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嘿，我是你的朋友梅尔，欢迎收听梅尔·罗宾斯播客。
Hey, it's your friend Mel, and welcome to the Mel Robbins Podcast.
前几天，我刷社交媒体时，真的不是在跟你开玩笑。
So the other day, I was scrolling through social media, and I'm not even kidding you.
短短三分钟内，我就看到了17种不同的护肤产品在向我推销：红光疗法面罩、抗衰老精华液、还有那种号称能逆转衰老、清透肌肤、让你焕发光彩的眼下冰滚轮面膜。
Within three minutes, I saw 17 different skincare products being marketed to me, red light therapy mask, anti aging serum, some under eye or ice roller thingy mid drop mask that promise to reverse aging, clear your skin, make you glow.
我的意思是，有一段视频，我甚至都不想告诉你，它让我真的开始考虑是不是该做面部拉皮了。
I mean, one video, I don't even wanna admit this to you, even made me feel like maybe it's time for a facelift.
我感到特别不知所措，不知道该怎么应对皮肤松弛的问题，该买什么产品，等等。我知道你也一样，因为我收到了来自世界各地成千上万条关于皮肤和护肤的问题。
I feel so overwhelmed about what to do, the way my skin is sagging, what products to buy, whatnot, and I know you do too because I have been receiving thousands and thousands of questions from you from around the world on the topic of skin and skincare.
比如，你该怎么处理成年痤疮？
Questions like, what do you do about adult acne?
怎么消除下颌松弛？
How do you get rid of sagging jowls?
哪些护肤品该扔掉？
What skincare do you need to throw out?
你该怎么正确洗脸？
How do you wash your face correctly?
护肤品中哪些成分真的有效？
What ingredients in skincare actually work?
你该如何护理衰老的皮肤？
How do you take care of aging skin?
今天，请医生。
Today, Doctor.
世界最受信赖的认证皮肤科医生之一，谢琳·伊德里斯博士，将带来科学依据、准确答案、三个具体步骤，以及关于什么有效、什么无效、什么对皮肤有益、什么有害、什么值得花钱、什么不值得的坦诚真相。
Sherine Idris, one of the most trusted board certified dermatologists in the world, is here with the science, the answers, the three specific steps, and the no BS truth on what works and what doesn't, what helps your skin and what hurts it, what's worth your money and what isn't.
所以，无论你正在应对痤疮、皮肤老化，还是只是感到不知所措，不知道该如何处理堆满浴室柜子的那些产品；或者你正处在人生某个阶段，皮肤完全失控，照镜子时觉得自己不再像自己，感觉不再像自己，甚至感到害怕，觉得无能为力——医生，谢琳·伊德里斯会告诉你，你总能做点什么。
So whether you're dealing with acne, aging skin, or you're just overwhelmed and you don't know what to do with the products that are clogging your bathroom drawers, or if you're in a moment in your life where your skin is just out of control, and when you look in the mirror, you don't look like yourself, you don't feel like yourself, and you're scared, there's nothing you can do, Doctor.
谢琳·伊德里斯将向你保证，你总能找到可以采取的行动。
Sherine Idris is gonna assure you that there is always something you can do.
她说，你的皮肤并不是一个需要解决的问题。
She says your skin is not a problem to solve.
这需要建立一种关系。
It's a relationship to build.
因为最终，如果你遵循她今天教你的所有内容，你就会开始对自己的皮肤感到舒适和自信。
Because ultimately, if you follow everything that she's gonna teach to you today, you will begin to feel comfortable and confident in your own skin.
嘿，我是你的朋友梅尔，欢迎来到梅尔·罗宾斯播客。
Hey, it's your friend Mel, and welcome to the Mel Robbins Podcast.
我非常高兴你在这里。
I am so excited that you're here.
能与你共度时光、陪伴你，我始终感到无比荣幸。
It is always an honor to spend time together and to be with you.
如果你是新听众，或者因为有人分享了这一集而来到这里，我想花一点时间亲自欢迎你加入梅尔·罗宾斯播客大家庭。
And if you're a new listener or you're here because somebody shared this episode with you, I just wanna take a moment and personally welcome you to the Mel Robbins Podcast family.
我迫不及待想让你认识今天的嘉宾，医生。
I cannot wait for you to meet today's guest, Doctor.
谢里恩·伊德里斯。
Sherine Idris.
她将告诉你，如果你想拥有更健康的皮肤，应该怎么做、吃什么、避免什么。
She's here to tell you exactly what to do, what to eat, and what to avoid if you want healthier skin.
医生。
Doctor.
Idris博士是一位世界知名的认证皮肤科医生，拥有十七年的临床经验，致力于治疗患者、研究皮肤，并以循证建议拨开迷雾。
Idris is a world renowned board certified dermatologist with seventeen years of clinical experience treating patients, studying skin, and cutting through the noise with evidence based advice.
她毕业于乔治·华盛顿大学，获得生物学学士学位和医学博士学位，曾在哈佛大学完成研究奖学金，并在塔夫茨医疗中心完成皮肤科培训。
She earned her degree in biology and her medical degree from George Washington University, completed a research fellowship at Harvard University, and did her dermatology training at Tufts Medical Center.
她曾担任纽约大学临床助理教授，目前是纽约西奈山医学院的临床讲师。
She's been a clinical assistant professor at NYU and is currently a clinical instructor at Mount Sinai in New York City.
除了拥有自己的临床诊所和护肤品牌外，她在线上拥有数百万追随者，他们信赖她来破解护肤迷思、揭露错误信息、告诉你不要购买劣质产品，从而帮你省钱，并将复杂的内容变得简单易行。
In addition to having her own clinical practice and her own skincare line, she also has millions of followers online who trust her for breaking down skincare myths, calling out the misinformation, saving you money by telling you not to buy junky products, and making the complicated stuff simple and doable.
那么，不多说了，请大家热烈欢迎杰出的Shereen Idris医生来到《Mel Robbins播客》。
So without further ado, please help me welcome the incredible doctor Shereen Idris to the Mel Robbins Podcast.
Shereen Idris医生，欢迎来到《Mel Robbins播客》。
Doctor Shereen Idris, welcome to the Mel Robbins Podcast.
我简直不敢相信我竟然在这里，非常感谢您邀请我。
I cannot believe I'm here, but thank you so much for having me.
很高兴你来了。
Well, I'm really glad you're here.
在我们开始之前，我想说两件事。
And there's two things I wanna say before we jump in.
第一，当你在听或在YouTube上观看时，我想告诉你，你选对了，我已经能看出来，因为你面前有四十页的笔记。
Number one, you know, as you're listening or watching on YouTube, I just wanna tell you, you have picked a winner, and I can already tell, because you have 40 pages of notes in front of you.
我知道我们今天将要听到的将是世界级的内容。
I know that we are in for something that is gonna be world class.
谢谢你以如此认真的态度参与进来，为我，也为今天花时间与我们在一起的人带来影响。
So thank you for really showing up in a way for me and for the person who's spending time with us today to make an impact.
第二件事是，当我发帖告诉大家你要来的时候，我请粉丝们提交他们的问题。
Second thing is when I posted on social all about the fact that you were coming, just ask people for their questions.
我不知道我们以前是否在某个话题上收到过这么多问题，所以我们今天会深入探讨。
I don't know that we've ever gotten more questions on a topic, and so we are gonna go deep.
我太兴奋了。
I'm so excited.
我想从哪里开始呢，伊德里斯医生？如果我认真对待您即将教给我们的所有内容并付诸实践，我的生活会发生什么变化？
Where I wanna start, doctor Idris, is what is going to change about my life if I take everything to heart that you are about to teach us and I apply it?
当你认真对待我们今天要讨论的所有内容时，最大的改变不仅仅是让你的皮肤获得更多的知识或些许自信，而是它将对你整体的自信心产生情感上的影响。
The biggest thing that's going to change when you take to heart everything we're gonna talk about here today is not just the knowledge in your skin or gaining a little bit more confidence in taking care of your skin, but the emotional impact it's gonna have on your overall confidence moving forward.
因为衰老，只有20%是由基因决定的。
Because aging, 20% of it is genetics.
如果衰老完全由基因决定，那么生活习惯就无关紧要了。
If it was all purely genetics, habits wouldn't matter.
因此，我们如何衰老以及如何在世界上展现自己，80%都与生活习惯有关。
And so 80% of how we age and show up in the world has to do with habits.
所以，如果我们能建立一套系统，让我们每天都能善待自己，同时对自己的知识充满信心，我们就能从内而外地转变，真正绽放成属于我们的蝴蝶。
And so if we can create the system so we can show up for ourselves every single day, but also have the confidence in our knowledge too, we can transform from a inside out perspective and really blossom into the butterflies that we are.
你说只有20%是由基因决定的。
You said that only 20% is determined by genetics.
我从来没听人这么说过。
I've never heard anybody say that.
是的。
Yeah.
所以80%与长期的日晒暴露有关。
So 80% has to do with cumulative sun exposure.
我们过着摇滚明星般的生活吗？
Are we living a rock star lifestyle?
我们无节制地饮酒吗？
Are we consuming alcohol to no end?
我们有没有关注生活方式和饮食的整体方面？
Are we not focusing on the overall aspects of our lifestyle and diet?
我们真的在洗脸吗？
Are we actually washing our faces?
我们有在使用这些产品吗？
Are we using the things?
我认为，当所有这些因素综合起来时，这就是一种体现。
And that, I think, is a reflection of everything else when all of it comes together.
你的护肤方式正是你如何看待自己、如何整体照顾自己的反映。
Your skincare is that reflection of how you view yourself and how you take care of yourself overall.
因此，每天稍微注重一点、做出一点改变，长期来看会带来更大的变化。
So to be able to put a little bit of emphasis, a little change every single day will amount to bigger changes in the long run.
我认为最显著的一点，真正影响的是你对自己的感受。
And I think the most dramatic one is truly how you feel about yourself.
这就是我选择进入皮肤科的原因。
And that's why I went into dermatology.
我从来不喜欢说服别人他们有问题。
I I never liked convincing people that they had a problem.
因为他们能亲眼看到自己的问题，所以已经更有动力去帮助自己。
And so because they could see their problem, they're already more motivated to help themselves.
但当我们在帮助他们度过难关后，看到他们的自信重新恢复，那种感觉是无可比拟的。
But to be able to see somebody's confidence be restored after we've helped them go through whatever it is they're going through, there's no feeling that compares.
确实如此。
Well, it's true.
我们大多数人只有在对自己外貌不满，或者皮肤上出现令人担忧的问题时，才会去看皮肤科医生。
Most of us don't go to the dermatologist unless we hate something about the way we look or if there's something on our skin that's scaring us.
这么说可能听起来真的很傻。
And this is gonna sound really dumb to admit.
