彭佩琪：打造快餐帝国

这个BBC播客由英国境外的广告支持。

This BBC podcast is supported by ads outside The UK.

男性空间是否进入了一个新阶段？

Has the manosphere entered a new phase?

走进奢华最大化、敲诈勒索以及一个叫克拉维克拉尔的男子的世界，探索一种奇特的网络语言如何塑造现代男性气质。

Step inside the world of lux maxing, mugging, and a guy called Clavicular, and discover how the rise of a weird internet language is shaping modern masculinity.

这是BBC的《全球故事》播客，我们一直在探究为什么男性审美正受到极右翼影响者的塑造。

This is the Global Story podcast from the BBC, and we've been finding out why men's beauty are being shaped by far right influencers.

请在bbc.com或您收听播客的任何平台收听《全球故事》。

Listen to the global story on bbc.com or wherever you get your podcasts.

现在可在BBC世界服务的纪录片中收听。

Available now on the documentary from the BBC World Service.

请和我一起，迈克·兰钦，聆听一个独特的和平社区的故事——这个社区由以色列犹太人和巴勒斯坦人组成，他们已共同生活了四十多年，如今如何应对10月7日哈马斯袭击和加沙战争带来的冲突与痛苦。

Join me, Mike Lanchin, as I hear how a unique peace community of Israeli Jews and Palestinians who've lived side by side for more than forty years has coped with the conflict and pain following the October seventh Hamas attacks and war in Gaza.

请在您收听BBC播客的任何平台搜索该纪录片立即收听。

Listen now by searching for the documentary wherever you get your BBC podcasts.

那是1983年。

It's 1983.

在美国加利福尼亚州南部的一个购物中心，一个新的美食广场正在向顾客开放，午餐高峰期即将开始。

In a shopping mall in Southern California, a new food court is being unveiled to shoppers, and the lunchtime rush is about to begin.

有一家摊位特别引人注目，售卖中餐，但别指望有桌边服务或庞大的菜单。

One outlet stands out serving Chinese food, but forget table service and sprawling menus.

相反，一排排菜肴整齐地摆放在玻璃柜台后的不锈钢蒸汽托盘上，闪闪发亮。

Instead, a neat row of dishes gleams on stainless steel steam trays behind a glass counter.

附近，一位拥有博士学位的工程师正盯着电脑屏幕上跳动的数字。

Nearby, a PhD trained engineer watches numbers flicker on a computerized toe.

她正在追踪哪些菜品畅销、菜品售出的速度，以及哪些组合会拖慢队伍。

She's tracking what sells, how fast dishes move, and which combos slow the line.

这不仅仅是一家餐厅的开业。

This isn't just a restaurant opening.

这是一场效率实验的现场实践。

It's an efficiency experiment in action.

而这些结果将永远改变美式中餐，并让这位工程师成为亿万富翁。

And the results will change Chinese American cuisine forever and make that engineer a billionaire.

欢迎收听BBC世界服务频道的《好坏亿万富翁》。

Welcome to Good Bad Billionaire from the BBC World Service.

每期节目，我们都会挑选一位亿万富翁，探究他们是如何赚到第一笔财富的。

Each episode, we pick a billionaire and we find out how they made their money.

我们将从零开始，追踪他们如何赚到第一个百万，再从百万迈向十亿。

We take them from zero to their first million, then from a million onto a billion.

我是西蒙·杰克。

I'm Simon Jack.

我是BBC的商业编辑。

I'm the BBC's business editor.

我是辛格·辛格，一名记者、作家和播客主持人。

And I'm Singh Singh, and I'm a journalist, author, and podcaster.

而当时观察着午餐高峰的那位工程师是钟佩琪，她与丈夫共同创立了名为‘熊猫快餐’的连锁店，这是美国最大的中式快餐连锁品牌。

And the engineer watching that lunch rush was Peggy Chung, who along with her husband co founded something called Panda Express, America's largest Chinese fast food chain.

现在英国还没有，但如果你去过美国，几乎肯定遇到过它们。

Now, it doesn't exist in The UK, but if you've been to America, you will almost certainly have come across one of them.

我猜在美国，它就像中餐界的麦当劳，对吧？

Am I right in thinking it's kinda like the McDonald's of Chinese food in The US?

没错。

Exactly.

它们出现在机场、购物中心、快餐窗口，而这对夫妇目前的身家高达74亿美元，使他们成为美国历史上最富有的餐饮业老板之一。

They're in airports, shopping malls, drive throughs, and the couple are currently worth $7,400,000,000, which makes them some of the richest restaurant owners in US history.

但她最初的职业生涯是为航空航天公司开发战场模拟器和计算机系统。

But she started her career working on battlefield simulators and computer systems for aerospace firms.

真好吃。

Yum.

佩吉很早就将工程学的逻辑应用到快餐业，借助早期的计算机系统和绩效指标进行管理，远早于如今盛行的‘数据驱动’成为企业流行语。

Peggy applied engineering logic though to fast food with early computer systems and performance metrics long before data driven, which is common these days, became a corporate buzzword.

Panda Express改变了数百万美国人体验中餐风味的方式。

And Panda Express changed how millions of Americans experienced Chinese flavors.

像橙子鸡肉这样的菜肴现在已经成为一种文化标配。

Dishes like orange chicken are now a cultural staple.

橙子鸡肉？

Orange chicken?

你从来没吃过吗？

Never had it?

我的意思是，我其实也没吃过，但我能想象它和酸甜鸡肉差别不会太大。

I mean, I've actually not had it, but I can imagine it's not that dissimilar from sweet and sour chicken.

