高原适应——误区、科学与经验

欢迎回到战术登山播客的又一期节目，我们在这里与山地作战的领导者、专业登山向导和运动员对话。

Welcome back to another episode of the tactical alpinism podcast, where we talk with leaders in mountain warfare, professional mountain guides, and athletes.

所有这些都旨在突出山区休闲与军事最佳实践之间的交叉点。

All with the intent to highlight the crossover between recreational and military best practices in the mountains.

我是Mauri，今天的节目聚焦于山区最大的一个误区，那就是认为身体状态好就能抵御高原反应。

My name is Mauri, and today's episode is focusing in on one of the biggest myths in the mountains, which is that being in great shape protects you from altitude.

通常并非如此。

It generally doesn't.

事实上，一些最健壮的人往往是最快在山区陷入困境的人。

And in fact, some of the fittest people are the ones that get them into trouble get themselves into trouble fast and first in the mountains.

今天的节目就是要深入探讨其中的原因。

And today's episode is looking at unpacking the why.

我见过非常健壮的运动员在海拔超过12000英尺时难以继续攀登，而有些人在海平面上的体能水平只有他们一半，却看起来完全轻松自如。

I've watched really, really fit athletes struggle to continue climbing once they get above 12,000 feet while someone half their parent level fitness at sea level looks completely comfortable.

今天的节目将重点讨论你的身体在高原上到底发生了什么，如何适应高原，可能出现的问题，以及如何为前往更高海拔做准备，无论你的目标是第一次攀登科罗拉多州的十四峰，还是远征海拔超过一万八千到两万英尺以上的山峰。

Today's episode is gonna focus in on talking about what your body is actually doing at altitude, how that acclimation works, what can go wrong, and how you can prepare for going to higher altitude, whether your goal is your first Colorado fourteener or an expedition to over eighteen, twenty plus thousand feet.

首先，我们来聊聊一些科学知识和适应高海拔的关键部分，以及身体到底在发生什么变化，这样大家都能有个更全面的了解。

To start, we're gonna talk some of the science and some of the key portions of acclimation and what is actually happening to just increase our level of understanding collectively.

其实在高海拔地区，空气中的氧气含量并没有减少。

There isn't actually less oxygen in the air at altitude.

地球上任何海拔高度的空气中，氧气含量都大约是21%。

There is approximately 21% oxygen at every single altitude on earth.

不同的是，随着海拔升高，气压和空气密度会变化，这意味着氧气分子之间的距离越来越大，所以每次呼吸进入体内的氧气分子数量就减少了。

The difference is that the barometric pressure, the density of the air, changes as we increase in altitude, meaning that those molecules of oxygen are further and further apart so that every breath delivers fewer molecules of oxygen into our system.

这就是为什么高海拔会影响每个人。

This is why altitude affects everybody.

身体有几种不同的反应方式，我会把它们分成短期、中期和长期适应来讲解。

There's a few different ways that the body responds, and I'm going to break that out into the immediate, the midterm, and then the long term adaptations.

我们身体的即时生理反应发生在几分钟内，基本上就是头一个小时左右。

So our immediate physiologic response is within minutes and really in that first hour or so.

这应该是每个去过高原的人都经历过的。

And this is what every single person who has been to altitude has likely experienced.

我们会看到呼吸频率加快，心率一开始也会升高，运动能力下降，尤其是在高强度运动时，同时主观疲劳感（RPE）也会增加。

We're going to see an increased breathing rate and initially elevated heart rate, reduced exercise capacity, especially at peak levels, and then an increased RPE or rate of perceived exertion.

这就是为什么在海平面轻松行走的速度，到了高海拔突然变得吃力很多。

This is why hiking at sea level at a pace that is easy for us, all of a sudden becomes quite a bit harder as we go up in altitude.

在高海拔地区，第二件经常发生的事情——虽然不一定和海拔直接相关——就是我们通常要上坡下坡。

The second thing that is often happening at altitude, and this is not necessarily altitude related, is we're typically going up and downhill.

如果你背过行军包，比如在座的军人朋友，在平地上，背包的重量一开始不会明显拖慢你的速度。

And if you've rucked, for those of the military in the audience, the weight of that ruck doesn't dramatically slow down your pace initially, when you're on the flats, when you're in flatter terrain.

但一旦开始上坡，速度就会大幅下降。

As soon as you start going uphill, that dramatically slows us.

所以上坡训练本身也是一个完全不同的系统。

And so training uphill is also a dramatically different system.

所以这里有两个因素在起作用。

So we have two things that are at play there.

一个是海拔，另一个是上坡下坡。

One is the altitude, and the second is the up and downhill.

特别是上坡，如果你没有专门训练过上坡，那也会让我们慢很多。

The uphill in particular, if you have not trained uphill specifically, will also dramatically slow us down.

接下来我们进入中期适应阶段。

Then we get into the midterm adaptations.

这里的主要变化是呼吸加快还在继续，但我们开始提高保留所吸入氧气的能力。

The major ones here are continuing with that increased ventilation, but we are starting to improve our ability to keep some of that oxygen that we load.

我们的肾脏开始进行补偿。

Our kidneys are starting to compensate.

所以，如果你在高海拔地区睡过觉或者待了一整天，你可能会注意到自己尿得更多，因为肾脏开始更努力地工作。

And so if you've say slept at altitude or spent a long day at altitude, you might notice that you are peeing more because our kidneys are starting to work harder.

然后，由于肾脏工作更努力，我们的血浆量，也就是血液总量，会开始减少，而因为血浆量减少，红细胞密度会增加，这可能会开始让氧气输送略有改善。

Then our because of the kidneys working harder, our plasma volume, our total volume of blood is going to start to decrease or reduce, and we are getting increased density of red blood cells as a result of that plasma volume reduction, which starts to lead to slightly improved oxygen delivery, maybe.

中期和最初几小时适应阶段的负面影响是，血液变得更稠，所以如果我们不通过其他方式补偿，身体就更难把血液泵到全身。

The negative to that midterm and the initial hours adaptations is that our blood becomes denser, and so it becomes harder for our body to pump it around our system if we aren't compensating for it in some other way.

如果我们没有让血液密度大幅增加——有一些方法可以抵消这个，我稍后会讲到——那么几天后，我们确实会开始看到氧气输送的改善。

If we don't get dramatically increased blood density, and there's some ways to offset that, I'll talk later in this discussion, then we do start to get improved oxygen delivery over a few days.

所以在中期阶段，我们说的是几小时到几天，适应开始发生，大概在六小时到几天之间。

And so in the midterm, again, we're talking hours to days, the adaptations that started to happen, say between six hours and a few days.

最后是长期适应，我们说的是几周时间，真的就是从一到六周以上。

Finally, the long term adaptations, we're starting to talk about over weeks, Really from like one to six plus weeks.

这些适应才是真正让我们在高海拔地区能够发挥表现，而不仅仅是生存和避免高原反应。

And these are the adaptations that really make a difference in our ability to perform at that altitude instead of really just live at that altitude and prevent altitude issues.

那些长期适应包括增加红细胞生成、增加血红蛋白、细胞层面的代谢适应，以及其他效率方面的提升。

Those longer term adaptations are increased red bell blood cell production, increased hemoglobin, adaptations, metabolic adaptations at the cellular level, and then other points of efficiency.

增加血红蛋白和红细胞是提高我们在高海拔表现的两个主要适应，因为红细胞密度增加意味着我们血液能携带更多氧气，这样每次呼吸就更高效。

Our increased, increased hemoglobin and the increased red blood cells are two of the primary adaptations that increase our ability to perform at altitude because one, increased density of red blood cells means that we now have the ability to carry more oxygen in our blood, meaning that each breath becomes more efficient.