但当我听到你刚才说的这些时，我意识到自己一直过于关注外表和涂抹在皮肤上的东西，却根本没有考虑过你接下来要谈到的那些从内而外的生活方式因素。
But when I listen to what you're already saying, I realize that I've been so focused on the outside and what I'm putting on my skin that I haven't really considered all of the things that you're also gonna talk about that are part of your lifestyle that go from the inside out.
完全正确。
A thousand percent.
哇。
Wow.
为什么皮肤健康对整体健康如此重要？
Why is skin health so important for overall health?
你的皮肤状况揭示了身体内部正在发生什么？
And what does the state of your skin reveal about what's going on inside your body?
你的皮肤是你最大的器官，也是少数几个能将内部健康状况明显反映在体表的地方之一。
Your skin is your largest organ, and it is one of the few places, right, where internal health shows up visibly on the outer surface of your skin.
因此，这一点常常被忽视，但你的皮肤是一个可见的反馈系统，它不仅向你展示体内的生理状况，还反映你心理和情绪上的压力状态。
So that is one thing that isn't often taken into consideration, But your skin is a visible feedback system that is showing you what is going on on the inside, but also not just internally from a physiologic standpoint, but also on the inside up here, mentally, emotionally from a stress perspective.
当你照镜子时，这就是你最先注意到的视觉信号。
And that is the first visual trigger that you have when you look at yourself.
所以我认为，在讨论皮肤健康时，人们常常忽略了一个重要的方面，那就是它带来的心理和情绪影响。
So I think one thing that is often so overlooked when it comes to skin health is that mental and emotional impact that comes with it.
这一点不容忽视，皮肤不仅仅是外表问题。
And that is something that shouldn't be overlooked, and skin is not just vanity.
它不只是美容问题。
It's not just cosmetic.
它也不只是表面现象。
It's not just superficial.
它实际上是一个关乎整个人的问题。
It's really a whole person issue.
一旦你开始转变这种观念，就会意识到：天哪。
And I think once you start to shift that perspective, you realize, holy cow.
这是我的最大的器官，可我却让它承受折磨，甚至都不好好照顾它。
This is my biggest organ, and yet I put it through the ringer, and I don't even care for it.
我觉得这真的很令人着迷，因为它如此显而易见，但对这么多人来说却总是被忽视。
So it's really something that I find fascinating because it's so visible, and yet it's an afterthought for so many.
假设正在YouTube上听或看的这个人，正处于人生中各种荷尔蒙变化的阶段，你听到皮肤是体内状况的反映。
Let's say the person listening or watching here on YouTube is in a phase of their life where they're going through all kinds of hormonal changes, and you hear that your skin is a reflection of what's going on in the inside.
你希望那些突然意识到‘天啊’的人听到什么？
How do you want the person listening who feels now all of a sudden like, oh my god.
我的皮肤满是荨麻疹和痤疮，我讨厌自己的样子，或者我的皮肤松弛了，或者我几十年来一直暴晒在阳光下，现在完了。
The fact that my skin is in welts and it's acne all over the place and I hate how I look or my skin is sagging or I've I sat out for decades in the sun and now I'm screwed.
你希望那些开始感到崩溃的人，听到你对这种情况能有什么建议？当他们觉得皮肤反映出体内健康状况不佳时。
How do you want the person listening who's now starting to collapse a little to to listen to what you have to say about what's possible if you feel like your skin is reflecting, like, not good health on the inside.
你明白我的意思吗？
You know what I mean?
是的
Yeah.
所以我想让你知道。
It's so I would want you to know.
如果你觉得皮肤已经掌控了你的生活，而且失控了，你依然掌握着主动权。
If you feel like your skin is taking control of your life and it is out of control, you are still in control.
首先要做的是退后一步，让皮肤平静下来，真正专注于先安抚整体状态，然后再去解决具体问题。
And it's a matter of first taking a step back and calming your skin down and really trying to first focus on calming everything down before focusing on treating the issue.
一旦我们建立了这一步骤（今天我们会更深入地讨论），你就能重新掌控皮肤状况，并发现可能性其实是无穷无尽的。
And once we have that step in place, and we will talk about it more today, you will gain control over your skin, and you will see that the possibilities are really endless.
无论你20岁、30岁还是40岁，开始永远都不算晚。我的患者中年纪最大的已经88岁了，她依然在认真对待，这正是我欣赏她的原因。
And it's never too late to start, whether you are 20, 30, 40, I mean, I have patients my oldest patient is 88, and she still cares, and that's what I love about her.
这体现了她继续前行的意志。
That shows her will to keep going.
我认为，我们的社会往往对美容护理或虚荣心持非常负面的描述，通常都带着贬义来谈论。
And people, I think, our society, they describe very negatively cosmetic work or vanity, and it's usually talked about under a negative light.
但事实上，适度地注重外表恰恰反映了你依然在乎。
But the truth is being vain to a healthy and certain extent is just a reflection that you still care.
如果我们不在乎，我反而会更担心。
If we didn't care, I'd almost be more worried.
你知道吗，我们是不是真的已经陷入困境的最低谷了？
Like, you know, are we really at the bottom of of our struggles here?
所以你必须明白，这不仅仅是虚荣。
And so you have to understand that it's not just vanity.
这反映了你依然在乎自己，依然希望展现最好的一面。
It's a reflection of you caring that you still wanna show up.
你从什么时候开始并不重要。
It doesn't matter when you're starting.
你总可以开始掌控局面，帮助自己。
You can always start to take control and help yourself.
作为一名皮肤科医生，什么是健康层面的虚荣，什么是高风险下的不健康虚荣？
As a world around dermatologist, what is healthy vanity and what is unhealthy vanity when it comes to high risk?
这是个很好的问题，我认为它从未被真正定义过。
That is a great question, and I don't think it has ever been truly defined.
所以我会给你我的主观看法。
So I'm gonna give you my subjective perspective.
不健康的虚荣心，我们先从负面说起，就是它不断占据你的思维。
Unhealthy vanity, let's start with a negative, is when it is constantly consuming your mental thoughts.
对。
Right.
几乎像一种成瘾，无论你做什么或为自己尝试什么，你总是以消极的方式谈论它，总觉得不够好。
Almost like an addiction, where no matter what you do or no matter what you try for yourself, you're constantly speaking about it in a negative way, and it's not good enough.
因此，你追逐的是一种永无止境的虚无，因为这根本是无法实现的。
And so you are chasing a never ending nothingness because it's just not something that's achievable.
对吧？
Right?
而适度的虚荣心则是足够在意，愿意穿上熨烫整齐的衬衫，而不是皱巴巴的衬衫。
Whereas a healthy dose of vanity is like caring enough to show up and wear an iron shirt instead of a wrinkled shirt.
你知道的。
You know?
足够在意去梳头。
Caring enough to brush your hair.
足够在意以一种积极反映你真实自我的方式出现，但又不会让你被它所吞噬。
Caring enough to show up in a way where it's still a positive reflection of who you are, but it's not consuming who you are.
你的自信并不依赖于你的外表，但它就像冰淇淋上的樱桃，能让你感觉更自信。
Your confidence is not dependent on how you look, but it's a cherry on top, and it allows you to feel more confident.
所以，我认为这就是 unhealthy vanity 和 healthy vanity 之间的区别。
And so that, I think, is the difference between unhealthy vanity and healthy vanity.
当我听你谈论自我批评和永远不够好时，我一直在想， unhealthy 的表现是不断希望别人觉得你看起来怎样，而 healthy 的表现则是能照镜子，关心自己对自己的感觉。
What I kept thinking about as I was listening to the way that you were talking about self criticism and never being enough is that there's also that relationship between unhealthy being the constant pursuit of hoping other people think you look a certain way versus the ability to look in the mirror and care about how you feel about yourself.
我的意思是，醒醒吧，你一直都是你自己的样子。
I mean, news flash, you've always looked like you.
所以，如果你总是在追求别人对你外表的认可，那你追求的其实是不存在的东西。
So if you're always pursuing other people's approval of how you look, you're pursuing something that doesn't exist.
我已经行医十多年了。
And I've been in practice for over ten years.
我每周要看将近一百位病人。
I see nearly a 100 patients a week.
但大多数情况下，你试图解决的是一个更深层次的问题。
And more often than not, it's a much deeper rooted issue that you're trying to get to.
在这种极其脆弱的状态下，你必须找到一个你信任的人，他不会利用你的不安全感或脆弱，也不会趁机占便宜。
And that's where it's such a vulnerable state where you have to find someone that you know you trust who's not going to feed off these insecurities or vulnerabilities or take advantage of.
我从各个角度都见过这种情况。
And I've seen it through every angle.
整形美容不仅仅是表面功夫。
And cosmetics is not just skin deep.
它更深沉。
It's deeper.
我从未听任何人这样解释过。
I've never heard anybody explain it like that.
我可以给你举个例子，因为我现在仿佛就坐在诊室里和你在一起。我来是因为我57岁了，脸上出现了这些下垂的肉，我特别讨厌这一点。
And I can give you an example because I feel like I'm in the exam room with you right now, and I have come in because I hate at the age of 57, I've got these, like, jowls.
当你刚才说，你抱怨的从来都不是表面的问题时，你说得对。
And when you just said that it's never really about the thing you're complaining about, you're right.
对我来说，当我看到皮肤松弛时，我感到自己老了，这让我害怕——我57岁了，生命竟然已经飞逝了这么多，如果我能去掉脸上这些像肉钱包一样垂挂着的东西，我或许就能对自己感觉好一些。
For me, it's that I feel old when I see my skin sagging and it scares me to think that I'm 57 and that that much of my life has just flown by and that somehow if I get rid of these things that are hanging down like meat purses on my face, that I will feel different about myself.
但你知道，也许我们能做点什么，我们会讨论这些，但我很喜欢我们也在强调，真正重要的是你的感受和背后更深层的东西。
But, you know, maybe there's something to do that we can and we'll talk about all that, but I love that we're also saying that it's really about how you feel and the deeper things that are going on.
是的。
Yeah.
完全同意。
A thousand percent.
哇。
Wow.
我们来谈谈你的生活方式和习惯如何影响你的皮肤。
Let's talk about how your lifestyle and habits impact your skin.
哪些具体的生活习惯对皮肤有积极影响？
What are the specific lifestyle habits that positively affect your skin?
我认为最被忽视的最重要的习惯。
The most important habits that I think are underspoken of.
对吧？
Right?
第一点，我年轻时，甚至在二三十岁的时候，对这一点总是不屑一顾，但这是真的：睡眠。
Number one, and I used to roll my eyes in my twenties and even in my thirties at this one, but it's true, sleep.
你不能低估睡眠的价值，之所以有‘美容睡眠’这个说法，是有原因的，但我认为它被误解了。
You cannot underestimate the value of sleep, and the reason beauty sleep exists is for a reason, but I think it's misunderstood.