是的。

Yeah.

但可能更甜一些，我觉得。

But sweeter, I think.

好的。

Okay.

而且颜色非常橙。

And very orange.

然而，他们的成功也引发了关于低工资和工作条件的质疑。

Well, their success has also come with questions, however, about low wages, working conditions.

但首先，让我们了解一下佩吉·钟是如何通过一道道橙子鸡，一步步赚到她的第一个百万美元的。

But first, let's find out how Peggy Chung engineered her first million one dish of Orange Chicken at a time.

佩吉·钟原名佩吉·香，1948年出生于缅甸（当时称为英属缅甸），那正是该国从大英帝国独立、局势动荡的时期。

Peggy Chung was born Peggy Siang in 1948 in Myanmar, then called Burma, and this was during a time of huge conflict as the country became independent from the British Empire.

佩吉的家人移居香港，父母双方都全职工作。

Peggy's family left for Hong Kong where both her parents worked full time.

她父亲是公关主管，母亲是旅行社职员。

Her dad was a PR executive and her mom was a travel agent.

当她大约两岁时，她和哥哥被送到中国漳州附近的乡村与祖父母一起生活，以便父母能全职工作。

When she was around two years old, she and her older brother were sent to live with their grandparents in the countryside near Zhangzhou, China, so their parents could work full time.

她深情地回忆起在中国与虔诚的基督教祖母共度的时光，而祖母在当时那个年代对女性来说，受教育程度可谓非同寻常，并且一直鼓励佩吉学习。

She fondly recalls her time in China with her devout Christian grandmother who was perhaps unusually for a woman at that time, well educated and encouraged Peggy's learning.

11岁时，佩吉搬回香港，与父母住在高层公寓里，这与她乡村的成长经历相比，可谓巨大的转变。

Aged 11, Peggy moved back to Hong Kong to live with her parents in their high rise apartment, which is a bit of a jolt, quite a move from her rural upbringing.

在学校，佩吉数学很好。

At school, Peggy was good at maths.

1967年，她进入位于美国堪萨斯州的一所小型卫理公会学院——贝克大学，主修数学。

And in 1967, she enrolled to study maths at Baker University, which is a small Methodist college in Kansas over in The United United States.

她说她选择这所学校，一方面是因为容易入学，另一方面是因为它具有支持性的基督教环境。

She said she picked it because, in her words, it was easy to get into, but also because of its supportive Christian environment.

记住，她是在宗教氛围中长大的。

Remember, was raised religious.

当她抵达堪萨斯时，她说最大的震撼是食物，因为她以前从未吃过披萨或墨西哥菜。

When she arrived in Kansas, she said the biggest shock was the food, saying that she'd never previously had pizza or Mexican food.

她很快结识了安德鲁·钟，一位同样来自国际的数学系学生，他出生在中国，在台湾和日本长大。

She soon met Andrew Chung, a fellow international math student who was born in China and had grown up in Taiwan and Japan.

他们相爱了，并计划一起毕业并结婚。

They fell in love and planned to graduate together and marry.

但由于他比她高一届，她不得不加快学业进度，三年就完成了原本需要四年才能完成的课程。

But as he was a year ahead of her, she had to speed up her studies and finished in three years instead of four.

谈谈你为爱做过的事。

Talk about the things you do for love.

后来，佩吉获得了一项全额奖学金，决定转学到俄勒冈州立大学完成学位，并留校攻读电气工程博士学位，专攻计算机模拟。

Well, after she was offered a full scholarship, Peggy decided to transfer to Oregon State University to complete her degree, and she stayed on to earn a doctorate in electrical engineering specialising in computer simulation.

是的。

Yeah.

中餐似乎离那很遥远，不是吗？

Chinese food seems a long way away from that, doesn't it?

与此同时，作为厨师的儿子，安德鲁在求学期间的假期里一直在纽约当服务员，他的父亲是一位备受尊敬的厨师，但并未拥有自己的生意。

Meanwhile, as the son of a chef, Andrew had worked as a waiter in New York during the holidays throughout his studies, and his father was a well respected chef, but hadn't owned his own business.

这很有趣，因为安德鲁决心要自己创业。

Interesting that, because Andrew was determined to set up a business for himself.

于是，安德鲁搬到加利福尼亚，帮助表弟经营一家位于好莱坞的中餐馆。

So Andrew moved to California to help his cousin run a Chinese restaurant in Hollywood.

但几个月后，安德鲁和表弟在工作上产生了分歧。

But after a few months, Andrew and his cousin had some work disagreements.

于是，安德鲁在加利福尼亚州帕萨迪纳找到了一家前咖啡店，将其改造成中餐馆经营。

So instead, Andrew found a former coffee shop to buy in Pasadena, California to run as a Chinese restaurant.

他和父亲——担任主厨——凑了6万美元，来自储蓄和银行贷款。

Him and his father, who would be the head chef, they scraped together $60,000 from savings, a bank loan.

他们在1973年开设了熊猫餐厅。

And they opened Panda Inn in 1973.

这里有一个有趣的历史背景。

Now this is an interesting historical context here.

之所以叫熊猫餐厅，是因为1972年美国总统理查德·尼克松历史性地访问了中国大陆，会见了江青，结束了两国长达二十多年的敌对关系。

Called the Panda Inn because US President Richard Nixon in 1972 had this historic trip to Mainland China where he met Jiang Mao, and it ended over two decades of pretty hostile relations between the countries.

