S2 E15: Excerpts From Greg Noll: Art of the Surfboard

你好，欢迎回到《冲浪者图书馆》。

Hello, and welcome back to The Surfer's Library.

我是比利·杰克，带你翻阅冲浪历史、文化和传奇故事。

I'm Billy Jack, your guide through the pages of surf history, culture, and legends.

今天，我要朗读德鲁·坎皮恩的精彩著作《格雷格·诺尔：冲浪板的艺术》中的四个故事。

Today, I'm gonna be reading four stories from Drew Kampion's incredible book, Greg Noll, The Art of the Surfboard.

这些故事分别是《格雷格·诺尔的“大猫”型号》、《我、米基和“大猫”》、《两只猫的故事》和《模仿猫》。

Those stories are The Greg Noll Da Cat Model, Me, Miki, and Da Cat, A Tale of Two Cats, and The Copy Cat.

这本书里有很多精彩内容，但我特别想分享的是格雷格·诺尔与米基·多拉之间的故事，以及他们合作打造的传奇且备受追捧的“大猫”冲浪板型号。

Now there's a lot of great stuff in this book, but I really just wanted to share these stories about Greg Noll's relationship with Miki Dora and their collaboration on the legendary and highly sought after Da Cat surfboard models.

这款冲浪板是许多收藏家梦寐以求的。

This is a board that a lot of collectors dream about owning.

如果能拥有一块，我就心满意足了，但考虑到它们如此稀有，恐怕永远也轮不到我。

I would be happy just being a bright one, but seeing as that they are so hard to come by, it's probably not ever gonna happen.

总之，这些故事的作者德鲁·坎皮恩，你之前应该听过他的名字。

Anyways, the author of these stories, Drew Kampion, you've heard his name before.

他从第一天起就是我们播客的朋友，所以请花点时间去访问他的网站 drewcampion.com。

He has been a friend of the podcast since day one, so please take the time to go out and visit his website, drewcampion.com.

如果你一直在读冲浪相关的书，你一定知道他的名字。

If you've been reading about surfing, you know his name.

你肯定见过他的书。

You've seen his books.

他是个很棒的人，所以请给他一些支持。

He is a great guy, so show him some love.

提醒一下，如果你想支持这个播客，可以去 buymeacoffee.com/thesurferslibrary 捐款。

Just a reminder that if you would like to help support the podcast, you can do so by visiting buymeacoffee.com/thesurferslibrary to do so.

这能帮我支付播客平台的费用。

It helps cover the cost of the podcasting platform fees I gotta pay.

这是我目前能发布这个播客的唯一方式，所以任何一点帮助都很重要。

It's the only way I can get this podcast out currently, so any little bit helps.

好了，希望你们喜欢这些故事。

With that, I hope you enjoy the stories.

我们划出去吧。

Let's paddle out.

格雷格·诺尔的“大猫”型号。

The Greg Noll Da Cat Model.

有时候，冲浪板的艺术就是交易的艺术，一个猫和牛的故事。

Sometimes the art of the surfboard is the art of the deal, a cat and bull story.

在所有人中，多拉选择了诺尔，这可不是小事。

Out of everyone, Dora chose Noll, and that was a big deal.

米基·达卡特·多拉是冲浪界最臭名昭著的叛逆偶像，一个在马里布完美海浪中长大的孩子，朋友不多，后来看着《吉吉特》之后涌入的人群把那里变成了混乱的场面。

Miki Dacat Dora was surfing's most notorious rebel icon, a kid who grew up surfing the perfect waves of Malibu with few friends, then watched the invasion of the post Gidget hordes turn the place into a mob scene.

他非常生气，在1967年夏天，他当众脱下裤子，对着他鄙视的比赛评委亮出屁股，然后彻底离开了那个圈子。

He was pissed off, famously bailing on the whole scene with a drop of his trunks in the summer of nineteen sixty seven, mooning the contest judges in a system he deplored.

但在逃离小镇和国家之前，他和格雷格·诺尔联手打造了冲浪史上最成功的营销项目，就是米基·多拉签名款冲浪板“大猫”，这款冲浪板在1966年风靡市场。

But before he fled town and the country, he and Greg Noll conspired to create surfing's most successful marketing program ever around Miki Dora signature model surfboard known as Da Cat, which hit the market by storm in 1966.

这是冲浪史上奇怪的一章。

It was a strange chapter in surfing history.

这两个传奇人物因为共同的冲浪务实精神走到了一起，两人都对外界的控制非常敏感。

These two immense icons drawn together by their very surfer pragmatism, both sensitive to any outside control.

谈判过程极其复杂。

The negotiations were Byzantine.

冲浪板的研发充满了各种暗中的较量，而产品的销量超过了冲浪史上任何其他型号。

The development of the surfboard was fraught with intrigue, and the product sales exceeded that of any other model in surfing history.