并不是因为你昨晚睡了八个小时，今天就会看起来状态很好。
It's not because you slept eight hours last night that you look good today.
睡眠就像复利。
Sleep is like compound interest.
它是一种长期投资。
It's a long term investment.
而正是这个账户，你长期持续地投入，才最终带来长远的最佳效果。
And it's that bank that you're feeding over time that gives you your best results over time in the long run.
所以，这不仅仅是关于某一夜良好的休息。
So it's not just about having one good night's rest.
而是要持续地坚持，让你的皮肤和身体得以修复、再生并重新开始。
It's about consistently showing up so that your skin and your body heal and regenerate and start over again.
第二点是运动。
Number two is movement.
我不是说你必须去成为铁人三项运动员或者健美选手，但简单的运动，比如站起来、散散步、活动一下，就能促进淋巴液流动。
And I'm not saying you have to go become triathletes and like, you know, bodybuilders, but simple movement like just getting up, going for a walk, moving around because that causes your lymphatic fluid to move.
它能让身体的各项机能保持运转。
It keeps things going.
它能促进血液流向你的皮肤。
It pumps the blood to your skin.
它能让你更好地对待自己，以更好的状态面对生活。
It allows you to be better and show up better for yourself.
这很简单，但很多人并没有进行足够的运动。
It's very simple, but not many people move as much as they should.
第三点，这一点有点敏感，那就是饮食。
Number three, and this one is a little bit sensitive, but diet.
好。
K.
健康的饮食会有助于支持你的皮肤，创造一个良好的环境。
A healthy diet is gonna be supportive and it's gonna help to create the right environment for your skin.
我们都同意这一点。
We are all in agreement.
但当人们大量吃胡萝卜，试图通过饮食获取外用视黄醇的益处时，这并不能带来与外用药物、处方霜或保湿霜相同的功效。
But when people are eating their retinol, aka eating carrots to no end to try to get the benefits of a retinol that you're applying topically, it's not going to give you that same impact as a topical medication, prescription, moisturizer, cream.
食物的作用应该是支持性的，确保你为自己创造最佳的环境，以不断进步。
Food is meant to really be supportive, to make sure that you are creating the best environment for yourself to push forward.
即使护肤产品再好，饮食糟糕也无济于事。
Skin care with the crappiest diet is not great.
你只是在贴创可贴。
You're just putting a band aid.
对吧？
Right?
没错。
Right.
两者是相辅相成的。
It's both working hand in hand.
所以我认为，生活方式是拼图中的一块，非常重要的一块，但并不是全部。
So I think you have to think of lifestyle as a piece of the puzzle, a very important piece of the puzzle, but it's not the whole puzzle.
因为当你把它当成全部时，你会以为自己能完全掌控一切，但总会有些事情发生，你得学会如何应对变化，如何寻求帮助，如何接受外界的帮助。
Because when you make it the whole puzzle, you think that you can be in fully in control, but there are gonna be some things that happen that you're gonna have to learn how do we roll with the punches, how do we ask for help, how do we have, you know, external things coming in to help us.
好的，Idris医生，好消息是您在这里为我们讲解实际有哪些选择。
Well, doctor Idris, the good news is that you're here to educate us about what the actual options are.
所以我想请您帮我们澄清一点，我们每天都被各种营销信息包围。
So one thing that I'd love to hear you help us with is that we are so marketed to.
每次我上网，都会看到各种十二步护肤流程、红光面膜、护理和神奇产品。
And every time I go online, I see some 12 step skincare routine, red light masks, treatments, miracle products.
你如何屏蔽这些噪音，弄清楚你的皮肤真正需要什么？
How do you tune out the noise to figure out what your skin truly needs?
这是个很好的问题，我认为这是个价值百万的问题。
This is a great question, and I think this is the million dollar question.
首先，没有人需要十二步的护肤流程。
First of all, nobody needs a 12 step skincare routine.
没有人。
Nobody.
没有人需要在产品上花数千美元和无数个小时。
Nobody needs to be spending thousands and countless of hours on products.
这没有效率。
It's not productive.
这不现实。
It's not realistic.
作为两个孩子的妈妈，我不仅经营着两家，准确地说是三家生意，还有一个伴侣，尤其是在孩子零到四岁、还很小的时候，根本不可能抽出时间照顾自己。
And as a mom of two, who has not one, but two, so would argue three businesses, and a partner in my life, especially between the ages of zero and four when my kids were really small, it was impossible to find time for myself.
因此，因为无法坚持规律的护肤流程而辜负自己，是第一个失败点。
And so failing yourself by not showing up through a consistent skincare routine is the first point of failure.
所以，如果你无法坚持，那这个方法就不够好。
So if it's not something that you can be consistent with, it's not good enough.
护肤流程必须简单到足以让你坚持下去，这样才能真正看到效果。
And a routine needs to be simple enough that you can be consistent with it so you can stick it through and actually see results.
对吧？
Right?
是的。
Yep.
所以我认为这一点非常重要，因为互联网和社交媒体的设计初衷就是为了推销产品。
So that I think is really important that people understand because the Internet, social media, it's optimized for selling things.
更多并不意味着更好，尤其是在护肤方面。
And more doesn't mean better, especially not when it comes to your skin.
你真的需要后退一大步。
And you really have to try to take a giant step back.
所以，我告诉我的病人，就像我现在告诉你一样，也像我告诉我自己的家人那样。
And so this is what I tell patients like I'm gonna tell you, like I tell my own family.
真正地从镜子前退后一大步，而不是从你的放大镜前退后。
Literally take a giant step back from your mirror and not your magnifying mirror.
要看森林，而不是一棵树。
And look at the forest and not the tree.
弄清楚你皮肤上最严重的问题是什么。
Understand what is the biggest issue that you see in your skin.
是色斑吗？
Is it brown spots?
是泛红吗？
Is it redness?
是缺水吗？
Is it dehydration?
是皱纹吗？
Is it wrinkles?
是某种说不清的奇怪问题吗？
Is it, I don't know, whatever, creepiness?
不管你看到了什么，最让你困扰的那一个主要问题是什么？
Whatever it is that it is that you see, what is the one biggest issue that bothers you?
我们就从这一点开始吧。
And let's start just there.
如果你感到不知所措，你会建议你诊所里的别人在日常护肤中添加哪三款产品？
If you're overwhelmed, what are the three skincare products that you would say to somebody in your practice that they should add to their routine?
如果你被太多产品搞得不知所措，就别纠结于具体的产品本身。
If you're overwhelmed by all the products, forget the specific products themselves.
有三个类别是你应该在日常护肤中尽量纳入的。
There are three categories that you kind of want to incorporate into your routine to make sure.
第一，确保你保护好你的皮肤。
Number one, that you're protecting your skin.
你正在支持你的皮肤屏障，第二点。
You're supporting your skin barrier, number two.
第三点，你正在促进长期的改善。
And number three, you're helping drive long term change.
在开始之前，我想先说明一下，我没有接受任何这些公司的赞助。
Before I start, I just wanna preface this by saying I am not sponsored by any of these companies.
这一切都不是付费推广。
None of this is paid for.
这不是广告，我尽量选择适合每个人预算的产品。
This is not an advertisement, and I try to pick products that are within everyone's budget.
很好。
Great.
而且也是你能在本地药房买到的产品。
But also products you can find at your local drugstore.
我会为每类提供两个例子，因为这样你可以自己决定想用什么产品。
And I'm gonna give you two examples for each because it's the way that, you know, make up your own mind what it is that you wanna use.
我们从一款非常温和的洁面产品开始，它旨在清洁皮肤，而不会过度剥夺皮肤的天然油脂。
We're starting with a very gentle cleanser, one that is meant to clean and cleanse your skin without overstripping your skin.
这种产品在任何药房都能买到。
And this is one that you can find at any drugstore.
它叫Vanacream。
It's called Vanacream.
它非常简单。
It's a very simple one.
没什么花哨的成分。
It's nothing fancy.
它能帮助清洁你的脸部。
It can help clean your face.
如果你皮肤非常干燥，可以选择另一种更具保湿效果的洁面产品。
If you're somebody who has very dry skin, you can get another kind of cleanser that is a little bit more hydrating.
但洁面产品的真正作用是奠定基础，清除脸上的污垢，这是你能为自己做的最微小却最温柔的举动。
But the job of a cleanser is really to just set the foundation, clean the gunk off of your face, and it is the smallest act of kindness that you can do for yourself.
当你把脸暴露在外界一天后，回到家，卸下一天的疲惫，重新开始。
After you've put your face out into the world, come home, get the day off your face, and just start afresh.
这是你的基础步骤。
It's your foundational step.
好的。
Okay.
对吧？
Right?
这是第一步。
That's number one.
你该怎么洗脸呢？
How are you supposed to wash your face?
所以我建议大部分时候晚上使用洁面产品。
So I recommend using a cleanser at night for the most part.
对吧？
Right?
这是一个普遍的规则，理想情况下早上只用清水洗脸。
This is a general rule, and ideally just using water in the morning.
当你在一天结束时卸下疲惫，涂上保湿霜并准备入睡时，真的还需要用洁面产品去除所有污垢吗？
Once you've gotten the day off at the end of the day and you've put on your moisturizer and you go to sleep in the morning, do you really need to use a cleanser to get all of the extra gunk off?
大概不需要。
Probably not.
仅用清水冲洗脸部就足够了。
And just having water run on your face is gonna be enough.
哇。
Wow.
比如，即使你的配偶或狗在你身边呼吸。
Like, even if your, like, spouse or dog is, like, breathing on you.
我的意思是，你知道的。
I mean, like, you know
我说得明白吗？
what I'm saying?
经验之谈。
Rule of thumb.
我不知道。
I don't know.
你知道吗？
Well, you know what?
是的。
Yeah.
我比你年长，当我因为更年期大汗淋漓时，我觉得自己就像刚醒来就跑完了一场马拉松。
I'm older than you, so when I'm sweating like crazy because of menopause, I feel like I've woken up and run a marathon.
所以我觉得我得彻底清洁一下。
So I'm like, I gotta clean all
把这些都清理掉。
this up.
就是这个东西。
The thing.
我有点想喝水。
I could do with water.
但即使经历更年期，对，是的。
But even going through menopause, right Yeah.
你的皮肤处于更脱水的状态。
Your skin is in a more dehydrated state.
是吗？
It is?
是的。
Yes.
因此，你正在失去保持水分的能力，这就是为什么你会感觉有点不舒服。
And so you're losing that ability to hold on to hydration and that's why you feel a little creepier.
如果你再加上过度清洁皮肤，去除皮肤表面的油脂，哦。
If you're compounding on top of that, overstripping your skin and getting rid of the oil that is on your skin Oh.
你的皮肤会感觉更加失衡，更难确保自己感觉完整舒适。
Your skin is gonna feel more out of sync, and it's going to be harder to make sure that you feel more intact.
