有效抗衰老护肤

《帕特·肯尼秀》

The Pat Kenny Show

由Aviva保险冠名赞助，播出平台为Newstalk。

with Aviva Insurance on Newstalk.

很高兴在演播室欢迎尼基·拉尔夫教授，她是博尔斯布里奇九位临床医生组成的皮肤病学研究所的咨询皮肤科医生。

Glad to be joined in studio, by Professor Nikki Ralph, a consultant dermatologist with the Institute of Dermatologists, with nine clinicians in Ballsbridge.

我们想谈谈所谓的夏天，但如果你要出国旅行，那肯定是真正的夏天，如何护理你的皮肤。

And we want to talk about, well, our so called summer, but if you're jetting abroad, a definite summer, how to take care of your skin.

首先，欢迎你，尼基。

And welcome, Nikki, first of all.

那么，关于抗衰老，使用面霜的最佳方法是什么？

So the best way to deal with antiaging, in terms of creams is?

是防晒霜。

Is sunscreen.

我听起来可能像坏掉的唱片，但基本上，你一生中80%到90%的皱纹都是由紫外线辐射引起的。

So I sound like a broken record, but, basically, 80 to 90% of your wrinkles are caused by UV radiation over your lifetime.

所以如果你从小就开始保护皮肤，那么你可能根本不需要进行任何抗衰老治疗，因为你的皮肤会看起来好得多，看起来也更年轻。

So if you start young and you start to protect your skin early, then you may never need to go down the route of doing any antiaging treatments because your skin will just gonna look an awful lot better and your age and all that.

防晒霜里含有哪些化学成分？

What are what are the chemicals in sun sun protector?

它们各不相同。

So they vary.

你可以选择仅含物理成分的防晒霜，也可以选择化学防晒霜，或者两者结合的类型。

You can have a physical only sunscreen, or you can have a chemical sunscreen, or you can have a combination of both.

物理型防晒霜的作用就像我所理解的盾牌一样。

So the physical ones tend to act like I like to think of them like a shield.

当阳光照射到你身上时，它们会将紫外线反射回去，而不是被皮肤吸收。

So when the sun's rays are coming towards you, they bounce back the rays, so they're not actually being absorbed.

而化学型防晒霜则会吸收紫外线，然后通过化学反应将其转化。

And then the chemical ones do actually absorb the rays and then the chemicals change it.

这样就不会损伤你的DNA。

So it's not damaging your DNA.

但你可以将两者结合使用。

But you can have a combination of both.

所以一种并不比另一种更好。

So one is not better than the other.

物理防晒霜涂抹后立即生效，而化学防晒霜则需要大约二十到三十分钟才能达到瓶身标注的防护效果。

Both the physical sunscreen is more immediately active when you put it on, whereas the chemical sunscreens do take about twenty to thirty minutes to be, you know, the factor that they say they are in the bottle.

所以要。

So to be.

这适用于身体的所有部位吗？

And does that apply to all parts of your body?

你知道的，那种农夫晒斑。

You know, the thing a farmer's tan.

是的。

Yeah.

你明白我的意思吗？

You know what I mean?

比如，你的手不需要防晒霜，对吧？

Like, your hands don't require sunscreen, do you?

或者你的手。

Or or your your hey.

只是那些全年都晒不到太阳的地方。

It just be, you know, the places that never got the sun for the rest of the year.

不。

No.

我想，你的手和脖子可能是显示年龄的最大标志，因为通常女性可能会使用含有防晒成分的保湿霜或含有防晒成分的化妆品。

I suppose, like, your hands actually and your neck are probably the biggest giveaway of your age because often, particularly for women, they may be using moisturizer that contains sunscreen, makeup that contains sunscreen.

所以你的脸部一直在获得一定程度的保护。

So your face is is getting a certain level of protection all of the time.

但大多数人会忘记给手涂防晒霜，而我们又在开车。

But most of us forget our hands, and we're driving the car.

所以UVA全年365天都存在，能够穿透玻璃。

So UVA is there all year round, three hundred sixty five days a year that comes through glass.

