Enormocast 302：2025年最后仪式（原名Taps）——别用异样眼光看传统老爸版

乔大概有个储物柜。

Joe's Joe's probably got a locker.

是的。

Yeah.

对。

Yeah.

或者至少两个，可能两个反向的

Or at least two maybe two two reverse

相反的。

opposites.

给他运动包用的相反方向的扣环。

Opposed beaters for his jock bag.

它们是真正的快挂吗？

And are they real carabiners?

我的意思是，我只关心是不是真快挂，而不是假的。

I mean, really, all I care about is that it's a real carabiner and not the fake one.

假的有什么不好？

What what's wrong with the fake one?

因为根本派不上任何用场。

Because it's not useful in any fucking application at all.

你的意思是，它不该放在攀岩装备旁边？

It shouldn't be out near your climbing gear is what you're saying.

对。

Yes.

我就是这个意思。

That's what I'm saying.

赶紧把这玩意儿拿远点。

Get that shit away.

如果你的粉袋用的是二号强度的带子，那就该升级成静力绳了。

I mean, I think if you're factor two in your chalk belt, then you need to upgrade to, like, some static webbing.

比如用七毫米的绳子，打个双渔人结。

You know, maybe, like, a seven mil cord with a double fisherman's knot.

就是这样

That's

我推荐这样。

what I recommend.

以前很多人会戴一条备用绳带，以防万一。

That was the old there's plenty of of people out there that run runner strength belt in case they need it.

对。

Yeah.

但他们

And they're

出问题了。

failing.

我确实这么做过。

I I I do.

你身上挂满了快挂

You've got carabiners all over

你家里用一个就行。

your house.

你车上没必要带一个。

You don't need one on your truck.

比如你搞运动攀岩，带一根珍珠绳就够了。

Like, if you're a sport climbing, you got a piece of pearl.

六毫米的绳子。

Six millimeter cord.

用什么绳结，这事儿有人提过吗？

What kind of knot to use has ever come on?

就用个单结就行。

Use a like a overhand.

我其实不太用。

I I don't

别用像 granny 结那种吧？

Like a granny or anything?

是的。

Yeah.

我没什么特别的做法。

I don't do anything special.

就是，你知道的，那种方结。

Like, you know, the whatever the knot square knot.

方结。

Square knot.

对。

Yeah.

没错。

Yeah.

就用方结绑那玩意儿。

Square knot that shit.

我也用方结绑那玩意儿。

I'd square knot that shit.

别再用粉袋的快挂锁扣攀岩了，省得丢脸。

Save yourself the embarrassment of climbing with a chalk bag carabiner.

那我宁可拿绳子，自己丢脸算了。

And embarrass myself instead by using a cord.

所以你是说乔可以改用绳子，对吧？

So you're saying Joe could switch it up to a cord Yes.

只要他打个合适的结，别让肚子给挣开了就行。

As long as he uses an appropriate knot that his belly can't open.

粉袋上的快挂锁扣早该淘汰了，都多少集了。

I mean, the carabiner on the chalk bag should have been last rited episodes ago.

早就该换了。

That's it has been.

对。

Yes.

没错。

Yeah.

谢谢。

Thank you.

这个

The

你又在谈最后的仪式了。

other You're again in the swing with last rites.

我觉得用快挂和绳子相比还有一个问题，我刚想到，有时候会觉得，那些不太懂行的人身上挂的装备特别多，全都垂到膝盖那儿了。

The other problem that I find with the carabiner versus the cord, I was just thinking about this, is that sometimes I have this perception that people who don't know what they're doing have a lot of gear on them, and it's all hanging down to their knees.

是的。

Yes.

没错。

That is it.

这种看法很准确。

That is an accurate perception.

这确实是我的一种印象

That's just a perception I've

我自己也观察到这一点。

observed in myself.

基于这种观察，我想开始帮助他们。

And and in that perception, I wanna start saving.

我想拯救这些人。

I wanna rescue those people.

我希望他们能摆脱那种在运动攀岩时，22英尺的绳圈还挂在安全带上、垂到膝盖的装备方式。

I want them to feel like they can graduate from having the 22 foot cordelet connected to their harness while they're sport climbing hanging down to their knee.

我希望那个人能真正成长起来。

Like, I want that person to graduate.