现在有一大群人早上必须使用洁面产品，因为他们长了很多痘痘。
Now there's a lot of there's a huge subset who cannot not use a cleanser in the morning because they have a lot of acne.
他们属于油性皮肤类型等等。
They're oily prone, etcetera.
所以这并不一定适合每个人，但对绝大多数人来说已经足够了。
So this is not necessarily for everyone, but for the vast majority, it is enough.
所以我认为这是第一点。
And so I think that's the first thing.
在洗脸之前，你需要考虑的第二件事是水温，这又回到了脱水的问题上。
The second thing to take into consideration before you go into the action of washing your face is the water temperature, which leads me back to the dehydration.
好的。
Okay.
没人谈论过水温的问题。
No one talks about water temperature.
我们通常可能使用热水，因为早上想要脸上有点温暖的感觉。
And we usually probably use hot water because it's the morning and you want something warm on your face.
嗯，是的。
Well, yeah.
对。
Yes.
但要把你的脸想象成一个油腻的锅。
But think of your face like a greasy pan.
热水可以去除油脂。
Hot water gets rid of the grease.
所以如果你每天早上用热水和洁面产品过度清洁脸部。
So if you're now overstripping your face with hot water and using a cleanser Every morning.
每天早晚都这么做，你很可能是在双重打击皮肤。
Every morning and at night, you're probably double whamming the thing.
但我不想去除油脂吗？
But don't I wanna get rid of the grease?
有时候油脂也有保护作用。
Sometimes the grease is also protective.
这需要一个平衡。
Like, it's a balance.
并不是所有事情都只在晚上发生。
It's not all at night Exactly.
然后皮肤正在做它试图
Then the skin is doing what it's trying
做的事
to do
在夜间自我修复。
to repair itself overnight.
没错。
Exactly.
然后我醒来后，用热水把一切都洗掉了。
And then I wake up and wash it all away with hot water.
好的。
Okay.
温水。
Warm water.
温水。
Warm water.
好的。
Okay.
温水。
Warm water.
然后，我认为，这里就变得复杂了，就是双重清洁卸妆的部分，人们常常感到困惑。
And then this is, I think, where it gets complicated, the double cleanse makeup removal where people get confused.
所以很多人不知道，他们可以重复使用洁面产品。
So a lot of people don't realize that they can use their cleanser twice.
如果他们是浓妆者，使用了防水彩妆，或者妆容很重，当然应该先用油基洁面产品或卸妆水，再用温和的凝胶状洁面产品。
Now if they are heavy makeupers who have waterproof makeup, of course, or really heavy makeup, use an oil based cleanser first or micellar water and follow it with a gentle gel based cleanser.
这没问题。
That's not a problem.
但我认为最重要的是在水槽边放一块洗脸巾，并利用它帮助清洁脸部的各个角落和缝隙，彻底清除污垢。
But what I think is the most important part is having a washcloth for your face by your sink and utilizing that washcloth to help yourself work into the nooks and crannies of your face to get everything off.
这很有趣，因为很多人对此翻白眼，我也收到过很多评论。但如果你有七条不同颜色的洗脸巾，把它们放在镜子旁的水槽边，每天都能保证使用不同的那一条，这就像是给你的脸换上干净的内裤。
And it's funny because people roll their eyes and I had so many comments, but if you have seven little washcloths, each one a different color, right, and you keep it in your mirror by your sink, every day you're guaranteeing to use a different one, and it's a fresh pair of underwear for your face.
我们会重复使用脏内裤吗？
Are we going to reuse a dirty pair of underwear?
不会。
No.
所以，使用干净的洗脸巾是一个非常简单的解决方案，而准备七条就能让你无需刻意记住这件事。
And so having a clean washcloth is such a very simple solution, and making sure that you have seven of them takes away the brain work from it so you don't have to actively think of it.
洗脸完成后，直接把它扔进洗衣篮里。
And once you're done washing your face, you toss it in the hamper.
明白了。
Got it.
接下来，第二步是使用一款非常简单的保湿霜。
So then, number two is a very simple moisturizer.
我不是在说含有活性成分的保湿霜。
I'm not talking about moisturizer with actives.
现在，我们正在打基础，试图理解如何为皮肤保湿。
Right now, we are setting the foundation, and we're trying to understand how to moisturize our skin.
我们经常忽略的一点是，不仅你的肤质或年龄，还有你所处的环境。
And one thing we do not often talk about is not just your skin type or your age, but the environment that you're in.
我们生活的地方是不是非常干燥？
Are we living somewhere really dry?
现在是冬天吗？
Is it winter?
我们是不是在非常潮湿的地方？
Are we somewhere very humid?
但像这种非常简单的保湿霜。
But very simple moisturizers like this one.
这是经过验证的经典之选。
It's a tried and true.
所有伟大的东西都曾经是新的。
Everything great was once new.
并非所有新的东西都是伟大的。
Not everything new is great.
古铜色，宝贝。
Bronze, baby.
我们选择经得起时间考验的
We go for the tried
奶奶以前就用这个。
and Grandma used that.
这就是其中之一。
This is one.
这是一种质地较厚的面霜。
It's a nice thicker cream.
这是一种更偏向凝胶状的保湿霜。
This is more of a gel moisturizer.
这是欧莱雅的胶原蛋白凝胶。
That's a L'Oreal collagen gel.
我提到这个的原因是，确保大家明白这是一款非常好的保湿霜，但这款保湿霜上标注的‘胶原蛋白’会让人们以为它能帮助补充胶原蛋白，但实际上它只是一款保湿霜。
And the reason I bring this up is to make sure that this is a very nice hydrating moisturizer, but the word collagen on this moisturizer makes people think that it's gonna help them replenish their collagen, but but it's a hydrating moisturizer.
它并不能补充你的胶原蛋白。
It's not going to replenish your collagen.
好的。
Okay.
所以我认为你必须理解这种细微差别，清楚自己买的是什么，以及想从中获得什么。
And so I just think you have to understand that nuance and understand what you're buying and what you're trying to get out of it.
第三点，每个人都应该使用的是日常防晒霜。
And then number three, what everybody should be using, a daily sunscreen.
在任何当地的药店，你都能找到几种防晒霜。
And so there are several sunscreens that you can find at any local drugstore.
大多数人没有意识到的一点是，防晒霜可以兼作保湿霜。
One thing that most people don't realize about sunscreen, it can double up as your moisturizer.
真的吗？
It can?
是的。
Yeah.
当然。
For sure.
所以你不一定需要保湿霜。
So you don't necessarily need a moisturizer.
假设你皮肤很油，住在像佛罗里达这样非常潮湿的地方。
Let's say you're really oily and you live somewhere really humid like you're in Florida.
你需要给皮肤额外补水吗？
Do you need to add extra moisture to your skin?
完全不需要。
Absolutely not.
所以你可以直接找一款适合你肤质的防晒霜。
So you can just find yourself a sunscreen that works for your skin type.
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比如，这是一种轻薄透明的防晒霜。
Like, this is a sheer light sunscreen.
如果你在非常干燥的地方，即使已经使用了保湿霜，还是想要额外的保湿，你可以选择质地更厚、更滋润的防晒霜，它有助于修复皮肤屏障。
If you're somewhere very dry and you want extra moisture even though you've moisturized, like, you can get a moisturizing thicker, richer sunscreen that can help with barrier repair.
明白了。
Got it.
那上面会写‘保湿’吗？
And would it say moisturizer on it?
因为你有一款妮维雅的，还有一款理肤泉的。
Because you've got one from Neutrogena, one from La Roche Posay.
所以它们并不总是会标注‘保湿’。
So they don't always say moisturizer.
这款确实写了，我觉得这是个很好的例子，因为如果有人不了解，去药店时就能看到。
This one does say, and I think it's a nice example just because if somebody doesn't know and they're going to a drugstore, they can see it.
但关键其实是理解它的质地。
But it's really about understanding that texture.
如果它非常滋润、非常顺滑，用完后你觉得皮肤依然保持水润，那就是在为你的皮肤补水。
If it's really rich and really creamy and nice and you feel like your skin stays hydrated after the fact, it's hydrating your skin.
所以，这更多是关于它使用时的感觉吗？
So is it more about the feel of what it feels like?
没错。
Absolutely.
我认为，这就是防晒霜的秘诀所在。
I think and that's the secret about sunscreen.
关键是找到一款你真正喜欢它在皮肤上感觉的防晒霜。
It's about finding a sunscreen that you actually like how it feels on your skin.
我认为大多数人不坚持使用防晒霜的最大原因，就是他们不喜欢它在皮肤上的触感。
And I think the biggest reason why most people don't adhere to wearing sunscreen is because I don't like how it feels.
所以我觉得人们还没找到合适的那一款，他们试过很多款，但还没遇到对的那一个。
And so I think people haven't found the right frog, and they've kissed many frogs, but they haven't found the right one.
每天应该使用多少SPF值的防晒霜？
What SPF should you wear every day?
这是个很好的问题。
It's a great question.
SPF不仅仅是数字。
SPF is more than just a number.
SPF代表防晒系数，但它主要衡量的是你的皮肤得到多好的保护。
So SPF stands for sun protection factor, but it measures basically how well your skin is protected.
好的。
K.
所以当我们选择SPF时，需要确保防晒霜上标有‘广谱’字样。
So when we're looking for an SPF, we need to make sure that our SPF has broad spectrum on it.
广谱。
Broad spectrum.
明白。
Okay.
这样它才能同时防护UVA和UVB，因为两者都会导致皮肤癌。
So that it's protecting against both UVA and UVB because both contribute to skin cancer.
UVB更容易导致晒伤，而UVA则更多地促进胶原蛋白的分解。
One causes more burn like UVB, One contributes more to the breakdown of your collagen like UVA.
但如果你只使用普通的防晒霜，没有标注广谱防护，那就无法抵御UVA。
But if you're just getting a simple sunscreen SPF, not broad spectrum, you're not protecting against UVA.
哦。
Oh.
所以广谱防护不是可有可无的。
So broad spectrum is not a nice to have.
而是必需的。
It's a need to have.
好的。
K.
明白了吗？
Okay?
这是第一点。
That's number one.
第二点，SPF 30。
The second thing, SPF 30.
人们其实并不了解。
People don't really know.
它只是一个数字。
It's just a number.
我该猜猜看吗
Should I guess what
我觉得是？
I think it is?
是的。
Yeah.
我之前一直以为，SPF 15 只能防护到那么深的程度。
I kinda believed that, like, the 15 is only going so deep in terms of the barrier.
SPF 30 可能会更深一些，就像你说的，差不多是防护层的厚度。
The thirties maybe going a little deep in terms of the it's like, you know, kind of the thickness
是乳液还是隐形防护膜。
Of the cream or the invisible shield.
是隐形防护膜。
Of the invisible shield.