因此，我们的手实际上会留下很多褐色斑点或晒斑，随着年龄增长，你会注意到皮肤变薄，血管更容易看到，因为胶原蛋白在流失，而胶原蛋白本质上是让皮肤饱满的支撑物。

And so our hands actually do get a lot of brown marks or sunspots on us, and you start to notice that your skin gets thinner and you can see your veins more easily as you get older because you're losing collagen, which is essentially plumping the skin.

它本质上是皮肤的支架。

It's the scaffolding for your skin, essentially.

所以，你 basically 的意思是，如果冬天根本没太阳，你也应该涂抹这种防晒霜来抗衰老？

So so basically, what you're saying is if there was no sun at all in wintertime, you should put this sun lotion on you to be antiaging.

是的。

Yeah.

我想是的。

I suppose.

我的意思是，在爱尔兰，冬天一月的时候，人们研究过那里的不同紫外线辐射水平。

I mean, in Ireland, the the sun it it's you know, if it was January, they have looked at studies looking at at the different levels of UV radiation there.

一月可能是爱尔兰唯一一个无法获得显著紫外线的月份，但我绝不会因为一月就停止在脸上使用防晒霜。

January is probably the only month in Ireland that you can't get a significant amount of UV, but I would never just stop using my sunscreen on my face because it's January.

它现在已经成为我的日常习惯。

It's in my routine now.

我出门前最后一件事就是做护肤，确保涂好了防晒霜。

It's the last thing I do before I'm gonna leave the house is do my skincare routine and make sure my sunscreen's on.

但没错，如果你要步行上班、骑车或开车，都会接触到UVA。

But, yes, if you're gonna be walking to work, cycling in your car, you're gonna get UVA.

即使在一月、二月，甚至三月的爱尔兰，紫外线也不会让你晒伤。

It'll never burn you in January or February, even March in Ireland.

UVB是导致晒伤的紫外线，通常在五月到十月期间存在。

The the UVB are the burning rays of the sun, and they're usually there from May to October.

好的。

Okay.

有人在这里问，问问你的嘉宾，防晒霜或防晒乳的价格贵贱有关系吗？

Someone asked here, ask your guest, does it matter how expensive the sunblock or sun cream is?

大品牌价格昂贵，所以我一般买Brutz这种平价品牌。

The bigger brands are pricey, so I just buy Brutz brand, I suppose, a generic brand.

我的意思是，不同类型的面霜在抗衰老效果上真的有质量差异吗？

That in terms of you know, is there different quality in terms of if you will get more antiaging effect if you use particular types of creams?

不。

No.

市场上有一些性价比很高的产品。

There are some really well priced products out there in the market.

最重要的是，产品标签上要标明“广谱”，能够防护UVA和UVB射线。

What's really important is that it says broad spectrum and that you're covering against both UVA and UVB rays.

防晒系数越高，防护效果越好，因为你能获得更多的保护。

And then the higher the factor, the better because you're going to get more protection.

但那个数字只代表对UVB的防护能力。

But that just accounts for the UVB protection is the number on it.

因此，我建议每个人全年都使用SPF 30的防晒产品。

So a factor 30, I would recommend that everyone wears that all year round.

但在夏季，我肯定会选用SPF 50或更高的产品。

But in the summer months, I'd certainly go up higher to a factor 50 or above.

好的。

Okay.

那么，使用防晒霜与使用保湿霜或粉底有什么关系呢？

And and how does that relate then to using sun cream versus, say, a moisturizer or foundation?

对于大多数产品来说，它们的防晒系数通常只有15到20左右。

So for the majority of them, they would probably only have a factor 15 to 20 in it for the most part.

所以，如果有人想先用保湿霜，那么他们应该始终把防晒霜作为最后一步涂抹在脸上。

So I would if somebody wants to use their moisturizer first, then they would always use their sunscreen as the last product on their face.

你可以把它看作是你和阳光之间的最后一道屏障。

So think of it as the last thing between you and the sun, essentially.