在六十年代的四年的生产期间，Da Cat 型号经历了一些改动，其中一款尖尾版本获得了一定的流行度。

Da Cat Model saw some modification during its four year run-in the nineteen sixties, with a pintailed version achieving some popularity.

但是当格雷格在七十年代初收摊北迁时，这款冲浪板就从零售市场上消失了。

But the board vanished from the retail universe when Greg folded up his tent and moved north in the early seventies.

到了八十年代末和九十年代，潮流转向，怀旧热潮兴起，对经典冲浪板复刻的需求日益增长，尤其是对 Da Cat 的需求，这让这对既是朋友又是对手的两人在九十年代重新走到了一起。

The turning of the tide in the late eighties and nineties swept the two friends and adversaries back together again in the nineteen nineties when a hot trade in nostalgia created mounting demand for recreations of classic surfboards, especially for Da Cat.

1992年，在劳拉·诺尔的斡旋下，这对终身朋友达成了一项协议，劳拉拥有极强的化解矛盾的能力，于是由两人签名的限量版 Da Cat 开始生产，共250块，在格雷格位于新月城的棚屋里制作。

In 1992, a deal was brokered between the lifelong friends by Laura Noll, who has immense powers of depolarization, and a limited edition of two fifty Da Cat signed by both men began in production out in Greg's Crescent City shed.

此外，他们还达成协议，制作50块硬木版的 Da Cat 复刻板。

Additionally, an agreement was made to make 50 hardwood Da Cat recreations.

按照这些合同，还有几块板子要做。

A few more boards remain to be built within the terms of these contracts.

可惜米基没能活着看到全部完成。

Pity Miki didn't live to see the full run.

我、米基，还有大猫。

Me, Miki, and Da Cat.

多年来，我被问得最多的问题是，米基·多拉是个什么样的人？

Over the years, the question I've been most frequently asked is, what was Miki Dora like as a person?

和他一起做他的板子大猫，又是什么感觉？

And what was it like to work with him on his board, Da Cat?

多拉和我从小就认识，我们第一次见面是在圣塔诺弗里，那时候我们才十岁或十二岁。

Dora and I go back to when we were 10 or 12 year old kids and met for the first time at Santa Nofri.

这些年来，我们的路总是交叉，一起在加州和夏威夷几乎每个地方冲浪。

Over the years, our paths crisscrossed as we surfed together at just about every spot in California and Hawaii.

我们相处的方式有点像两只狗，互相绕着圈，对着对方咆哮。

The way we got along was a little like two dogs circling and growling at each other.

我们之间有着很好的默契。

We had a good understanding with each other.

我不偷他的东西，他也不偷我的，但我总是提防着他。

I didn't steal from him, and he didn't steal from me, but I always kept an eye on him.

除此之外，其他事情基本上都是公平竞争。

Aside from that, everything else was more or less fair game.

我知道我能把他逼到什么程度，他也知道我的底线。

I knew about how far I could push him and vice versa.

有一天，就在要离开浪之前，米基告诉我，除了冲浪之外，他最自豪的成就之一就是他这辈子一天班都没上过，而且他从未出卖自己。

One day, just before kicking out, Miki told me that one of his proudest achievements besides surfing was that he never worked a day in his life and that he never sold out.

然后他马上补充说，除了我们一起做的那块板，稍微有点例外。

And then he quickly added, except a little bit on the board we made together.

虽然他说完笑了笑，但我知道，在大海里冲浪是他生命中唯一纯粹的东西，他完全尊重它，从不试图欺骗或利用它。

Although he chuckled after he said that, I know that surfing in the ocean was the one pure thing in his life that he totally respected and never tried to scam or take advantage of.

那就像和一个他深爱的美丽女人跳一辈子的舞，他知道那太好了，不能搞砸。

It was like a lifelong dance with a beautiful woman that he cared deeply for, and he knew it was too good of a thing to fuck up.

在我看来，米基其实很努力。

The way I see it, Miki worked hard.

他努力的方向就是不上班，尽量多冲浪。

What he worked at was not having a job and surfing as much as possible.

我就不细说他怎么不工作也能过活了，但相信我，他有些骗术简直堪称天才。

I won't go into the many ways he was able to get by without working, but trust me, there were some classic scams that bordered on genius.

米基喜欢用来搞钱支持冲浪爱好的一个骗术就是卖冲浪板。

One of the scams Miki loved to pull to get enough money to support his surfing habit was selling surfboards.

因为大家都觉得他是世界上冲浪风格最好的选手之一，从圣地亚哥到圣巴巴拉，几乎每个做冲浪板的人都抢着送他板子，就希望他能用上自己的板子。

Because he was considered to have just about the best style of any surfer in the world, almost every board builder from San Diego to Santa Barbara was falling over themselves trying to give him a board to ride in hopes they could make a convert out of him.

