Old City Hall Station (Classic)

十一月中旬的曼哈顿，晚上五点半就已经又冷又黑了。

It's a mid November night in Manhattan, and it's cold and dark by 05:30.

我下班后在迈克的办公楼外等他，俩人一起走着去地铁站。

I meet my fiance, Mike, outside of his office after work, and we walk to the subway together.

我们的下行6号线列车，就在几个街区外。

Our train, the Downtown six, is just a few blocks away.

下一班开往布鲁克林大桥-市政府站的下行本地6号线列车即将到站。

The next Downtown Local six train to Brooklyn Bridge City Hall will

快到节假日了，整个氛围都透着一股坐立不安。

It's close to the holidays, and there's this palpable antsiness.

人们在站台上踱来踱去，急着下班回家。

People are pacing the platforms, ready to be done with work and get home.

迈克和我也有点紧张，但不是因为想赶紧回家。

Mike and I are a little on edge too, but not because we're trying to get home.

说白了，恰恰相反。

In fact, quite the opposite.

我都不记得还有几站了。

I don't even know how many stops it is.

哦，我觉得这应该是……

Oh, I think this is the

最后一站吗？

last one?

应该是吧。

I think so.

对车上其他人来说，这可能是终点站，但我们的旅程这才刚开始。

It might be the last stop for everybody else on this train, but our journey is just getting started.

我是乔安娜·梅耶，欢迎收听《地图集奇观》，一起探索这个世界上古怪、惊人又奇妙的地方。

I'm Johanna Mayer, and this is Atlas Obscura, a celebration of the world's strange, incredible, and wondrous places.

今天，我们要坐这趟车越过终点站，去一个直到今天，纽约人仍不惜大费周章也要去的地方——尽管它已经被关闭封存快一百年了。

Today, we are staying on this train past the last stop and heading to a place that's still, to this day, New Yorkers go to extravagant lengths to visit, even though it's been shut down and sealed away for nearly a hundred years.

旧市政厅车站。

Old City Hall Station.

稍后继续。

More after this.

我在想，会不会还有其他人也留下来了。

I was wondering if there are gonna be other people who stayed on.

没有，一个都没有。

Nope.

就咱们俩。

Just us.

咱们靠窗站吧。

Let's get by a window.

有人说，老市政厅车站是纽约最不成秘密的秘密。

People say that Old City Hall Station is New York's worst kept secret.

这话一点不假。

That's probably true.

其实，我十多年前刚来纽约的时候，这事儿就是我做的第一件游客打卡事。

In fact, when I moved to New York more than a decade ago, this was one of the first touristy things I did.

老市政厅站早就停用了，将近一百年没开过车，早就被封起来，不对外公开了。

Old City Hall is a decommissioned subway station and hasn't operated in nearly a hundred years, and it's sealed up away from the public.

可纽约人还是老爱聊它，时不时就有人提起。

Still, New Yorkers love to talk about it, and it comes up over and over again.

说实话，我都想不起来当初是怎么听说这个站的了。

Personally, I don't remember how I first heard about it.

就好像空气里到处都在传，自然而然就听到了。

It was just kind of in the ether.

但当我开始做这期节目时，我才意识到，除了知道它存在，我根本啥都不了解。

But as I got to work on this episode, I realized that I knew basically nothing about the station except the fact that it exists.

所以我得找个能深入了解的地方——纽约交通博物馆。

So I had to do a place where I could learn more, the New York Transit Museum.

博物馆其实就设在另一个废弃的地铁站里，地下那种，特别受学校欢迎，经常组织学生来参观。

The museum is actually inside a different decommissioned subway station underground, and it is a super popular spot for school field trips.

我去的那天，到处都是孩子。

The day I visited, there were kids galore.

我跟波莉·德萨尔丹聊了聊。

I talked with Polly Desjardins.

她是博物馆的内容主管。

She's the content manager for the museum.

我每天都在历史里生活。

I was living in history every day.

我打交道的都是能坐进去的物件。

I work with objects that you can sit inside of.