这次访问之后，中国向美国赠送了两只大熊猫——兴兴和玲玲，作为后来被称为‘熊猫外交’的一部分。

And following that visit, China gifted The US two pandas, Xingxing and Ling Ling, as part of what became known as panda diplomacy.

有那么一瞬间，我还以为你叫了我的名字。

For a second there, thought you said my name.

我当时想：什么？

Was like, what?

是的

Yeah.

熊猫外交已经成为一个热门词汇，因为中国将超过20只熊猫赠送给九个不同国家，作为外交 outreach 的一种方式。

And panda diplomacy has become a bit of a buzzword because China gifted over 20 pandas to nine different countries as kind of a diplomatic outreach effort.

外交 outreach 的举措。

Outreach thing.

是的

Yeah.

在英国，任何国家新闻中，一对熊猫的到来都会排在新闻头条的前列。

And any national news in The UK, the arrival of a couple of pandas was, you know, pretty far up the running order in the news.

没错。

Yep.

是的。

Is.

绕着街区。

Around the block.

排队的人排到了街角去看熊猫。

Queues around the block to see the pandas.

不过，我了解到，有一段时间，中国不再赠送熊猫，而是开始租借，希望最终能把它们要回来。

Although, I I understand that at one point, rather than giving them away, they started to lend them, so they wanted them back in the the long run.

所以与其说是熊猫外交，不如说是熊猫金融。

So not so much panda diplomacy as panda banking.

这家餐厅变得受欢迎，是因为融合了中国四川菜的风格。

Well, the restaurant became popular because thanks to a combination of Chinese and Sichuan cuisine style.

因为当时美国大多数中餐馆提供的都是美式粤菜快餐。

Because most other Chinese restaurants in The US at the time were an American version of Cantonese fast food.

如果你想到像点心这样的东西，那就是粤菜。

So if you think of things like dim sum, that's Cantonese.

对。

Right.

但川菜通常味道更浓郁刺激。

But Sichuan cooking tends to be much more punchier.

它们有着强烈而浓郁的风味，比如前面提到的橙子鸡，就是受到甜酸鸡的启发。

They've got strong bold flavors like, you know, the aforementioned orange chicken is inspired by sweet and sour chicken.

至于粤菜，为了明确一下地域，比如香港就是粤菜地区。

And Cantonese, just so I'm clear about where regionally where we're talking, Hong Kong, for example, would be Cantonese.

是的。

Yes.

对吧？

Right?

还有广东，这是中国 mainland 的一部分。

And also Guangdong, which is a part of Mainland China.

明白了。

Got it.

安德鲁请了他的父母、兄弟和姐妹在熊猫餐厅无偿工作，佩吉在来访的周末也在这里帮忙。

Well, Andrew roped in his parents, his brother, his sister to work at the Panda Inn restaurant for free, and Peggy also worked at the restaurant on weekends when she visited.

她说自己其实并不太擅长这份工作。

She said she was not actually very good at it.

她说，起初我只是有限度地参与其中。

She said, I was there in a limited capacity at first.

我只能负责迎宾，而且我不是个称职的迎宾员，效率不高。

I could only do hosting, and I was not a good hostess, not very efficient.

我不会调鸡尾酒。

I couldn't make cocktail drinks.

但这并没有让安德鲁却步，因为到1975年，安德鲁和佩吉已经结婚，而她获得了电气工程博士学位。

But that didn't put off Andrew, because by 1975, Andrew and Peggy were married, and she had a PhD in electrical engineering.

在当时，这相当罕见。

That was pretty unusual for the time.

20世纪70年代中期，不到5%的工程学博士授予了女性，而她开发了一种计算机程序，利用算法扫描心脏X光片以帮助诊断心脏病——这离食物相去甚远。

Less than 5% of engineering PhDs in the mid-70s were awarded to women, and she developed a computer program that used an algorithm to scan heart x rays to help detect heart disease, again, long way from food.

她很快在航空航天制造商麦道公司找到了一份工作，她说：‘我们为空军构建了一个模拟战场的系统。’

She soon got a job at aerospace manufacturer McDonnell Douglas saying, we built a system to simulate a battlefield for the Air Force.

我喜欢这份工作，但有时我不得不工作到凌晨四点才能完成设计。

I enjoyed it, but sometimes I had to stay until 4AM to get the design done.

我觉得，如果你从事餐饮行业，有时候在厨房工作确实会感觉

I think if you work in the restaurant business, sometimes working in the kitchen does feel

就像在战场上一样。

like being on a battlefield.

我肯定这是真的。

I'm sure that's true.

几年后，安德鲁开了第二家熊猫餐馆，佩吉则在帕萨迪纳找到了一份离家更近的新工作，担任一家电子公司的软件部门经理。

Well, after a few years, Andrew opened a second Panda Inn, and Peggy got a new job closer to home in Pasadena as a software department manager at an electronics company.

但在1982年，她辞去了那份工作。

But in 1982, she left that job.

她要照顾三个年幼的女儿，于是每周只工作几个小时，帮忙处理熊猫餐馆的账目和工资。

She had three young daughters to look after, and she worked a few hours a week to help with Panda Inn's accounts and payroll.

1982年元旦，一群常客来到餐馆吃饭，准备去看一场重要的大学橄榄球赛。

Now, on New Year's Day nineteen eighty two, a group of regular customers came in to eat before a big college football game.

顺便说一下，这是美式足球。

That's American football, by the way.

那是加州大学洛杉矶分校橄榄球队主教练特里·多纳休的家人。

It was the family of UCLA football team head coach Terry Donahue.

