh.

你知道吗，你得挤着过去，

You know, that you're squeezing through,

对吧？

right?

就像《狮子王2》里，帕夏和变成骆驼的皇帝挤在墙缝里往前挪的样子，你懂吧？

It's like on Emperor's new groove when they're when when Pasha and the emperor in his llama form are like pushing up against each other against the walls, you know, trying to go.

对，太棒了。

Yeah, cool.

没错，你得一只脚踩在另一只前面，拼命收腹缩胸才能挤过去，这峡谷真的特别震撼。

Yeah, I mean, you're like one foot in front of the other and sucking in as as good as you can to get through there, and that is a really impressive slot canyon.

是啊。

Yeah.

真的特别美。

It's really beautiful.

我爸妈最近去了一趟，那会儿刚下过点雨，他们得蹚着三四英尺深的水往前走。

My parents did it recently, and there was a little bit of rain before, and they were, like, trudging through, like, three to four feet of water in there too.

所以，你去之前要是最近下过雨，那体验简直天差地别。

And so depending on the weather that you've had recently, your experience in that canyon can be vastly different.

整个这片区域其实带出一个特别关键的问题。

That whole area that brings up a very good point.

这片区域啊，

That whole area

最要紧的就是安全，

is safety,

特别容易突发洪水。

very susceptible to flash flooding.

只要天气预报说有雨，你就得赶紧查查有没有洪水警报，尤其是这一带——几年前就出过一次大洪水，死了人，像这样的事在南犹他州、西南犹他那边，真是屡见不鲜。

And so if there's any rain in the forecast or anything like you will want to be checking for flash flood warnings, anything for that area, because there was a couple years ago, there was a big flood that went through that that killed some people and it's there's always stories like that in Southwest Utah, know, Southern Utah, unfortunately.

所以啊，

So yeah,

一定要特别小心。

be very careful.

得留个心眼。

Be wary.

那天已经好几天没下雨了，天空晴朗得很。

It had been several days since the rain had come and it was clear sky.

所以他们觉得挺安全的。

So they felt safe about it.

但确实，遇到这种突发洪水的天气，你得格外当心。

But yeah, you definitely want to be careful of of weather flash flooding situations.

从国会礁国家公园去拱门国家公园的路上，还有一个特别棒的地方。

There's one more really cool thing before you get to Arches from Capitol Reef.

对。

Mhmm.

这可能是我最爱的国家公园景点之一。

Probably one of my favorite spots in any national park.

是的

Yeah.

我明白你说的是哪儿。

I know what you're talking about.

你不会的。

You won't.

你得离开主路才行。

It's not you gotta go off the main road.

离主路可远了。

So far off the main road.

你得走土路才能到这儿。

You're doing dirt roads to get out here.

但如果你对印第安文化感兴趣

But if you love Native American stuff

对

Mhmm.

只要是跟美洲原住民有关的，尤其是岩画和岩刻，那可太棒了。

Anything Native American, but especially petroglyphs and pictographs Mhmm.

那你非去马蹄峡谷不可。

Then you have got to go to Horseshoe Canyon.

哦，那真是一次特别棒的体验。

Oh, that was such an amazing experience.

马蹄峡谷，我不知道你有没有看过那里的照片。

So Horseshoe Canyon is I don't know if you've seen the pictures.

那里是现在被称为‘圣灵’的岩画所在地。

But basically, this is the home of what's known modernly as the Holy Ghost.

对。

Right.

那是巨大岩画群的一部分，上面有七英尺高的巨大人像。

And it's part of like this massive panel that has like these seven foot tall figures.

没错。

Mhmm.

要么是刻在石头上的，要么是画上去的。

Either carved or drawn into the rock.

对。

Yes.

如果你喜欢原住民艺术的话。

Like if you love the Native American art.

嗯，是啊。

Uh-huh.

我喜欢。

I do.

没错。

Yes.

我知道。

I know.

我也是。

So do I.

所以我们每次都会在这儿停下来。

That's why we always stop at these places.

但如果你喜欢印第安艺术这类东西，说实话，那是我见过最震撼的岩画之一。

But, you know, if you love Native American art and things like that, I mean, that was one of the most impressive panels that I have ever seen.

确实如此。

Oh, yeah.

走在马蹄峡谷里，简直就像在逛美术馆一样。

It was like walking through Horseshoe Canyon was like going through an art gallery.

对啊。

Yeah.

峡谷里头还分好几片区域呢。

Like, they have different sections of this canyon.

这些岩画离地得有十几米到三十米高。

You're talking up, like, 50 to a 100 feet on these canyon walls.

