黑人美发护理如何孕育黑人力量

这是来自NPR的星球金钱。

This is planet money from NPR.

TikTok上有个女人，特别引人入胜。

There's this woman on TikTok who is so incredibly compelling.

接下来这件裙子来自宗达·罗兹，我确实有一张我祖母穿着它的标志性照片。

The next dress is from Zonda Rhodes, and I do have an iconic photo of my grandmother wearing it.

让我给你看看。

So let me show you.

她的名字叫奥利维亚·琼·盖利。

Her name is Olivia Joan Galley.

真的太美了。

Like, so beautiful.

她是一位年轻的黑人摄影师。

She's a young black photographer.

在所有这些帖子中，奥利维亚·琼都在沙发上试穿一堆极其精致的复古服装。

In all of these posts, Olivia Joan is trying on pieces from a heap of incredibly fancy vintage clothing on a couch.

珠饰工艺简直无可挑剔。

The beadwork is just impeccable.

这些全都属于她的祖母。

It all belonged to her grandmother.

这条裙子重达五十磅左右。

This dress weighs, like, 50 pounds.

它非常重。

It is very heavy.

有些鞋子的价格比一些人的房租还高，却从未穿过。

There are shoes that cost more than some people's rent and have never even been worn.

但也有一些非常破旧的衣物。

And then there are some very worn things.

这件上衣曾经是我祖母最喜欢的。

This used to be my grandmother's favorite top.

上面甚至还有她泼洒时留下的污渍，而且至今还带着她的气味。

It even has, like, a bunch of stains on it from when she spilled, and it still smells like her too.

她是我最好的朋友。

And she was my best friend.

所以，是的，我们时间不多了。

And so, yeah, we're running out of time.

好吧。

Okay.

再见。

Bye.

奥利维亚·琼斯发帖最引人注目的地方在于，这些是高级定制礼服。

The thing that's so striking about Olivia Jones' post is that these are couture dresses.

所以她的祖母，一位黑人女性，穿着定制的香奈儿、纪梵希和伊夫·圣罗兰。

So her grandmother, a black woman, was wearing custom Chanel, Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurent.

这是给最富有的人穿的。

This is for the wealthiest of the wealthy.

一些曾为奥黛丽·赫本、杰奎琳·肯尼迪和戴安娜王妃设计服装的同一设计师，为这位来自芝加哥南区的黑人女性设计了这些服饰。

Some of the same designers who dressed Audrey Hepburn, Jackie Kennedy, and Princess Diana dressing this black woman from the South Side Of Chicago.

我们联系了奥利维亚·琼斯，她告诉我们，她之所以发布这些祖母的穿搭，正是出于这个原因。

We called up Olivia Joan, and she told us that is why she's been posting these outfits of her grandmothers.

你根本想不到黑人男性和女性甚至能负担得起设计师作品，但看到我的祖母拥有如此深厚且丰富的档案收藏，这就是我一直在谈论它的原因。

You really did not see black men and women able to even afford designer pieces, but to see that my grandmother had such a deep rooted archival collection is the reason why I really think kept talking about it.

奥利维亚·琼斯表示，就连她自己也花了很长时间才意识到祖父母的重要性。

Olivia Jones says it even took her a long time to clock her grandparents' importance.

我记得我和祖母一起看《王冠》，她当时说：‘哦，哦，我和女王的妹妹是朋友。’

Like, I remember my grandmother and I were watching The Crown, and she was like, oh, Oh, I was friends with a queen sister.

然后我只是，我只是……

And then I was just I was

我直接说：等等，你刚才说什么？

just like, pause, what what did you say?

你祖母是谁？

Who was your grandmother?

是啊。

Yeah.

我祖母是琼·贝蒂·亨德森·约翰逊。

My grandmother is Joan Betty Henderson Johnson.

琼·约翰逊。

Joan Johnson.

那她的祖父呢？

And her grandfather?

我是谁？

Who am I?

我是乔治·E·约翰逊。

I'm George e Johnson.

就这些。

That's all.

那绝对不止这些。

That most certainly is not all.

乔治·E·约翰逊是琼的丈夫，但他也是20世纪最著名的黑人护发产品Afrosheen的发明者。

George e Johnson was Joan's husband, but he was also the maker of Afrosheen, the most iconic black hair product of the twentieth century.

别忘了Afro Sheen的护发素和发蜡，这是滋养和凸显头发的最佳产品。

And don't forget Afro Sheen's conditioner and hairdress, the best for conditioning and highlighting your hair.

那你想要什么？

And what do you want?