所以我觉得，用绳圈比用全强度的快挂——比如乔那种带粉袋的笨重锁具——更显专业。

And so this is why I'm thinking that it's more, you know, sophisticated to use the the cord as opposed to having full strength carabiner, maybe locker in Joe's case, with the chalk bag then awkwardly hanging.

你知道它挂在哪里。

I mean, you know where it hangs.

对。

Yeah.

就在你肛门正上方。

Right at your butthole.

对。

Yeah.

我只是这么说而已。

I'm just saying.

所以我们得赶紧跳过这个话题了，现在就得走。

So would you guys, we gotta move on from this one, but, already.

但你觉得这是个危险信号吗？

But, would you say it is a red flag for you?

是的。

Yeah.

非常明显。

A giant.

上面挂着一个锁扣，锁扣上还挂着一支记号笔。

A carabiner on it, holding a carabiner on a chuck pen.

我只是想让大家别被这种误解误导。

It just it's a perception that I'm trying to help people avoid.

你比我们所有人都温和多了。

You're so much nicer than the rest of us.

行吧。

Alright.

不管怎样，乔，我们还是会跟你一起去攀岩的。

Anyway, Joe, we'll still go climb with you buddy.

这不算大问题。

It's not a deal breaker.

对。

Yeah.

就是稍微有点儿在意吧。

Just a little bit of a Yeah.

总之。

Anyhow.

你不能怪我，乔。

You can't blame me, Joe.

不，他可以。

Yes, he can.

我开玩笑的。

I'm kidding.

房间里就他有这资格。

He's the only one in the room that can.

哎哟。

Ouch.

好了，乔。

Alright, Joe.

你得去里弗和贝莱，安德鲁。

You'll need to come to to Rifle and Belay, Andrew.

我们在这事上实在撑不住了。

We're we're we're tapping out on that.

好的。

Okay.

来一个，再一个。

Here's one, another one.

克里斯，嘿。

Chris, hey.

我是来自德克萨斯州奥斯汀的芬奇，最近听了你和安德鲁的电影之夜。

This is Finch from Austin, Texas, and I was recently listening to one of you and Andrew's movie nights.

我知道你们老拿德州人，特别是奥斯汀人开涮。

I know you threw a bunch of shit at people from Texas and specifically people from Austin.

谢谢啊，你这家伙。

So appreciate that, you fucker.

而且你们以前在‘Taps’里可能也这么干过。

But and you may have done this in past Taps.

现在这些精彩片段真是特别棒。

Gems are super, super nice now.

咱们得停止在健身房脱衣服了。

We've got to stop having dudes take their shirts off at the gym.

真的得停了。

Just have to stop.

在健身房就把衣服穿好。

Keep your shirt on at the gym.

健身房里温度才22度，还特别干净。

It's 72 degrees and super super sterile.

在健身房就把衣服穿好。

Keep your shirt on at the gym.

完全同意。

Strong agree.

对。

Yes.

没错。

Yeah.

对。

Yeah.

我同意。

I agree.

我觉得我们已经。

I think we've yeah.

好吧。

Alright.

我不确定我们还需不需要继续谈这个。

I I I don't know if we need to keep going on that.

我也同意。

I just agree as well.

但人们真的会停止这样做吗？

But are people gonna, you know, stop doing that?

我觉得这种情况越来越少了。

I feel like it's I feel like it's less and less.

而且说实话，我觉得很多健身房虽然没明文规定，但氛围很明显，就是别这么做。

And I I honestly feel like there's plenty of gyms that if it's not a rule, there's a clear atmosphere of, like, don't do it.

一旦有个人这么干，其他人立马就能感觉到，特别不舒服。

And when the one person does everybody, you can, like, are definitely vibing them out.

我原以为我们那儿也是这样。

I thought it was like that at our

在那家健身房关门之前，确实如此。

gym before it closed.

那你们那边呢？

What about

户外攀岩的时候，不把上衣脱掉，你觉得怎么样？

not taking your shirt off at the like, outside at the boulders?

我觉得户外嘛，随性一点没关系。

I think outside is free rain.

但这样就真的不让人反感了吗？

But is it any less gross?

是的。

Yeah.

因为你不是在那种地方，这根本不是

Because you're not it's not

像那种特别冒犯、或者明晃晃展示男性乳头的行为吗？

like Or like offensive or just in your face with man nipples?

对。

Yeah.