那些原住民——不管是祖先普韦布洛人还是别的谁——能把这些岩画刻在或画在那么高的岩壁上，真是不可思议。

You know, these Native Americans, these ancestral Puebloans or whoever they were that had carved or painted or however they got these rock panels, this rock art up there, but it was amazing.

整个峡谷的不同区域到处都是。

It's just all over the canyon in different sections of it.

简直像在大都会艺术博物馆里散步一样。

It's like you're walking through the Met in a lot of ways.

太酷了。

It was so cool.

是的。

Yeah.

对。

Yeah.

真的太震撼了。

That was so impressive.

所以那儿绝对是个值得停下的地方，尤其是你有车能开到那儿的话。

So that's that's a stop, especially if you have a vehicle that can get you there.

再往前走，你就会到格林河镇，那儿有个特别棒的约翰·韦斯利·鲍威尔博物馆。

But then beyond that, you know, you'll get to the town of Green River, which has a really impressive John Wesley Powell Museum.

对。

Yes.

确实如此。

It does.

就是那个独臂人，最早探索科罗拉多河和大峡谷的那位。

The one armed man who explored the Colorado River and the Great Grand Canyon.

你懂的。

You know?

这博物馆太棒了，真的特别棒。

It's an awesome it's an awesome museum.

是啊。

Yeah.

我们特别喜欢停在那里，多了解了解他，特别有意思。

We like stopping there and learning more about him, so that's really fun.

从那儿往南开，就能到摩押地区，那里有拱门国家公园和峡谷地国家公园。

And then from there, you cut down to the Moab area, which is home to both Arches And Canyonlands National Park.

没错。

Right.

拱门国家公园的拱形地貌简直太丰富了，而且拱门特别密集。

And Arches National Park, it's an amazing assortment, and it's so dense with arches.

我觉得这可能是世界上拱门密度最高的地方了。

I think it has the highest density of arches anywhere in the world.

公园范围内就有两千多个拱门。

It's got over 2,000 arches just within the park boundaries.

美得没话说。

And so it's absolutely gorgeous.

实在太美了。

It's so beautiful.

很多人从犹他州西边往东边走，都会专门绕道来这里。

It's probably the place that most people are heading to on their way from, like, the West Side Of Utah over to the East Side Of Utah.

是啊。

Oh, yeah.

人人都想去拱门国家公园。

Everybody wants to go to Arches.

就算你平时不爱徒步，到了那儿也一定要去走走细拱步道。

While you're there, you need to hike the Delicate Arch Trail even if you don't hike.

没错。

Yes.

一定要爬到细拱那儿去看看，因为那可是犹他州车牌上的标志啊。

Try to get up to Delicate Arch because it like, you see it on the Utah license plate.

照片里你肯定见过好多次了。

You've seen it on pictures.

但你亲眼看到的那一刻，才会发现，再美的照片也完全没法跟真的一比。

It just is not anything close to what you've seen until you can see it in person.

任何艺术作品都还原不了细拱的原貌。

No artistic rendition of the Delicate Arch stands up to the original.

我觉得，这可能是全美国最让我心灵震撼的地方之一，一到那儿，整个人都被填满了。

That is one of the places in the entire country, I feel like, where I get there, and it's just like my whole soul is filled.

是啊。

Yes.

真的不知道该说什么了。

Like, there's just no words.

这是我最棒的经历之一，因为徒步去精灵拱门，到了那儿你就忍不住感叹：天啊。

It's one of my favorite experiences because hiking to Delicate Arch is like you get there, and it's just like, sheesh.

对啊。

Yeah.

太棒了。

It's so cool.

太震撼了。

Impressive.

没错。

Yeah.

那儿人很多，除非你一大早就到，不然肯定得跟一堆人挤着看精灵拱门，但这绝对是整个大环线之旅里最难忘的亮点之一。

It's a busy spot, and you'll be sharing the view of the Delicate Arch with a lot of people unless you get there, like, really early in the morning, but it'll be one of your highlights of this whole Grand Circle trip.

绝对值得。

It's so worth it.

当然了。

For sure.

拱门国家公园里能玩的东西可多了。

There's a lot you can do in Arches.

好多拱门就在路边，根本不用怎么徒步就能看到。

There are a lot of, like, roadside arches or arches that don't require much hiking.

这个公园特别适合带孩子来。

This park is one of my favorites for taking kids.

没错。

Yep.

因为节奏特别快，走走看看就完了。

Because there's just you know, it's really fast paced.

对啊。

Mhmm.

你很快就能逛完这些地方。

You get through things quickly.

如果你不想走太远，其实不用在步道上花太多时间。

You know, you're not spending a ton of time out on the trails or anything if you don't want to.