我从Afro Sheen那里得不到任何东西。

Nothing I can get from Afro Sheen.

Afro Sheen的吹风造型套装、护发素和发蜡。

Afro Sheen's blowout kit and conditioner and hairdress.

约翰逊的Afrochene是自然界销量最大的产品。

Johnson's Afrochene, the largest selling products in the natural world.

很难夸大Afrochene在黑人文化与黑人商业崛起中的核心地位。

It's hard to overstate how Central Afrochene was the black culture and the rise of black business.

某种程度上，约翰逊公司的故事就是他们如何将这两者融合在一起的故事。

And in a way, the story of the Johnson's company is how they melded those two.

因为虽然奥利维亚·琼娜在TikTok上发布视频，让人们了解像她祖父母这样的富有黑人企业家确实存在，但对我们Planet Money团队来说，他们如何赚钱，这才是故事的重点。

Because while Olivia Joan posts her TikToks so people will understand wealthy black entrepreneurs like her grandparents existed, for the team here at Planet Money, how they made their money, that's the story.

约翰逊家族是他们那个时代最成功的黑人企业家之一，他们成功的关键在于认识到，只要足够关注非裔美国人的需求，就能赚钱。

The Johnsons were among the most successful black entrepreneurs of their time, and they did it by recognizing a key thing, that if you paid enough attention to what black Americans needed, you could make money.

约翰逊家族将黑人文化视为黑人商业。

The Johnsons saw black culture as black business.

他们赚的钱资助了民权运动，支付了传奇电视节目《Soul Train》以及琼斯著名的购物狂欢。

The money they made helped fund the civil rights movement, paid for the legendary television show Soul Train and for Jones' legendary shopping sprees.

所有这些钱都来自黑人护发产品。

And all that money came from black hair care products.

我仍然记得我的祖父母来吃晚饭时，我们一边看橄榄球比赛，一边等着妈妈做饭。

I still remember my grandparents coming over for dinner, and we would be watching football while my mom's cooking.

我当时头发披着，爷爷走过来摸了摸，说：‘琼安，我们得谈谈。’

And I'd have, like, my hair down, and my grandpa would come over, touch it, and be like, Joan, like, we gotta have a conversation.

大家好，欢迎收听《Planet Money》。

Hello, and welcome to Planet Money.

我是索纳里·格林顿。

I'm Sonari Glinton.

长期贡献者、节目的朋友，我是艾丽卡·巴里斯。

Longtime contributor, friend of the show, and I'm Erica Barris.

琼和乔治·约翰逊对黑人群体在头发和生活方面的需求有着深刻理解，这帮助壮大了黑人中产阶级和黑人力量。

Joan and George Johnson's intimate understanding of what black people wanted and needed for their hair and for their lives, helped grow the black middle class and black power.

同时，他们还促成了如今价值数十亿美元的产业的诞生。

And at the same time, they helped create what is today a multibillion dollar industry.

尽管他们开创了这一产业，但他们如今已不再拥有它。

Which though they started it, they no longer own.

今天在节目中，我们将讲述约翰逊产品的兴衰史。

Today on the show, the rise and fall of Johnson products.

我们将通过三种发型来讲述这个故事：卷发、非洲发型和电烫卷发。

We're gonna tell you this story in three hairstyles, the conch, the afro, and the jerry curl.

好的。

Okay.

所以我们之前说过，我们会通过三种发型来讲述这个故事。

So we told you we're gonna tell you this story in three hairstyles.

在我们讲第一个发型——化学拉直发之前，我们需要为你描绘一下当时的时代背景。

And before we get to our first, the conch, meaning chemically straightened hair, we need to paint you a picture of the times.

那是二十世纪五十年代初。

It's the early nineteen fifties.

第二次世界大战刚刚结束，正值第二次大迁徙浪潮。

World War two is just over, and it's the second wave of the great migration.

黑人劳工正大量涌入底特律和芝加哥等北方城市。

And black workers are streaming into northern cities like Detroit and Chicago.

当时，最受欢迎的音乐明星是纳特·金·科尔。

And at the time, the biggest music star is Nat King Cole.

挺直腰板，展翅高飞。

Straighten up and fly right.

纳特·金·科尔是那个时代黑人风格的完美代表。

Nat King Cole is the absolute epitome of black style during this era.

他柔和的嗓音、精致的着装，以及光亮顺直的头发。

His smooth voice, immaculate tailoring, and shiny straight hair.