这地方你可以亲手摸一摸。

It's a place where you can touch it.

天哪。

Wow.

我们现在坐的这节车厢，是1907年的老火车。

We're sitting inside an old train car from nineteen o seven.

车顶有电风扇，还有老式的皮带供你抓握，座位是藤编的，软乎乎的。

It's got ceiling fans, old leather straps to hang on to, and cushiony seats covered in rattan.

整个感觉特别有复古味儿，还有点浪漫。

The whole thing feels old timey and kind of romantic.

真的能亲身走进你所讲的那段历史里。

Can really physically be in the history that you're talking about.

所以我才发现，这儿就是我了解纽约所有事情的地方。

So I just really found that this was a place where I learned everything I know about New York.

地铁早就成了纽约生活的一部分，有时候我都忘了，其实很久以前——说真的，很久很久以前——这儿根本没地铁。

The subway is so much a part of New York City that sometimes I forget that there was a time and kind of a long time actually when it didn't exist.

地铁是1904年才开通的，比荷兰人在这儿定居晚了差不多三百年。

The subway didn't open until nineteen o four, about three hundred years after the Dutch settled in the area.

波莉说，地铁没出现之前，人们主要靠马车出行，尤其是那些不想让礼服拖地的富家小姐。

Polly says that before the subway, there were other ways of getting around, mainly stagecoaches, which catered to rich ladies who didn't want their ball gowns to drag on the ground.

后来有过有轨电车，还曾有个怪人想搞个气动火车。

There were streetcars for a while, and one eccentric dude had an idea for an air powered train.

他甚至真造了一小段试验轨道。

He even built a small sample track.

这事儿咱们下集再说。

That is a story for another episode.

到了世纪之交，纽约地铁的建设正式开工了。

And right at the turn of the century, work began on the New York City subway.

1900年3月就破土动工了。

They broke ground in March 1900.

当时可热闹了，排场不小。

And, you know, it was a big fanfare.

在市政厅的台阶上举行了仪式，蒂芙尼公司——就是那个做高档珠宝的公司——专门打造了一把银质的首锹。

There was a ceremony on the steps of City Hall, and the Tiffany company, the same company that makes fancy jewelry, made an inaugural silver shovel.

他们把这把锹交给了市长。

They gave it to the mayor.

市长也就象征性地铲了第一锹土。

And he sort of lifted the inaugural shovel.

其实一大早就有人在那儿吭哧吭哧挖土了，结果这第一锹的风光却让市长给占了。

You know, some poor contractor had been there in the morning, you know, hacking the ground, but he gets to lift the inaugural shovel.

四年半时间，九英里轨道，28个车站，耗资近五千万美元——换算成今天的价值，差不多九亿七千万美元——纽约地铁终于正式开通了。

Four and a half years, nine miles of track, 28 stations, and nearly $50,000,000 later, which is actually more like $970,000,000 in today's money, the New York City Subway opened for business.

所以这四年半里，人们眼睁睁看着这工程一点一点建起来，肯定也打乱了他们的日常生活。

So you have four and a half years of people, like, literally seeing this thing happen, probably disrupting their lives in some way.

对吧？

Right?

大家心里早就盼着这一天了。

So they've got all this anticipation.

他们把市政厅都挂满了彩旗。

And they covered City Hall in bunting.

我的意思是，开通那天，成千上万的人涌出来，那天是十月四号。

I mean, are thousands and thousands of people who come out on opening day, which is October '4.

市政厅前举行了盛大的仪式。

There's a big ceremony at City Hall.

所有人都到场了。

You know, they're all there.

这儿可是纽约交通大人物们必到的地方。

This is the place to be for the New York Transportation bigwigs.

科尼利厄斯·范德比尔特也来了。

Cornelius Vanderbilt's in attendance.

市长当然也在场。

Of course, the mayor is there too.

他们一个个上台讲话。

They give speeches.

各种仪式、排场一个不少。

They go through all the fanfare.

然后，重头戏来了。

And then the big moment.