路边就能看到好多景点，简直太震撼了。

You know, you're seeing a lot of stuff roadside, and it's just incredibly impressive.

是的。

Yeah.

太棒了。

It's so cool.

然后你还能去我最爱的犹他国家公园，就在同一个区域。

And then you get to go to my favorite Utah National Park, and it's, like, in the same area.

拱门和峡谷地国家公园简直就是隔壁邻居。

Arches and Canyonlands are literally next door neighbors.

太棒了。

It's so cool.

峡谷地是我最爱的国家公园。

And Canyonlands is my favorite national park.

而且，去岛屿天空的路上，峡谷地外面就有一个停车点，叫死马角州立公园。

But, also, just there's a stop right outside of Canyonlands on your way up to Islands In The Sky Island In The Sky called Dead Horse Point State Park.

你连着念五遍试试。

Say that five times fast.

我知道。

I know.

这名字真够绕口的。

That's it's it's a mouthful.

死马角州立公园。

Dead Horse Point State Park.

我倒是能好好念清楚这个名儿。

I can really focus on saying that.

那儿能俯瞰科罗拉多河，景色美极了。

And it's got this beautiful view of the Colorado River.

河流在这里拐了个弯，当地人叫它‘鹅颈’，景色美得不得了。

And as it's it does this bend, if they call it the Gooseneck, and it's gorgeous view.

《末路狂花》里那辆汽车冲下悬崖的场景，就是在这儿拍的。

It's where they actually filmed the scene in Thelma and Louise when they drive their car off the cliff.

好多老西部片都用死马点州立公园的景色来冒充大峡谷。

And a lot of old western films have used the view from Dead Horse Point State Park to resemble the Grand Canyon in their western film.

所以你逛峡谷地的时候，真该在这儿停一停，就在你正式进入‘天空之岛’之前。

And so it's a great stop while you're in the Canyonlands area right before you actually get to the official island in the sky area of Canyonlands.

等你终于爬到天空之岛的顶端，才算真正进了峡谷地，四下望去，各个观景点都美得让人屏息，还能看到各种震撼的地貌。

And so once you're finally up at the top of Island In The Sky, you know, you're in Canyonlands, you're looking at all over the different viewpoints, it's such a beautiful area, and you can see some amazing land formations.

在公园不同区域，你能清楚看到科罗拉多河和格林河，它们最后会汇在一起。

You can see actually, in different sections of the park up there, you can see the Colorado River or the Green River, and they eventually join together.

虽然在天空之岛上看不见汇合点——那得再往里走一段，但这两条河把这片土地雕琢得如此壮丽，真是我最爱的犹他国家公园景点。

You know, you can't see it from Island In The Sky because it happens a little bit deeper into the park itself, but it's just so beautiful that these two rivers carved this amazing landscape, and it's my favorite place in all the Utah National Parks.

我在峡谷地最喜欢干的事儿。

My favorite thing to do in Canyonlands.

哎呀，这下我可得倒回去想想了，真不好说。

Well, oh, that that's hard now that I'm backpedaling.

我真不知道能不能挑出个最爱的。

I don't know if I can choose a favorite.

这话可说得够大胆的。

Bold statement.

确实是。

It was.

所以……

So

这主意够大胆的啊，棉花。

It's a bold move, cotton.

之前咱们聊过的马蹄峡谷，就是那个有《圣灵》和大画廊壁画的地方，严格来说也属于峡谷地公园。

Horseshoe Canyon that we talked about before with the holy ghost, the great gallery panel and stuff that actually technically is part of Canyonlands.

对。

Right.

但大峡谷地区还分好几个区域。

But then Canyonlands has different districts.

地方大得离谱。

It's so big.

对啊。

It's Mhmm.

基本上是被河流隔开的。

It's separated by the rivers, basically.

所以‘天空之岛’是大家最常去的区域。

So Island In The Sky is the main district that people go to.

我在那儿最喜欢的就是开白岩路。

And my favorite thing to do there is drive the White Rim Road.

是啊。

Yeah.

真够冒险的。

So adventurous.

这条路again，得开高底盘的车才行。

This road, again, you need an a high clearance vehicle.

得租辆吉普车之类的。

You need to rent a jeep or something.

这地方特别流行开吉普车。

Jeeping is huge in this area.

吉普路线多得是。

There are so many Yeah.

你能玩的吉普路线多到数不清。

Jeeping trails that you can do.

但这条路线会带你往下深入一层峡谷，离河更近了。

But, this one, you drop down a layer in the canyons, and you're getting closer to the river.

还有一条路，简直就贴着峡谷边缘走。

And then there's this road that just I mean, it just follows the edge of the canyon.