我觉得一方面，你面对的观众也不是被迫待着的。

I think for one thing, you're not as captive an audience.

你知道的。

You know?

你不是被困在一个封闭空间里。

You're not, like, there inside of an enclosed space.

而且

And also

是的。

Yeah.

而且还有一个问题，就是当一个刚来健身房的人看到一堆没穿衣服的男性，会觉得……

And there's also, like, a question of excessive like, when somebody new to the gym comes in and they see a bunch of shirtless dudes, it's like

对。

Yep.

你也可以用同样的理由去讨论裸露的岩石群。

That you can make this all the same arguments for, like, a boulder field.

但人们不会去同样的岩石上。

Except that they wouldn't be

走到同样的攀岩点。

walking to the same boulders.

我不确定。

I don't know.

我就直说了，每次我进健身房，看到有人赤裸上身，我就会想到腋下异味之类的事儿……

I'm just gonna put it out there that when I go into a gym and I see a a man with a shirt off, it kinda makes me think of armpit cheese and, like

我觉得也是因为空间太封闭了。

I think it's the enclosed space too.

你跟他们共享同一片空气，闻着他们身上的味道，反正就是说不上来。

You're inhabiting the air is circulating with them in their whatever, and it's just like I don't know.

在里面感觉就是不一样。

It just feels different inside.

我也说不清楚。

And I don't know.

我是说，我从不去那些有人赤膊的攀岩区，所以我不太懂。

I mean, I don't go to boulder areas where people have their, so I don't know.

比如运动攀岩，你就不会觉得跟别人靠得那么近。

I mean, sport climbing, it doesn't feel like you're so enclosed with somebody.

要是觉得热，其实可以穿背心之类的。

There's, like, tank tops and stuff you can wear if you're hot.

是啊。

Yeah.

我

I

刚在说呢。

was saying right now.

我其实是上面那个 guy。

I actually top guy.

我穿背心。

I wear tank tops.

对。

Yeah.

没错。

Yeah.

是的。

Yeah.

总之

Anyway

外面的环境更吸引人。

It's more attractive outside.

说实话，我第一个不会想到的就是腋下异味。

Like, the first thought I don't have is armpit cheese.

是的。

Yeah.

好吧。

Alright.

我觉得我同意，这事儿真得彻底解决掉。

I think I'm I'm with I'm with that that keeps needing to be killed.

对。

Yes.

这事儿还是得彻底了结。

It needs it still needs to be killed.

彻底除掉。

Murdered.

因为那样的话，你知道，我

Because then, you know, I

我的意思是，后背长痘就是特别显眼，到处都是。

mean, it's just, like, back acne is, like, right in your face and stuff.

就是

Just

我觉得还有一点是，

Well, I think also too,

比如当你

like, when

后背出汗之后，往垫子上一拍。

the you you get all sweaty in your back and then you, like, backslap on a mat.

是的。

Yeah.

然后别人就坐在上面了。

And then somebody's, like, sitting on.

是的。

Yeah.

因为那样的话，那些人站起来，地上肯定会留下一片湿印子。

Because then, like, those guys will get up and it's literally, like, there's gonna be, like, a wet spot there.

你们在聊出汗的事，我这时候也在出汗。

You guys are talking about sweat, and I'm sweating right now.

好吧。

Alright.

还有个关于装备显示的僵尸问题，不过我们先跳过这个吧。

There was also another zombie about the the gear displays, but we'll move it on on from that.

我们是不是把那个删了？

Could we we took that one down?

我们是讨论击杀数还是抱怨？

Should we go to kills or laments?

就谈击杀数吧。

Kill it.

干掉它。

Kill it.

说吧。

Tell yeah.

嘿，克里斯。

Yo, Chris.

我是亚伦·伦诺克斯，我的问题是关于‘站根’这种做法，

It's Aaron Lennox, and my beef is stancing a root,

这个赛季在山谷里我注意到了这种现象。

phenomenon that I became aware of this season in the valley.

对。

Yeah.

所谓‘站根’，就是你摔下来后，不是直接挂在锚点上，而是先找个位置站稳，再从那里继续向上爬，或者从那个位置回到锚点。

To stance a root, claiming that you've done it because where and when you fell, you lower back down to a stance and then continue to climb from the anchor or to the anchor from, the stance.

接下来呢？

What's next?

今天跳舞了。

Day's dancing.

等着看吧。

Stand by for that.