接着他们离开市政厅，

Then they leave City Hall.

一路走下去，走进市政厅车站，登上了第一列地铁。

They go down, and they and they walk into City Hall Station, and they board the first train.

蒂芙尼公司为开通仪式又打造了一件仪式用的银器。

The Tiffany company made another ceremonial silver object for the opening.

这次是一台列车的主控装置。

This time, it was a master controller for the trains.

他们对市长说：‘您来操作这列火车吧。’

And they say to the mayor, you can operate the train.

您可以把火车从市政厅开出去，你知道的，他以前从来没开过火车。

You can take the train out of City Hall and, you know, he's never operated a train before.

所有官员都站在他身后，紧挨着。

All the officials are standing, like, right behind him.

他们啊，牙都咬紧了。

They're, you know, gritting their teeth.

总之，他吓坏了。

Anyway Scared.

是啊。

Yeah.

吓坏了。

Terrified.

但他实在太喜欢了，根本舍不得松手。

Anyway, he loves this so much that he won't let go.

他玩得特别开心，结果开得飞快。

But he really is enjoying himself and he makes it go too fast.

大伙儿都惊呆了，天哪！

And, you know, they're all like, oh my god.

最后，市长在离起点一百多条街的地方才松开控制杆。

Finally, the mayor lets go of the controls, more than a 100 blocks from where we started.

等那些大人物坐完他们的首航体验，地铁就正式对公众开放了，大家早就盼着这一天了。

And after all the bigwigs finish their inaugural afternoon ride, the subway opens to the public, and people are ready for it.

成千上万的人挤得水泄不通。

Thousands of people have showed up packed, jam packed.

对吧？

Right?

所以那些首趟开往南北方向的列车，当晚就有大约十五万人乘坐。

So those first trains going uptown and downtown, we know that about a 150,000 people rode the train that night.

天哪。

Wow.

是啊。

Yeah.

没错。

Know.

这简直太疯狂了。

Which is which is crazy.

不过，纽约人嘛，永远都是纽约人的做派。

But of course, New Yorkers are gonna be New Yorkers.

他们早就见怪不怪了。

They're so jaded.

事实上，就在头一晚，有人写到一个家伙，一上车就往座位上一瘫，摘了帽子搁旁边，往里一滑，闭上眼，就等着到自己那站。

In fact, they write about this guy on literally on the first night who sort of plops himself down, takes his hat off, puts his hat next to him, and sort slides into his seat, closes his eyes, and then waits until he's at his home station.

第一晚？

On the first night?

就是第一晚啊。

On the first night.

所以那时候的感觉就是，嗯，这玩意儿挺对我胃口的。

So it was kind of like, you know, this attitude of, yeah, this is this is for me.

能送我回家就行。

It's gonna get me home.

我的意思是，这事儿转眼就变得稀松平常了。

I mean, it became so sort of pedestrian so quickly.

太有纽约范儿了。

Classic.

但也不是人人都那么淡定。

But not everyone was too cool for school.

有些人还挺怀疑的，甚至有点吓着了。

Some people were skeptical and kind of freaked out.

我懂。

And I get it.

二十世纪初，坐金属管子一样的地铁在地下飞驰，确实挺吓人的。

Rocketing underground in a metal tube at the turn of the century could be pretty unnerving.

所以城市为了缓解大家的顾虑，把地铁站建得特别漂亮，甚至可以说美轮美奂。

So the way the city eased these concerns was by making subway stations nice, beautiful even.

其中最惊艳的，就是线路最底端的市政厅站。

And the most beautiful of all was the station at the very bottom of the line, City Hall.

想象一下，二十世纪初的纽约人，急匆匆赶着上班。

Say you're a New Yorker in the early nineteen hundreds and you're hustling to work.

你会从一对精致的玻璃和铁艺小亭子走进老市政厅站。

You'd enter old City Hall Station through a pair of ornate glass and iron kiosks.

顺着楼梯往下走，花五分钱买票，然后一踏进主站厅，简直像走进了大教堂。

You'd walk down the stairs and pay a nickel at the ticket booth, and then you'd step into the main section of the station, but it would feel more like you're entering a cathedral.