这发生在乔治·约翰逊创办他的美发公司之前，也远在琼·约翰逊开始佩戴香奈儿之前。

This was before George Johnson started his haircare company and well before Joan Johnson started rocking Chanel.

乔治并没有像纳特·金·科尔那样拉直头发，那不是他的世界，但他看到这正是许多黑人真正想要的。

George wasn't straightening his hair like Nat King Cole, that wasn't his world, but he saw it was what a lot of black folks really wanted.

随着黑人进入中产阶级，他们面临着巨大的同化压力。

As black people were moving into the middle class, there was intense pressure to assimilate.

你把头发烫得越直，看起来就越像白人，就越显得体面，职场上的机会也就越多。

The more kink you conked out your hair, the whiter you looked, the more respectable, and the better your chances in the workforce.

他们不仅拉直头发，还做指形波浪发型。

Not only they they straighten it, but they finger waved it.

嗯。

Uh-huh.

所以他们会把头发做出波浪造型。

So you would have a they would have waves in there.

他们对这种发型疯狂着迷。

They were going crazy for this.

那时乔治·约翰逊正值青春期，尽管他早已多年在打拼了。

And this was when George Johnson was coming of age, though he'd actually been hustling for years already.

我六岁的时候就开始工作了。

I started working when I was, like, six years old.

你说六岁？

Did you say six years old?

六岁。

Six years old.

对。

Yeah.

那是大萧条时期。

That was during the Great Depression.

乔治、他的兄弟们和母亲从密西西比搬到了芝加哥。

George, his brothers, and his mom had moved to Chicago from Mississippi.

他们极其贫穷。

They were extremely poor.

所以我和约翰开始在我们住的楼里上下后楼梯，翻垃圾桶，捡牛奶瓶、纸张和破布。

So John and I started going up and down the back stairs of the building we lived in and going in the garbage cans and picking up the milk bottles, the paper, the rags.

所以你们

Which So you

是在捡废品吗？

were like kind of like scrapping things?

每称一磅纸，我们能赚到一分钱，我想是这样。

For every pound of paper, we got up, I think, a penny.

真正让我们赚到一些钱的，是我们从香烟包装纸里取出的锡箔纸。

The only thing that got us some real money was when we took the tinfoil that was in the wrappers of the cigarette packages.

这需要很长时间，但当我们攒到一磅左右的锡箔纸时，废品收购商就会给我们一笔可观的钱。

It took a long time, but when we got, say, a pound of that tinfoil, we get some real money from the junk man for that.

乔治做过各种各样的工作，比如擦皮鞋、送报纸。

George worked all kinds of jobs, shining shoes, delivering newspapers.

尽管他很穷，但他幸运地进入了这所传奇的芝加哥高中。

And while he was poor, he was lucky enough to land at this legendary Chicago high school.

它叫温德尔·菲利普斯。

It's called Wendell Phillips.

纳特·金·科尔、萨姆·库克和玛丽·泰·华盛顿都曾在那里上学。

And Nat King Cole went there, Sam Cook, Mary t Washington.

她是第一位非裔美国女性注册会计师。

She was the first black woman CPA.

这所高中正是乔治遇见他未来妻子琼的地方。

And that high school was where George would meet his future wife Joan.

琼毕业了。

Joan graduated.

乔治没有毕业，因为他需要赚钱。

George didn't finish because he needed money.

所以到了二十世纪五十年代，当那种拉直的加工发型风靡一时时，乔治在业余时间当过洗手间服务员，并在周末洗车。

So by the nineteen fifties, when the conch, that straightened processed hair was all the rage, George was moonlighting as a bathroom attendant and washing cars on the weekends.

他的主要工作是在一家黑人拥有的化妆品公司，他最终升职到实验室负责调配化学原料。

And his main job was in a black owned company that made cosmetics, where he eventually worked his way up to mixing chemicals in a lab.

高中读两年怎么获得化学背景？

How do you get a chemistry background after two years of high school?

我高中时学了两年化学。

I I took I took two years of chemistry in high school.

这就够了。

That was enough.

不。

But no.

不。

No.

不。

No.

乔治是在工作中学习的。

George learned on the job.

后来有一天，当他基本成为运营经理后，在公司乘电梯时遇到了一位理发师，奥维尔·尼尔森。

And then one day after he'd become essentially operations manager, he was riding the elevator at work and he met a barber, Orville Nelson.

奥维尔在芝加哥南区经营一家知名的理发店，他试图让乔治工作的公司与他合作。

Orville ran a well known barbershop on the South Side Of Chicago, and he was trying to get the company George worked for to partner with him.