他的兄弟帕特是格伦代尔盖勒里亚购物中心的开发商，非常喜欢熊猫快餐的食物，于是邀请钟氏夫妇在即将开放的美食广场开设一家分店。

His brother Pat was the developer of the Glendale Galleria Mall and loved Panda Inn food, so asked the Chungs if they would like to open an outlet in the soon to be launched food court.

当时，格伦代尔盖勒里亚是南加州最繁忙的购物中心之一，而这个新美食广场也是同类中的首批之一。

Glendale Galleria was one of Southern California's busiest malls at the time, and the new food court was one of the first of its kind.

因此，在商场开设门店给熊猫快餐带来了相对于传统正餐餐厅的巨大优势。

So opening a mall gave Panda Express one huge advantage over a traditional sit down restaurant.

如果你想象一家传统的正餐餐厅，你得想办法吸引顾客进来，但商场本身就能保证大量的客流量。

So if you imagine a traditional sit down restaurant, you're kind of trying to entice people in, but malls basically guarantee this kind of heavy foot traffic.

购物者处于一种快速决策的心态，他们希望就地坐下用餐。

Shoppers are in this kind of quick decision mindset, so they wanna sit down.

食物已经在那里了。

The food's already there.

他们不想离开商场去吃饭。

They don't wanna leave to eat.

而美食广场提供了这种视觉展示和免费试吃，让顾客可以轻易地凭冲动选择，这与点中餐外卖不同，后者你可能并不清楚自己会得到什么。

And food cots offer this kind of visual display and free samples, so it makes it easy for customers to just choose on impulse, unlike ordering Chinese takeaway where you might not know what you're getting.

是的。

Yeah.

而且，这真的很有趣，不是吗？

And also, that's so interesting, isn't it?

因为你的决策时间窗口非常短。

Because your decision making window is really tight.

所以你必须要有能脱颖而出的东西。

So you've gotta have something that stands out.

你必须要有独特的东西。

You gotta have something unique.

你必须要有看起来美观的东西。

You gotta have something that looks nice.

佩吉看到了一个机会，对她这位工程师来说这显而易见，但对其他人来说却并不明显。

And Peggy saw an opportunity that seemed obvious to her as an engineer, but that wasn't so obvious to everyone else.

快餐店需要一个系统。

Fast food restaurants required a system.

因此，她确保新的熊猫快餐会使用POS系统。

So she ensured that the new Panda Express would use a POS system.

这代表销售点，本质上是一种计算机化的收银机。

This stands for point of sale, essentially a computerized till.

而当时距离IBM推出首个销售点技术才仅仅两年。

And it was only two years after IBM introduced the very first point of sale technology.

所以她正处于技术的最前沿。

So she's right at the cutting edge here.

这些POS系统附带的是通用软件。

Well, these POS systems came with generic software.

但佩吉，记住，她知道自己在做什么，于是她自己编写了程序，以便熊猫快餐能更准确地追踪销售情况，找出哪些菜品卖得更好。

But Peggy, remember, she knows what she's doing, so she wrote her own programs so Panda could more accurately track sales and spot which dishes were selling better than others.

佩吉对《洛杉矶时报》说，刚开始时很混乱，尤其是当大家都紧张并按错按钮时，但这一切让整个流程变得更加高效。

And Peggy told the LA Times, it was confusing at the beginning, especially when everyone got nervous and pressed the wrong button, but it made everything more efficient.

我们早已习惯技术渗透到每个企业的方方面面

We are very used to the idea of technology permeating every bit of every business

在我们的生活中，

in our life,

并对此习以为常。

and you take it for granted.

但在那个早期阶段，当这种技术刚刚被引入时，实际上是非常开创性的。

But that early, when they've only just introduced this kind of technology, is quite trailblazing, actually.

你可以想象，当时很多餐厅只是用纸质记录，这是毫无疑问的。

You can imagine that a lot of restaurants were just keeping paper records in a big For sure.

此外，安德鲁也在做一件事。

Well, Andrew was also doing something.

他将最受欢迎的熊猫午餐菜品精简为更少的选择。

So he adapted the most popular panda in lunch dishes into a smaller selection of options.

他们挑选了那些可以快速准备、放在蒸汽保温台上仍能保持风味和口感的菜品。

So they chose dishes that could be prepped quickly, sit on the steam table service line without losing flavor or texture.

没人想要盘子里有一堆湿漉漉的蔬菜。

Nobody wants a soggy vegetable on their plate.

佩吉观察了厨房的操作流程，并帮助优化了烹饪和准备系统，使这些菜品能够快速制作。

And Peggy looked at the kitchen processes and helped to streamline the cooking and preparation system so these dishes could be made quickly.

佩吉说，作为工程师，我们受过训练，要以最佳方式完成所有事情。

Peggy said, as an engineer, we are trained to get everything done in the best way we can.

佩吉的一项关键创新是采用了开放式厨房设计，并配备了一个大型玻璃前柜冰箱，里面装满新鲜蔬菜，让人们能清楚看到自己将吃到什么。

One of Peggy's key innovations was introducing this open kitchen design and a large glass front refrigerator stocked with fresh vegetables so people can see what they're gonna get.

同样，这在当时相当不寻常。

Again, that was pretty unusual.

这基本上是在向顾客表明：嘿，我们做的都是新鲜的。

That is basically a calling card to say, hey, we make things fresh.

但当时存在一个问题，一些厨师做菜的方式不同。

But there was an issue in the sense that some chefs were cooking things differently.

有人做炒面时用浅色酱油，其他人则偏爱深色酱油。

So one would cook chow mein noodles with a light soy sauce, others wanted a dark soy sauce.