这事儿跟我们的骑行有关。

It's on our ride.

太完美了。

That was perfect.

对。

Yes.

今天跳舞就快开始了。

Day's dancing is just around the corner.

如果我们不在这里划清界限，就必须为攀岩的未来挺身而出。

If we if we if we do not draw the line here, we must make a stand for the good of climbing.

我之所以放那段，就是这个原因。

That that's why I played that one.

我喜欢这个。

I love that.

太棒了。

That's awesome.

跳舞。

Dancing.

所以，Day，他的姿势是这样的。

So Day it's stance stances.

解释一下什么是姿势。

Explain what a stance is.

就是你在攀爬时摔下来，沿着绳子降下来，降到一个不用手抓也能站稳的地方。

So it's when you fall on a climb, on a on a lead, a pitch, and you lower back down to where you can stand without holding on with your hands.

所以叫无手姿势，名字就是这么来的。

So a no hand stance, hence the name.

然后从那儿继续往上爬，心里就想，行，没问题。

And then you finish from there, and you're like, yeah, it's fine.

我的意思是，我其实完全可以像坐在地上一样，就这么熬过这一段。

I would I mean, I could have sat through all this just like the ground.

所以你从那儿完成这一段，就叫自由攀登。

So that you finish the pitch from there and you call it free.

你是直接爬上去取你的装备吗？

Do you yo yo up to your gear?

听上去你就像在上下晃动。

It sounds like you yo yo.

因为如果没有绳索支撑，那些保护点也没法用。

Because why if there's no aircraft the stands

往下撤的时候，你没法把装备都收回来。

you can't clean your gear on the way down.

对。

Yeah.

所以至少，就算你把绳子收了，装备还是留在原位。

So at the very least, even if you pulled your rope, your gear would be in situ.

但我

But I

有些人用站姿的方式是，比如他们先爬到某个站姿点，不管之前是哪一次。

think some people use stance too is, like, they climb to the stance at one point, like, whether it was just the time before or some other time.

然后从那个站姿点单独再爬一段到锚点。

And then they do from that stance to the anchor on a separate burn.

真的吗？

Really?

我觉得也有人是这么用的。

I I think that some people use it that way as well.

这可不是说你只在一根红色绳段上系着，

It's not just like you're on, like, tied in on one red point pitch

对。

Right.

然后摔下来，再从站姿点往上爬到顶。

And you fall and then you go from the stance to the top.

所以你过一周再回来，直接

So you come back a week later and just,

就爬到那个休息点？

like, yard up to that stance?

我不确定。

I don't know.

我的意思是，我不清楚这样是不是合适。

I mean, I'm not sure if that's Alright.

这个问题真正关键的地方，是在攀岩中那些特别模糊的场景里，我们之前聊过很多关于大岩壁自由攀登的。

Well, where this really comes into play is on the ever murky world, which we've covered a lot on the run out of big wall free climbing.

这种休息点的做法，在大岩壁攀岩里其实也有它的历史渊源。

That that this stance thing actually has a historical, you know, place in in in that climbing as well.

我觉得这确实是自由攀登的一部分。

It's it was part of the free, I believe.

你那边怎么看？

What what's your opinion over there?

破裤子。

Crusty pants.

我只是觉得……

It's just I

这完全取决于你回到地面后有多诚实。

think it just depends as to how honest you are when you get back down to the ground.

如果你觉得用站姿通过没问题，心里能过得去，那你自己承担就好。

If you call it good because you stanced and you're okay with that and you could sleep at night, that's on you.

但如果你偷偷瞒着，我想我们大多数人，都会默认：如果你说你自由攀登了《萨拉特》或者任何一条知名路线，那就是从保护站到顶绳锚点全程无辅助完成的。

But I think if you kinda hide that, most peep most people on all of us here, I think, would assume that if you said you freed the salathe or you freed any known route, that you did every pitch from the belay to the anchor.

这正是我们对自由攀登的定义。

And that's how, like, we've come to define it.

所以，如果你下来后说：‘我站姿通过了最难的那一段’，那我们自然可以对你做出评判。

So, yeah, if you come down and you say, well, I did stance the crux pitch, then, you know, then we could judge you.

没错。

But Right.

你懂的。

You know?

对。

Yeah.

你得诚实才行。

You gotta just be honest.