但你可以同时使用两者，不过防晒效果并不是叠加的——比如你脸上涂了SPF15的保湿霜和SPF13的防晒霜，并不会得到SPF45的防护效果，不幸的是，情况并不是这样的。

But you can use both, but it's not cumulative that if you put a factor 15 and a moisturizer on your face and a factor 13 and a sunscreen that you're getting a factor 45, unfortunately, it doesn't quite work like that.

但我会建议直接涂抹防晒霜，这样你才能确保获得充分的防护，不管产品上标注的是多少数值。

But I would say just put on sunscreen so that you know you're fully protective, whatever that figure is on the bottom.

比如说，你有特定的问题，比如眼下浮肿或眼角的鱼尾纹。

So say you have a particular problem, like bags under your eyes or crow's feet around the side of your eyes.

嗯。

Yeah.

现在做点什么还来得及吗？

Is it too late to do anything about that?

或者如果你看到它们开始出现，你应该怎么做？

Or if you see them emerging, what should you do?

不。

No.

永远都不晚。

It's never too late.

如果你只是担心鱼尾纹，那么最好的治疗方法可能是除皱注射或肉毒杆菌毒素。

I suppose if it was just crow's feet that you're concerned about, probably the best treatment for that is is anti wrinkle injections or botulinum toxin.

它的原理是放松肌肉。

So that works by relaxing the muscles.

这样你就不会眯眼从而形成鱼尾纹，肌肉会处于放松状态。

So instead of you kind of squinting and creating the crow's feet, your muscles are relaxed.

因此皮肤就不会被拉扯在表面了。

So the skin isn't being pulled across the the surface.

这样你就能放松这些肌肉，避免眼睛两侧出现皱纹。

So you will relax those muscles and not have the lines down the side of your eyes.

皮肤松弛主要出现在眼周区域。

Saggy skin is much more the eye area.

这可能是最难治疗的部位之一。

It's probably one of the most difficult areas to treat.

但那里有很多不同的治疗方法。

But there's loads of different treatments there.

如果你希望效果非常自然，可以使用自己的血液。

Can if you want to be very natural about it, you can use your own blood.

有一种叫做PRP（富血小板血浆）的程序，我们会抽取少量你的血液。

So there's a procedure called PRP or platelet rich plasma, where we basically take a little sample of your blood.

我们用一种叫离心机的设备将血液离心分离。

We spin it down in a machine called a centrifuge.

我们提取出干细胞和生长因子，然后将其重新注射到眼部。

We extract out the stem cells and the growth factors, and then we reinject it into the eye.

这在许多专科中都有应用。

This is used in loads of specialties.

我自己也做过，用于膝盖的软骨磨损。

I've had it done myself into my knees for cartilage wear and tear.

我们用它来促进头发生长，帮助那些遭受脱发困扰的人。

We use it for hair growth, to help hair, for for people suffering with hair loss.

因此，它被用于多种原因，但由于使用的是自己的血液，所以注射是安全的，不会产生反应。

So it's used for a lot of reasons, but it's it's safely injected because you can't have a reaction to your own blood.

好的。

Okay.

我以为晒太阳可以合成维生素D，对身体有益。

I thought that sunshine had vitamin d was good for you.

如果你涂了这么多护肤品，会不会影响维生素D的吸收？

If you put all these creams on, are you losing out on vitamin d?

不会。

No.

我们还没有研究证明你会完全阻断维生素D的生成。

We haven't have studies showing that you're completely blocking vitamin d production.

实际上，你需要相当大面积的皮肤暴露在阳光下才能获得足够的维生素D。

And actually, you do need quite a significant amount of your skin to be exposed to get the proper amount of vitamin D.

所以你也可以通过食用的食物来获取维生素D。

So you can also get it from your from your foods that you consume.

在爱尔兰，我们阳光不足，因为现在是我们的夏季。

So in Ireland, we don't get enough sun because at our summer now.

到目前为止，我们大多数人仍然穿着遮盖全身的衣服。

So far, most of us are still covered up.