血红蛋白基本上是氧气与红细胞结合的媒介，帮助氧气从肺部运输到组织。

The hemoglobin is the hemoglobin is essentially the binding agent for that oxygen to the red blood cells, and really helps it transport from the lungs into our tissues.

所以它是氧气在我们体内工作的运输分子。

And so it's the, it's the transport molecule for oxygen to work in our system.

讨论这些短期、中期和长期适应的重点是，不是所有适应都能在一次周末旅行中发生。

The important thing of talking about these short, medium and long term adaptations is to make the point that not every adaptation occurs during a weekend trip.

而且，也不是所有的适应能力都会在长期内消失。

And then also that not every adaptation disappears over the long term.

不过，长期适应能力通常需要更长时间才会消失，而短期适应能力消失所需的时间，大致和它们形成所需的时间差不多。

However, long term adaptations generally take a longer time to disappear and the short term adaptations generally take a similar amount of time to disappear as they did to come.

所以，即使离开高海拔地区几天，你也会开始看到你的高原适应能力有所下降。

And so even a few days away from altitude, you can start to see a decrease in your altitude acclimation as well.

在这一集里，如果我不先讲讲高原病的相关内容，就继续往下讲，那就太不应该了。

I'd be remiss in this episode if I didn't talk some of the altitude illness pieces before continuing to go further.

高原病主要有三种。

And there are three primary pieces of altitude illness.

第一种是急性高山病，它的严重程度可以从相对轻微到相当严重。

The first is acute mountain sickness can which can go from relatively minor to decently severe.

症状包括头痛、疲劳、睡眠不好、食欲不振、恶心。

And that looks like headache, fatigue, poor sleep, loss of appetite, nausea.

到了高海拔地区出现这些症状，并不是什么软弱的表现。

And it's not necessary it is not a weakness when you get to altitude.

这基本上是我们身体的生理反应，告诉我们该放慢脚步了，有什么地方不太对劲。

It's a physiological response essentially of our body telling us to slow down and that something isn't quite right.

就像脱水常常会引起头痛和疲劳感一样，或者热加上比如缺乏营养之类的，也会有同样的效果。

Just like being dehydrated will often create a headache and a feeling of fatigue as well, or heat can do the same thing when paired with, say, lack of nutrition or whatnot.

所以这些症状开始出现的时候，我们就要想，是不是到了高海拔地区？

And so these are the symptoms that are starting to show of like, are we at altitude?

我们的身体是否完全适应了？

Is our body fully acclimated?

这些症状本身并不是问题。

And they aren't an issue on their own.

但如果你把它们看作一个从轻到中到重的等级，轻的可能只是有点背景性的不适，比如有点头痛，或者有点恶心，但你还能吃饭，还能活动，基本上没什么大碍，那通常就不是问题。

But if you start to look at them as say a scale from light to moderate to severe, light meaning it might just be sitting in the background, maybe you have a headache, maybe a little bit of nausea, but you're still eating, you're still moving, not really having issues, then it's generally not an issue.

但如果恶心到呕吐，或者头痛到看不清东西，或者需要吃大量的非甾体抗炎药和其他药物来缓解头痛，那就说明问题开始严重了，我们需要采取行动了。

But if we start to get nausea to the point of vomiting or a headache to the point of where we can't really see straight, or we have to take a ton of NSAIDs and other medications to offset that headache, then we're starting to progress into where it definitely is an issue, and we need to do something about it.

高原肺水肿和高原脑水肿，HAPE指的是肺水肿，HACE指的是脑水肿，是接下来的两种，它们都是相当严重的问题。

High altitude pulmonary edema and high altitude cerebral edema, HAPE for pulmonary edema and HACE for cerebral edema are the next two, and they're fairly, they are significant issues.

现在的情况是，我们的肺部或者大脑周围开始出现积液。

What's happening is we're starting to get fluid accumulation in the lungs or around the brain.

肺部积液在一般意义上和肺炎很相似，它开始降低我们肺部的效率。

The fluid accumulation in the lungs is pretty similar to pneumonia in a general sense, and it is starting to decrease the efficiency of our lungs.

它的迹象包括，比如你可能会有点干咳或者湿咳，或者呼吸时有咕噜咕噜的声音，或者呼吸时几乎有咔哒声。

Signs of that is you might get a bit of a hacking or a wet cough, for example, and, or like a gurgling breathing sensation or some like almost clicking in your breathing.

脑水肿你可能自己注意不到，但你周围的人会发现，因为你会有意识混乱、协调能力差和精神状态改变。

Cerebral edema is something that you're probably not going to notice yourself, but people around you will, because you're going to have confusion, poor coordination, and an altered mental status.

精神状态改变是关键，当它出现时，就明确表示问题严重了。

That altered mental status being like the key thing to look for where it's definitively becoming an issue.

所有这些情况的主要治疗方法是在AMS症状达到中度或重度时下山。

The primary treatment for all of these is to descend when they get to severe or moderate on the AMS level.

如果我们开始看到HAPE或HACE的任何迹象或症状，那就必须下山。

And then if we start to see any signs or symptoms of HAEP or HACE, those are definitively to descend.

现在，有一些药物可以用来减轻其中一些症状的影响。

Now there are medications that can be taken to decrease the effect of some of them.

但是如果你开始服用这些药物，一般建议也是要下撤。

But if you start taking those medications, then the general recommendation is to also descend.

我不是医生，所以具体怎么用这些药，最好还是咨询你的主治医生或者探险队的医生。

I'm not a medical doctor, so I would leave that to like, look at your primary care physician or an expedition doctor for the exact recommendations on how to use those certain medications.

我一开始提到的一个重要误区是，体能好并不一定就能避免高原反应。

The important myth that I kinda started this episode with is that fitness doesn't necessarily prevent altitude issues.

这有几个原因。

There's a few reasons for that.

一个是体能好的人往往上升速度更快，这会增加他们的风险。

One is that fit people often can ascend faster, which can increase their risk.

然后，在某种程度上，体能好确实是个保护因素，因为同样的速度下，有氧能力更强的人付出的努力更少，而有氧能力较弱的人需要付出更多。

And then where it is a protective factor in a way is that at the same pace, a more fit person is putting out, a more aerobically fit person is putting out less effort than a less aerobically fit person.

所以，那个相对强度更高的人，恢复需求也更大。

And so that person that is working at a higher relative intensity has a greater recovery need.

所以，在第二个例子中，那个体能较差的人，反而更容易出现高原反应。

And so that less fit person in that example, the second example here is going to be the one that is going to have more altitude issues.

所以，一个身体好的人如果爬得太快，反而会增加自己的风险。

So a fit person can make their risk higher by ascending faster.

但如果你在团队里，而且你恰好是那个体能更好的人，那么你在上升过程中不用那么费力，可能就能稍微抵消一些高原反应的问题。

But if you're moving in a group and you happen to be the more fit person, then you may be offsetting a little bit of that altitude issue by not working as hard on the way up.

其实，这部分最重要的建议就是放慢你的速度。

And really the main, the main takeaway from that piece is to slow your pace down.

在高原上，你绝对不想，或者说很少想，让自己处于那种呼吸特别急促的强度。

You never wanna be, or rarely wanna be working at a effort level where you're breathing super hard when you're at altitude.

一般来说，你应该保持一种能聊天的速度，这样你在整个移动过程中都能一直说话。

Generally you want to be moving at a conversational pace where you can continue to hold a conversation the entire time you're moving.

这可能让你觉得自己走得慢得难受，但没关系。

And that may start to feel like you're moving painfully slow and that is okay.

在高原上活动时，这样做带来的好处远大于坏处。

That is going to help way more than it is going to hurt when it comes to how we're working at altitude.

那么，我们怎么开始适应高原呢？

Now, what can we do to start working on our acclimation?