这真的和它能提供保护的分钟数有关吗？
And is it actually about the number of minutes that it's helping?
是的。
Yes.
真的吗？
It is?
是分钟数。
It's minutes.
所以并不是十五分钟或三十分钟，而是大致表示在不使用防晒霜的情况下，你能多长时间不被晒伤。
So it's not fifteen minutes or thirty minutes, but it roughly means how much longer you can stay out of the sun without burning compared to no sunscreen.
所以假设
So let's say
天啊，这涉及好多数学计算。
Oh my, this is a lot of math.
三十。
Thirty.
你只需要十分钟就会晒伤。
Takes ten minutes for you to burn.
好的。
Okay.
使用SPF 30的防晒霜，理论上你应该能待三百分钟。
With an SPF of 30, it should technically take you three hundred minutes.
这就是SPF的含义。
So that's what SPF stands for.
而大多数人甚至都不知道这一点。
And so it's something that most people don't even know.
伊德里斯医生，关于安全晒黑，最大的误区是什么？
Doctor Idris, what's the biggest myth about getting a safe tan?
没有安全的晒黑。
There is no safe tan.
任何因阳光而产生的肤色变化，包括雀斑，都是DNA受损的迹象。
A tan and any form of pigment that gets produced because of the sun, even a freckle, is a sign of DNA damage.
所以，任何说‘但我有基础晒黑’的人，其实只是在告诉我，他们的皮肤已经对紫外线做出了反应，细胞内的DNA已经受到内部损伤。
And so anybody who says, oh, but I get a base tan is just telling me that their skin is already reacting to the UV rays that it got and it has internally damaged the DNA of their cells.
哇哦。
Woah.
所以没有安全的晒黑。
So there's no safe tan.
好的。
Okay.
对于我这样的人，成长于七八十年代，那时会涂满邦德牌晒油。
So for somebody like me who really blew this, child of the late seventies and the eighties who would lather up with band of sole tanning oil.
是的。
Yeah.
然后我会躺在我的车道上，
And then I would lay on my driveway with my
朋友乔迪，当然我用了锡纸。
friend Jodi Of course I had the foil.
当然了。
Of course.
我追求那种古铜色的肤色，把比基尼往下拉。
I was going for that copper tan, pull the bikini down.
我皮肤损伤太严重了，但我得到了明显的晒痕。
I have so much skin damage, but I got the tan line.
这种损伤能逆转吗？
Can you reverse that damage?
我喜欢什么
What do I like
帮助自己永远不晚。
It's never too late to help yourself.
第一，如果你曾经这样做过，一定要每年做一次皮肤检查。因为，没错，这已经造成DNA损伤了，你不想得皮肤癌，确实可能发展成皮肤癌，但好消息是，皮肤癌在早期发现时非常容易治疗。
Number one, I think if you are somebody who's done that, make sure you go in for a yearly skin exam Because, yes, it's already DNA damage and you don't wanna get skin cancer, and you may develop skin cancer, but the good news with skin cancer is it's highly treatable when caught early.
所以，别让恐惧阻碍你去做检查，每年都去做一次皮肤检查吧。
So don't let fear get in the way of you getting checked and just go in for a yearly skin exam.
就像你定期去做牙齿清洁一样，也要定期检查皮肤。
The same way you go in for dental cleaning, get your skin checked.
是的。
Yep.
但当然，至少从美容角度来看，你还是可以自我改善的，因为这种损伤通常会如何表现呢？
But you can, of course, help yourself, at least from a cosmetic standpoint, because how does that damage usually show up?
首先，它会表现为棕褐色斑点、晒斑、色素沉着和肤色不均。
First, it shows up in the form of brown spots, sunspots, hyperpigmentation, discoloration.
因此，了解如何将非处方护肤品作为基础护理，与处方产品结合使用，能为你提供一种非常有效的方法，让皮肤看起来更清新、更好。
And so understanding how to use skincare over the counter as a baseline routine married to prescription is gonna give you a very solid way to help your skin to look fresher and better.
我现在开始理解那些营销话术了，因为我总是看到广告说能‘逆转’日晒损伤。
I'm starting to understand the marketing language now because I am constantly seeing where it says reverses, you know, sun damage.
但它实际的意思是减轻晒伤的迹象，因为你无法消除对DNA造成的损伤，最多只能让开始出现的褐斑变浅。
But what it's actually saying is reverses the signs of sun damage because you can't get rid of the damage done to the DNA, you can just maybe lighten the brown spot that's starting to appear.
我明白了。
Am I
你懂了吗？
catching on?
没错。
Exactly.
你正在成为一个更聪明的医生。
You're making a smarter doctor
关于子宫的。
of uterus.
没错。
Exactly.
所以这就是你需要的三类产品。
So those are the three categories of products that you need.
你需要一款温和的洁面产品。
You need a gentle cleanser.
嗯哼。
Mhmm.
你需要保湿霜，还需要防晒霜。
You need a moisturizer and you need sunscreen.
是的。
Yes.
关于这个话题，我还有太多问题想问你，但请你稍等一下，我需要短暂休息一下，插播一段赞助商广告。
I have so many more questions to ask you about this, but I need you to just hold on for a second because I need to take a quick break so we can hear a word from our sponsors.
在我们插播广告的时候，这也是一个绝佳的时机，把这一集分享给你关心的人，那些正在为皮肤问题困扰、浴室里堆满护肤品、感到不知所措的人，他们正需要这种来自医生的、令人安心、温和而清晰、能改变人生的建议。
And while we do, this is the perfect moment for you to share this episode with somebody that you love who's struggling with their skin or whose bathroom is overflowing with products or who's overwhelmed and just needs this kind of reassuring, kind, clear, life changing information that Doctor.
伊德里斯今天带给我们的。
Idris is giving us today.
所以在听广告的时候，我想请你立即发送这条链接，发给某个人。
So while you listen to the sponsors, I want you to hit send, text this link to somebody.
我已经知道要发给谁了，别走开。
I already know exactly who I'm sending this to, and don't go anywhere.
因为回来后，Idris医生。
Because when we come back, Doctor.
将回答她临床中被问得最多的问题。
Idris is answering more of the most asked questions in her practice.
我们马上回来。
We'll be right back.
欢迎回来，我是你的朋友梅尔。
Welcome back, it's your friend Mel.
今天，你和我将与杰出的Idris医生共度时光。
Today, you and I are getting to spend time with the incredible Doctor.
谢琳·Idris。
Shereen Idris.
她是一位认证皮肤科医生，也是全国最受信赖的皮肤健康权威之一。
She's a board certified dermatologist and one of the most trusted voices on skin health in the country.
她提醒你和我，你的皮肤不是需要解决的问题，而是一种需要建立的关系。
And she's reminding you and me that your skin is not a problem to solve, it's a relationship to build.
今天，她将详细讲解：如果你想拥有更健康的皮肤——不仅看起来更好，而且让你感觉更舒适，该吃什么、该做什么、不该做什么。
And today, she's breaking down what to eat, what to do, what not to do if you want healthier skin that not only looks better but that you feel good in too.
好的。
Alright.
医生。
Doctor.
Idris医生，现在我们来谈谈那些你应该避开的东西，因为它们都是浪费钱。
Idris, now let's talk about the things that you should skip because they are a waste of money.
从概念上来说，
And to just think of this conceptually
嗯。
Mhmm.
任何承诺立即见效的产品，很可能并不利于你的长期利益。
Anything that is promising instant results, it's probably not gonna be for the best of your long term benefit.
任何会破坏你皮肤屏障的东西，都不利于你的长期利益。
Anything that is breaking your skin barrier, it's not gonna be for the best of your long term benefit.
任何会刺激或引发皮肤发炎的东西，和破坏皮肤屏障一样，都不利于你的长期利益。
And anything that is irritating or inflaming your skin, similar to breaking your skin barrier, it's not gonna be for the best of your long term benefit.
所以第一点。
So number one.
明白吗？
Alright?
哎呀。
Uh-oh.
并不是所有片状面膜都不行，但当面膜的形式与产品想要提供的效果不匹配时，就是一个警示信号。
It's not sheet masks as a whole category, But when the format doesn't match what the product is trying to give you, it's a red flag.
你手里拿着的那种面膜，我现在在每个收银台都能看到，我女儿们特别喜欢用。
So you're holding these masks that I see at every checkout now that have all the like, my daughters wear these like crazy.
我通常在坐飞机时会贴一片，但我其实并不知道自己买的是什么。
I typically will put one on on a plane, but I don't know what I'm buying.
这时候你就得明白什么是活性成分。
This is where you have to understand what an active is.
好的。
Okay.
所以片状面膜的作用是镇静皮肤，锁住水分，让那些成分留在皮肤上。
So the point of a sheet mask is to calm your skin down, to hold on to that hydration, to keep that gunk in.
对吧？
Right?
好的。
Okay.
当你找到一款含有视黄醇等活性成分的片状面膜时，这就是个警示信号，因为产品的形式与成分不匹配。
When you find a sheet mask with an active like a retinol, this is a red flag because the format of the product doesn't match the ingredients.
我最不想做的就是在敏感区域将视黄醇置于封闭环境中。
The last thing I would wanna do is put a retinol under occlusion in a sensitive area.
这简直就是一场灾难的配方。
It's like a recipe for chaos and disaster.
所以，了解你所购买的产品对你来说非常重要。
So understanding what you're purchasing is very important for you.
这就是为什么我认为，了解成分是什么、我们希望通过它们实现什么目标，以及在我打好基础后，有哪些不同的产品形式可以叠加使用，这一点很重要。
That's why I think it's important to have a basic understanding of what are ingredients, what are we trying to achieve with them, and then what are the different formats that exist that I can layer into my skincare once I have my foundation in place?
你知道吗，如果你要买一个面膜，你会看重什么？
You know, if you were to buy a mask, what are you looking for?
只是像清凉、保湿这样的效果吗？
Just like cooling, moisturizing?
说实话，我就是想要补水和保湿，因为我追求的是那种立竿见影的饱满光泽感，用完就完事了。
Honestly, really just hydrating, moisturizing because I'm looking for that instant kind of pumping glow and then I'm done.
明白了。
Got it.
我并不是为了它的长期效果而购买。
I'm not looking for long term gains of it.
好的。
Okay.
下一个产品是什么？
What is the next product?
我们不应该在上面浪费钱。
We should not waste money on.
来了。
Here it goes.
准备好了吗？
Ready?
哎呀。
Uh-oh.
这有点争议，比如丝瓜络。
It's a little controversial, but like a loofah.
明白吗？
Okay?
为什么我不该用丝瓜络？
Why should I not have a loofah?
第一，让我有点担心的是，人们会用丝瓜络来清洁脸部。
Number one, what worries me a bit about loofahs is people use this on their face.
我见过无数次这种情况。
And I've seen this time and time again.