于是她让他们讨论清楚，直到达成一个标准化的食谱。

So she had them kind of talk it out until they decided a standardized recipe.

现在我知道了这个国家一位快餐连锁创始人的事，他告诉我，关键是要让菜品能够被复制，这样无论你走进哪家分店，都能得到完全一样的东西，和你预期的另一家店的味道一致。

Now I know someone who founded a fast food chain in this country, and one of the key things he told me was that you have to have the replication of the dish so that when you go into one outlet, you get exactly the same thing and you're expecting the same thing as you would get in another one.

所以这就是标准化。

So that's standardizing.

我知道我会得到什么。

I know what I'm gonna get.

对顾客来说至关重要。

Super important to customers.

很快，他们就开始追踪任何新的购物中心或美食广场的开业，并竞标最佳位置。

And soon they were tracking any new mall or food court openings and bidding for the best spots.

三年内，他们开设了九家分店。

In three years, they had nine outlets.

安德鲁说，我迷上了购物中心，他们用Panda Inn和第一家Panda Express的利润来资助这次扩张。

Andrew said, I became addicted to malls, and they used profits from the Panda Inn and the first Panda Express outlets to fund this expansion.

所以他们没有任何外部投资者。

So they didn't have any outside investors.

他们拥有大量股份。

They owned a lot.

这真的非常了不起。

That's really remarkable.

每开一家新店，钟氏夫妇都会派一支成熟的团队前往新地点，帮助筹建并暂时运营。

And with every new store, the Chungs would take an established team to the new location to help set it up and run it for a while.

按照佩吉的说法，每个团队都会在一个公寓里住上一个月，你的主管可能和你睡在同一个房间里，而不是住酒店。

In Peggy's words, every team would live in one apartment for a month, and your supervisor might sleep in the same room as you rather than go to hotels.

没有人抱怨缺乏隐私。

No one complained about not having privacy.

这培养了团队精神。

It built team spirit.

我们有一些人最初加入时是厨房厨师或服务员，如今已成为公司的副总裁。

We have people who joined us as kitchen chefs and waitresses who are now vice presidents of the company.

是的

Yeah.

这种团队精神对于正在成长的企业来说至关重要。

That that kind of esprit de corps thing is so important with a growing business.

再次提到我之前说过的那个人，他说，建立正确的文化，让每个人都能感受到自己是团队、是家庭的一部分，这在企业发展过程中非常重要。

Again, the same person I was talking about earlier saying getting the culture right, making everyone feel they're a part of a team, part of a family, very important when you're trying to grow a business.

你不想在新地方一开始就用一群新手。

You don't wanna start up with a bunch of newbies in a new place.

你会带一支经验丰富的精英团队去启动业务，等它走上正轨后再放手让他们独立运作。

You'll take an experienced team, a crack team who know what they're doing to get it going and then let it go off on its own.

在餐饮行业，这一点甚至可能更加重要。

And arguably, even more important if you're in the restaurant business.

对吧？

Right?

我不知道你有没有看过一部叫《熊》的电视剧，但它讲的正是餐饮行业一群背景迥异的人聚在一起，形成家庭的故事。

I don't know if you've watched this TV show called The Bear, but that's essentially about a group of very disparate people in the restaurant business coming together and forming family.

是的。

Yeah.

我知道。

I know.

这部剧太棒了。

Incredible TV.

可能是过去几年最好的电视剧之一。

Some of the best TV of

不过，他们提供的菜式似乎更高端一些，

the last couple of years.

我认为，

Although a little bit more high end cuisine, I think,

《The Bear》里的餐厅比这种商场型的更精致，但可能不如佩吉的成功。

that they were serving in The than this kind of mall based, but probably not as successful as Peggy.

确实如此。

It's true.

我不认为熊队的任何人短期内会成为亿万富翁。

I don't think anybody on the bear is gonna become a billionaire anytime soon.

好吧，1987年四年之后，主厨安迪·考尔被派往夏威夷，开设了第一家熊猫快餐店。

Well, after four years in 1987, executive chef Andy Cowell was sent to Hawaii to open the first Panda Express there.

这次旅行将非常重要，因为安迪受到当地夏威夷柑橘的启发，创造了一种酸甜辣口味的酱汁，灵感来源于中国不同地区的传统糖醋菜谱。

And this is gonna be a really important trip because Andy was inspired by the local Hawaiian citrus to create a tangy, sweet, spicy sauce based on traditional sweet and sour recipes that you'll get from different regions in China.

他最初制作的橙子鸡使用的是带骨带皮的鸡肉和整颗干辣椒。

He initially made the orange chicken dish with bone in, skin on chicken, whole dried chilies.

但你知道，这是美国，所以他很快调整为使用去骨去皮的鸡肉块，使用更温和的香料以适应所有人的口味，这道橙子鸡最终成为熊猫快餐的招牌菜。

But then, you know, this is America, so he quickly adapted to boneless, skinless pieces of chicken, milder spices to suit everyone's palates, and this orange chicken became Panda Express's signature dish.

对我来说，橙子鸡并不会在菜单上特别突出，我认为对于美国以外的人来说，很难理解橙子鸡在中国裔美国菜系中的重要性。

Now orange chicken doesn't leap off the menu to me, and I think it's quite difficult for people outside The US to understand just how key orange chicken is in Chinese American cuisine.

它不只是受欢迎。

It's not just popular.

它几乎是一种主食。

It's kind of a staple.

这就像英国的鸡肉坦达玛萨拉一样。

It's like chicken tikka masala in The UK or something like that.