首先，我会关注海拔高达14000英尺的山脉，这在美国本土和欧洲很常见。

And initially I'm going to look at for mountains up to 14,000 feet, which is a lot of what we have in the Continental United States and in Europe.

我们这里的地形其实不多。

We don't have a ton of terrain.

美国本土没有超过15000英尺的地形，欧洲超过15000英尺的地形也很少。

We have no terrain in the Continental United States that goes above 15,000 feet, and we have very little terrain in Europe that goes above 15,000 feet.

大多数情况下，我们得去南美、阿拉斯加或喜马拉雅才能找到那样的地形。

We have to go to South America, Alaska, the Himalaya, to get that type of terrain in most cases.

在美国，典型的目标包括科罗拉多的十四峰、惠特尼山、沙斯塔山、雷尼尔山，以及内华达山脉和喀斯喀特山脉中的其他一些山峰。

Typical objectives in The United States are gonna look like the Colorado Fourteeners, Mount Whitney, Mount Shasta, Mount Rainier, and some of the other like peaks that you might see in some of the mountain ranges that those those mountains sit in from the Sierra Nevada to the Cascades.

首先，我们来看看周末战士的策略，就是你住在海平面，开车或飞过去爬山，没有太多时间适应高海拔。

First, we'll look at a weekend warrior strategy where you're like living at sea level and you're drying or flying to climb and you just don't have the time to spend a ton of time getting acclimated.

首先，采用这种策略，你得明白自己会承担更高的风险，因为你没有适应高海拔。

First, with this strategy, you just have to recognize you're gonna be accepting a higher level of risk because you aren't acclimated.

不过，这完全可行，但你要了解自己身体的反应，或者特别注意在高海拔移动时身体的反应。

However, it's totally doable, but you want to know how your body responds and or really pay attention to how your body responds as you move up at those altitudes.

所以首先，如果可能的话，你最好提前一天到达海拔六千到九千英尺的地方。

So first it's like, if possible, you want to arrive one day early to something between six to 9,000 feet.

这样你就能在第一天就开始获得一些早期的中期适应。

That way you can start getting some of those the early midterm adaptations in just that first day.

这真的能帮助缓解其他一些问题。

That really can help offset some of the other issues.

然后你最好在六千到九千英尺的高度睡觉，或者任何比海平面高的地方。

Then you want to sleep at that like six to 9,000 foot range or really like any range higher than sea level.

所以如果是四千英尺，因为那是沙斯塔山小镇或惠特尼山附近毕晓普镇的酒店所在地，那么即使这样也比在海平面睡觉要好，而且你会比直接推到九千英尺睡得更舒服。

So if it's 4,000 feet, because that's where the hotels are in the town of Mount Shasta or the town of Bishop for looking at Mount Whitney, then like even that is better than sleeping at sea level and you'll get a better night's sleep than if you push all the way to 9,000.

所以不要把这当成必须达到最高海拔的事情。

So don't think of this as one of the things where you have to max out that range.

差不多到六千英尺左右，你就能从中获得很多好处。

It's like, to that like 6,000 ish line and you're going to get ton of benefit from it.

如果你前一天去徒步，也许能上到九千或一万英尺，如果你能比较容易地到达那种地形的话。

If you go for a hike the day before, maybe go up to nine or 10, if you have the ability to get into that terrain fairly easily.

但前一天别搞得太累。

But don't go put out a huge effort the day before.

第一天保持轻松，多喝水，确保摄入足够的热量来支撑接下来的几天。

Keep that first day pretty easy, stay well hydrated and make sure you're getting the calories on board to support the next few days.

因为如果你一开始就缺水缺粮，要花好几天才能恢复过来。

Because that food and the water intake, if you're starting in the hole, it takes days to recover from it.

所以确保营养充足、水分充足，会让你准备得更充分。

And so really making sure you're well nutritioned and well hydrated means that you're going to be so much more well prepared.

另外还要考虑的是，出发前一周你的训练情况怎么样？

The other thing to look at is what does your training look like the week before you go?

因为相比我们很多人习惯的训练强度，去爬惠特尼山算是比较低强度的活动，但你还是应该把训练量降下来，尤其是第一次去那么高的海拔。

Because, well, it's going to be a comparatively low intensity outing to say, go hike Mount Whitney compared to the training a lot of us are used to doing, you're gonna wanna scale it back, especially if it's your first time going to that altitude.

这样你才能感觉完全恢复好了。

So you feel completely fresh.

这就像是为一个重要比赛做的赛前调整一样。

And this could look like like a peaking for a main event that you might have.

所以也许在出发前那一周，你可以把总的有氧训练量减少到平时的30%到50%，甚至更少。

So maybe you drop your total aerobic volume in that week leading up to it by 30 to 50% of your normal, if not even more.

这样你出发时会感觉完全休息好了。

So that you go in feeling completely rested.

为什么这很重要呢？

Why does this matter?

因为当你真正到达山上的时候，你的腿会感觉好很多。

It's like your legs are going to feel so much better when you actually arrive to the mountain.

而且你也能做出更好的决定，因为你不是在疲劳状态下做决定，尤其是在山上或者去完成目标的时候。

And then you're you're gonna be able to make better decisions because you're not making decisions from a fatigue state while you're actually on the mountain or going for the objective they're going for.

所以体能和适应海拔是相辅相成的。

So the fitness and the acclimation do complement each other.

最常见的错误就是一开始感觉不错就冲得太快。

Super common mistakes are just like going too fast out of the gate when you feel good.

要记住，一开始就要放慢速度。

It's like, take it slower right up front.

前一晚别喝酒，因为那会影响你的睡眠质量。

Don't drink alcohol the night before because it reduces your sleep quality.

它还会让你脱水，而且在你上山之前就会对你产生影响。

It reduces your hydration and it does affect you before you go up into the mountains.

吃得不够或者节奏控制不好，这些都会在你去高海拔地区时给你带来麻烦。

Undereating or poor pacing, like those are all going to be issues that, that create issues as you try to go up in altitude.

我们刚才一直在讨论周末战士的策略。

Now we've been talking weekend warrior strategy here.

如果你是在周末单日进行，那么你到达后的周五、周六可能有一天、两天或者半天的时间，也许再加一个适应日。

And if you're doing it as a single day over the weekend, then maybe you have like one day, two day or a half day when you first arrive on Friday, Saturday, maybe another like acclamation day.

然后周日就可以去挑战大目标或者去更高的海拔了。

And then Sunday could be your day to go for the big objective or go to that higher altitude.

你越能放慢节奏，准备得就越充分。

The slower you can take it, the better you're going better prepared you're going to be.

在科罗拉多，有一个很好的方法可以轻松适应高海拔，不用费力，那就是开车到高海拔地区，比如洛弗兰德山口，那里有12000英尺的山口，或者开到派克斯峰或埃文斯山的山顶，那里可以开车到14000英尺，然后在那里待上一两个小时，走走逛逛，徒步什么的。

In Colorado, a great way to get some of that, like, easy exposure to the altitude without the effort is to drive to the altitude, either on locations like Loveland Pass, where you have 12,000 foot passes or to say the top of Pikes Peak or Mount Evans where you can drive to 14,000 feet and just spend a little bit, spend an hour or two up at that altitude, walking around, hiking, etcetera.

然后下山，好好休息，吃好喝好，睡在低海拔的地方，第二天再往高处走。

And then go back down, get well rested, well fed, well fueled, sleep low before you go up higher the next day.

所以现在这第一个讨论点和第二个讨论点，其实就展示了两种不同的做法。

And so this now has highlighted or that first discussion point and the second discussion point has highlighted sort of two of the different ways to do this.

一种是在高海拔的地方睡觉。

One is we can go sleep at an increased altitude.

另一种是在高海拔的地方活动。

And the other is that we can go be active at an increased altitude.