还有什么比让米基骑着自己的板子更好的事呢？

What better thing than to have Miki riding one of your boards?

米基看到好处就抓住不放。

Miki knew a good thing when he saw it.

他会用一块板子几天或者一个星期，然后把它卖掉。

He'd ride a board for a few days or a week and then sell it.

而且因为这块板是米基用过的，他卖了个好价钱。

And because it had been ridden by Miki, he got top dollar for it.

然后他又回到那个人那里，说板被偷了，或者他奶奶需要做手术，或者随便编个理由。

Then he'd go back to the same guy, tell him the board was stolen or his grandmother needed an operation or whatever.

只要能再弄到一块板就行。

Anything to get another board.

等骗了两三块板之后，那人就明白了，多拉就消失了，转去下一个制造商那里。

After two or three boards, the guy would figure it out, and Dora would vanish, moving on to the next manufacturer.

最后，他一路混到了圣巴巴拉，结果他居然对圣巴巴拉最顶尖的制板师雷诺兹·耶特也用了同样的骗术，真是服了。

Finally, he worked his way up to Santa Barbara, and I'll be damned if he didn't pull the same scam on Santa Barbara's number one shaper, Reynolds Yeater.

也许雷尼觉得米基不会骗他，因为他以为多拉是他的朋友。

Maybe Renny thought Miki wouldn't screw him because he thought Dora was his friend.

但米基又一次拿走了耶特给他做的板，骑了一阵子，然后卖掉了。

But once again, Miki took the board Yater made him, wrote it for a while, and sold it.

显然，耶特一直没原谅米基背叛他，四十多年后还在念叨这事。

Apparently, Yater never forgave Miki for turning on him and still talks about it today more than forty years later.

天哪，那都快半个世纪了。

Man, that's almost a half a century.

我可能不该掺和进来。

I probably shouldn't get involved.

我尊重Theater，也把他当朋友。

I respect Theater and consider him a friend.

我甚至用他的名字给我一个儿子取了名。

I even named one of my sons after him.

但Miki已经不在了，没法回应那些关于Da Cat的胡说八道，也没有别人替他说话。

But Miki's not around to answer the BS that's been printed about Da Cat, and there's nobody else to stick up for him.

所以，虽然很不情愿，我想这活儿得我来干。

Therefore, with great reluctance, I guess the job goes to me.

这些年来，我从各个板匠那儿听够了各种说法，他们还在试图揪Da Cat的尾巴，把Miki的成就归功于自己。

Over the years, I've heard it all from various board builders, still trying to twist Da Cat's tail and take the credit for Miki's accomplishments.

什么没有他们给Miki做的板，Da Cat就不会成为最畅销的板之一，或者谁谁谁第一个做了阶梯板、勺形板之类的。

How without the board they made for Miki, Da Cat would have never become one of the top selling boards, or how so and so had the first step deck or spoon deck or whatever.

当然，如果那些人不是自欺欺人的话，他们就得承认第一块勺子板是鲍勃·西蒙斯在1948年左右做的。

Of course, if those people weren't living in denial, they would have to admit the first spoon deck was shaped by Bob Simmons in about 1948.

我11岁的时候，写过一块板子，是乔·奎格给我做的。

When I was 11 years old, I wrote a board that Joe Quigg shaped for me.

那个板子有个勺子形的鼻头。

It had a spoon nose.

我听过最好的故事之一是，多拉特别喜欢我的板子，比他的猫板还喜欢，甚至想把它买回去。

One of the best stories I heard was, Dora liked my board so much better than his cat board that he tried to buy it back.

第一，如果米基那么喜欢那块板子，他当初为什么要卖掉呢？

Well, number one, if Miki liked the board so much, why would he have sold it in the first place?

第二，多拉这辈子从来没为板子付过钱。

Number two, Dora never paid for a board in his life.

这全都是那些想蹭猫的成功或者想跟米基·多拉算四十年前旧账的人酸葡萄心理。

It's all a bunch of sour grapes from people trying to pile on to Cat's success or get even with Miki Dora forty years later.

这些抱怨的人应该放下这些，让猫安息吧。

These grumblers should get over it and let Da Cat rest in peace.

我曾经批评米奇从这些制板师那里拿板，他冷冷地回了一句，我不欠他们任何人的。

I once criticized Mickey for taking boards from these builders, and he replied coldly, I don't owe those guys anything.

我不是任何人的傀儡。

I'm nobody's puppet.

我从没跟他们签过合同。

I never signed any contract with them.