你看，这个叫奥维尔的人自己发明了一种直发器。

See, this guy, Orville, had created his own hair straightener.

这是一种化学产品，能永久地将卷曲、蓬松、螺旋状的头发拉直。

This chemical product that turned curly, kinky, coily hair to straight permanently.

奥维尔是纳特·金·科尔的理发师，这可是件了不起的事。

Orville was Nat King Cole's barber, a pretty big deal.

乔治说，奥维尔会专门飞到加州只为给纳特理发。

George says Orville would fly to California just to do Nat's hair.

但当乔治见到奥维尔时，他脸上带着一种神情。

But when George met Orville, he had this look about him.

当我看到他的脸时，他看起来如此沮丧，我脱口而出。

When I looked at his face, he looked so dejected that I it just popped out of my mouth.

你到底怎么了？

What the hell is wrong with you?

他有问题的原因是，他发明的拉直混合物并没有按照他期望的方式起作用。

What was wrong with him was that the straightening mixture he'd come up with was not working the way he wanted it to.

奥维尔是个理发师，不是化学家，但他根据一些旧配方配制了一种混合物，其中包括鸡蛋、土豆和氢氧化钠，也就是我们所说的碱液。

Orville was a barber, not a chemist, but he come up with a concoction based on old recipes that included mixing egg, potato, and sodium hydroxide, or what we call lye.

这些都是一些强效的化学物质。

And these were powerful chemicals.

只要停留足够的时间，你的头发就会变得顺直。

Leave them in just long enough and you had swinging hair.

但如果把这些产品留在头发上太久，可能会灼伤头皮。

But leave these products in the hair too long and it might burn.

再久一点，你可能就一根头发都不剩了。

Longer than that, you might not have any hair left.

所以在电梯里，奥维尔正在倾诉他的挫败感。

So in that elevator, Orville is venting about his frustrations.

而乔治考虑到其中的化学原理，感到非常着迷，于是请奥维尔去观看他的理发师们实际操作。

And George, thinking about the chemistry of it all, is so intrigued that he asks Orville to come watch his barbers in action.

我去了他的店里，一进门就震惊了，因为看到里面正在发生的一切。

I went over to his shop and walked into in shock when I saw what was going on inside.

这可不是那种人人围坐闲聊体育和政治的明信片式理发店。

This wasn't your picture postcard barbershop where everyone's sitting around and talking about sports and politics.

这简直是一片混乱。

This was pandemonium.

理发师们会冲向一个盛满混合液的大桶，把药水搅匀，然后倒进小罐里，再冲回顾客身边，把药水涂到他们头上。

The barbers would run to a vat of the concoction where they'd mix it up, then pour it into a small jar, then race back to their clients and apply it to their heads.

他有四把椅子。

He had four chairs.

椅子总是坐满的。

They were always full.

这些家伙疯狂地工作，只为把这种药水快速涂上又洗掉，而他们的顾客就只有这些人。

And these guys were working like crazy to get this product in and out of the hair, the only people they were working on.

男人们在椅子上扭动着，等待药水生效。

The men were squirming in their chairs waiting for it to work.

就在它严重灼伤他们之前，理发师会把椅子转过来，让顾客把头低下进入洗发盆。

Then just before it burned them too badly, the barbers would turn the chair around and lower their heads into the shampoo bowl.

乔治看出了问题所在。

And George saw what the problem was.

他们需要某种成分，来让产品保持稳定。

They needed something, some ingredient to keep it stable.

当我看到这种产品、看到它分层的状态时，我就明白它需要被乳化。

It was obvious to me when I saw the product, the way it was separated, it told me that it it needed to be emulsified.

所以我认为这会很容易，因为我懂，但事实并非如此。

So I thought it would be very easy because I I knew, but it was not.

花了整整九个月。

Took took nine months.

乔治利用老板的化学实验室开始进行实验。

George used his boss's chemistry lab to start experimenting.

他夜复一夜地尝试各种化学物质的不同组合，然后把这些混合物交给奥维尔，在他的理发店进行测试。

Night after night, he tried vat after vat of chemicals in different combinations, and then he'd give them to Orville who tried them out in his barbershop.

最终，乔治找到了他认为会奏效的东西。

Finally, George found something he thought was going to work.

他形容它比蛋黄酱还要浓稠。

He describes it as being thicker than mayonnaise.

他把配方带给奥维尔，奥维尔在一些顾客身上试用。

He took the formula to Orville who tried it on some clients.

他说，就是这个了。

He said, this is it.

别碰它。

Don't touch it.