由于天气仍然很冷，我们没有暴露太多皮肤。

We're not exposing an awful lot of skin because it's still so cold.

因此，我通常建议爱尔兰人在冬季服用维生素D补充剂，因为我们有好几个月都处于黑暗中。

So I would usually recommend that people actually take a vitamin D supplement in the winter in Ireland because we're in the dark for so many months.

所以，是的，北欧地区确实需要补充维生素D。

So, yeah, Northern Europe definitely needs to take vitamin D supplementation.

你如何促进胶原蛋白生成？

How do you boost collagen?

实际上，有多种方法可以做到这一点。

So there's well, there's a number of ways to do it.

如果你只想使用乳霜，可以使用外用维A酸。

You can use a topical retinoid if you just want to stick with creams.

你可以在晚上使用它。

So you can apply that at nighttime.

它通过加速细胞更新来起作用，使皮肤更光滑，减少细纹和皱纹，因为它能刺激胶原蛋白生成。

That works by increasing cell turnover so your skin will be smoother and there'll be less fine lines and wrinkles because it stimulates collagen production.

但你也可以使用不同的仪器。

But you can also use different machines.

你可以结合使用射频微针、CO2激光和CO2激光，深入皮肤的第二层——真皮层，以刺激自身胶原蛋白的生成。

You can do a combination of radiofrequency microneedling, CO2 and CO2 laser to actually get deep down into the second layer of the skin, into your dermis and stimulate your own collagen.

而且，正如我之前提到的PRP，还有一种使用多核苷酸的技术，称为填充剂，也能刺激胶原蛋白生成。

And again, like what I alluded to the PRP, and there's another technology using polynucleotides called fillers, which can also stimulate collagen.

好的。

Okay.

爱尔兰人的性格是否导致我们的皮肤更白皙？无论你是红发、金发还是其他发色，这会有影响吗？

Is there something about the Irish character where our skin is fairer and, you know, whether you're a redhead or a a blonde hair or or whatever, does that make a difference?

有些人更容易对阳光敏感吗？

Are some people more sensitive to sun?

当然有。

Oh, absolutely.

爱尔兰人大多数人的皮肤颜色属于菲茨帕特里克分型。

So Irish people, the majority of people, we use the Fitzpatrick grading of of skin coloring.

我们大多数人属于皮肤类型一和二，这意味着我们要么总是晒伤从不晒黑，要么先晒伤然后有时会变黑。

So the majority of us are skin type one and two, which means we either always burn and never tan or we burn first and then sometimes tan.

我们更容易长雀斑，而不是均匀地变黑，这使得我们患皮肤癌的风险更高。

And we have much more of a tendency to kind of freckle than get an overall even color, which just puts it at a much higher risk of developing skin cancer.

因此，在爱尔兰，我们真的应该经常做好防晒措施。

So we really should, in Ireland, protect ourselves against the sun on a regular basis.

让我们谈谈皮肤癌。

Let's talk about skin cancer.

每年诊断出一万一千例。

Eleven thousand cases diagnosed annually.

来自科克西南选区的菲诺·弗尔·TD克里斯托弗·奥沙利文呼吁禁止日光浴床，这一呼吁得到了卫生部副部长玛丽·巴特勒的支持。

There's been a call, by the pheno fall TD for Cork South West Christopher O'Sullivan, which has been supported by the junior health minister, Mary Butler, to have a ban on sunbeds.

你对此有何看法？

What do you think of that?

我完全同意。

I completely agree.

我的意思是，我们之前出台了公共卫生法案。

I mean, we had that public act, public health act came in.

现在已经过去十年了。

It's a decade now.

当时规定，未成年人不得使用日光浴床。

And at that time, it said that under eighteens should not be allowed to use a sunbed.

但不幸的是，这一点从未得到执行。

But, unfortunately, that's never been policed.

我亲眼见过。

I've seen it myself.

我看到过刚领过圣体的孩子在公共场所的晒床上接受日晒。

Children communion age being put on sunbeds in, you know, public establishments.

这太疯狂了。

It's crazy.