所以这两种方法，随着时间发展，慢慢形成了两种不同的策略，而且如果把它们有意地结合起来，效果会很好。

And so those are just like over time, two different methodologies that have developed and really pairing them deliberately can have a lot of good effect.

我的意思是，你可以爬高睡低，这样恢复会更好，同时也能得到一些高海拔的刺激。

By that, I mean that you can climb high, sleep low, and in that case, you'll be getting way better recovery and you'll still be getting that a little bit of dosing of that altitude.

但另一种选择是爬低练低，睡高。

But the other option is climb low, train low, sleep high.

这样你就能进行更高强度的训练。

So you're going to get higher intensity.

你可以进行更高强度的训练或更高质量的锻炼。

You can get higher intensity training or higher quality training.

然后当你在高海拔地区睡觉时，你暴露在高海拔环境中的时间就增加了。

And then when you sleep at those higher altitudes, you are getting a increased amount of time exposed to the high altitude.

研究明确表明，在高海拔地区活动是有益的，因为与在高海拔睡觉相比，活动会带来不同的适应效果，而且这两者其实都很有价值。

There's definitively in the research benefit to being active at high altitudes because you do get different adaptations from being active versus sleeping at higher altitudes, and really both are valuable.

但你不应该在没有适应的情况下，同时进行高海拔攀登、训练和睡觉。

But what you don't want to do is do the climb high, train high, sleep high all together without being acclimated.

为什么？

Why?

因为这会大大降低你的睡眠质量，从而影响你的恢复。

Because you are going to dramatically reduce your sleep quality, which decreases your recovery.

而且如果你逼得太紧，很可能会感到恶心，不想吃东西。

And likely if you're pushing it too hard, you're going to start getting nauseous and you're not going to want to eat as much.

所以这些因素会叠加起来，导致你的恢复效果更差，这意味着你接下来几天就不太可能出去付出努力了。

So all these things are going to compound and you're going to get way poorer recovery, meaning that you're not going to be as able to go out and put out effort the following days.

现在我要讲超过14000英尺的情况，开始讨论远征攀登，或者去像德纳利这样的地方，那里海拔超过20000英尺，还有南美洲的一些地方，比如安第斯山脉和厄瓜多尔的火山，这些地方的海拔接近或略高于20000英尺。

Now I'm going to transition beyond the 14,000 foot mark and start talking more about expedition climbing or going to locations like Denali, where we're going over 20,000 feet in the South some of the South American locations like the Andes and the Ecuador volcanoes that are getting up towards and a a little bit above 20,000 feet.

当然，还有喜马拉雅山和阿空加瓜山，这些是七大洲最高峰的选择，还有一些8000米以上的高峰。

Obviously, we also have the Himalaya in there and Aconcagua as some of the seven summit options and some of the, like, the 8,000 meter peak high high options.

我主要会以德纳利和厄瓜多尔的火山为例，因为很多人会先去这些地方，第一次尝试接近20000英尺或6000米的高度。

Primarily, I'm gonna be focusing on examples like Denali and the Ecuador volcanoes, because those are gonna be where people are gonna go, many people are gonna go to initially get their first dose of going up to around 20,000 feet or 6,000 meters.

所以首先改变的是，适应高海拔变成了一个明确的目标，而不仅仅是我们接近目标的方式，而且这不再是一个周末就能完成的事情。

So what changes first is that acclimation becomes a deliberate objective and not simply the way that we are going to approach the objective, and it becomes less of a thing that we can do in a weekend.

时间成为我们最关键的资源之一，因为我们需要花时间逐步上升。

Time becomes one of our most critical resources because we're going to have to spend time working our way higher.

所以在这里，我们会采用“爬高”的策略，比如徒步到14000英尺、15000英尺、16000英尺，然后逐渐增加高度。

And so here we're going to have the climb high, where we're going to maybe go for a hike up to 14,000 feet, 15,000 feet, 16,000 feet, we're going to gradually progress that.

然后我们会睡在较低的地方来恢复，然后再重复这个过程。

And then we'll sleep lower to recover and then we'll repeat it over time.

这就是为什么远征队会花时间移动营地，并在山上设置多个不同的营地，这样我们可以逐步增加海拔暴露的时间。

This is why expeditions will spend time moving camps and have multiple different camps across a mountain is so that we can progress our altitude exposure over time.

很多从美国本土或欧洲来的人，第一次在14000英尺的高度睡觉时，都会低估它的影响。

One thing that a lot of folks coming from like the Continental US or Europe underestimate is the impact of sleeping at 14,000 feet when they first do it.

因为去14000英尺或4000米很容易，在阿尔卑斯山和美国，比如在阿尔卑斯山，可以坐缆车或索道很快到达很高的地方，几个小时内就能到。

Because it's so easy to go up to 14,000 feet, 4,000 meters in the Alps and in The US, like in the Alps, can take Telferik or a tram pretty darn high up in the mountains and be there within a few hours.

在美国，你可以开车翻过山口，比如到格温内拉山口顶部，海拔超过11000英尺，然后几个小时内就能到达比尔施塔特山顶，海拔14000英尺。

In The US, you can drive in passes to say the top of Gwinella Pass at a little over 11,000 feet and be at the top of Mount Bierstadt at 14,000 in a matter of hours as well.

感觉去14000英尺好像挺平常、挺简单的。

It's like, it feels like going to 14,000 feet is fairly pedestrian and fairly simple.

但一旦你在那里睡觉，你的暴露量就会大幅增加。

Once you start sleeping there, our volume of exposure increases dramatically.

所以，睡眠海拔就成了我们真正需要精心管理的事情。

And so, the sleep altitude becomes the thing that we are really managing deliberately.

关于这个主题的一些文献建议，睡眠海拔的增加每天不要超过1000英尺，也就是大约300米。

Some of the literature on this topic recommends increasing the sleep altitude more no more than 1,000 feet or about 300 meters per day.

所以，通常来说，这看起来可能不是每天把营地往上移1000英尺，而是你可能先到11000英尺的营地，在那里待三天，白天可能会往上走，然后再过三天把营地移到14000英尺。

And so typically, what this could look like is you're not gonna just move camp a thousand feet higher every day, is that you might go to, say an 11,000 foot camp, spend three days there, and you might move above that during the day before you then progress your and move your camp three days later up to 14,000 feet.

你在11000英尺的高度花了三天时间，获得了那些中期的适应，现在你要搬到海拔14000英尺的地方睡觉了。

You spent three days getting those moderate medium term adaptations at 11,000 feet, and now you're gonna move to where you're sleeping at 14,000 feet.

这种渐进式的负荷系统，就是为什么这些探险活动可能需要几周时间，尤其是当我们开始挑战七八千米的山峰时。

This progressive loading system is something that, or is why that these expeditions can take weeks as we start looking at seven and eight thousand meter peaks.

另一个让我们花时间的原因是天气。

The other thing that makes us take time is weather.

所以我们要在高海拔地区留出安全余量，而在高海拔快速移动可能会减少我们的安全余量。

And so we want to build in our safety margins with this altitude and moving fast at the altitude can reduce our safety margins.

所以我们要确保有足够的余量，让我们能很好地适应高海拔。

So we want to make sure that we have appropriate adequate margins where we are acclimating well to the altitude.

因为我们的体能、适应能力、技术技能、装备，这些都是我们在天气变得非常恶劣时，能继续完成目标所依赖的余量。

Because our fitness, our acclimation, our technical skills, our equipment, all those are pieces that build our margins when say, the weather becomes really poor for doing what we are trying to do.

急于求成的代价包括：表现不佳，因为恢复不好，生病的风险增加，因为身体被逼到恢复的极限，可能无法登顶，甚至在最严重的情况下，可能导致死亡。

The cost of rushing becomes one, poor performance, poor because of poor recovery, increased chance of illness, because of how much of a recovery hole that you put your body into, potentially failing to summit, and ultimately potential death even on the the upper end of that scale.