对我来说，市政厅站最棒的就是那些天花板。

The best thing for me about City Hall Station really were the ceilings.

天花板是那种漂亮的陶土拱顶，你能在地铁站里看到这样的拱顶，简直不可思议。

The ceilings are these beautiful timbrel vaults, and so you have this these vaulted ceilings in a subway station.

当时设计这个车站的建筑师，其实正在城里设计一座著名的教堂——圣约翰神大教堂。

The architects of the station were actually working on a famous cathedral in the city at the same time, Saint John the Divine.

所以他们把教堂那种氛围带到了市中心。

So they brought those church sensibilities downtown.

那里有空气，有光线。

There was air and light.

还有三扇超美的天窗，让自然光洒进来，整个站台都被温柔地照亮。

And then three amazing beautiful skylights, you know, letting the daylight in, which would pool on the platform.

这简直太浪漫了。

I mean, romantic.

真的，特别浪漫。

I mean, really romantic.

接着，轨道上方还挂着一排十二盏吊灯。

And then a series of 12 chandeliers hanging above the tracks.

吊灯？

Chandeliers?

就是吊灯。

Chandeliers.

我的意思是，认真的。

I mean, seriously.

还有拱形门洞，精致的瓷砖装饰。

There were arched doorways, detailed tile work.

市政厅站太美了，当市政府在车站里贴广告时，人们都炸了。

City hall was so lovely that there was a big uproar when the city put advertisements in the station.

大家觉得这破坏了整个氛围。

People thought it ruined the vibe.

甚至为此打起了官司。

There was even a lawsuit over it.

这是人们第一次看到地铁还能是这个样子。

This was the first vision for people of what the subway could be.

这本该有那么多潜力啊。

It it it it it so much promise.

说白了，我们觉得你们值得拥有更好的。

It's kind of like, we think you guys are worth it.

纽约客们，你们是这地铁系统的使用者，我们特意为你们打造了这么美的车站。

You New Yorkers that are gonna use this system, we made it beautiful for you.

我们希望它真正为你们服务。

We want it to work for you.

尽管美得惊人，老市政厅站还是跟不上时代了。

Beautiful as it was, Old City Hall Station couldn't keep up with the times.

到1923年，它是全城唯一还没装旋转闸机的车站。

By 1923, it was the only stop in the city that hadn't moved to turnstiles.

列车设计改了，车门和站台之间留出的缝隙大得吓人。

Changes to train car design meant there were big gaps between subway car doors and the station's platform.

而且，这个站的客流量也在下滑。

Plus, ridership at this station was down.

只有慢车经过市政厅站，但紧挨着的就是个更大的站，有快车停靠。

Only local trains ran through City Hall, but there was a bigger station right next door that had express trains.

所以到了1934年，这个站就停用了。

So in 1934, the station shut down.

按纽约人一贯的作风，波莉说，大多数人根本没当回事。

In typical New Yorker fashion, Polly says most people didn't really care.

从此，市政厅站就这么闲置了几十年，天窗和吊灯空对空，没人欣赏。

And there, City Hall sat for decades, its skylights and chandeliers showing off for no one.

但到了2004年，为纪念地铁开通一百周年，纽约交通博物馆破例打开了站门，重新开放了这里。

But in 2004, for the hundredth anniversary of the opening of the subway, the New York Transit Museum cracked the seal and opened the station back up.

他们开始组织官方导览，让游客悄悄走进这段被遗忘已久的纽约历史。

They began leading official tours, letting visitors sneak into a part of New York City history that had been long buried.

波莉有时候就负责带这些团。

Polly sometimes leads these tours.

有一次，她遇到一位九十多岁的老太太。

And on one, she met a woman who was in her nineties.

她小时候，她爸爸经常带她从市政厅站坐地铁。

As a kid, her dad, you know, would often take her on the train from City Hall.