如果这不是这种合成材质的丝瓜络，而是传统的天然丝瓜络的话。
If it's not a loofah that looks like this, like a synthetic one, the traditional natural loofahs
是的。
Yeah.
那些海绵。
Those sponges.
有人用它们来洗脸，我在临床中见过这种情况。
Used them on their faces, and I've seen this in my practice.
它是一种通过物理方式去除死皮细胞的物理性去角质产品。
It is a physical exfoliant that's getting rid of dead skin cells physically.
对吧？
Right?
但脸部的皮肤要薄得多，使用它可能会造成极大的刺激和伤害。
But the skin of your face is much thinner, and it can be extremely irritating and aggressive.
更不用说很多人根本不清洁它，细菌会滋生，水分会滞留，容易发霉，既不卫生，也绝对不是好选择。
Not to mention the fact that many people don't clean this, and bacteria can build up, water can be stuck in there, it can get moldy, gross, and just not necessarily the best thing.
第三点。
Number three.
不过，这也不是完全的魔鬼。
Now this is not the complete devil.
在某些情况下它可能有用，但我并不建议每天使用。
There are moments when it can be useful, but this is not something I recommend every day.
卸妆时她来了
Makeup removal She's coming
在卸妆湿巾之后，大家。
after the makeup wipes, everybody.
但我已经提前说明过了。
I but I I prefaced it.
不是每天都用吗？
Not every day?
不是大多数日子都用。
Not most days.
大概每周一次吧。
Definitely may maybe once a week.
这就像是一种紧急情况下的急救措施，放在床头，如果你出去玩了一晚上，累得不想洗脸，可以用它。
It's like this is reserved as your SOS by your bedside if you had a night out and you're too tired to wash your face.
至少你保证了在照顾自己，把脸上的化妆品卸掉。
At least you're guaranteeing that you're trying to show up for yourself and get that makeup off your face.
用这些东西直接擦掉妆容有什么坏处吗？我 literally 就像在刮一块烧焦的锅底，拼命想把残留物刮干净。
What is the downside to basically scrub I I literally scrub my makeup off with one of those things like I am trying to get bits off a pan that is burnt to it.
你可以这样想。
Think of it this way.
想象一下一个橙子。
Look at imagine an orange.
对吧？
Right?
而且它的表面有很多微小的凹坑，就像毛孔一样。
And it has all these tiny little pits that are in the pores.
现在，给这个橙子涂上粉底。
Now let's cover that orange with foundation.
现在它变成了
It's now
根本不是。
at all.
是的。
Yep.
随便吧。
Whatever.
调过色的粉底橙子。
Toned foundation orange.
好吧？
Okay?
你拿一张卸妆湿巾，把那个橙子擦干净。
You take a makeup wipe and you clean that orange.
你在干什么？
What are you doing?
你实际上只是把情况抹开了——当你看这个橙子时，可能会看到一些橙色的色调透出来，但你其实只是把东西留在了毛孔里。
You're basically smear what's happened is that when you look at this orange, it might have shades of orange come through, but you've really just kept the stuff in the pores.
所以你并没有去除任何东西。
So you haven't gotten rid of anything.
你只是把它均匀地抹开了。
You've just smeared it across the board.
而且你觉得你已经去除了它，因为所有东西都盖在表面了，但事实上你说得对。
Well, and you feel like you've gotten rid of it because it's all right on the thing, but the truth is you're right.
我早上醒来
I wake up in the morning
而且那个枕套上可能还留着一点残留物。
And there's probably a little residue on that pillowcase.
枕头，还有
Pillow, and
我的眼妆在眼睛下面糊开了。
my my eye makeup is smeared underneath my eyes.
你说得对。
You're right.
这挺有意思的。
And it's funny.
我的意思是，我也做过这种事。
When I I mean, I've been guilty of this.
对吧？
Right?
有些晚上我没洗脸，所以没人是完美的。
There are nights when I haven't washed my face, so no one's perfect.
但在你二十多岁和三十多岁的时候，这并不是什么大问题。
But in your twenties and thirties, it's not that big a deal.
一旦你到了四十岁，如果带着妆睡觉，第二天早上就会看起来像棺材里的尸体。
Once you turn 40, if you fall asleep with makeup, you look like the crypt keeper overnight the next day.
你的皮肤状况会急剧变差。
It's like your skin quality goes to crap.
你无法像以前那样快速恢复。
You can't bounce back as fast.
你立刻就能看到影响。
It just you you see the impact immediately.
所以我认为养成真正洗脸的习惯非常重要。
And so I think being in the habit of actually washing your face is huge.
而卸妆湿巾，再次说明，有一部分人会依赖卸妆湿巾。
And makeup wipes, again, there's there's a certain subset of the population who turns to makeup wipes.
也许他们有残疾。
Maybe they have a disability.
有总比没有好。
Something is better than nothing.
是的。
Yes.
所以我才说他们不是，或者你
And I that's why I said they're not Or you're
在飞机上。
on a plane.
太棒了。
Fantastic.
或者是深夜。
Or it's a late night.
太棒了。
Fantastic.
但如果这是你清洁脸部的主要方式，那就不行。
But if it's your main way of washing your face, no.
这就是为什么我要先说明卸妆湿巾。
That's why I had to preface the makeup wipes.
现在这也是另一个。
Now this is also another one.
如果你是九十年代的孩子，就不要用去角质贴。
If you're a child of the nineties, no strips.
不要用去角质贴。
No strips.
这只会给你暂时的效果，但不会带来长期的改变。
This is gonna give you temporary results, but it's not gonna give you long term change.
好的。
Okay.
而且它看起来非常吸引人，因为你感觉真的清理出了什么东西。
And it's very visually appealing because you feel like you got something out.
是的。
Yes.
但鼻贴的问题在于，这种视觉上的即时满足并不等于长期效果。
But the problem with nose strips is that visual instant gratification does not equal long term results.
我只想重点强调这句话，因为我们喜欢那种能取出毛孔最表层污垢的感觉，但这其实是一种非常剧烈的做法。
And I'm just gonna hyper focus on that sentence because we like the fact that we take out the most superficial layer of our pores, but it's an extremely aggressive movement.
如果长期持续使用，你的毛孔会被拉伸，长远来看，反而可能让皮肤质地和毛孔显现的问题变得更严重。
And over time, if you keep doing it, you're gonna stretch your pores, and you're probably gonna buy yourself a bigger problem over time with in terms of your texture and how your pores show up.
这会导致什么样的问题呢？
What kind of problem can it lead to?
我说的是肤质的变化。
I mean, textural changes.
它会让毛孔变得更加明显。
It makes your pores more apparent.
你的毛孔会更快地再次堵塞，因为它只是去除了表层的污垢，现在
Your pores can start filling up faster again because it's just getting rid of that superficial Now
我得再次使用它来清理，听你这么说，这听起来太糟糕了。
I'm having to use it again to get it out as you're filling up this sounds terrible.
这时候，水杨酸洁面乳就很有帮助，它能减少这种堆积，而不是像某些产品那样只带来即时满足感，比如
And this is where, like, a salicylic acid cleanser can be helpful to help to minimize that buildup instead of something that's giving you an instant gratification, like
多巴胺，你用了‘活性成分’这个词。
dopamine You used the word actives.
嗯。
Mhmm.
那我们来多聊聊这些成分吧。
So let's talk more about them.
像维生素C、视黄醇、烟酰胺，如果你还这么念的话，还有透明质酸。
Things like vitamin c, retinol, niacinamide, if you even say it that way, haldr hyalidronic acid.
你知道的？
You know?
谁该用这些成分，谁又不该用？
Who should use this stuff and who should not?
好的。
Okay.
活性成分对于支持你的皮肤整体状况非常重要，具体取决于你的目标。
So actives are very important to help support your skin overall depending on what your goals are.
对吧？
Right?
但我还想再强调一点。
But I just wanna preface one thing again.
这并不意味着它们是神奇成分。
It doesn't mean that they are miracle ingredients.
因此，了解每种成分的作用对你判断是否需要将其纳入护肤流程至关重要。
So, understanding what each one does is very important for you to know if you want it in your routine.
但让我们先从维生素C开始。
But let's start with vitamin c.
我认为维生素C的营销宣传太多了。
I think vitamin c has a lot of marketing around it.
食品行业的影响常常渗透到美容领域，好吧。
The food industry often trickles into the beauty Okay.
但我不知道它有什么作用。
But I don't know what it does.
不是的。
No.
没错。
Exactly.
我觉得维生素
And I think vitamin
我其实把维生素C涂在脸上，但我不知道它有什么作用。
I actually c put it on my face and I don't know what it does.
好的。
Okay.
维生素C，大多数人其实都能从中受益。
Vitamin c, most people a lot of people can benefit from it.
好的。
Okay.
它有什么作用？
What does it do?
它能改善你皮肤的整体色调。
It's gonna help with your overall tone of your skin.
也就是说，它会让皮肤更紧致。
Meaning, it'll make it firmer.
肤色。
Skin color.
哦。
Oh.
这是个非常好的问题。
It's a great, great question.
有趣的是，我以前也对‘色调’的意思感到困惑。
And it's funny because I used to even be confused by tone meant.
它指的是你的肤色。
It means your skin color.
那我可以问个关于这个的问题吗？
Well, can I ask a question about that?
所以如果你像我这样，是个苍白的僵尸，总是容易脸红。
So if you're like a pale zombie like me who turns red all the time.
嗯。
Mhmm.
这可能并不是最适合你的东西。
It might not necessarily be the best thing for you.
好的。
Okay.
我们会聊聊不同类型的维生素C。
We'll talk about the types of vitamin c.
但维生素C有助于淡化褐斑和改善肤色不均。
But vitamin c helps with brown spots, helps with discoloration.
是的。
Yes.
好的。
Okay.
它还有助于胶原蛋白的生成。
It also helps with collagen production.
你需要维生素C来合成胶原蛋白，同时它还具有抗氧化保护作用。
You need vitamin c to produce collagen, but it also has antioxidant protection.
因此，它能帮助你的皮肤抵御环境压力源，这些压力源会产生自由基，导致胶原蛋白过早分解。
So it's going to help to protect your skin from, like, the environmental stressors that can cause free radicals that cause your collagen to break down early.
所以，它是一种非常有效的成分，有着悠久的使用历史，非常适合纳入你的护肤流程。
So it is a very powerful ingredient that has a huge track record, and it's a great one to have in your routine.
但维生素C是一个大类。
But vitamin C is a category.
其中一种活性形式的维生素C被称为抗坏血酸。
There's the active form of vitamin C known as ascorbic acid.
此外，还有许多非活性形式的维生素C。
And then there's a whole inactive side to vitamin c.
天哪。
Oh my god.
所以我们可能会买一些标着维生素C但其实不是活性成分的产品，是的。
So we may be buying something that says vitamin c that has that's not active Yes.