2023年，有一位来自科罗拉多的登山者，他住在海拔大约6000英尺的地方，经常去攀登该州的十四ers。

In 2023, there was a climber that came from Colorado who lived at six ish thousand feet and was routinely going to the top of fourteeners in the state.

那位登山者很快就搬到了迪纳利海拔14000英尺的营地，大概三天吧，如果我没记错报告的话。

And that climber moved to 14,000 foot camp on Denali fairly quickly, about three days, if I remember the report correctly.

然后过了几天，天气开始变差了。

And then a few days later, some weather moved in.

他开始觉得不太舒服，就去14000英尺处的护林员医疗站检查了。

He started to feel not so great and went and checked into the Ranger med station that is at 14,000 feet.

那时，他们判断他可能患上了HACE，也就是高海拔脑水肿，尽管他之前已经爬到了17000英尺的高度。

At that point, they identified that he'd likely had HACE, high altitude cerebral edema, even though he'd been climbing to higher altitudes up to 17,000 feet.

于是护林员给他提供了补充氧气。

And so the rangers put him on supplemental oxygen.

有几天他们没法用飞机把那位登山者送出去。

There are a few days where they couldn't fly that climber out.

最后，那位登山者几天后被飞机送走，结果在医院去世了。

And ultimately, that climber got flown out a few days later and ended up dying in the hospital.

尽管在护林员营地时他吸了补充氧气，后来到了医院也一样。

Now, despite being on supplemental oxygen while in the ranger camp, and then once they got to the hospital.

当然，那个例子确实是个极端情况，但它确实凸显了移动过快、忽视其他潜在外部因素（比如天气、当天的身体状况、头痛以及整体感觉）的客观风险。

Now, that example is an edge case for sure, but it does highlight the objective risk of moving too fast and ignoring other potential outside factors like weather, like the condition that you're in that day, like headaches and how you're feeling in general.

另一方面，同一年，也就是2023年，我在德纳利，我们旁边扎营的一支队伍在11000英尺处，他们之前在14000英尺营地待了大约三天。

On the flip side, that same year, 2023, I was on Denali and there was a team that we camped next to at 11000 feet who had spent about three days at 14,000 foot camp.

当我们到达11000英尺时，那支队伍已经下撤了，因为他们担心队里有人得了高海拔肺水肿。

When we arrived to 11,000 feet, that team had descended because they were concerned about one member of the party having HAEP, high altitude pulmonary edema.

最后他们发现那个队友其实只是生病了，但他们还是决定下撤，因为他们想规避高海拔风险。

Ultimately, realized that that partner, that member of the team was simply sick, but they made the decision to send because they wanted to mitigate that high altitude risk.

那个登山者很快就恢复了，两三天后，他们又回到了14000英尺。

That climber got better quite quickly in two to three days later, they moved back to 14,000 feet.

那最终是个明智的决定。

And that was ultimately a smart call.

第一，因为他们试图弄清楚问题所在。

One, because they were trying to identify what the problem was.

第二，他们下撤到较低海拔，这样他恢复得更好，因为身体承受的压力更小。

And two, they moved to a lower altitude so that he was able to recover better, because the stress on the body was ultimately lower.

话虽如此，每个人的适应情况差别很大，而且你每次出行时的状态也会有很大不同。

All this being said, there's a ton of individual variation in there, and also a ton of variation in you from trip to trip.

所以有些人适应得很快，有些人则需要更多时间，而之前的经验，无论是适应过程还是自我照顾，再加上我们身体的长期记忆，都会很有帮助。

So some people adapt really rapidly, others require substantially more time, and then previous experience, both with the adapting and the self care, but then also with our body's essentially long term memory really helps.

所以，自我照顾加上身体在高海拔地区适应过的经历，似乎对那些经常去高海拔地区的人特别有益。

So both the self care and then our body having spent time adapting to altitude seems to really benefit people who are continually going up to those altitudes.

所以我想说的是，如果你有长期目标，你在高海拔地区待的时间越多，将来就越能为自己打好基础。

And so I say that to say it's like the more time you can spend at these higher altitudes, if you have long term goals, the better you're setting yourself up in the future.

现在，在出发之前，确实有一些方法可以让你为在高海拔地区度过时间做好准备。

Now, before you leave home, there are definitely ways that you can prepare to to spend time at altitude.

不过，这一集里我不打算详细讲人工适应的方法，因为下周我会专门出一集来讨论这个。

And the the one thing that I am not really gonna cover in this episode, because I have a whole separate episode coming next week on it, is looking at artificial means of acclimating.

关于在家进行人工适应的方法，我会在下一集里专门展开讨论。

I have a whole there's a whole separate discussion that'll be the next episode posted, looking at some of those means of acclimating at home.

但我会重点讲一下，除了人工适应之外，你在家里还能做些什么。

But I'm gonna focus in on what you can do at home outside of artificial acclimation.

首先，最重要的一点是体能训练，这可能跟我之前说的完全相反——体能好并不能让你免于高原反应，但这是你在家里能做的回报率最高的事情。

So first, and the biggest one is fitness training, which may be counter or maybe completely counter to what I've already said of fitness doesn't preclude you or protect you from altitude issues, but it gives you the most return on your investment from home.

那该重点练什么呢？

So what do you focus on?

你要关注肌肉耐力训练、有氧基础、动作效率、营养和睡眠。

You want to focus on your muscular endurance training, your aerobic base, your efficient movement, your nutrition, your sleep.

话说回来，如果你是个每周去健身房五次举铁的人，准备去爬雪山，想想这两种活动的专项性差异有多大。

All that being said is, if you're a person who spends five days a week in the gym lifting and you're getting ready to go for a mountain objective, think about the difference in the specificity of those events.

在登山过程中，你可能会连续移动三到八个小时，冲顶时甚至更久，而力量训练时你根本不会连续动那么长时间。

During a mountain objective, you might be moving for three to eight hours, maybe more during a summit push, and you're just not moving for that amount of time when you are doing strength training.

另外，如果你是体重较大的力量型运动员，肌肉是很耗能的。

Also, if you're a heavier strength athlete, muscle is expensive.

因为肌肉越多，需要供氧的组织就越多。

The more because you have more tissue to oxygenate.

所以最终，稍微减点重或者少一点肌肉，到了高海拔反而有好处。

And so ultimately losing a little bit of weight or having a little bit of less muscle is a benefit when you get to altitude.

反过来，如果你是个纯粹的耐力运动员，你可能需要多一点力量，因为如果你背着40磅的包连一步都迈不上去，那还有什么耐力可言。

On the flip side, if you're a purely endurance athlete, you might need a little bit more strength because if you can't do a step up with a 40 pound pack on, then there's nothing to endure.

如果你连最难的那一步都做不了，那耐力也就没地方用了。

If you can't do that hardest move for you, then there's nothing for you to have the endurance for.

所以你得看看自己的短板在哪里。

And so you need to look at where your weaknesses are.

但如果你是力量型运动员，这里我经常在军队圈子里看到一个问题，就是那种“你得够什么才能干什么”的群体，那么可能减掉一点肌肉量、降低身体对氧气的需求，对你来说会是非常有价值的好处。

But if you're a strength athlete, and this is where I see them a very common issue in the military circles, like we're, we're, you gotta be too something to do something, that crowd, then potentially losing a little bit of that muscle mass and decreasing your body's oxygen demands could be a really valuable benefit to you.

第二点是高效的动作。

The second piece is efficient movement.