对她来说，这就像重回旧地，我光是想想都觉得鸡皮疙瘩起来了。

So it was a it was a coming back experience for her, and it was just it was I mean, I'm getting goosebumps just thinking about it.

真的特别动人。

It was lovely.

这对她来说意义重大，可对我来说，简直不敢相信。

It was a big deal for her, but for me, it was like, oh my goodness.

你真的从这儿坐过地铁？

You you actually rode a train from here.

你那时候买票、乘车，全套流程都经历过。

You know, you bought a ticket and you did the whole thing.

天哪，太厉害了。

Like, that's amazing.

老市政厅站只运营了大约三十年。

Old City Hall Station was only open for about thirty years.

从整个历史来看，这不过是地铁漫长岁月里短短一瞬。

In the grand scheme of things, a short moment in the long history of the subway.

但听人们说起它，还以为它运营了一百年呢。

But the way people talk about it, you'd think it was around for a century.

它的影响力，远远超过了它实际运营的时间。

Its legacy is way bigger than the time it was in operation.

这让我想到一件事——你别急着跳过啊——《周六夜现场》，还有切维·蔡斯，他可能是这个节目历史上最经典的演员，一提到这节目，大家第一个想到的就是他。

The whole thing kinda makes me think about, and stay with me here, Saturday Night Live, and how Chevy Chase is possibly the most iconic SNL cast member of all time, the number one person you associate with the show.

可他只在节目里待了一季。

But he was only on for one season.

老市政厅站，就是纽约的切维·蔡斯。

Old City Hall Station is New York City's Chevy Chase.

我跟你说说这些参观活动的事。

Let me tell you something about these tours.

这些参观票可抢手了。

They are a hot commodity.

如果你觉得去年夏天抢泰勒·斯威夫特的票已经够难了，那试试抢老城市大厅的票吧。

If you thought it was tough to get tickets to see Taylor Swift last summer, try getting a ticket to see Old City Hall.

是啊。

Okay.

可能没那么夸张，但确实有大批交通迷，票一年才卖三次，几分钟就抢光了。

Maybe not that intense, but there are a lot of transportation nerds out there, and tickets go on sale only three times a year.

几分钟就抢光了。

They sell out in minutes.

还有，你得是纽约交通博物馆的会员才能买票——这招营销简直太绝了。

And the other thing is you're only allowed to buy a ticket if you're a member of the New York Transit Museum, which can I just say is a pretty great marketing ploy?

他们可一点儿都不开玩笑。

And they're serious about it.

我曾想说服博物馆，让我跟着他们的游览团拍点素材，作为这个故事的一部分。

I tried to convince the museum to let me tag along on one of their tours as part of the story.

结果立马被拒了。

I got shot down immediately.

不过呢，还有一种办法能看见老市政厅站。

But there is one other way that you can see Old City Hall.

现在6号线已经不再停靠老市政厅站了，但列车还是会从它里面穿过。

Today, the six train no longer stops at Old City Hall Station, but it does go through it.

在终点站之后，列车会绕个圈掉头。

After the official last stop, the train does a turnaround loop.

如果你凑近窗户仔细看，还能瞥见一眼这个站台。

And if you look closely, you can catch a glimpse of the station out the windows.

这次我拉上了我土生土长的纽约人未婚夫，巧的是，他压根儿没见过这个站。

This time, I've dragged my native New Yorker fiance with me, And it just so happens that he has never seen the station.

你真不记得以前听说过这地方？

So you don't remember learning about it?

不太记得了。

Not really.

就感觉是听别人提过那么几次。

I feel like it's just people mentioning it.

我的意思是，你知道吧，我从来没去过自由女神像。

Mean, I it's like, you know, I've never been to the Statue Of Liberty.

所以……

So

我们现在坐在列车上，过了终点站，正转圈呢。

we're sitting here on the train after the last stop as it's making its turnaround.

车厢里就我们两个人，还不知道车站会从哪边出现。

We're the only two people, and we don't know which side the station will appear on.

于是我们俩分别靠在列车两侧的窗边等着。

So we post up next to the windows on either side of the train.