对。

Right.

悬崖。

The cliff.

悬崖边上，有时候真有点吓人。

The cliff's edge, and sometimes it's a little scary.

确实有几处挺惊险的，但我们从来没觉得不安全。

It is a little, in a few places, but we we never felt unsafe.

就是特别震撼。

It's just incredibly impressive.

对。

Mhmm.

风景、宁静，还有置身其中的整个体验，对我来说都太神奇了。

The scenery, the solitude, the entire experience of just being out there is so magical to me.

所以我特别喜欢。

So I love that.

我另一个最爱的活动。

My other favorite thing to do.

如果你去的话，得先开车往摩押以南走，到峡谷地国家公园的针区，那其实是峡谷地的另一个区域。

So if you go, you actually have to drive South Of Moab and you go to the Needles District Of Canyonlands, which is just another part of Canyonlands.

对。

Yep.

那地方可大了。

And it's a huge place.

那里才有真正壮观、超棒的徒步路线，比如德鲁伊拱门或者切斯勒公园。

But that's where you get, like, those big, epic, amazing hiking trails in Canyonlands, such as Druid Arch or Chesler Park.

这一带还有好多特别棒的徒步小径，简直没得说。

Some of these really, I don't know, fantastic hiking trails in this area.

我知道，太酷了。

I know it's so cool.

峡谷地和拱门不一样，拱门就是以拱门出名。

Canyonlands is so Arches is all about arches.

名字里就带着呢。

It's in the name.

峡谷之地最厉害的就是层层叠叠的峡谷地貌。

Canyonlands is all about layers of Canyon.

比如天空之岛，那是最顶端的部分，然后下面是针状区。

And so the Island Of The Sky, it's the very top, you know, then you've got the needles.

你有时候会深入到这些峡谷里头，再往下是迷宫区，但它们全都是彼此隔开的。

You're kind of down in some of these Canyon formations, then you got the maze, but they're all separated from each other.

你根本没法通过公园内部从一个区走到另一个区，环境太恶劣了。

And you almost like, you can't get to these other sections by going through the park because it's such a harsh environment.

河流把一切都冲得七零八落，层层岩层分明，根本没法互通。

Everything has been so torn apart by the river, and you've got all these different layers, and there's no way to get to each other.

太酷了。

It's so cool.

我都能说上半天，不过我得憋着点。

I could talk for a long time, and I'm going to restrain myself.

我就不多说了，总之，峡谷之地绝对值得一去。

I will keep myself in in check here and just tell you that Canyonlands, totally worth it.

那里还有拱门呢。

You've got Arches in there too.

还有峡谷。

You've got Canyon.

有河流。

You've got River.

有壮丽的景观。

You've got vistas.

好多精彩的东西，不管你喜欢啥，这儿都能满足你。

It's got so many great things, and it's got a lot of just a lot for everybody.

摩押地区，就是摩押市，就在拱门和峡谷地旁边。

The Moab area, which Moab is the city that's right there, right next to Arches and Canyonlands.

那儿能玩的东西实在太多了。

I mean, there's just so much to do right there.

摩押的餐厅很棒，活动也多，你想玩的户外项目，基本都能找到。

Moab has great restaurants, lots of activities, any type of outdoor activity, pretty much that you want, you can find there.

所以啊，光是莫阿布这一带，你就完全能花上好长时间慢慢逛。

So I mean, that stop, I mean, you could easily spend a really long time just exploring that Moab area.

没错。

Right.

咱们接着说。

But moving on.

对。

Yeah.

咱们才走了一半而已。

We're only like halfway.

这次公路旅行，我们现在刚走了一半。

We're like halfway through the road trip at this point.

已经跑了不少地方，看了好多绝妙的景致。

We've covered so much ground and done so many amazing things.

这就是为什么大环线这么震撼的原因。

This is why the Grand Circle is such an epic road trip.

这本身就是那种事。

And it's just one of those things.

带上牛肉干，出发吧。

Pack your beef jerky and get on this trip.

我们一心只想让大家少刷屏幕，多去国家公园，还专门设计了详细的行程帮你实现。

We are on a crusade to get people off their screens and into the national parks, and we have fully planned out itineraries to help you do just that.

不过得说一句，Dirt in My Shoes的行程可不适合所有人。

But I will say, a Dirt in My Shoes itinerary isn't for everybody.

对。

Yeah.

如果你只想在营地或酒店里待着，中午骑骑车、游游泳，那我们这份按小时安排的行程真不适合你。

If you wanna hang out at the campground or the hotel in the middle of the day to ride bikes or relax in the pool, our hour by hour itineraries are not for you.