它占了熊猫快餐营业额的三分之一左右。

It makes up about a third of Panda Express.

卖得非常好。

Sells amazing.

由于看到它的成功，你可以在全美数千家美式中餐馆的菜单上找到它的版本。

And you'll find a version of it on menus at thousands of Chinese American restaurants across the country seeing having seen its success.

我查了一下食谱，上面说要用橙汁，用橙汁来做东西真的特别美式。

I did look up a recipe, it said make it with orange juice, which feels so quintessentially American to do something with OJ.

橙汁。

OJ.

往里面加点橙汁。

Put in some OJ in there.

到1991年，经过八年时间，熊猫快餐已经拥有18家门店。

So by 1991, after eight years, Panda Express had 18 stores.

安德鲁说，这些早期门店每周的平均营业额在6到7美元之间。

And Andrew said that these early outlets were averaging between $6 and $7 a week.

所以，你知道，这可不是小数目。

So, you know, not to be sniffed at.

因此，根据这些数据，他们在1991年的收入可能在550万到650万美元之间。

So they were possibly bringing in revenue based on those figures between 5 and a half million and 6 and a half million in 1991.

我们现在并不清楚他们实际赚了多少利润，但在八年的时间里，利润很可能超过一百万美元。

Now we don't actually know the profits they were making, but over eight years, it's likely to be over 1,000,000.

所以这是二十世纪九十年代初。

So it's the early nineteen nineties.

现在是正式宣布佩吉·钟成为百万富翁的好时机。

It's a good time to say Peggy Chung is officially a millionaire.

现在，让我们把佩吉·张从一百万带到十亿。

Now, let's take Peggy Cheung from 1,000,000 to 1,000,000,000.

在经营近十年后，张氏夫妇开始对竞争感到警惕。

After nearly a decade in business, the Changs were now wary of competition.

他们决定悄悄进军另一家购物中心的快餐连锁店。

And they decided to quietly branch out into another mall fast food chain.

这一次，他们选择了一种日式铁板烧餐厅的休闲版本，叫做Hibachi San。

So this time, they chose a fast casual version of Japanese teppanyaki grill restaurants, Hibachi san.

你吃过铁板烧吗？

Have you ever had teppanyaki grill?

是的。

Yeah.

我吃过。

I have.

就是那种厨师拿着刀具在你面前现场烹饪的地方。

That's where they have all the knives and they're doing it right in front of you.

没错。

Exactly.

非常炫目，技艺精湛。

Very flashy, great skills on show.

这基本上是这种铁板烧风格食物的味道，但没有实际在热板上现场烹饪，因为你可以想象，商场并不会很欢迎这种做法。

It's basically the flavors of this kind of teppanyaki style food without the actual live cooking on hot plates because, you know, you can imagine a mall wouldn't exactly take very well to that.

是的。

Yeah.

这些食谱基于安德鲁一家在日本生活时的自家配方。

The recipes are based on Andrew's family's own time living in Japan.

是的。

Yes.

安德鲁说，我们在1992年在商场开设了Hibachi san，作为一种防御策略，很有趣，目的是阻止日本餐厅在熊猫快餐店旁边销售竞争产品。

Andrew said, we started Hibachi san in malls in 1992 as a defensive strategy, interesting, to keep the Japanese restaurants from selling against our Chinese food at Panda Express.

所以如果你打不赢他们，就加入他们。

So if you can't beat them, join them.

这个小型日本连锁品牌让张氏家族能够将他们在租赁和运营方面的专业知识、商业敏锐度应用到多个品牌上，同时防止竞争对手抢占商场黄金位置。

And this small Japanese chain meant the Chang's could use their leasing and operational know how, that business acumen, across multiple brands while keeping the competitors from grabbing prime mall spots.

同时，这也为他们提供了一个安全的空间来测试新点子，无论是运营、营销还是菜单开发，都不会危及他们的旗舰品牌熊猫快餐。

And at the same time, it gave them a safe space to test new ideas, whether that be operationally, marketing, menu development without putting their flagship Panda Express brand at risk.

所以专注于Panda Express的核心业务，用其他方式探索和创新。

So keep the stick to your knitting on Panda Express, explore and innovate in other ways.

其他品牌也这么做过。

And other brands have done this.

对吧？

Right?

我可以想到百事公司扩展到其他饮料领域。

So I can think of PepsiCo expanding into other beverages.

你知道，Mountain Dew是百事公司的品牌，还有Tropicana、Gatorade。

You know, Mountain Dew is owned by PepsiCo, Tropicana, Gatorade.

所以，他们拥有这些众多的小品牌。

So, you know, they have all these smaller brands

是的。

Yeah.

这些小品牌不会威胁到他们的大品牌。

That don't threaten the bigger brands.

这给人一种选择的错觉。

And it sort of gives you the illusion of choice.

比如，在宝洁这样的大型快消品公司，他们拥有许多相同的洗衣粉品牌，比如 Ariel、Bolt、Tide 和 Gain。

And, like, for example, in in the case of Procter and Gamble, one of the big fast moving consumer goods businesses, they own lots of the same washing powder brands like Ariel, Bolt, Tide, Gain.

这些品牌都属于同一批人。

They're all on the same people.

所以你可能会以为自己有选择。

So you may think you've got a choice.

但实际上它们都归他们所有。

They own them all.

是的。

Yep.

你可能以为自己在选择中式或日式产品，但无论如何，你的钱最终都流向了同一个地方。

And you may think you're choosing between Chinese and Japanese with them all, but either way, you're kind of money's I

这其实挺有意思的，不是吗？

mean, it's quite an interesting thing there, isn't it?