我的意思是，这一切

I mean, all this

但归根结底，这其实是个诚实的问题。

all this think it's a matter of honesty, though.

我觉得关键在于，你能不能说自己完成了萨拉特路线，但得加个备注，说你用了站姿休息。

Like, I think the question is, like, whether you get to say you did the salafe and then the asterisk is you use stances on the pitches.

我觉得这要看情况，因为如果我们讨论的是

Well, I think it depends, like because if we are talking

关于萨拉特路线，答案就是不行。

about the salafe answer, it's just no.

对吧？

Right?

如果你没按原路线走，那就不算完成了。

Like, you didn't do the route if you're

这倒是实话。

Well, that's honest.

一个诚实的人会直接说不。

That's the honest person would say no.

是的。

Yeah.

但你之前说的是，Salafate 刚出现的时候是用站姿完成的吗？

But I think so you were talking about the Salafate being a stanced out route when it was first done?

对。

Yeah.

有人认为第19段是用站姿完成的。

Well, there's some some thought that the Pitch 19 was done with a stance.

没错。

Right.

多恩墙是那种站姿路线。

The Donwall's a stand out

路线。

route.

多恩墙也是一条站姿路线。

The Donwall is also a stanced route.

没错。

Right.

所以如果你用同样的方式完成，或者有FA群体认可，那我觉得这依然算一次合法的登顶。

So if you do it in the same style or if there's the FA party, then, yeah, I think you could still call it a legit ascent.

明白了。

Okay.

因为他们已经某种程度上定义了这次登顶。

Because they've come to define the ascent in some ways.

如果他们说，我用站姿登上了黎明墙，这算数，那我们就认了。

Like, if if they say that, yeah, I stance my way up the Dawn Wall and that's that's legit, we're taking it.

对吧？

Right?

关键就在这儿。

And that's the thing.

事情变得特别复杂。

It gets it gets really tricky.

是的。

Yeah.

我们讨论黎明墙的时候，我就在想，既然他们重新打了很多钉，为啥不干脆加个保护点呢？

Because, you know, my question when we were talking about the Dawn Wall is and what you know, since they were rebolting it, why didn't they just put a belay there?

没错。

Right.

但他们当时大概是不想多打钉，或者那段本来就是个短攀段之类的。

But then they were trying, I guess, not to put more bolts in at the same time, or it, like, was a, you know, a shorty pitch then or whatever.

所以，没错。

So but yeah.

我的意思是，大岩壁的难点就在于后勤问题，很多时候你突然发现，

I mean but the logistics of it, that's the problem with big walls is that oftentimes it's like a logistical thing because all of a

掉到下方的保护点比掉到无手点处要麻烦得多。

sudden be very inconvenient to fall lower to the belay rather than lower to the no hands.

对。

Right.

所以这大概是为了加快进度、提高效率才这么做的。

So it probably came about as, like, a way to speed things up and make it efficient.

而且当时也确实是这样想的。

And then it was also kinda like, yeah.

但我还是在自由攀登这些动作。

Well, I'm still freeing the moves.

你懂的。

You know?

但如果有人在运动攀岩场这么干，大家肯定会质疑他。

Like but I mean, if somebody did this at a sport crag, you'd probably call them out.

但大岩壁自由攀登的话，好像什么都能接受似的。

But I mean, big wall free climbing, it seems like kinda anything goes anyway.

我不明白，为什么我们必须认定大岩壁自由攀登就一定是这样。

Why does I don't I don't understand why we have to, like, say that that's just always gonna be the case with big wall free climbing.

因为确实如此。

Well, because it Yeah.

所以整个这一集讲的都是这个事。

So that's what this whole episode

是关于这个的。

is about.

我们其实是在说，

So we're saying

在大岩壁自由攀登中，站姿并不算规范。

so we're saying stancing, not legit for big wall free climbing.

我觉得有充分的理由认为，这应该成为他们的规则。

I mean, I think there's a good argument to say that that's that should be their rule.

我同意。

So I agree.

那我们还能用哪些其他策略呢？

So what other tactics can we taps?

最后的仪式。

Last rights.

行，给个最后的仪式。

Give last rights.

对。

Yeah.

给……行个最后的仪式。

Give last rights to

你的，不过我得补充一下，我们之所以认可站姿，是因为这是大岩壁攀爬者会用的手段，而不是

your I guess just to back up, though, we're legitimizing stancing because it's a tactic that would be used by a big wall climber as opposed to

这是一种说法，表示你在一个岩段上完全自由地完成了所有动作。

It's a tactic to say you've done all the moves freely on one pitch.