哪一边？

Which way?

哪一边？

Which way?

我觉得应该在这边。

I feel like it'll be this side.

是的

Yeah.

真让人期待啊

The anticipation.

哎呀

Oh.

哎呀

Oh.

哎呀

Oh,

就是这儿了

that's it.

就是这儿了

That's it.

对

Yeah.

你快看那个。

Look at that.

在这儿呢。

There it is.

哇哦。

Wow.

如果刚才那声‘哇’听起来没那么激动，那他可能就是个地道的纽约客。

If that wow sounded less than enthusiastic, well, maybe he's just a real New Yorker.

我们根本没看到天窗。

We couldn't see the skylights.

只匆匆瞥了一眼瓷砖的花纹。

We only got a quick glimpse of the tile work.

但就在那儿，纽约最不保密的秘密。

But there it was, New York's worst kept secret.

说真的，我觉得这样看到它反而更好。

And in a way, I kinda prefer seeing it like this.

就在那一瞬间，你能瞥见昔日辉煌的痕迹，剩下的就靠你自己去想象了。

For just an instant, you can see flickers of the grandeur of a bygone era, and you get to imagine the rest.

市长坐着地铁飞驰在隧道里，手里握着蒂芙尼控制台；开幕当晚人群挤破头想上车；还有成千上万早就看腻了的纽约客，往那儿一坐，闭上眼，压根儿不在乎。

The mayor hurtling through the tunnels with his Tiffany master controller, the people crushing to board the trains on opening night, and the thousands of jaded New Yorkers who sat down, closed their eyes, and couldn't care less.

你可以加入纽约交通博物馆，在他们官网上订票，去参观老市政厅站。

You can become a member of the New York Transit Museum and book tickets to see Old City Hall Station on their website.

我们节目描述里有链接。

There's a link in our episode description.

或者，像我一样，坐六号线偷偷瞄上一眼。

Or you can do like I did and get a peek at it from the sixth train.

要是你选这条路，就坐六号线往市区方向，坐过终点站别下车。

If you go that route, just take the sixth train downtown and stay on after the last stop.

顺便说一句，如果你面朝车头，老市政厅站会在你的左边。

And FYI, if you're facing the front of the train, Old City Hall will appear on the left side.

没错，交通博物馆也知道这个漏洞，但他们真建议你买张票，好好看一回完整的。

And, yes, the Transit Museum does know about this loophole, but they really recommend you buy a ticket and see the full thing.

我们的播客由《神秘地球》和 Stitcher 工作室联合制作。

Our podcast is a coproduction of Atlas Obscura and Stitcher Studios.

制作团队包括：

The production team includes

迪伦·特雷斯。

Dylan Theress.

道格·巴尔丁格。

Doug Baldinger.

克里斯·纳查。

Chris Nacha.

卡米尔·斯坦利。

Camille Stanley.

马诺洛·莫拉莱斯。

Manolo Morales.

波德莱尔。

Baudelaire.

加比·格拉德尼。

Gabby Gladney.

我们的技术总监是

Our technical director is

凯西·霍尔福德。

Casey Holford.

本集的混音由

This episode was mixed by

露丝·弗莱明负责。

Luce Fleming.

我们的主题曲和片尾音乐由萨姆·廷德尔创作。

Our theme and end credit music is by Sam Tindle.

我是乔安娜·梅耶，愿你一生充满惊奇。

I'm Johanna Mayer, wishing you all the wonder in the world.

下次见。

I'll see you next time.

确实会好起来的。

It definitely does turn around.

对吧？

Right?

不会。

No.

我觉得我们现在就困在这儿了。

I think we're just we're we're in here now.

这儿有信号吗？

Do we have service down here?

没有。

No.

有

Do

你觉得那个紧急情况是怎么回事？

you think the emergency thing is?

没有。

No.

还在继续呢。

It's going.

好的。

Okay.

吓死我了。

Phew.

行吧。

Alright.

咱们看看。

Let's see.

糟了。

Uh-oh.