别动。

Don't move.

我们成功了。

We got it.

当他这么说的时候，我脱口而出。

And it just popped out of my mouth when when he said that.

我说，我们应该把这个推向市场。

I said, we ought to we ought to market this.

乔治意识到这种改进的黑色护发产品蕴含着巨大的经济机遇。

George recognized in this improved black hair care product a massive economic opportunity.

我们可以做出一种能让每个人都能受益的产品。

We could make a product that would do this for everybody.

1954年，奥维尔和乔治联手创业。

In 1954, Orville and George went into business together.

这款产品名为Ultrawave Hair Culture。

The product was Ultrawave Hair Culture.

这些名字真够有意思的。

Gotta love those names.

是啊。

Yeah.

这并不是第一个直发产品，但新颖之处在于，这款产品是常温稳定且可靠的。

Now this wasn't the first hair straightener, but what was new was this product was shelf stable and reliable.

于是，乔治开始向芝加哥各地的理发店销售Ultra Wave，并通过教授他们如何使用该产品来建立信任。

So George started selling Ultra Wave to barbershops around Chicago and building trust with those barbers by teaching them how to use the product.

几乎立刻，这款产品就大受欢迎。

And almost instantly, it was a hit.

以至于他请妻子琼辞去待遇优厚的政府工作，来帮他处理账目、产品包装、罐子封口和贴标签、装货上车。

So much so that he asked his wife Joan to quit her good paying government job to help him handle the books and the product, capping and labeling jars, loading trucks.

最终，当乔治和奥维尔的商业关系恶化时，奥维尔离开了，乔治和琼接手了业务。

Eventually, when George and Orville's business relationship soured, Orville left, and George and Joan took over.

这家公司名为约翰逊产品公司。

It was Johnson Products Company.

乔治说，琼是一位无所畏惧的女商人。

And George says Joan turned out to be a fearless businesswoman.

比如有一次，一位理发师欠了他们钱。

Like one time, this barber owed them money.

于是她亲自去收款。

And she went out to collect.

那天她去的时候，他本来打算敷衍她，说我不有钱。

The day that she went, he was just gonna blow her off and tell her that, you know, I don't have the money.

我现在付不起你的账单。

I can't pay your bill right now.

所以她说，好吧。

So she said, okay.

那我就坐在这儿，等你有钱了再说。

Then I'm a sit over here until you do.

记住，那是五十年代，女人在理发店是不受欢迎的。

Remember, this is the fifties when a woman was not welcome in a barbershop.

他们还用一些难听的话想把她赶出去。

And and, you know, and they tried to run her out of that with some, you know, nasty language.

但她只是坐下来读《 Ebony 》杂志，直到那人最终决定付钱，他真的付了。

But she just sat down reading Ebony magazine until the guy finally decided he had to pay her, and he did.

那之后，她获得了什么样的声誉？

What kind of reputation did she get after that?

哦，她很坚强。

Oh, she was tough.

她有着强硬的名声。

She had a tough reputation.

你必须付这位女士钱。

You're gonna pay this lady.

琼和乔治在芝加哥各地向理发店销售超声波产品，然后他们开始扩张。

Joan and George were selling ultrawave to barbershops all over Chicago, and then they started expanding.

芝加哥带来的利润让我开设了印第安纳波利斯的业务，而印第安纳波利斯的收入又帮助我开设了克利夫兰的业务。

The profits that came out of Chicago enabled me to open up Indianapolis, and then the money in Indianapolis helped me open up Cleveland.

然后我可以去底特律，再前往孟菲斯，再到圣路易斯，

And then I could go to Detroit and then to Memphis to St.

你知道的，一个市场接一个市场地拓展。

Louis, you know, just market by market.

他们最终超越了仅限理发店的范围，将产品摆上了商店货架，并开始为女性生产产品。

They eventually move beyond just barbershops and get their products onto store shelves, and they start making products for women.

他们想进一步发展，于是在芝加哥南区的社区里建起了真正的总部，一个实验室和工厂，成为黑人文化的象征。

They wanna grow more, so they build a real headquarters in their neighborhood on the South Side Of Chicago, a laboratory and factory that becomes like a monument to black culture.

我小时候开车经过芝加哥丹·莱恩高速公路时，总会看到约翰逊产品公司的工厂。

I grew up as a kid driving past that Johnson Products factory on the Dan Ryan Big Expressway in Chicago.

它象征着黑人创业和黑人商业的成功。

And it was such a symbol of black entrepreneurship and black business.

是的。

Yeah.