就是这样。

That's it.

这并不是说你已经红点通过了这个岩段，但现在大家都是这么用的。

Not a tactic to say that you've red pointed the pitch, but that's how people are using it.

对。

Yeah.

我觉得这应该叫‘Taps’。

And I think that should be Taps.

Last Rited。

Last Rited.

谢谢。

Thank you.

Last Rited。

Last Rited.

是的。

Yeah.

我觉得我同意你的看法。

I I I think I agree with you.

是的。

Yeah.

所以这不像争论那么有趣，但是

So which isn't which isn't as funny as arguing, but

我其实或者

I actually Or

我们该找点别的东西

we should find something

我对这个不太了解

I don't know much

但我也觉得应该叫‘最后告别’。

about it, but I am agreeing that it should be last.

是的。

Yeah.

那是亚伦。

That was Aaron.

亚伦也同意这个做法。

Aaron is on board with that.

我的意思是，随着我们继续推进，我觉得我们在风格上应该做得更好。

I mean, it it and again, like, you know, as we move forward, I think we should be getting style better.

对。

Yeah.

风格很重要。

Style matters.

以前的时候，你玩悠悠球，基本就是以地面为基准。

And so, you know, there was a time when you could yo yoing was basically the ground was your stance.

你可以先上去挂一个点，然后下来，再爬上去到那个点，接着继续往下。

You could go up and get a piece in and then lower down and then climb up to that piece and then keep going lower down.

你知道，以前是那样，但现在我们已经不再那样做了，因为红点风格才是更好的方式。

You know, that was but we've we've done away with that because the the red point style is better style.

就这么简单。

So that's all.

我们只是想推动风格向前发展，各位。

We're just trying to move style forward, you guys.

是的。

Yeah.

我觉得跳舞这种做法，某种程度上是为了更快地完成任务。

And I think dancing is sort of, like, coming about as, a way to, like, get things done quicker.

对。

Mhmm.

而且，确实没那么好。

And, yeah, it's definitely not not as good a style.

那现在的跳舞方式具体是指什么？

So what would day's dancing be?

我觉得这跟我之前说的差不多，就是你先往下坠，然后就不继续完成整个投掷动作，第二天再回来。

I think that would be what I kind of talked about earlier, is very you, like, fall and then you don't do the rest of the pitch, and then you come back the next day.

你站定位置。

You come to your stance.

然后从那里出手。

And you fire it from there.

你当天的站姿。

You day stance.

第一次尝试。

First try

当天的第一次。

of day.

从站姿开始第一次尝试，是的。

First try from the stance Yeah.

当天的第一次。

Of the day.

第一次尝试。

First try.

从当天的最佳站位开始。

From the stance of the day.

我的意思是，这比直接自由先锋挑战难多了。

I mean, that sounds harder than just free red point

在岩壁上全程完成。

in the pitch.

你得把整段都拿下。

You got it all

一路下来，

the way

然后再爬二十段回到你的站位点。

back down and then jug 20 pitches back up to your stance point.

就为了达到当天的最佳站位？

Just to get the day stance?

当天的站位。

The day stance.

如果你用这种方式完成当天的站位，就算数。

If you get the day stance that way, you get credit.

是的。

Yeah.

对。

Yeah.

你就是这样做的。

And you do this that way.

但如果你直接躺到你那该死的传送点上睡觉，

But if you just go to take a nap on your fucking portal,

就不算。

doesn't count.

要算当天站位，你必须回到地面。

For daystancing, you have to go back to the ground.

没错。

Right.

对。

Yes.

这才是最纯粹的做法。

It's the purest way.

好的。

Okay.

行。

Alright.

我们都把这些弄清楚了。

We get all that sorted out.

我们会附上一个大致的流程，方便大家跟进。

There's gonna be, like, a outline that goes with this one to make sure people can keep

我们做个流程图。

We'll make a we'll make a flowchart.

流程图。

Flowchart.

对。

Yeah.

好的。

Alright.

你把路线发了吗？

Did you send the route?

发了。

Yes.

没发。

No.

发了。

Yes.

没发。

No.

你从这个姿势挂住它。

Hang on it from your stance.

对。

Yeah.