日本和中国之间的关系。

Relations between Japan and China.

在最好的情况下，它们也不是一对和睦的伙伴。

They're not happy bedfellows at the best of times.

我去年去过美国，虽然没有去Hibachi Sun，但去了一个非常相似的、类似快餐风格的日本料理店，那些店里的食物更像中餐。

I will say having been to America last year and actually not gone to Hibachi Sun, but gone to a very similar kind of takeaway style fast food Japanese place, The food in those kind of shops is more like Chinese food.

是的。

Yeah.

如果你正在听这段话，别生气，但我确实觉得，在美国，这两种菜系之间的共同点可能比

Don't kill me if you're listening to this, but I do think there's probably much more in common with those two cuisines in America than

在美式消费者心目中实际存在的共同点还要多。

there is actually Perhaps in the American consumer mind.

他们只是说，哦，我想吃点亚洲菜。

Well, they just say, oh, I'd like some, you know, Asian food.

没错。

Exactly.

到1993年，经营十年后，熊猫快餐已拥有超过一百家门店。

Well, by 1993, after ten years in business, Panda Express had over a 100 locations.

此时，快餐巨头通常会采用一种名为特许经营的方式进一步扩张规模。

Now fast food giants usually turn to something called franchising at this point to grow further in size.

这允许个人购买使用某个品牌的权利，使他们能够获得品牌名称、成熟的运营体系、培训和营销支持。

And this lets individuals buy the rights to operate under a brand, gives them access to the name, proven systems, training, marketing support.

但作为交换，你需要向母公司支付费用和特许权使用费。

But in exchange, you're paying fees and royalties to that parent company.

是的。

Yes.

这是一种非常有效的模式，能让一些连锁品牌在较少资本投入的情况下快速扩张，因为你把成本和风险转移给了特许经营者。

It's a really proved a very effective way for letting some chains expand quickly with less capital, because you're shifting the costs and the risks to these franchisees.

这样一来，你就有一支由他人组成的队伍在帮你扩张品牌，而你无需亲自去做，也不用为此支付费用。

And that way, you've got a little army of people expanding your brand, which you don't have to do, and you're not paying for it.

你只需支付少量费用来提供其中一些支持即可。

You're only paying a bit for it to supply some of those things.

大多数大型快餐巨头都严重依赖这种方式。

And most major fast food giants have relied heavily on that.

例如，麦当劳有38000家门店，其中95%都是特许经营的。

For example, McDonald's, 38,000 locations, 95% of those are franchised.

赛百味几乎100%都是特许经营。

Subways is nearly 100%.

还有Yum！

Also Yum!

它们旗下的品牌包括塔可钟、肯德基和必胜客。

Brands, they own Taco Bell, KFC, Pizza Hut.

这些品牌大约98%都是特许经营的。

That's about 98% franchised.

这实际上才是常态。

That's actually the the norm.

但Panda Express拒绝使用这种特许经营模式来扩张。

Well, Panda Express refused to use this franchising system to expand.

所以它们并不是常态。

So they are not the norm.

《福布斯》实际上估算，选择不采用特许经营可能让他们每年损失至少销售额4%的特许权使用费，但他们依然坚持自己的做法。

Forbes actually estimated that choosing not to franchise may have cost them royalties of at least 4% of sales each year, but the churns stood strong.

他们表示，这样做的原因是，正如安德鲁所说，我们能更好地运营它们。

They said the reason they did this was because, in Andrew's words, we can run them better.

特许经营模式中存在一种权衡，那就是你实际上是在外包你的品牌，因此会失去一些控制权。

And there is a trade off in the franchise system, which is that you're actually sort of outsourcing your brand, so you are losing a bit of control.

别人在运营它，使用你的知识产权和品牌，但你并没有亲自管理。

Someone else is running it for they're using your intellectual property, your branding, but you're not running it.

因此，你需要在快速扩张和更强控制权之间做出选择。

So there is a a decision to be made between fast growth and greater control.

是的。

Yep.

如果他们没做好，压力还是会回到你身上。

And if they don't do it right, the heat comes onto you still.

是的。

Yeah.

不过，如今熊猫快餐确实在一些无法实现所有权的地点开设了特许经营店。

Well, today though, Panda Express does have a few franchises, but in locations where ownership isn't possible.

例如机场、军事基地，这些地方你实际上无法拥有房地产。

For example, airports, military bases where you're not actually allowed to own the real estate.

但回到20世纪90年代末，熊猫快餐虽然成功，但作为美食广场的常驻品牌，其吸引力已经开始减弱。

But back to the late 1990s, Panda Express was successful, but being a food court staple was already losing a bit of its luster.

佩吉说，这是一个封闭市场，但你无法打造自己的品牌。

Peggy said it is a captive market, but you're not able to build your own brand.

人们只是把你视为商场里的中餐馆，你知道的。

People see you as the Chinese place within the mall, you know.

你只是众多餐饮选择中的一个，而不是一个独特的品牌。

You are part of a continuum of offers rather than perhaps a distinct one.

于是她将这些利润用于拓展，开设了独立的门店，也就是街边店。

So she took those more profits, and she branched out into building freestanding stores, so street locations.

这些实际上比穆尔人更具挑战性，因为熊猫快餐的门店要与已有的中餐馆竞争，而到上世纪九十年代末，美国已有超过一万五千家中餐馆。

Now these proved actually more challenging than the Moors because Panda Express outlets were competing with established Chinese restaurants, and there were over 15,000 of these places in The US by the late nineties.