我们应该实行全面禁令。

We should just have a blanket ban.

澳大利亚在2016年实施了这项禁令，禁止所有商业性晒床。

The Australians introduced it in 2016, and no commercial sunbed is allowed.

让我们来实施高尚的

Let's have noble

苍白而苍白。

white and pasty.

还有假晒黑。

There's fake tan.

最好的晒黑就是假晒黑。

There's no there's the best tan is a fake tan.

假晒黑没有任何有害影响，对吧？

Take it out of the no harmful effects of fake fake tan, is there?

没有。

No.

我的意思是，多年前就已经修改了关于其中化学物质含量的规定，现在市场上已经没有假晒黑产品了。

I mean, they even changed the rules on that years ago for the amount of chemical in it, and there's no fake tans in the market.

我想那是最近几年的事。

That was I think that was in the last couple of years.

所以假晒黑是完全安全的。

So fake tans are completely safe.

有没有可以防晒的药片？或者这方面的研究吗？

Is there a tablet to protect against the sun, or is there any research into this?

有一些，但不幸的是，它们的价格较高。

There are some, but, unfortunately, they do come at a higher price point.

所以如果你每个月都服用这种补充剂，每月花费大约在40到50欧元之间。

So if you wanted to take that supplement every month, you'd be kinda looking at up to 40 to €50, per month.

所以它会

So it'd be

约翰问，有没有一种不油腻的保湿防晒组合产品，适合男性使用？

And John asks, can you get a combination product moisturizer and sun protection that isn't greasy that men can use?

有。

Yeah.

我们最推荐的是EltaMD。

Our go to favorite is EltaMD.

它基本上是一个美国防晒品牌，排名第一的U。

It's basically an American sunscreen brand, the number one U.

S。

S.

由皮肤科医生推荐的防晒霜。

Dermatologist prescribed sunscreen.

我们的男性患者非常喜欢它，因为它内置了保湿成分。

And our male patients absolutely love us because it has their moisturizer built into us.

它含有抗红血丝的B族维生素，因为许多爱尔兰人容易患有玫瑰痤疮和泛红，同时它还提供了全面的防晒功能。

It has an anti redness B vitamin in it because a lot of Irish people tend to suffer with rosacea and redness, and it has your full sunscreen in it.

涂抹后，它能在几秒钟内被完全吸收，不会在皮肤上留下黏腻、油腻或白色残留。

So you put it on, and it's absorbs literally within seconds, and it doesn't give that kind of tacky, greasy, white cast on the skin.

好的。

Okay.

太阳镜。

Sunglasses.

我们之前聊过眼睛以及眼周区域。

We spoke about eyes there and under your eyes and so on.

如果你戴太阳镜，是否能完全保护眼睛及眼周皮肤免受紫外线伤害？

If you wear sunglasses, are you fully protecting your eyes against and and those areas skin around your eyes from UV rays?

根据太阳镜的大小，你能知道的有限，但太阳镜上必须有紫外线防护滤镜。

Only what can you know, depending on the size of the sunglass, but it is important to have UV protective filter on your sunglasses.

因此，不要购买那种非常便宜、很可能没有这种防护功能的太阳镜，重要的是预防未来出现白内障。

So not to be buying really, really cheap ones that probably don't have that protection, but it is important to prevent against cataracts in the future.

所以，好的。

So Okay.

服用液态胶原蛋白有什么好处吗？

Is there any benefit in taking liquid collagen?

我每天晚上都会喝25毫升的海洋胶原蛋白。

I drink twenty five mils of marine collagen every night.

它像糖浆一样。

It's like syrup.

是的。

Yep.

有很多研究表明，海洋胶原蛋白非常有益，但必须达到一定剂量才行。

So there's lots of studies showing that marine collagen is really beneficial, but it has to be above a certain level.

大多数研究表明，水解胶原蛋白的摄入量应为五克或五千毫克及以上。

So the majority of studies would show five grams or five thousand milligrams and above of hydrolyzed collagen.