是同一天吗？

Was it the same day?

对。

Yeah.

是第二天吗？

Was it the next day?

你把地面降低了？

Did you lower the ground?

好。

Alright.

开始了。

Here we go.

再来一个。

Another one.

你好。

Hi.

我是安迪，听了很久的节目，第一次打电话进来。

This is Andy, long time listener, first time caller.

我攀岩已经有一阵子了，但觉得这次挺有意思的。

I've been climbing for a while now, but I thought it'd be fun.

我有个女朋友叫伊齐，我带她尝试了各种攀岩方式，觉得她有些想法想分享。

I have this girlfriend of mine, Izzy, that I've introduced into all the different styles of climbing and thought she had some beef to share.

伊齐，你觉得运动攀岩怎么样？

Izzy, what do you think of sport climbing?

我觉得岩壁那儿总有一些爱评判人的女人，挺烦人的。

I just think there's a lot of judgmental bitches around the crag and they can be pretty annoying.

她们怎么爱评判人？

How are they judgy?

他们就是用眼神瞪你。

They just they give looks.

他们把这事儿看得太重了。

They take it too seriously.

他们根本不是来玩的。

They're not trying to have fun.

那攀岩呢？

What about bouldering?

在我看来，攀岩这事儿本身就挺蠢的。

Well, bouldering in general is just stupid in my opinion.

搞攀岩的人也都不怎么样。

And people that do it are also kinda trash.

你说谁不怎么样？

What about trash?

他们都是什么？

They're all what?

垃圾。

Trash.

我听了之后挺理解的，后来我就想，也许他们给你那种眼神，真有他们的理由，伊齐。

So I listened to this and I was empathetic and then I was like, maybe there's a reason they're giving you those looks, Izzy.

我是说，那些眼神到底是从哪个方向来的？

Like, which way is the look coming?

我知道，安迪，你该娶了那个姑娘。

I know, Andy, you should marry that girl.

她是个好姑娘。

She's a keeper.

好吧。

Alright.

那先说说，我不清楚里面到底是什么情况。

So what about first I I don't know what's in there.

我的意思是，我们什么时候才能摆脱那种刻薄的态度呢？

I mean, are we ever gonna get rid of of, like, crusty attitude

运动攀岩？

sport climbing?

我们什么时候才能摆脱那些讨厌鬼？

Are we gonna ever get rid of the bitches?

应该吗？不。

Should we No.

我

I

我觉得是的。

think yeah.

这明显是男人的错。

It's obviously men's fault.

没错。

Yes.

我们看看吧。

Let's see.

好的。

Okay.

行吧。

Alright.

下一个话题。

Next topic.

下一个话题。

Next topic.

玛丽说：我们搞定了。

Mary's like We nailed it.

不对。

No.

这可不是男人的错。

It is not men's fault.

这么想简单点，玛丽。

It's easier that way, Mary.

别再纠结了。

Just let it go.

女人在岩壁上对伊齐摆脸色，这怪不到男人头上。

It's men's fault that women give bitchy looks to Izzy at the crag.

明白吗？

Okay?

就到这儿吧。

That's it.

讨论结束。

End of discussion.

对。

Yes.

我同意安德鲁的看法。

I agree with Andrew.

这也太严厉了。

That's so harsh.

天啊。

God.

我不知道。

I don't know.

我只是觉得，那些在上面攀爬难度很高的路线的人，根本没在注意你。

I just was like I I kinda think because, like, guys or the girls who are up on this hard climbing aren't paying attention to you.

我们以前就讨论过这个了。

I mean, we've been down this road before.

是的。

Yeah.

他们太自我中心了。

They're too self absorbed.

不过，

However,

他是不是说到了点子上？

is is he onto something?

这个问题或许我们的那位固定女性代表能回答。

Is and this maybe could be answered by our token female.

你好。

Hello.

是我。

It is I.

其实是位老资格的固定女性代表了。

Long standing token female, actually.

我还在这儿呢。

Still here.

就像那种凶巴巴的表情。

Like the bitchy look thing.

是的。

Yes.

明白了。

Okay.

有些女人就是一副刻薄脸，没办法。

Well, I mean, there's just some women that have rusting bitch face.

明白了。

Okay.

这事儿咱们也算有了。

So we've got that going.

对。

Right.

你可不属于这一类吧？

You're not one of them, are you?