所以如果你准备去完成一个需要攀爬的目标，不管是冰还是岩石，那么花点时间在攀岩馆、或者当地的岩石或冰面上练习会非常有益，因为你的动作越高效，你移动得就越好，消耗的能量就越少。

And so if you're getting ready to go do an objective that requires some climbing, whether it be ice or rock, then spending a little bit of time in the climbing gym or on some rock or on some ice in your local area can be very beneficial because the more efficient your movement becomes, the better you're going to move, the less energy you're going to use.

穿冰爪行走也是一样。

Same with cramponing and walking with crampons.

滑雪时穿雪鞋行走也一样，你在这些常见动作上越熟练，你的表现就会越好。

Same as skinning if you're skiing, the more efficient you can be at those common movements, the better off you're going to be.

像是有氧基础、高效的动作，还有营养和睡眠，这些才是我们最能掌控、最划算的地方。

Those like looking at the aerobic base, efficient movement, and then our nutrition or sleep, that's where the biggest bang for our buck, those are the things we can control.

第三就是我们的技术系统。

The third is gonna be our technical systems.

所以，确保你知道怎么做，比如进行冰川行走时，能高效地系好绳子、穿越冰川，还能高效地进行救援。

And so making sure you know how to, if you're doing glacier travel, you can tie in and move across that glacier efficiently, do a rescue efficiently.

如果可能的话，你要让这些技术变得熟练，这样在真正到达高海拔时，你就能应对自如。

If you need to make those a non factor so that you are dialed on them when you're actually at that altitude.

如果可能的话，你想获得一些自然暴露。

If possible, you wanna get some natural exposure.

所以，如果你住在科罗拉多斯普林斯，也许在旅行前的几个周末，你可以去一些中等海拔的地方训练。

And so if you're somebody that lives in Colorado Springs, maybe the few weekends before, you go train at some moderate elevations before your trip.

也许你每周开车到派克峰顶一两次，在出发去德纳利或厄瓜多尔，或者去爬另一座14座山峰之前，在那里跑跑步，这样你到达那些高海拔地区时，状态会更好。

Maybe you drive to the top of Pikes Peak once or twice a week and go for a run up there before you head up to a Denali trip or before you head down to Ecuador or before you go for another 14 or just that way you're moving that much better when you get to those altitudes.

不过，我要说的是，如果你进行那种去更高海拔训练的方式，你不想让那成为你的高强度训练，因为那样会浪费你的高强度训练。

Now, I'll say is what, if you're doing that type of training where you're going to higher altitude to train, You do not want that to be your high intensity training because you're wasting that high intensity.

你要把那些训练当作低强度、长时间的训练。

You want that to be your low, long training.

比如徒步、散步，或者非常轻松的跑步，如果心率太高，就改成走路。

It like where it's a hike, where it's a walk, it's an easy, easy, easy run, where if your heart rate goes too high, you start to walk anyways.

只要在高海拔地区待上一段时间，如果方便的话，真的很有帮助。

And just spending like simple time at those altitudes can be really beneficial if you have access to them.

接下来你可以做人工预适应，比如使用低氧帐篷、高压氧舱，或者其他模拟高海拔的系统。

The next thing you can do is artificial pre acclimation, which that's gonna look like using hypoxic tents, hyperbaric chambers, or simulate other simulated altitude systems.

我以后会专门用一期节目详细讲这个。

And I'm gonna talk way more about that in a coming episode.

从基础层面来看，研究结果表明，如果使用得当，这些方法可以显著减轻某些目标的高原适应负担，但成本更高，需要更多规划，而且必须持续使用。

At a very base level, the research success suggests that these can significantly reduce the acclimation burden for some objectives when used appropriately, but they have an increased cost and planning, and then you have to use them consistently.

不管怎样，在海拔11000英尺的地方睡觉，无论如何都会很难受。

And regardless, when you sleep at say 11,000 feet, it is going to suck either way.

醒来时也会感觉不太好。

And you're gonna wake up not feeling that great.

所以实际上就是把那种难受的感觉从山上搬到了你在家的时候。

And so it really just moves that suck from the time that you're on the mountain to while you're at home.

另一个负担是，也许你的另一半或者和你一起睡的人不想和你一起适应高海拔。

The other burden is that maybe your significant other or the partner you're, you might be sleeping with might not wanna be acclimating with you.

所以这就让你在睡觉的时候更难做到这一点。

And so it makes it harder to do it while you're sleeping.

所以这也可能会带来一些关系上的压力。

And so there could be some say relational stress that does bring in as well.

但对于时间有限的人来说，这可以带来巨大的好处，因为他们更想把时间花在高海拔活动上，而不是单纯地适应环境。

But they can be a huge benefit for the time restricted person who really wants to spend more time like doing things at altitude instead of simply acclimating.

现在，因为这个播客的很多听众是军人，而很多军人能接触到热环境。

Now, because a lot of the audience of this podcast is in the military and something many people in the military have access to is heat.

热环境是一个令人惊讶的东西，你可以利用它来帮助适应高海拔。

Heat is a surprising thing that you can use to your benefit when it comes to assisting with altitude acclimation.

这是过去十年左右耐力训练中发展出来的比较有趣的东西之一。

It's one of the more interesting things that's developed over the past decade or so in endurance training.

有些我以前合作过的教练把热称作穷人的海拔适应训练，但我觉得在热环境里活动得越多，效果就越好。

Heat's been called the poor man's altitude by some of the coaches I've worked with in the past, but I'm gonna argue that it the more active the time in the heat is, the better.

在这种情境下，被动热适应远不如主动热适应有效。

Passive heat acclimation is way less beneficial in this context than active.

传统上，热和海拔被认为是两回事，热适应是为了应对热，海拔适应是为了应对高海拔，但研究人员开始注意到一些生理适应是重叠的。

And so traditionally, heat and altitude have been thought of as two completely separate things, but or, and it's like heat prepares you for heat, altitude prepares you for altitude, but researchers started noticing some physiological adaptations that did overlap.

所以问题就变成了，这些适应能不能帮你更好地适应高海拔？

And so then the question becomes is like, can those adaptations help you arrive better for altitude?

那么哪些适应是重叠的呢？

And so what adaptations overlap?

首先，在热环境中，你的身体会努力吸收更多水分，所以血浆容量会扩张，血容量也会增加。

First, you get plasma volume expansion when you get heat because your body's trying to take on more water and so you get increased blood volume.

如果你还记得短期和中期适应，一开始血浆容量会下降。

And so if you remember back to the short and medium term adaptations, you have an initial loss of plasma volume.

所以热适应有助于抵消一部分血浆容量的损失，这意味着你的血液流动会更顺畅一些。

And so that heat adaptation helps offset some of that plasma volume loss, which means that your blood is actually able to flow a little bit more easily.

因为血浆容量增加或者说保留，你的每搏输出量会更好，心输出量也会提高。

You have better stroke volume and improved cardiac output because of that expansion of plasma volume or retention of plasma volume.

你的心脏不需要那么费力工作，所以你的心率实际上会更低。

Your your heart has to work less hard, therefore your heart rate is actually going to be lower.

所以，如果你出发前或离开家时血浆容量已经增加了，那么在适应高海拔的初期，你可能会处于一个更好的状态。

So starting with or leaving home with a increased level of plasma volume may leave you in a better position during those early days of acclimation.

第二，热训练可以提高心血管效率。

Second, heat training can lead to cardiovascular efficiency.

也就是说，在同样的最大运动强度下，你的心率会更低。

So you have a lower heart rate at some maximal work.

我的意思是，如果你在炎热的中午训练过，你可能会注意到，在同样的强度下，你的心率会大幅上升。

And what I mean by that is you, if you've trained in the middle of the day on a hot day, you might have noticed that your heart rate dramatically goes up for a given level of intensity.

这其实是在训练你的心脏去承受更高负荷，而训练强度本身并不需要那么高。

And so what that is doing is training your heart to work that harder, higher level of load without the intensity of training being as high.