于是，熊猫快餐启动了他们的首次街头营销活动。

So Panda Express embarked on their very first street marketing campaign.

传单、门把手广告——也就是挂在门把手上的传单——都在为熊猫快餐宣传，这让整个活动带有一种本地特色，是的。

Flyers, door hangers, know, flyers hung on door handles were all spreading the word for Panda Express, And this gave the campaign a kind of local flavor Yeah.

而不是通过全国性的电视或广播广告狂轰滥炸。

As opposed to kind of blasting it on national television or radio campaigns.

我猜那些独立经营的本地中餐馆看到熊猫快餐开到他们街上来，一定很高兴。

And I bet the local Chinese rest standalone Chinese restaurants were thrilled to see Panda Express rock up on their street.

1997年成为熊猫快餐的一个转折点。

1997 turned out to be a turning point for Panda Express.

他们在加利福尼亚州赫斯佩里亚开设了第一家汽车餐厅，将美食送到赶时间的顾客手中。

They opened their very first drive through in Hesperia, California, bringing their food to customers on the go.

就在同一年，佩吉从运营经理晋升为总裁兼首席执行官。

And that very same year, Peggy stepped up from operations manager to president and CEO.

她还引入了——记住，她骨子里仍是个工程师——一个集中的供应链，以确保每一家门店顺畅运营。

She also introduced, remember, she's still an engineer at heart, a centralized supply chain to keep every single store running smoothly.

到这个时候，Panda Express的年收入已接近1.79亿美元，但他们的眼光更高远。

And by this point, Panda Express was pulling in nearly a $179,000,000 in revenue, but they were setting their sights even higher.

他们希望成为一家十亿美元级别的品牌。

They wanted to be a billion dollar brand.

现在我们进入了新千年的开端，我认为我们需要谈谈这个特定十年里美国饮食文化发生了什么变化。

And we're at the beginning of a new millennium now, and I think we need to talk about what's happening to America's food culture during this particular decade.

你还记得，快餐当时频频登上新闻头条。

You'll remember that fast food was in the headlines.

首先在2001年，埃里克·施洛瑟的《快餐国度》揭露了快餐行业的隐性成本，包括其供应链、劳工实践和健康影响。

First in 2001, Eric Schloss's Fast Food Nation was exposing the hidden costs of the fast food industry, its supply chains, labor practices, and health impacts.

然后在2004年，摩根·斯普尔洛克的纪录片《超码的我》将这一信息带入主流视野。

And then in 2004, Morgan Spurlock's film Supersized Me took the message mainstream.

它展示了一个人只吃麦当劳一个月会发生什么。

It showed what happens when you only eat McDonald's for a month.

因此，消费者希望获得更健康的选择。

So consumers wanted healthier options.

他们感到害怕，开始更多地询问食物的来源。

They were getting scared, and they were asking more questions about where their food came from.

这与有机食品销售额的大幅增长相吻合，从2000年的60亿美元增长到2009年的近250亿美元。

And this dovetails with a huge explosion in organic food sales from 6,000,000,000 in 2000 to nearly 25,000,000,000 in 2009.

在Panda Inn，他们将实时数据输入到集中配送中心。

At Panda Inn, they were feeding real time data into their centralized distribution center.

因此，佩吉能够确保新鲜食材准时送达，保持一致性，这种方式在某种程度上赋予了Panda Express在2000年代快速扩张的灵活性，同时不牺牲品质，因为当时人们更关注我吃的食物到底有多好。

So Peggy was able to ensure fresh ingredients arrived on time, consistency was maintained, and in a way this gave Panda Express a bit of an advantage agility to expand rapidly in the 2000s without sacrificing quality when there was more of a focus on how good is the food I'm getting actually.

是的。

Yeah.

你可以想象，当你走进商场，心里想着：我要吃炸鸡吗？

You can imagine if you're walking into a mall and you're thinking, do I get the fried chicken?

我要吃华夫饼吗？

Do I get the waffles?

哦，等等。

Oh, wait.

我可以直接吃烤鸡和一些蔬菜。

I could just get grilled chicken and some veggies.

是的。

Yeah.

那一定非常有吸引力。

That must have been really appealing.

嗯哼。

Mhmm.

此外，人们的口味也变得更加大胆了。

Well, palates also got bolder.

对吧？

Right?

因此，人们开始渴望更多辛辣的食物。

So people began to crave more spice.

他们想要更多全球化的风味。

They wanted more global flavors.

熊猫快餐正好非常适合提供这些风味。

Panda Express was basically ideally placed to offer exactly that.

他们试推了像爆辣牛肉这样的菜品，其实就是辣味炒牛肉。

They tested dishes like firecracker beef, which is basically spicy stir fried beef.

当反馈积极时，他们就会把这些菜品加入菜单。

When the feedback was positive, they'd add them to the menu.

佩吉基本上说过，我们在熊猫快餐的工作就是追随味蕾变化的历程，这是一种很优雅的说法，意思是人们不再那么害怕吃辣了。

And Peggy has basically said, our job at Panda Express is to follow that journey of how palates have grown, which is a lovely way of saying people got less scared of spicy food.

没错。

That's right.

但与此同时，美国购物中心也相对衰落了，主要是由于在线购物的增长，这彻底冲击了许多商业模式。

And this was also a time though when the American mall was in relative decline, mostly due to the growth of online, of course, which drove a coach and horses through lots of business models.

这对美食广场造成了打击，因此熊猫快餐也因此失去了顾客。

This was bad for the food courts, and Panda Express, as a result, was losing customers.