乔治雇佣了大量黑人员工，并在各个部门都给予他们丰厚的报酬。

And George hired majority black people, and he paid them well in every division.

从清洁工到高管，人人都如此。

Everyone from the janitors to the executives.

在那个年代，如果你像约翰逊夫妇一样是成功的黑人，你不仅仅是在发展自己的事业。

In those days, if you were black and successful like the Johnsons were, you didn't just grow your own business.

你的责任是推动整个社区的发展。

Your responsibility was to grow your community.

于是，乔治与一群主要是黑人的商人一起接管了一家失败的社区银行，以便其他黑人企业家和家庭能够获得贷款。

So George, along with a group of mostly black businessmen, took over a failed neighborhood bank so that other black entrepreneurs and families could get loans.

我们把它命名为独立银行。

And we named it Independence Bank.

到1965年，乔治·约翰逊已成为有史以来最成功的黑人商人之一。

By 1965, George Johnson was one of the most successful black businessmen of all time.

他成功的重要原因之一是，从一开始他就把黑人视为客户，并为他们提供所需的产品，无论是直发剂还是银行贷款。

And a big part of his success was that from the start, he saw black people as customers and gave them what they needed, whether it was hair straightener or a loan from the bank.

但如今，他们的客户群体正在发生变化。

But now their customers were changing.

到了20世纪60年代中期，年轻人对直发失去了兴趣。

By the mid nineteen sixties, young people were losing interest in straightening their hair.

民权运动正处于全面高涨阶段，而直发与运动的主张背道而驰。

The civil rights movement was in absolute full swing, and hair straightening didn't align with the message of the movement.

民权领袖们不仅要求人权，还拒绝白人审美标准，这意味着要拥抱自然发型。

Civil rights leaders were demanding human rights and also rejecting white beauty standards, and that meant embracing natural hair.

黑色就是美丽，上帝赐予你的已经足够好。

Black is beautiful, and what God gave you is good enough.

我们立即行动，推出了一款名为Afro Sheen的优秀产品。

We got on it right away, and we came out with a a great product called Afro Sheen.

Afro Sheen是公司推出的新产品，是一种专为卷发设计的头发保湿剂。

Afro Sheen, the company's new product was a hair moisturizer for afros.

所以，在我们通过三种发型讲述的故事中，接下来是第二种——卷发，这是民权与黑人权力时代的一种全新造型。

So in our story, as told through three hairstyles, here is the second one, the afro, a dramatic new look for the era of civil rights and black power.

就在Afro Sheen上市之际，发生了一件事，凸显了这家公司的重要性。

And right around the time Afro Sheen hit shelves, something happened that shows just how central this company had become.

十月份，我接到了马丁·路德·金博士的电话。

I got a call from, doctor King in October.

就是马丁·路德·金博士，小马丁·路德·金。

As in doctor Martin Luther King Junior.

他邀请我在十一月安排一次会面。

Asking me for an appointment in November.

那是1966年，金博士想来参观乔治的研究设施。

It was 1966, and King wanted to come tour George's research facility.

当时对金博士和他的组织来说，这是民权运动的一个低谷。

Now this was a low moment in the civil rights movement for King and his organization.

当金博士那天来拜访我时，他告诉我他们发不出工资了。

When doctor King came to visit me that day, he let me know they couldn't make payroll.

当金博士参观约翰逊产品公司总部时，他到处都看到黑人面孔。

And as King walked around Johnson Products headquarters, he saw black faces everywhere.

穿着实验服的人，穿着西装打领带的人。

People in lab coats, in suits and ties.

全体员工都出来见他。

The whole staff came out to see him.

我们刚刚建起了一座三万平方英尺的新总部。

We had just put up a 30,000 square foot new headquarters.

他抬头看着这栋大楼，然后说：这就是黑人力量。

He looked up at the building, and then he said, this is black power.

金博士来访的部分原因是为了筹款。

Part of the reason for King's visit was fundraising.

他的组织需要一笔贷款。

His organization needed a loan.

独立银行向他提供了超过十万美元的贷款。

And Independence Bank loaned him over a $100,000.

他的反应是什么？

What was his response?

哦，他哭了。

Oh, he cried.

当我们把支票交给他时，他哭了。

He cried when we gave him the when we gave him the check.

约翰逊夫妇在资助民权运动。

The Johnsons were underwriting the civil rights movement.

现在，随着新总部和新产品的落成，他们希望接触新的受众，特别是年轻的黑人消费者。

And now with their new headquarters and new product in place, they wanted to reach a new audience, specifically young black consumers.