所以，当你开始进行更多次最大强度训练时，心率会降低，体温也会降低，在很多情况下，你的心率也会稍微低一些。

And so now as you start to get more sub maximal, your heart rate and the temperatures are lower, your heart rate's gonna be a little bit lower as well in some cases, in many cases.

这有助于更好地调节体温，改善血液循环，而且当我们想到德纳利远征时，可能会觉得那里冷得要命，因为我们带了零下20度、零下40度的睡袋和所有那些防寒装备。

This is gonna help with better thermal regulation, and improve blood flow, which also like when we're thinking a Denali expedition, we might be thinking it's really fricking cold because we have brought our minus 20, minus 40 degrees sleeping bags and all this cold weather gear.

但实际上，在低海拔山区，我们处于7000英尺的高度。

Well, the lower mountain, we're at 7,000 feet.

你可能会像在温室里一样被烤着。

You can actually be kind of baking in a greenhouse.

所以这种体温调节也有助于我们早期适应，因为我们在穿越低海拔冰川时不会那么热，也就是说，虽然这是一种高原适应，但它是整体的生理压力，我们最终会从中受益，因为低海拔山区的炎热对我们影响不大。

And so that thermoregulation also helps our early acclimation because we're not getting as roasted by that heat while we're moving across the lower glaciers, meaning that while it is an altitude adaptation, it's an overall physiologic strain, and we're ultimately getting a win there because the heat on those lower mountains is not impacting us as much.

热和海拔有一个共同点，那就是它们都让人不舒服，我们的呼吸、心率和感知劳累程度都会增加。

One thing that both heat and altitude do have in common is that they are uncomfortable, and our breathing, our heart rate, and our rate of perceived exertion all increase.

所以，反复暴露似乎能提高我们对这种心理不适的耐受性。

So repeated exposure appears to improve our tolerance for that psychological discomfort.

虽然这不是直接的生理或身体上的交叉适应，但在决策、节奏控制和其他心理方面也会发生交叉适应。

And so while that that isn't a direct physiologic or physical crossover, there is decision making, pacing, and other mental crossovers that happen as well.

热并不会产生许多典型的高原适应特征。

Heat does not create many of the how like, hallmark altitude adaptations.

你不会增加红血球的生成。

You aren't getting increased red blood cell production.

你也不会增加血红蛋白。

You aren't getting increased hemoglobin.

你不会得到那种缺氧反应，但你会获得一些适应。

You aren't getting that hypoxic response, but you are getting some adaptations.

所以如果你没有任何办法模拟高海拔，那么适当的热刺激可以是一件有价值的事情。

So if you don't have access to any means of altitude, then a little bit of heat dosing can be a valuable thing that you can do.

所以归根结底，热刺激是有用的补充，但不是替代品。

So ultimately, heat is a useful supplement, but not a substitute.

如果你叠加太多压力因素，比如热刺激、高海拔、准备出发、工作压力、请假等等，再加上训练压力，你的身体可能会超负荷，导致生病。

And if you stack too many stressors, heat, altitude, getting ready to leave, work stress, taking time off, etcetera, plus the training stress, like you can overload your system and that can lead you to being sick.

所以我想建议一件事。

So I am gonna encourage, like, one thing.

别什么都试。

Don't try all the things.

第一次去海拔14000英尺的地方，出发前四周，每周加一天热暴露训练就够了，不用每天都做。

The first time you go for a 14,000 foot trip, maybe add in a day of heat exposure per week for the four weeks leading up to the trip, instead of doing every single day as heat exposure.

有氧训练方面，别一上来就猛练，每周练好几个小时甚至几十个小时。

For your aerobic based training, don't just like blast off and start doing hours and hours and hours or dozens of hours per week of aerobic training.

就按常规每周增加5%到10%的量，持续几周，直到出发前，重点放在有氧训练和适应上，而不是力量训练和适应。

Maybe just like tick it up at the normal five to 10% per week for a few weeks leading up to the trip where we're focusing more on that aerobic training and adaptations instead of strength training and adaptations.

小幅调整、循序渐进，比彻底改变训练方式、把所有方法都用在可能还没出现的问题上，效果要好得多。

And making those small tweaks at a reasonable rate is gonna lead to way more success than completely whole hog changing what you're doing and throwing everything at the potential problem that you don't even know if it's a problem yet.

这样还能省钱。

It'll also save you money by doing it that way.

说到热适应和海拔，热适应过程中，我们可能会脱水更严重。

As we're looking at this too, and still talking heat and altitude, as we're looking at heat adaptation, we can increase our dehydration.

但目标绝对不是让自己脱水。

And the goal is definitely not to become dehydrated.

热适应是靠反复的应激刺激，而不是看你能出多少汗。

Heat acclimation comes from the repeated stress, not from seeing how much sweat you can lose.

比如想想那些穿桑拿服或隔热服的人。

Like think people in those, the sauna suits or the heat suits.

水分补充不足绝对会影响你后续几天的恢复和训练质量。

Poor hydration will absolutely compromise your recovery and your training quality on subsequent days.

所以，少量多次的适应比一次性大量适应然后休息好几天或训练质量下降要好得多。

And so a little bit of dosing of it is way more valuable than doing a ton of dosing in one day and having to take a bunch of days rest or a bunch of days of lower training quality as a result.

在我们结束这次讨论和这一集之前，我想从实际角度看看，对于一次长期探险旅行，这具体会是什么样子。

As the final piece before we close this discussion and episode out, I'm gonna look at, like, practically, what can this look like when we're looking at a longer term expedition type trip.

你可能会看到，我这里会以德纳利为例，最终目标是在14000或17000英尺的高度睡觉，具体取决于你选择的营地，然后登顶，大约在20000英尺。

And you might see and for this, I'm gonna talk a Denali specific example where the ultimate goal is gonna be sleeping at 14 or 17,000 feet depending on the camps you choose to use, and then topping out and summoning at about 20,000 feet.

很多探险公司网站上列出的行程通常是20到21天，可能在山上的时间会稍微多一点。

The itinerary that you're gonna see on a lot of expedition companies websites is gonna be around twenty to twenty one days of total time and maybe a little bit more on the mountain.

这很大程度上是因为适应环境，还有需要把装备运上山。

And a lot of that is due to the acclamation and then also having to move gear up the mountain.

德纳利的适应行程比一些地方要慢一些，因为在高海拔地区要做的工作量非常大。

Denali is a little bit slower acclamation itinerary than some just because of the sheer amount of work that you end up doing at those altitudes.

比如说你去秘鲁或者厄瓜多尔，那里有很多外部资源，比如搬运工、骡子，还有车辆可以把你送到更高的海拔。

If you go to say Peru or Ecuador, for example, you have a lot of outside resources such as porters, mules, and also vehicles to get you to higher altitudes.

这样你减少的工作量就让你有空间在每天和每次训练之间更好地恢复。

And so the work that you are decreasing allows you the space to, to recover a little bit better between days and between sessions.

所以你不必走得那么慢。

And so you don't have to move quite as slow.

这些也不是人为的适应计划。

These are also not a artificial acclimation schedule.

这些更像是传统的，或者说我要举的例子是更传统的适应方式。

These are like more traditional or the the example I'm gonna give is a more traditional acclimation.

第零天，你到达阿拉斯加或者安克雷奇，基本上是在零海拔，也就是海平面。

So day zero, you arrive into Alaska or Anchorage at zero feet, essentially, you're at sea level.

到了安克雷奇，你会准备装备和食物，然后开车去塔尔基特纳，从那里起飞，或者从其他地区的某个起飞点出发。

When you get into Anchorage, you'll do your gear and your food prep, and then you'll drive to Talkeetna where you're gonna take off or whatever takeoff zone you're gonna be going from if it's some other region.