我们不教你从车窗里看公园。

We don't show you how to see the parks through your windshield.

我们不搞走马观花。

We don't do drive bys.

我们可不是给你列两三个活动就完事了。

We don't give you a couple of activities and then call it good.

我们带你真正踩上土地，开启难忘的冒险。

We help you put your boots on the ground and have amazing adventures.

我们让你避开人潮，打卡最热门的景点，同时还会带你深入公园腹地，去看那些大多数人连听都没听说过的秘境。

We make sure you see the most popular spots without all the crowds, but we also take you deep into the national parks to see things most people don't even know about.

你全身心投入冒险的时候，根本没人会想看手机屏幕。

And you'll be so distracted by your adventures that no one will even want to be looking at their screens.

你离开公园时肯定会累得腰酸背痛，这肯定跑不了。

You'll leave the park feeling a bit tired and sore, for sure.

但你带走的，会是一辈子都忘不了的回忆。

But you'll also leave with memories that will last a lifetime.

你会亲身体会到，真正沉浸在一个国家公园里的感觉有多神奇——朋友，这真不是钱能买来的。

You'll know firsthand how magical it feels to truly immerse yourself in a national park, and that, my friend, is priceless.

如果你想要和最在乎的人一起体验这样的旅程，那就让我们来教你怎么做。

If this is the experience you want to have with the people you love most, let us show you how.

今天就去 shop.dirtinmyshoes.com 下载你的逐小时行程安排，用代码 podcast 可享九折优惠。

Get your hour by hour itinerary today at shop.dirtinmyshoes.com, and use the code podcast for 10% off.

我们现在要离开犹他州了。

We're leaving Utah now.

对。

Yep.

从莫阿布出发，你得往上走，翻过山岭。

From Moab, you kinda go up and over.

一路往科罗拉多方向走，经过大章克申那一带。

You go into Colorado past, like, the Grand Junction area.

再往南走，就会碰到一个我觉得特别被低估的国家公园。

You go south, and that's when you hit a park that I think just is so extremely underrated.

没错。

Oh, yeah.

那就是格林河大峡谷国家公园。

And that is Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park.

对。

Yes.

那地方真是少数几个让我站在悬崖边走路时，真真切切感到头晕目眩的地方。

It is it's probably one of the few places that has given me legitimate vertigo as I was walking next to the cliff's edge.

我还记得我们第一次去黑峡谷那些观景台的时候。

I remember the first time we went to some of those viewpoints at Black Canyon.

我们俩都忍不住说：‘哇哦。’

Both both of us are like, oh, woah.

胃里翻江倒海，脑袋里就一个念头：天啊，这悬崖也太陡了吧。

Your stomach is like rolling and yeah, your head is just like, oh, that is such a steep cliff.

对。

Yes.

而且很多地方，给各位家长提个醒，根本没装护栏。

And a lot of them for you parents out there do not have barriers.

所以确实有点吓人。

And so it can be a little scary.

我们第一次去那儿的时候还带着俩小不点，紧张得不行，结果我儿子都吐槽：‘爸，你把我手攥太紧啦’

You know, we had two littles at the time when we first visited, and we're just like, god, my son was like, dad, you're holding on to my hand too tight.

‘你都快把我骨头捏碎了’

You're breaking my bones.

毕竟我和约翰当时也吓得够呛

Because John and I are both freaking out too.

不过黑峡谷那边确实有不少超有意思的事可以体验

There's some really cool things to do there.

真的特别多

A lot

大部分都是观景点。

of it is viewpoints.

这个公园面积不大，但它其实分成了峡谷的两个不同的崖壁区域，还有一片河谷区域。

It is a smaller park, but it actually so you have the two different rims of the canyon, and then you have the river area as well.

而且你甚至能开车下到谷底的河边

And so you can actually you can drive down to the river at the bottom

是的

Mhmm.

那可真美。

Which is beautiful.

那条路可真陡。

That's a steep road.

对。

Yeah.

没错。

Yeah.

在黑峡谷，什么都讲究一个‘陡’字。

Everything the name of the game at Black Canyon is steep.

对。

Yes.

就是这么回事。

Exactly.

到处都特别陡。

Everything is steep.

悬崖壁简直陡得吓人。

The cliff faces are steep.

徒步小路也特别陡。

The hiking trails are steep.

这条路太陡了。

The road is so steep.

我这皮卡从来没这么倾斜过。

My truck has never been at such a steep angle before.

你开车下去之前。

Before you drive down there.

他们确实会提醒你。

They do warn you.

这感觉像啥样？

It's like a what do you think?

大概有百分之四十的坡度吧？

Like a 40% grade or something?