以为它是活性的。
Thinking it's active.
对。
Yes.
我们怎么知道呢？
How do we know?
这就涉及到我认为的关键点：了解你购买的品牌，了解该品牌所传递的教育内容，了解不同的维生素C形式，自己多学习一点——不需要拿到博士学位，但要足够了解，才能判断它是否能真正帮到你。
You have to under this is where I think, again, understanding who you're buying from, understanding the education that the brand puts out, understanding the different forms, and just educating yourself, not to gain a PhD, but to know enough to be dangerous to understand, can I use this to help myself?
所以你用活性维生素C来改善肤色和色斑？
So you use vitamin c, active vitamin c, for tone, for brown spots?
两种都可以用。
You can use both.
这两种都能帮助解决所有这些问题。
Both of them help with all of these issues.
好的。
Okay.
但如果你觉得自己皮肤敏感，容易发红反应，我可能不会建议你使用活性形式。
But if you're someone who thinks you have sensitive skin and your skin's very reactive, I probably wouldn't tell you to use the active form.
好的。
Okay.
因为活性形式味道更刺鼻，或者说是更强烈。
Because it's much more pungent or whatever the word is.
效果更强。
Like, has a stronger punch.
好的。
Okay.
所以我可能会建议你选择非活性形式的维生素。
And so I'd probably tell you go for the inactive form of vitamins.
好的。
Okay.
那视黄醇呢？
What about retinol?
大家都在谈论视黄醇。
Everybody's talking about retinol.
我看到，你知道的，青少年都在买含视黄醇的产品。
I see, you know, teenagers buying products with retinol in it.
还有什么其他视黄醇？
What is other retinol?
视黄醇是活性成分中的王者。
Retinol is the crown jewel of active ingredients.
它是维生素A的衍生物。
Is a vitamin A derivative.
好的。
Okay.
作为处方药，它被称为维甲酸，一种视黄醇类化合物。
And as a prescription, it is known as tretinoin, a retinoid.
非处方药则被称为视黄醇。
Over the counter, it's called a retinol.
就像维生素C有非活性形式一样，视黄醇是非活性形式，而处方药则是活性形式。
Now, like vitamin C has an inactive form, retinol is the inactive form, and the prescription is the active form.
哦。
Oh.
这类维生素A旨在帮助增厚皮肤、促进胶原蛋白生成，并调节细胞更新过程。
But this category of vitamin a is meant to help to build thicker skin, to promote collagen production, to help regulate how your cells turn over.
因此，青少年最初用它来治疗痤疮，比如黑头和白头，哦。
So teenagers would use it originally for acne, like blackheads and whiteheads Oh.
以减少其黏附性。
To minimize how it sticks.
后来我们发现它还有长期的抗衰老益处。
And then we realized it has long term longevity benefits.
因此，它成为了抗衰老领域的常备品，并且有大量临床数据支持其效果。
So it became a staple for the antiaging world, and it has a huge track record of clinical data to support it.
但我认为人们对视黄醇和视黄酸的一个误解是：越强越好。
But one thing that I think people get wrong about retinols and retinoids is that stronger is better.
我因为用这个把脸烧伤了。
I burnt my face doing this.
这是错误的，因为与其一时用得过强而出问题，不如长期坚持使用更温和的剂量。
That is wrong because you are going to just it's better to be consistent over time than to go wrong and strong.
我说的是视黄醇。
And I say with retinol
我就是那种喜欢用强效产品的人。
I'm a wrong and strong gal.
医生。
Doctor.
艾德里斯，我明白了。
Idris, I I got it.
我用了他克莫司之类的东西，一周内皮肤红得像蜥蜴一样，可能是因为我涂得太厚了，后来我就干脆不用了。
The tretinoin thing or whatever it's called, I looked like a lizard that had red skin within a week because I probably over applied, and then I just stopped doing it altogether.
没错。
Exactly.
你被吓退了。
You got dissuaded.
是的。
Yes.
关键是坚持，而不是强度。
So it's about consistency over intensity.
我宁愿你选择非处方的最温和浓度的视黄醇，每周用五晚。
I would rather you pick the inactive form at its lightest concentration over the counter and use it five nights a week.
好的。
K.
也许偶尔用一次处方药。
And maybe use the prescription once.
好的。
Okay.
保持皮肤健康、状态良好，因为如果你每周都这样做，引发的炎症长期来看对你 aging 并无益处。
And have a healthy, happy skin state because that inflammation that you're gonna cause let's say you're doing this every week.
长期来看，随着你年龄增长，这并不会对你有好处。
Long term, it's not gonna benefit you as you age.
假设你只用了一次，那你就一点好处都没得到。
And let's say you just did it once, you got zero benefit out of that.
你只是受到了伤害。
You've just been traumatized.
完全正确。
Completely.
所以我并不认同试图使用更高浓度的做法。
And so I I I don't believe in trying to push for a higher concentration.
关键是每周大多数夜晚你使用的浓度，是你能坚持使用且不会让皮肤发炎的浓度。
It's about what are you using most nights of the week and you're able to hold onto without inflaming your skin.
跟我聊聊透明质酸吧，我总是念不对这个词。
Talk to me about hydro I can never say this word.
透明质酸。
Hyaluronic acid.
透明质酸。
Hyaluronic acid.
就在四五年之前，这种成分在每一个美容品牌的大规模营销活动中都大受欢迎。
So this was all the rage even, like, four or five years ago where you saw it on every beauty brand mark mass marketing campaign.
有趣的是，在美容行业，最大的障碍是营销和教育——消费者听到某些成分就会想：哦，我需要这个。
And it's funny because when it comes to the beauty industry, the biggest barrier is marketing and education so that consumers hear ingredients and they think, oh, I need that.
是的。
Yes.
它是一种保湿剂，能吸引水分。
It is a humectant that attracts water.
保湿剂指的是喜欢水并能吸附水分的成分。
A humectant means an ingredient that likes water and attracts it.
那会发生什么？
So what's gonna happen?
它会让你的肌肤更有保湿效果，更饱满。
It's gonna give you more of a hydrating effect, a plumping effect.
你会看起来更有弹性一些。
You're gonna look a little bit bouncier.
它有助于改善细纹。
It's gonna help with the fine lines.
看起来更有弹性是好事吗？
Is that a good thing to look bouncier?
为什么不呢？
Why not?
好吧。
Okay.
为什么不呢？
Why not?
我不知道。
I don't know.
我不想看起来干瘪。
I don't wanna look deflated out.
说得对。
That's true.
我也不想。
I don't either.
我宁愿更有弹性。
I'd rather be bouncy.
好吧。
Okay.
但它并不是市场上最好的保湿成分，这一点是首要的。
But it's not the end all be all and best humectants on the market, number one.
第二，它几乎是你可能正在使用的八成产品的成分。
Number two, it is quite literally an eight out of 10 products that you're probably using.
哦，好的。
Oh, okay.
所以你真的需要在你的推荐清单里专门加入它，来让生活更复杂、增加更多压力、占用更多时间吗？
So do you need to have it as a dedicated product in your roundup to complicate your life and to add more stress and to add more time to your routine?
大概不需要。
Probably not.
我喜欢你这样简化这一切，Idris医生，因为归根结底还是那三个步骤，问问自己：我对什么不满意？
I love how you're simplifying all this, doctor Idris, because it just comes back to that three step routine and asking yourself, what am I not happy about?
我想在哪些方面看到改善？
What is it that I'd like to see an improvement in?
我想解决的是什么问题？
What is it that I wanna address?
然后去了解该添加什么合适的产品。
And then educating yourself about the right thing to add.
我同时也听到你说：要循序渐进，从低浓度开始。
And I'm also hearing, go low and slow.
循序渐进。
Low and slow.
这件事也要循序渐进。
Low and slow on this.
就像你不想一脚踩油门，把自己的皮肤烫伤，像梅尔·罗宾斯那样。
Like, you don't wanna step on the pedal and burn your skin like Mel Robbins did.
这有点像节食。
But it's kind of like dieting.
对吧？
Right?
我们节食的时候，会说我要减掉80磅吗？
I Do we go into a diet and say I'm gonna lose 80 pounds?
不会。
No.
会。
Yes.
你会，但你不会，然后你就不再做了。
You'll but you And then you don't.
然后你就不再做了。
But then you don't.
接着你会被劝退，觉得这不适合我。
And then you get, you know, dissuaded and you feel like it's not for me.
所以让我们关注小成就、微小的步骤，那些我们确信不会让自己失败的小事，真正先让事情朝着正确的方向启动，而不是一开始就对整个过程过于热情。
So let's focus on small wins, baby steps, things that we know are we're not gonna fail ourselves by, and really try to get the ball rolling in the right direction before we start to be too gung ho about the whole process.
艾德里斯医生，我们来聊聊敏感肌肤。
Doctor Idris, let's talk about sensitive skin.
全球百分之七十的成年人表示自己有敏感肌肤，会出现发红、刺激、刺痛，通常是由护肤品引起的。
Seventy percent of adults worldwide say they have sensitive skin, redness, irritation, stinging, often from skincare products.
他们于是假设，好吧。
And they assume, okay.
那就只是这样了。
Well, that's all that it is.
敏感肌肤到底意味着什么？
What does sensitive skin really mean?
作为皮肤科医生，Idris医生，是什么导致了皮肤的敏感性？
And as a dermatologist, doctor Idris, what could be driving the sensitivity in the skin?
十个人中有七个说自己有敏感肌肤。
So seven out of ten people say they have sensitive skin.
但事实上，真正有皮肤敏感问题的人只有十分之一。
But the reality is people who have true sensitivities is much lower at one out of ten.
等等，真的吗？
Real wait.
十分之一的人
One out of ten people
有敏感问题？
have sensitivities?
真正的敏感问题。
Real sensitivities.
好的。
Okay.
因此，人们对敏感肌肤作为一种皮肤类型的看法常常是错误的，因为他们描述的并不是一种皮肤疾病，而是一种皮肤状态。
So the perception of what sensitive skin is as a skin type is often misplaced because what they're describing is not a skin condition, but a skin state.
他们的皮肤非常敏感易激。
Their skin is very reactive.
他们有易激性皮肤。
They have reactive skin.
但真正的敏感是指我无法耐受。
But sensitive true sensitivities is I cannot tolerate.
我在编造。
I'm making it up.
一种防腐剂。
A preservative.
当我的皮肤接触到这种防腐剂时，我会出现严重的皮疹，又痒又发作，持续好几天，必须服药才能缓解。
And when I have this preservative on my skin, I get a crazy rash that's itchy, and I flare up, and it lasts for days, and I have to go on medication to calm it down.
所以这更像是一种过敏。
So it's more like an allergy.
它变得有点像过敏了。
It becomes kind of like an allergy.
为什么会这样？
Why is that?
但你可能因为多种原因出现敏感肌肤。
But you could have reactive skin for a number of reasons.