我尽量不那样。

I try not to be.

不过随着年纪增长，我发现自己也开始...

But, you know, as I get older, I noticed

你的脸看起来就挺刻薄的。

Your face is bitchy looking.

就是我的脸看起来有点凶。

That my face is bitchy looking.

确实如此。

It's true.

我老公肯定也这么觉得。

My husband will fully agree with this.

不会。

No.

我觉得攀岩的人分两种，我自己两种都一起爬，一种是特别认真的，把攀岩当正事的人。

I just think that there are climbers, and I'll I'll say I climb with both the kinds of climbers, like, the really serious, the people that take it really seriously.

还有一种就像你老婆史黛芙那样，她就是想开开心心地过一天，不把这事太当真。

And then the people like your wife, Steph, who she's, like, wants to have an intensely fun day that day, but she doesn't take it too seriously.

我觉得对伊齐来说，她最该做的就是别在意别人怎么看她、怎么评价她。

And I just think that for the person in Izzy's shoes that she needs to just stop caring about what anybody else around her is doing or how they're looking at her.

因为说到底，那些给她白眼的人，我敢打赌，根本不在乎她。

Because in the end, those people that are giving her the bitchy looks, I can guarantee don't give a fuck about her.

对。

Right.

所以我觉得她只需要不再在意别人投来的目光，按照自己的方式去享受攀岩的乐趣就好，不管那对她来说意味着什么。

So I would just say she needs to stop paying attention to the looks that she's getting from anybody and just have fun on her own terms, whatever that means.

而且既然你觉得攀岩很无聊，周围的人都挺差的，那干脆就别再去抱石了。

And don't go bouldering anymore because if you think it's stupid and everybody's trash.

没错。

Yeah.

再说一下抱石。

And then with I'll just say this with bouldering.

那感觉简直太棒了。

It's fucking rad.

我觉得这是最好的训练方式，毕竟事实就是如此。

And I, like, think it's the best way to train because let's face it.

我现在除了训练，啥也不干。

All I do anymore is train.

我其实不在户外爬。

I don't actually climb outside.

我就只是训练。

I just train.

因为孩子长大了，你的生活就跟着他们的节奏转了。

Because as your children get older, then your life becomes whatever they're doing.

你明白我的意思。

Just so you know.

如果要我猜，她喜欢的那种攀岩应该是多段攀或者传统攀，经常就她和安迪两个人，独自找一条路线。

If I had to guess, the kind of climbing she likes to do is, like, multi pitch or, like, traddy stuff where she's just off, you know, her her and Andy, just like the two of them often, you know, on their own route.

没人去打扰他们。

No one's vibing them out.

但如果你走到一个抱石区或者运动攀岩区，人一多，你通常根本不是在爬，就是坐在那儿看别人，纯粹看人来人往。

But if you walk up to a boulder scene or, like, a sports crag scene and there's a bunch of people, Most of the time you're not climbing, you're just sitting around looking at everyone else and you're just people watching, you know?

这本身也算攀岩的一种。

Which is climbing.

一天中95%的时间都是这样。

95% of what a climbing day is.

剩下的5%才是你真正爬岩、全神贯注的时候。

And then there's 5% where you're actually climbing and focused on that.

所以我觉得她可能有点把自己的想法投射到别人身上了，我不知道。

And so I think that she's probably there's probably a little projection of, like, her I don't know.

也许她表情看起来有点凶，其他女的就都想：算了吧。

Maybe she's got maybe she's got a bitchy looking face and and all the other women are like, fuck that.

是的。

Yeah.

她们八成也在说同样的话。

They're probably saying the same thing.

天哪。

Oh my god.

那个女孩刚才瞪了我一眼，真是够呛。

That girl just gave me the worst look.

天哪。

Oh my god.

那个女生刚瞥了我一眼，她那张脸天生就一副凶相。

That girl just gave me side eye, and she has resting bitch face.

真讨厌她。

Fuck that bitch.

我觉得就是这样。

That's what my guess is.

大家都陷在互相瞪眼的循环里，怎么也摆脱不了。

Everybody's just in this circle of dirty looks that they can't get out of.

她们其实都该做朋友的。

They all just should be friends.

她们都只想交朋友，可就是做不到。

They all just wanna be friends, but they can't.

不过话说回来，当一个女生给你甩脸色时

Hey, when you get side eye though from a girl