我记不清了。

I can't remember.

我也记不清了。

I can't remember.

我当时就想，往下开的时候，安全带死死拽着我，往上爬的时候又往回拉。

But I was like, I what going down, my seat belt was holding me in and coming back up.

我当时觉得，自己都快平躺了。

I was like You're laying

仰着。

back.

对啊。

Yeah.

这感觉就跟宇航员在航天飞机升空前一模一样。

This is how astronauts feel before the space shuttle gets blasted into space.

你知道吗，当你平躺在背上的时候。

You know, as you're laying flat on your back.

那个公园太棒了。

That park is so cool.

我超爱那个公园。

I love that park.

我们去那儿露营过。

We camped there.

露营地特别舒服。

The campground was super nice.

我们吃了超棒的喜马拉雅菜。

We had the best Himalayan food.

天哪。

Oh my gosh.

就是蒙特罗斯镇上的那家印度菜。

The Holi food in Montrose, the town right there.

是啊。

Yeah.

你要是看过那部电影就好了，我记得叫《最后一个假期》， starring 奎恩·拉蒂法，讲的是她以为——

We had if you've ever seen the movie, I think it's called the holiday with Queen Latifah, where she thinks

最后一个假期。

Last holiday.

对，就是《最后一个假期》。

The last holiday.

嗯？

Right?

她啊，为了不剧透，我就先不说太多。

Where she she not to spoil anything.

她觉得自己得了癌症，可能活不了多久了。

She she thinks she's gonna die from cancer or something like that.

于是她跑到一个特别高档的地方，把全部积蓄都花在了一家豪华餐厅和酒店上。

And so she goes to this super swanky place and just spends her life savings at this nice restaurant and hotel, basically.

她就不停地点菜，一道接一道，恨不得把菜单上所有的菜都尝一遍。

And so she just keeps ordering food, like, entree after entree after entree because she just wants to try everything on the menu.

我们在这家喜马拉雅餐厅，干的简直就是同样的事。

That's basically what we did here at this Himalayan restaurant.

那家餐厅真的太棒了。

Oh, that restaurant was so good.

我们会在节目笔记里放上链接，你们要是想去可以看看。

We'll link it in the show notes if you wanna go there.

好的。

Okay.

然后从黑峡谷出发。

And then from Black Canyon.

这一段大环线，我真的被接下来这段风景彻底震撼了。

So this part of the Grand Circle, I feel like I was so wowed by this next section.

从黑峡谷开车去梅萨维德的时候，

And basically, as you're driving from Black Canyon, you're trying to get to Mesa Verde.

对

Mhmm.

从那儿过去有几条路可选，但我们特别想走尤雷那条线。

And you go through there's a couple different routes you could take, but we really wanted to go through Yure.

嗯哼

Uh-huh.

尤雷是个小镇，坐落在圣胡安山脉里，那是科罗拉多州最高的山脉之一。

Yuray is little town up in the San Juan Mountains, which are some of the tallest mountains in Colorado.

没错。

Right.

它藏在山里头，风景美得跟欧洲似的。

And it's tucked up in there, and it looks like you're in Europe.

我的天，简直太美了。

I mean, it's just gorgeous.

那儿还有温泉。

There's hot springs there.

那里还能徒步旅行。

There's hiking there.

那儿能干的事儿多着呢。

There's all sorts of stuff you can do there.

美得没话说。

It's just beautiful.

是啊。

Yeah.

所以我们特别喜欢尤雷镇。

So we love the town of Yuray.

但如果你继续开车往西尔弗顿方向走，就会经过百万美元公路。

But if you drive beyond Yuray, and you're heading towards Silverton, that's when you go over the Million Dollar Highway.

那路的价值可远不止一百万美元。

Which was worth way more than a million dollars.

确实如此。

It was.

太疯狂了。

It so crazy.

我们其实没怎么提前计划过这条路，因为一般开车经过那片区域，大家都会直接去泰勒瑞德那边，走主要公路就行。

It's not something I feel like that we really, like, preplanned to do because most of the time when you're driving in that area, instead of going into your a you'll go over to like Telluride and and down that way and kind of stay on more of the main roads.

对啊。

Right.

但你这条路线更像是条小岔道。

But your a is kind of like a little side path that you take.

而百万美元公路就是一条穿行在群山之间的路。

And then the Million Dollar Highway is just this route through these massive mountains.

风景简直绝了。

The views are just epic.

是啊。

Yeah.

还有巨大的瀑布。

Big waterfalls.

雪顶山峰，看你什么时候去。

Snow capped peaks depending on the time you're there.

你还记得那片石头颜色特别漂亮吗？

Do you remember the rocks in that area were really cool colors?