你可能天生就是容易敏感的人。
You can have reactive skin for you can just be reactive human.
大多数白人都容易敏感。
Most white people are reactive.
你的皮肤会泛红。
You're gonna see redness come up on your skin.
明白吗？
Alright?
大多数白人都有皮肤易反应的特性。
Most white people have that reactivity in their skin.
如果我洗脸，皮肤会变得更红，但几分钟后就会平静下来。
If I wash my face, I get redder, and then it calms down after a few minutes.
这并不意味着我皮肤敏感。
That doesn't mean I'm sensitive.
为什么会更红呢？
Why does it get redder?
因为摩擦增加了血流，你更容易看到红肿，而且你的黑色素含量低，所以更明显。
Because of the rubbing, your blood flow, you see it more, your melanin's low, it's more obvious.
但话说回来，大多数人其实并没有真正的敏感问题，只是皮肤处于这种状态。
But that being said, most people don't actually have real sensitivities, and it's that skin state.
所以当你开始感受到刺痛、发红和灼烧感，尤其是来自以前从不引起不适的产品时，这通常是长期慢性炎症的结果，哦。
And so when you start seeing stinging, redness, and burning, especially from products that never bothered you before, it's the result of long term probably chronic inflammation Oh.
这种炎症如果没有得到彻底解决，久而久之就会发展成真正的敏感。
That hasn't been fully addressed where then you develop a real sensitivity over time.
所以当你有这种易反应的皮肤时，很容易出现 flare-up，你首先应该始终达成的目标是让皮肤平静下来。
So when you have this reactive kind of skin, very easy to flare up, the first goal that you should always have is to calm your skin down.
再次回到基础，专注于一些你皮肤能够耐受的简单护理流程，以保持皮肤平静。
Again, going back to the basics, focus on some basic routine that you know your skin can tolerate that keeps your skin calm.
我认为这可能是最难做到的，因为当人们皮肤出现反应时，即使只是两三天，他们也会叠加使用各种产品，试图修复问题，而不让皮肤自己完成平静和愈合的过程。
And that I think is probably the hardest thing to do because when people get reactive, even if it's for two, three days, they start compounding things and products trying to fix it without letting their skin do its thing to calm down and heal.
所以第一步，如果你的皮肤非常敏感或易反应，就是停止所有护肤产品，这会让很多人感到恐慌。
So step one, if your skin is very sensitive or reactive, is to stop everything, and this freaks people out.
我会说，你不会融化的。
I'm like, you're not gonna melt.
明白吗？
Okay?
你会挺过这一两周的。
You're going to survive this for like a week or two.
从护肤品到化妆品，全部停用。
Everything from skincare to makeup.
你只需要用清水洗脸。
You're gonna wash your face with water.
如果你真的需要某种封闭剂，可以用凡士林。
And if you really need something, if you really need an occlusive of some sort, you can use Vaseline.
但在修复之前，你必须先让皮肤平静下来。
But you have to calm the skin before you can correct it.
第二步非常枯燥且缓慢，但你要慢慢重建皮肤屏障。
And then step two is very boring and very slow, but you rebuild your barrier slowly.
首先，你可以添加一种保湿霜，让它发挥作用几天，确保你在这几天内不会对它产生反应。
So, you first incorporate then a moisturizer, and you let that work for you for a few days, and you make sure that you're not reacting to that for a few days.
一旦你确认没问题了，就可以开始添加洁面产品。
Once you have that green check mark and green light, then you incorporate a cleanser.
观察你的皮肤在使用洁面产品和保湿霜几天后的反应，这样你才能逐步调整方向。
You see how your skin does with the cleanser and the moisturizer over a few days, and then it can allow you to sort of pivot and see in which direction you're going.
但这样做能让你重新掌握主动权，而不是陷入这种混乱的反应循环中：用这个来镇定，用那个来修复，结果反而更刺痛、更发炎，陷入无尽的恶性循环。
But that puts the control back in your hands, that you're not just living this crazy life of reactivity and trying to calm it with this and use that, and then it stings more and it gets more inflamed, and it's this never ending cycle.
是的。
Yeah.
它只是切断现状，重置一切，让你能够以一种系统化且科学的方式重新开始，从而准确找出问题所在以及如何调整？
It just cuts it, resets it, and allows you to restart in a very systematic and academic way so you can pinpoint where are the shortcomings and how can I pivot?
所以如果你正在应对敏感肌肤
So if you're dealing with reactive skin
是的。
Yeah.
退一步，冷静下来，停止所有护理，先使用不含活性成分的保湿霜，因为我们必须重建屏障，然后才能逐步添加洁面产品，做一些基础护理来让皮肤休息。
Take a step back, calm down, stop everything, start with a moisturizer that's not got active stuff in it because we gotta rebuild the barrier, and then we can slowly start to add in a cleanser and do some of the basics to give our skin a break.
你真是个很好的倾听者。
You're a very good listener.
对。
Yes.
因为我想要学习。
Well, because I wanna learn.
我想确保我完全理解了。
I wanna make sure I'm That's getting exactly it.
因为我觉得我这一生把一切都想得太复杂了。
Because I think I've overcomplicated everything my whole life.
你和大多数人都是这样。
You and most people.
是的。
Yeah.
我们来谈谈痤疮吧。
Let's talk about acne.
仅在美国，每年就有多达五千万人受到痤疮影响，我知道痤疮有不同的类型。
It affects up to fifty million people a year in The US alone, and I understand that there are different types of acne.
嗯。
Mhmm.
你能解释一下痤疮的不同类型，以及人们如何判断自己属于哪一种吗？
And so can you explain the different types of acne and how someone can tell what they're dealing with?
是的。
Yes.
当然。
For sure.
痤疮不仅仅是青少年的问题。
So acne is not just a teenage problem.
我想首先说的是，我有很多28岁、35岁、44岁的女性也会长痘。
I wanna start off by saying that I have so many women who are 28, 35, 44 who get acne.
她们说：我不明白。
They're like, I don't understand.
我已经不是青少年了。
I'm not a teenager anymore.
我不是已经过了这个阶段了吗？
Wasn't I past this stage of my life?
但痤疮有四种亚型。
But there's four subtypes.
第一种，我们先从激素性痤疮开始，因为我提到了这些女性，而激素性痤疮是由周期性波动的激素引起的。
One, and we're gonna just start with hormonal acne because I mentioned these women, but hormonal acne is driven by hormonal fluctuations that come and go.
由于你的皮肤是你最大的可见器官，并且具有反馈系统，它会表现出来，尤其是由于雄激素敏感性，比如睾酮类激素。
And because your skin is your biggest visible organ that has a feedback system, it's going to show up on your skin, especially due to androgen sensitivity, so testosterone like hormones.
在这里，模式是关键。
And patterns are key here.
对于激素性痤疮，你通常会在下巴沿线发现这些深层囊肿型粉刺，并且在月经周期前后呈周期性出现。
With hormonal acne, you tend to notice it mostly along the jawline where you get these deep cystic pimples along your jawline in a cyclical fashion around your period.
因此，这种临床病史和皮损的分布特征通常指向激素性痤疮。
And so that clinical history and the physical distribution usually points towards hormonal acne.
接下来是第二种炎症性痤疮。
Then you have inflammatory acne number two.
炎症性痤疮你可以想象成脸上那些时有时无的典型红肿痘痘，随机出现在脸颊、鼻子、额头、下巴等部位。
Inflammatory acne, you can kind of think of as that classic red pimple on your face coming and going, a little haphazard on your cheeks, your nose, your forehead, chin, etcetera.
它常常由过度去角质、刺激性产品、皮肤屏障受损引起，比如那些过度清洁皮肤的人，或者在严冬季节，即使你什么都没做，也可能引发。
And it is often triggered by over exfoliation, hard products, barrier damage, people who overstripped their skin, harsh winters, even if you have done nothing, it can cause it.
如果这种炎症性痤疮得不到控制或妥善处理，可能会发展为更深的囊肿性痤疮，也就是第三种。
That inflammatory acne, if not under control or taken care of, can lead to deeper cystic acne, which is number three.
那些深部、疼痛的丘疹和结节，可能会留下严重的疤痕。
The deep painful pimples and nodules that can leave really bad scarring.
这是一种连续谱系的问题。
And this is one where it is a spectrum.
虽然存在一个渐进的过程，但你也可以因为自身易感性而直接发展为囊肿性痤疮。
There is a continuation, but you can also just go straight to cystic acne on your own just as a predisposition.
让我心痛的是，我完全支持身体积极理念。
And what breaks my heart is when I I'm all for body positivity.
但当你看到那些严重囊肿性痤疮的人，却只靠贴痘痘贴来应对时，你本可以采取治疗来减少疤痕遗留，这影响巨大，会改变你的整体自信。
But when you see people with really bad cystic acne just trying to use a pimple patch, when you could try to treat it to minimize the scarring left behind, it's huge and it can change your overall confidence.
它会影响你在社交场合中的表现。
It can change how you show up in social settings.
它会影响你如何展现自己，而且与心理健康有着非常紧密的联系。
It can change how you present for yourself, and it really has a very strong mental connection.
然后你有第四类，粉刺性痤疮。
And then you have number four, comedonal acne.
粉刺就是黑头和白头。
Comedones are blackheads, whiteheads.
当然，你可能会同时有几种情况，但如果你能 pinpoint 最主要的根源并从那里开始治疗，就能看到改善。
So you can have a little bit of everything, of course, but it's nice when you try to pinpoint what is the biggest root cause and start treating it there so you can start to see the improvements.
伊德里斯医生，为什么成年人会长痘？
Doctor Idris, why does adult acne happen?
当你在三十岁、四十岁或五十岁突然长痘时，这和青春期长痘有什么不同？
And what is different about it when you suddenly have acne in your thirties, forties, or fifties versus being a teenager?
因为你的荷尔蒙不稳定。
Because your hormones are not stabilized.
它们在波动。
They're fluctuating.
所以，你的荷尔蒙上下起伏。
So, you are a hormonal up and down.
再加上随着年龄增长，我们的细胞大约每28天更新一次。
Compound that with the fact that as we age, our cells turn over every twenty eight days or so.
但每过一个十年，这个周期可以增加十天。
But with each decade, you can add ten days.
所以到了三十多岁，可能是38天。
So, your thirties, it might be thirty eight days.
到了四十多岁，可能是48天。
In your forties, it might be forty eight days.
因此，你的细胞分化速度变慢了。
So, your cells are not differentiating as fast.
于是我们出现了炎症。
So, now we have inflammation.
现在细胞更新变慢了。
Now we have slower cell turnover.
再加上荷尔蒙波动，随着生命阶段的更替，我们对这些变化也变得更加敏感。
Now we have hormonal fluctuation, and so we tend to be more sensitive to it as you're going through those cycles of life.
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