就在那时，他们将营销提升到了一个全新的水平。

And that's when they took their marketing to a whole new level.

乔治找到了完美的载体。

George found the perfect vehicle.

《灵魂列车》。

Soul Train.

一档电视节目，展示所有最优秀的黑人音乐家和那些留着蓬松爆炸头、尽情跳舞的年轻人。

The television show showcasing all of the best black musicians and dancing young people with big bouncy afros having the time of their lives.

塞纳里和我做了一整期关于它的节目。

Sennari and I made a whole episode about it.

去看看吧。

Go check it out.

现在，乔治第一次在演播室里亲眼看到了《灵魂列车》。

Now George first saw Soul Train live in a studio.

我去看了一下，很喜欢。

I saw I went and I saw it, and I liked it.

但当时它只在芝加哥的本地电视上以黑白画面播出。

But it was only airing in black and white on local television in Chicago.

它失去了我在现场看到的一切。

It lost everything that I saw when I saw it in person.

乔治认为这个节目应该用彩色播出。

George thought the show should be in color.

所以我制作了一个三十分钟的彩色试播集。

So I had a thirty minute color pilot made.

最终，乔治为此签了支票，使它成为全国性的节目。

And eventually, George writes a check for it to become a national program.

交易的一部分是，每期节目都会插播Afro Sheen和Ultra Sheen的广告。

And part of the deal is that ads for Afro Sheen and Ultra Sheen are gonna be on every show.

因此，约翰逊产品公司成为了Soul Train的赞助商。

So Johnson Products became Soul Train's sponsor.

孩子们非常喜欢它。

Kids loved it.

大厅一端的一个人会说，一、二，而另一端的人就会说，用那个机器。

One guy at the end of of one end of the hall would say, one, two, And the guy at the other end of the hall would say, use that machine.

这就是真实的自然情况。

And that's the natural truth.

瓦佐里。

Warzory.

用那个机器。

Use that machine.

这就是病毒式营销。

That's viral marketing.

是的。

Yeah.

他们

They

取得了不可否认的成功。

had an undeniable hit.

我们于1971年10月开始在电视上播出，那一年的销售额最终达到，我认为是1120万美元和75.39亿美元。

We started on TV in October '71, and that year, sales ended at, I believe, 11,200,000.0 and $7,539,000,000.

你把这归功于《灵歌列车》吗？

You attribute that to Soul Train?

当然了，绝对如此。

From oh, absolutely.

在公司成长过程中，其成功也吸引了黑人社区以外人士的关注。

Throughout its growth, the company's success also attracted attention from people outside the black community.

我开始收到证券经纪人的来访，有一家公司开始跟我谈让我上市的事。

I started getting visits from representatives of stockbrokers, and, one company started talking to me about taking me public.

1971年，约翰逊产品公司成为第一家在纽约证券交易所上市的黑人拥有的公司。

In 1971, Johnson Products Company made its debut as the first black owned company listed on the American Stock Exchange.

这感觉很重要吗？

Did that feel like a big deal?

这是一件大事。

It was a great deal.

那真是件大事。

It was a great deal.

我们去了纽约，当然他们直接铺上了红地毯。

We went to New York, and of course they just, you know, they they put the red carpet out.

哦，我们可真是风光。

Oh, we were fancy.

是啊。

Yeah.

是啊。

Yeah.

那真是一个非凡的时刻。

It was really a extraordinary time.

你觉得那就是你成功的时刻吗？

Did it feel like that was the moment you had made it?

是啊。

Yeah.

是的。

Yeah.

是的。

Yeah.

我就知道那时我成功了。

I knew I had made it then.

人们到处都在讨好我们。

People were just buttering us up all over the place.

不仅仅是讨好。

It wasn't just the buttering.

股票表现非常好。

The stock was doing really well.

乔治在上市前从未拿过实际工资。

George had never paid himself an actual salary before going public.

而现在，他第一次真正有了钱在口袋里。

And now for the first time, he had real money in his pocket.

他买了一艘船，购置了房产，还买了一栋带游泳池的漂亮房子。

He bought a boat, purchased property, a nice house with a pool.

他开始打网球和滑雪。

He took up tennis and skiing.

琼不再管账了。

Joan was not doing the books anymore.

她飞往巴黎购物，并成为芝加哥所有顶级设计师店铺的常客。

She was flying to Paris to shop, and she became a staple at all the top designer shops in Chicago.

我们去纽约市度假，途中经过了一家劳斯莱斯经销商。

We went on a vacation to New York City, and we passed by a Rolls Royce dealer.