是啊。

Uh-huh.

然后你

And then you

有时候真觉得这路居然修到这儿来了。

believe you're on the road sometimes.

简直不敢相信，路居然能修到这么高的地方。

You're like, I can't believe the road comes up here.

对啊。

Yeah.

接着你就往银矿镇去，那是个老矿区小镇。

And then you're and then you're heading to Silverton, which is an old mining town.

所以这地方历史可真丰富。

So it's just it's got a lot of a history.

对啊。

Mhmm.

风景美极了。

Beautiful views.

开车这条路简直太棒了。

Really, really cool driving route.

没错。

Yeah.

我觉得‘百万美元公路’这名字，大概是因为这儿有深厚的采矿历史，还有老西部的那些故事。

And the I think the reason they call it the Million Dollar Highway actually is referring to kind of the old mining history in the area, kind of the Old West history.

在到那儿之前，路上还有个约翰·韦恩的打卡点，我们特地专程去拍了照。

And there's actually before you get to your way, there's a John Wayne stop, so which we all we had to make sure we hit that.

所以在你

So before you

对哦，我想起来了。

Oh, that's right.

我居然把这事儿给忘了。

I forgot about this one.

是啊。

Yeah.

这家店叫‘亡命之徒餐厅’，这片地方当年就是拍《真龙虎英雄》原版的地方。

It's called the Outlaw Restaurant, And this area is actually where they filmed the original true grit.

拍戏间隙，他老在这儿泡着。

And so he would hang out at this restaurant in between filming.

所以如果你喜欢约翰·韦恩，喜欢西部片，那这家餐厅绝对是你的朝圣之地。

And so, it's just if if you like John if you like Western stuff, if you're a John Wayne fan, this restaurant, this is the spot.

这儿就是你的地盘。

This is your spot.

我真不敢相信我居然把这事儿给忘了。

I can't believe I forgot about that.

我们这儿可有不少约翰·韦恩的铁粉。

We have some major John Wayne fans.

没错，真有不少。

Yes, we do.

家里人给你撑腰，你这小子真行。

Family fill your hand you son of a gun.

约翰还真有个超大的腰带扣，上面刻着

John actually has a giant belt buckle that says

杜克。

Duke.

是啊。

Yeah,

他平时都戴着。

that he wears.

天哪。

Oh my gosh.

所以啊，那次停留挺有意思的。

So, yeah, that was a fun stop.

说实话，那里的食物也没啥特别出彩的，但那种历史氛围和流行文化感真的特别带劲。

I just you know, I don't remember the food being like anything out of this world, but just the history and and the, you know, the pop culture of it was really fun.

是啊。

Yeah.

这地方真不错。

It's a great stop.

太好玩了。

It's it's so much fun.

你想想，能一下子穿越回那个年代，加入约翰·韦恩的队伍，去追击汤姆·钱尼和内德·佩珀，多过瘾啊。

You know, it's just it's a great way to kinda put yourself back in time a little bit, join John Wayne's posse, and go after Tom Cheney and Ned Pepper.

对吧？

You know?

真的特别有意思。

So it's it's a lot of fun.

这真是个超棒的西部小站。

It's a great western little place to stop.

是的。

Yeah.

我们超爱尤雷。

We love Yuray.

我们超爱百万美元公路。

We love the Million Dollar Highway.

离主线就二十分钟车程左右。

It's like, I don't know, twenty minutes off the regular path.

对。

Mhmm.

你往梅萨维德开的时候顺路就能到，绝对值回票价。

As you're traveling that down to Mesa Verde, but totally worth it.

没错。

Absolutely.

绝对值回票价。

Totally worth it.

太美了。

So pretty.

那这就带我们到了梅萨维德。

So then that does bring us to Mesa Verde.

是啊，我超爱这个国家公园。

Yes, I love this national park.

它跟其他你去过的任何地方都完全不一样。

It is so different than a lot of other places that you'll ever go.

特别棒的是，它纯粹就为一件事而存在——那就是古普韦布洛人的建筑、文化、历史，还有那些原住民的居所，全都原封不动地保存在这儿。

Oh, what's wonderful about it is it literally is dedicated to one thing, basically, you know, and it is the ancestral Pueblo buildings and culture and history and all of the native native American dwellings right there.

能亲身了解这段历史，亲身体验一下，真的太震撼了。

And it is so incredible to learn about the history and to experience it firsthand.

如果你去参观那些居所，比如悬崖宫殿，可以近距离看看，但一般不能进去里面。

And, you know, if you to take a tour through some of these, like, dwellings, like, can go next to Cliff Palace, but you can't necessarily go, like, into it.