因此，确保是水解胶原蛋白非常重要，因为它已被分解，身体能更轻易地吸收。

So it's really important that it's hydrolyzed because it's broken down, which means the body can absorb it more readily.

好的。

Okay.

顺便提一下，关于皮肤癌这一话题，我们的政治记者肖恩·达夫伊在本周的《让我解释》播客中讨论了皮肤癌，该播客今早已上线，他探讨了爱尔兰是否应成为首个全面禁止使用日光浴床的欧洲国家。

Now, incidentally, for more on this whole topic of skin cancer, our political correspondent Sean Dafoe is discussing skin cancer on this week's Let Me Explain podcast, which is out this morning in which he's asking whether Ireland should become the first European country to fully ban the use of sun tanning beds.

请在Newstalk应用或您收听播客的平台收听。

So check it out on the Newstalk app or wherever you get your podcasts.

去听听吧。

Take a listen.

皮肤癌是爱尔兰最常见的癌症，每年有13,000例病例。

Skin cancer is the most common cancer cancer in Ireland with thirteen thousand cases every year.

其中九成是由紫外线辐射引起的，即来自日晒本身和日光浴床。

Nine out of ten of those are caused by UV radiation, so from sun exposure itself and from sunbeds.

近年来，我们看到爱尔兰的皮肤癌病例大幅增加，而且患者确诊年龄也越来越小，其中一个关键原因是日光浴床的使用增加。

And what we've seen in recent years is that there's been a dramatic rise in skin cancer in Ireland and also that people are being diagnosed at a younger age and one of the key reasons for that is the increased use of sunbeds.

好的，你可以收听完整的播客。

Okay, you can get that full podcast.

让我解释。

Let me explain.

请访问网站收听。

Check it out on the website.

总之，妮基，如果你要去阳光充足的度假地——不像我这样去爱尔兰西部，那里天天下雨——对于皮肤防护，你有什么关键建议吗？

So in conclusion, Nikki, if you're going on a sun holiday, you know, where where unlike if you're going to the West Of Ireland like me where it'll rain every day, what are the key bits of advice for people in terms of extra protection for their skin?

最便宜也最好的防护方式是穿着合适的衣物。

So the cheapest and best protection is a style of clothing.

防晒霜应该是你最后才考虑的东西，因为它最贵，也最难使用，因为你必须反复涂抹，而且有时候会有点 messy（ messy 可译为‘ messy’或‘脏乱’，但中文语境下更自然的说法是‘ messy’或‘弄脏’，此处意译为‘麻烦’）。

Sunscreen should be the last thing that you actually think about because it's the most expensive, and it's the hardest thing to use because you have to reapply it, and it's, you know, sometimes a bit messy.

所以，穿合适的衣物，并且避免在正午前后三小时内躺在泳池边。

So a style of clothing and not trying to lie at the edge of the pool, particularly the three hours either side of solar noon.

所以如果你想在阳光下活动，尽量在清晨或傍晚五点后紫外线大幅降低时外出。

So if you want to be out in the sun, go out very early or later in the evening when the UV has really dropped after five p.

嗯。

M.

在傍晚享受夕阳。

In the evening and enjoy the evening sun.

但一定要穿戴遮阳帽、太阳镜和合适的衣物，尤其是对小孩子，一定要让他们待在阴凉处。

But definitely to cover up a hat, sunglasses, style of clothing, and, definitely for small kids, keep them in the shade.

多穿几层衣服，因为不建议给小婴儿使用防晒霜，因为他们的皮肤更敏感、更薄。

So layers of clothes because you're not really supposed to, for small babies, put sunscreen on them because their skin is much more sensitive and thinner.

感谢尼基·拉尔夫教授、爱尔兰皮肤病研究所的皮肤科顾问，提供了这些重要的公共卫生和抗衰老建议。

My thanks to Professor Nikki Ralph, consultant dermatologist with the Institute of Dermatologists for all that important public health as well as antiaging advice.

《帕特·肯尼秀》。

The Pat Kenny show.

由阿维瓦保险赞助。

With Aviva Insurance.

在Newstalk电台。

On Newstalk.