她往里一看，看到一辆白色敞篷劳斯莱斯，内饰是红色的，就说：‘我想要这辆车。’

And she looked in and saw a white convertible Rolls Royce with red interior and said, I'd like to have that car.

我为他买了这辆车。

And I bought it for him.

天哪。

Oh my gosh.

嗯。

Yeah.

事情进展得很顺利。

Things were good.

那个曾在巷子里卖铝球赚几分钱的孩子，如今发达了。

That kid who had sold balls of aluminum in the alley for pennies was big time.

他的黑人顾客从未如此认同他的产品，他的公司登上了华尔街。

His black customers had never identified more with his products, and his company was on Wall Street.

这意味着更多的钱，但更少的控制权。

What that meant was way more money, but way less control.

你有没有开始重写它？

Did you ever start rewriting it?

立刻就做了。

Right away.

那是广告之后的事。

That's after the break.

在上市之前，乔治和琼·约翰逊一直通过满足客户的需求来建立他们的公司。

Up until going public, George and Joan Johnson had built their company by giving their customers what they wanted.

直发和非洲式发型、愿意给他们贷款的银行、支持民权运动，以及一档火爆的电视节目。

Straight hair and afros, a bank that would give them loans, backing for the civil rights movement, and a banging TV show.

但上市之后，约翰逊夫妇就必须向董事会交代了。

But after going public, the Johnsons had to answer to a board.

乔治在思考黑人消费者和董事会。

George was thinking about the black consumer and the board.

乔治说，他们当时考虑的是股东。

George says they were thinking about the shareholder.

乔治被要求聘请一位真正的营销总监，而不是让他哥哥和自己兼任。

George was asked to hire a quote real marketing director instead of his brother and himself.

乔治告诉我们，在新的营销总监——一个白人——的带领下，公司销售额首次停滞不前。

And George told us under the new marketing director, a white guy, the company sales went flat for the first time.

但乔治还遇到了另一个大问题。

But George also ran into another big problem.

现在他们是上市公司了，公司的一切都公开了。

Now that they were public, everything about the company was public.

乔治说，因为他知道作为证券交易所唯一一家黑人拥有的公司，他们受到了更多关注，因此他感到额外的压力，必须把每件事都做到完美。

And George says because he knew there was increased scrutiny on them as the only black owned company on the stock exchange, he felt extra pressure to get everything absolutely right.

因此，在所有官方文件中，约翰逊夫妇详细列出了他们每种产品的利润情况，比如哪里的利润最高。

So in all of their official paperwork, the Johnsons broke down exactly how much they were making on each of their products, like where they were getting the best profits.

我们希望走在前面，提供真实坦诚的报告。

We wanted to be out front and be and give a good honest report.

但我们做得过头了，这并不明智。

And we overdid that, and that was not smart.

为什么这不明智？

Why was it not smart?

因为白人公司直到我们发布这份报告后，才知道我们在做什么。

Because I the white companies didn't know what we were doing until we issued that report.

当那些之前没有关注非裔美国人作为盈利市场的人看到这一点时？

And when people who hadn't been paying attention to black Americans as a profitable market saw that?

他们醒悟了。

They woke up.

是的。

Yeah.

他们醒悟了。

They woke up.

我认为当他们看到那份年度报告时，就醒悟了。

I think they woke up when they saw that first annual report.

所以你为他们画了一张蓝图。

So you wrote a blueprint for them.

没错。

That's right.

然后他们开始感兴趣了。

Then they got interested.

其他更大的公司意识到他们之前错过了多少利润。

Other bigger companies realized how much money they'd been leaving on the table.

比如美宝莲这样的化妆品巨头。

Like Revlon, the cosmetics giants.

现在他们推出了自己的直发器，而他们是一家已确立的国际公司。

Now they created their own hair straightener, and they were an established international company.

尽管乔治现在有了劳斯莱斯级别的财富，但他没有美宝莲那样的资金。

Even though George now had Rolls Royce money, he did not have Revlon money.

他们的产品是个好产品。

Their product was a good product.

真奇怪他们没把我们彻底击垮。

It was a wonder they didn't wipe us out.

没有。

No.

美宝莲的拉直剂并没有击垮约翰逊的产品。

The Revlon relaxer did not wipe out Johnson products.

真正击垮约翰逊产品的，除了几个典型的商业失误外，就是我们这一集的最终发型——卷发造型。

What really did wipe Johnson products out though, aside from a few sort of typical business missteps, was the final hairstyle of our episode, the Jeri curl.