第二天可能还是准备装备和食物，或者可能是护林员简报。

Day two could be more of a gear and food prep, or it could be your ranger brief.

所以现在我们来看第二天，也就是和护林员见面，希望还能确认一下你用的空中出租车，然后飞进冰川。

And so now we're going to look at like day two as our ranger meeting and hopefully checking at the air taxi that you're using and then the fly in onto the glacier.

这是理想情况。

That's an ideal world.

实际上，前几天经常会有天气问题，导致你没法飞进去。

In reality, you'll often have weather that'll prevent you from flying in on those early days.

特别是在德纳利，你必须先和护林员见面才能飞进去，所以你得去领许可证，拿你的山地清洁罐，也就是CMC，还要听护林员的简报，然后才能飞进山里。

Denali specifically, you have to have a ranger brief before you're allowed to fly in, And so you have to go pick up your permit, pick up your mountain, clean mountain cans, your CMCs, and get an in brief from the rangers before you're allowed to fly onto, into the mountain.

从那里开始，我们希望第二天就能到达一号营地。

From there, we will hopefully move to Camp 1 all in that day two.

根据你到达的早晚，你可能要在停机坪等天气凉快下来，然后选择晚上出发。

Depending on how late you get in or how early you get in, you might wait at the airstrip for things to cool down and then move choose to move at night.

第三天，我们要考虑搬到一号营地或者二号营地。

Day three, we're now looking at a move to Camp 1 or Camp 2.

这可能是夜间行动。

This can be a move overnight.

如果我们中午左右到达，可能会等天气凉快一点，但至少会搬到一号营地，可能还会开始把一些装备运到二号营地。

If we got in like middle of the day, we might wait for it to get a little bit cooler, but we're gonna be moving to at least Camp 1 and potentially start bumping some gear up to Camp 2.

一号营地大约在海拔7000英尺。

Camp One's at about 7,000 feet.

二号营地可能在9000到10000英尺之间，或者高达11000英尺，取决于你的身体状况。

Camp 2 can either be around nine to 10,000 feet or up to 11,000 feet, depending on how you're feeling.

然后你会回到一号营地，在那里过夜。

Then you'll come back down to Camp 1 and sleep there instead.

从那里开始，我们至少已经住了两晚。

Camp or from there, we've now spent two nights at least.

海拔大约7000英尺。

It's about 7,000 feet.

所以我们要把装备搬上去，把营地搬到11000英尺，或者可能是10000到11000英尺。

And so we're gonna take our gear and move it up, move camp up to 11,000 feet or maybe 10 or 11,000 feet.

这次营地搬迁，我们要移动大约3000英尺的高度。

That equip, that camp move we're moving about 3,000 feet.

如果有人头疼得厉害，也可以选择在低处多待一天。

And if anybody's having severe headaches, you can always choose to stay lower for an additional day.

但理想情况下，我们会搬到德纳利山上11000英尺的营地。

But ideally we'll move up to the 11,000 foot camp on Denali.

有些队伍，第二天可能会变成休息日，因为搬运的日子很辛苦，要背着很重的东西走。

For some teams, that next day will end up being a rest day because the can't move days are pretty hefty days where you're moving with a lot of weight.

在德纳利山上，平均每人负重是100到125磅。

The average, or the the typical weight on Denali is a 100 to a 125 pounds per person.

他们背着背包，还拖着雪橇，所以爬升3000英尺确实很费劲。

They are moving with between a pack and a sled, so moving up 3,000 feet does take a big load.

很多队伍要花六到八个小时才能爬完这3000英尺的上坡。

A lot of teams will take six to eight hours to to move that 3,000 feet of uphill.

第四天，大家会搬到三号营地。

Day fours are moved to Camp 3.

到了第五天，我们可能会继续往上走，越过三号营地，或者休息一天。

Now day five, we might move above Camp 3, or we might take a rest day.

如果我们从三号营地或者一万一千英尺营地继续往上走，而且那天不是休息日的话，我们可能会在13000或14000英尺的地方放一个补给点。

If we move above Camp 3 or the 11,000 foot camp, then we might be placing a cache at either 13 or 14,000 feet if we're not taking a rest day.

如果前一天我们确实休息了，那第六天我们就会把补给放在更高的地方，比如13000或14000英尺，或者也可能在11000英尺处休息一天，这要看队伍的状态。

If we did take a rest day the day before, on day six, we will be placing a cash higher at 13 or 14,000 feet, or this can be a rest day at 11,000 feet, depending on how the team is feeling.

第七天，如果我们推进得比较快，而且想在11000英尺至少待三个晚上，那我会建议可以考虑搬到14000英尺，因为那时候我们已经在10000到11000英尺的地方待了至少三天，哦不对，是三个晚上。

Day seven, if we're moving aggressively, and we wanted at least three nights at 11,000 feet, would be the first day I would recommend potentially considering moving to 14,000 feet, because now we would have spent at least three days at 10 to 11,000 feet, or excuse me, three nights.

那天又会是一次大移动，所以搬到14000英尺之后，你很可能需要轻松的一天或者完全休息一天。

That day is gonna be another big move, and so you might, you will likely want a easy or a full rest day after the move to 14,000 feet.

所以如果你把补给放在13000英尺，那就可以往下走1000英尺，把补给拿回来，然后再爬上去。

So if you placed a cache at 13, then you could drop down that 1,000 feet, recover it, and come back up.

如果你把补给放在14000英尺，那就在14000休息一天，或者稍微往上走一点，如果大家觉得闷得慌，需要活动活动的话。

If you placed your cache at 14,000 feet, just take a rest day in 14, or maybe go up just a little bit higher, just if folks are feeling stir crazy and they need to move.

还有一件事，在山上你总是要权衡，是继续往上推进呢，还是怎么样。

One other thing, it's like a balance when you're on these mountains of, do I want to continue to keep pushing up?

我建议你总是要有点进展，但那个进展可以是整理前一天的东西。

And I'd recommend like always make some sort of progress, but that progress could be repacking things from the day before.

所以休息日结束后，你就可以准备出发了。

So you're ready to go after the rest day is complete.

另一方面，也要注意，不要总觉得必须得做点什么体力活动，因为那样可能反而会影响适应高原。

On the other side, the other caution is like, don't always feel like you have to be physically doing something because that can lead to not acclimating adequately.

到了第八天，我们已经在14000英尺的高度休息了一天。

From there, we're at day eight now where we had a rest day at 14,000 feet.

第九天和第十天，我们就能在14000英尺处至少睡上三晚了。

And so day nine and ten would get, get us to having three nights minimum sleeping at 14,000 feet.

之后，你可以选择上到17000英尺过夜，或者如果你体力够好，也可以尝试冲顶。

From there, you can either move up to sleep at 17,000 feet or you can attempt to summit if you have the fitness.

关于具体的体能要求，有一整期节目我和Scott Johnston专门聊过，比如从14000英尺营地到登顶，需要什么样的体能才算达标。

And if you want, like for the specific fitness there, like there's a whole episode where I discuss this with Scott Johnston of like, what does adequate fitness look like for being able to do a summit on Denali specifically from 14,000 foot camp to the summit.

他的建议是，如果你在自己所在海拔的地方，能以每小时1000米或3200英尺的速度上坡，那你可能就有能力一天之内从14000英尺往返登顶。

And his recommendation was if you can move at 1,000 meters or 3,200 feet per hour of uphill at your home elevation, then you might have the fitness to do 14,000 feet to the summit and back in a day.

不过有一整期节目专门讨论了这方面的体能和准备，叫《与Scott Johnston一起准备登顶德纳利》。

But there's a whole episode where we kinda just stuck discuss the fitness and the prep for Denali from that perspective, called Preparing for Denali with Scott Johnston.