但有些是可以进去的，规模也不小，特别震撼，也特别美。

But there are some of them that you can, and they're just as big, but they're so amazing and so beautiful.

整个体验真的让人身临其境。

And it's a totally immersive experience.

一辈子都忘不了。

Unforgettable.

我超爱阳台屋。

I love balcony house.

那个是我最喜欢的。

That one's my favorite.

对啊。

Mhmm.

那儿的梯子可吓人了。

The ladders on that one are pretty scary.

你最好去看看阳台屋的照片。

Actually, see pictures of balcony house.

我得在社交媒体上发一下，那个梯子就是直接钉在悬崖上，你只能硬着头皮往上爬。

I will post something on social because the ladder is just, like, bolted into the cliff, and you just you're just supposed to go up it.

对啊。

Right.

我觉得这真的特别贴近真实生活。

And I feel like that's, like, pretty true to life.

每次我去那些废墟，试着想象它鼎盛时期的样子，嗯。

Whenever I go to those ruins and try to imagine what it would have been like in its prime Mhmm.

你看那些模糊的台阶，或者他们直接在岩壁上凿出来的路，对吧。

You know, I I mean, you see, like, the moky steps or, like, you know, where they've carved Right.

凿在悬崖上的台阶、梯子，这类东西。

Steps into the cliff, the ladders, you know, stuff like that.

他们能建出这么隐蔽的建筑，真不容易，嗯。

I mean, it took a lot for them to have such protected Mhmm.

建筑啊，是啊。

Buildings Yeah.

就在那些悬崖上面，你知道的。

Up in those cliffs, you know.

所以我特别喜欢阳台屋，因为它能让你真切感受到，从上面往下爬是什么感觉。

And so that's why I love balcony house because you get that feel of, like, what it would actually be like to try to get down Mhmm.

从高原顶部一路下到那些房屋。

From the top of the plateau down to the buildings.

没错。

Yeah.

所以那时候的人一定特别灵巧，肯定没有你那种固定在悬崖上的梯子，都是靠凿出来的台阶。

Those So people must have been so agile, man, because I'm sure they didn't have bolted in ladders, you know, like you said, the carved in steps.

你有时候看看那些地方。

Like, just look at that sometimes.

我光是想想就觉得自己肯定不行。

I'm just like, that would be the end of me.

懂的。

Know.

你能想象吗？你在高原上收集了东西，还得一路搬回家里。

Well, and can you imagine like trying to carry anything like you've been gathering on the top of the Mesa or whatever, you know, and you're trying to take it back to your house.

我的意思是，

I mean,

天哪。

oh my gosh.

是啊。

Yeah.

我平时走路就挺笨手笨脚的。

I'm pretty clumsy on my feet in all cases.

所以啊，现在能安全地参观，还能稍微体会一下一万两千年前住这儿是啥感觉，真挺有意思的。

And so, yeah, it's fun to be able to tour it in a safer way, but to still get a taste of what it would have been like had you lived there, you know, twelve thousand years ago.

对啊。

Yeah.

你想想，那时候有这么多男人。

Well, you've got all these guys.

整个文明都像在徒手攀岩一样。

The the whole civilization was free soloing.

你懂的。

You know?

就是那个叫啥来着？

Like like, what's his name?

天哪。

Oh my gosh.

就是网飞那个优胜美地的纪录片里。

From the Netflix special about Yosemite.

开凿出来的。

Tunneled.

亚历克斯他们那些人。

Alex and all.

天哪。

Oh my gosh.

是的

Yeah.

那时候人人都在无保护攀岩。

Everybody was free soloing back then.

太酷了。

So cool.

对。

Yeah.

梅萨维德就是那种你一辈子都忘不了的地方。

Mesa Verde is just one of those that you'll never forget it.

不会。

No.

你在那里时的感觉，永远都忘不了。

Never forget the way that you feel while you're there.

绕着梅萨维德转一圈。

Going on around from Mesa Verde.

这地方印第安文化和历史特别丰富，能看的东西特别多，我给你说几个值得去的选项吧。

So you've got a couple of different options here that I wanted to outline because, this area is so rich in Native American culture and history, and there are some really cool things you can see.

对。

Mhmm.

如果你从梅萨维德直接走常规路线去下一站——石化森林国家公园的话。

So if you just take the regular route that you would take from Mesa Verde to our next stop, which is Petrified Forest National Park

没错。

Yep.

那你就会经过希普罗克。

Then you will go through Shiprock.

希普罗克特别酷。

And Shiprock is really cool.

就是一座巨大的岩石塔。

It's a giant tower of rock.

我也不知道该怎么形容了。

I don't know how else to say it.