有一天，我正在赫莫萨海滩的店里工作，米基走了进来。

So I'm working at my Hermosa Beach shop one day, and in walks Miki.

我立刻紧张得不行。

My butt immediately begins to pucker.

我们聊了几句，然后他说，我有个主意。

We talk a little, then he says, I have an idea.

你觉得做一块米基·多拉板怎么样？

What do you think about building a Miki Dora board?

那一刻，我紧张到了极点。

At that point, my butt goes to full pucker mode.

对，我讽刺地回了一句。

Yeah, I replied sarcastically.

我们可以叫它“大猫”。

We could call it Da Cat.

总之，我们又聊了一会儿，但我满脑子想的都是他这些年坑过多少人，而我可能就是下一个。

Anyway, we talk a little more, but all I can think about is all the guys he's porked over the years and how I'm gonna be the next.

然后我想起了之前那次对话。

And then I remember that earlier conversation.

我不欠那些人任何东西。

I don't owe those guys anything.

我从来没签过什么合同。

I never signed any contract.

所以我打断他，告诉他，除非我们有一份完整的、有法律约束力的书面协议，否则他别想从我这儿免费拿到一块板。

So I interrupt him and tell him he's never getting a free board out of me unless we have a full blown binding agreement on paper.

让我完全没想到的是，他说，行。

To my complete surprise, he says, okay.

没问题。

No problem.

他只有一个要求。

He only had one request.

等我们设计完那块板子，它必须跟以前任何一块板子都完全不同。

When we were done designing the board, it had to be completely different from any other board ever made.

我同意了。

I agreed.

所以签完协议之后，我们从头开始。

So after signing the agreement, we started from scratch.

我们只确定了两件事。

We were only sure of two things.

第一，板子必须按米基想要的方式来骑。

Number one, the board had to ride the way Miki wanted.

第二，它的外观必须像多拉的性格一样与众不同。

And number two, it had to be as different in appearance as Dora's personality.

我们开始从我其他的板子里调整模板，想弄出一个干净的轮廓。

We started tweaking templates from some of my other boards to get a clean outline.

经过很多讨论、比划和理论推演，我做出了第一块Da Cat。

After much discussion, arm waving, and theorizing, I shaped the first Da Cat.

他第一反应是，还不够特别。

His initial reaction, it wasn't different enough.

他问能不能降低板头重心。

He asked about lowering the center of gravity in the nose.

我告诉他，我可不想一堆薄板头断成两半。

I told him I didn't want a bunch of thin nose boards breaking in half.

又是挠头苦想。

More head scratching.

然后我们决定把板头做成勺形，但用了完全不同的手法，以前没人这么干过。

Then we decided to scoop the nose, but with a totally different twist than anything done before.

我们从离板边大约一英寸半的地方开始做勺形，然后向板中心逐渐降低。

We started the scoop about an inch and a half in from the rail, dropping it off towards the center of the board.

这个设计沿着板面延伸成一个V形，结果形成了好几个复合曲线。

This ran down the deck into a V shape, which resulted in several compound curves.

一旦上了玻璃钢，我就知道这会给板子带来急需的强度，防止板头断裂。

Once glassed, I knew this would give the much needed strength to help keep the nose from snapping off.

这块板子和以前做过的任何板子都完全不同。

The board was so different from anything ever shaped before.

它看起来像一艘宇宙飞船。

It looked like a spaceship.

Miki像个小孩一样跳来跳去。

Miki was dancing around like a little kid.

我从来没见过他那么兴奋，之后也没有。

I'd never seen him that excited before or since.

那天晚上，我们用铅笔画了一个看起来有点奇怪的尾鳍，但放在那块奇怪的新板上却显得很合适。

That night, we penciled out a goofy looking fin that somehow looked perfect on the strange new board.

我们给它上了玻璃钢。

We glassed it.

他写下了这个设计。

He wrote it.

然后我们又做了一块板，在板缘厚度、轮廓模板和整体弧度上做了更多改动。

Then we made another board incorporating more changes in rail thickness, outline templates, and overall rocker.

之后，又做了一块板，做了一些小调整。

And after that, one more board with a few more small changes.

他对最终那块板的性能非常满意。

He was totally stoked with the way the final board rode.

多年来，我们还做了其他一些改动，比如燕尾尾鳍、稳定尾槽、可拆卸尾鳍。

Over the years, we made several other changes, a pintail, stabilizer tail channels, a removable fin.

在接下来的五年里，我们不断微调，Da Cat 也在不断进化。

We made subtle changes for the next five years as Da Cat evolved.

Da Cat 是有史以来最成功的冲浪板之一。

Da Cat was one of the most successful surfboards of all time.

1992年，我们签了新协议，准备推出限量版。

In 1992, we signed a new agreement to do a limited edition.

和原版一样，这些板子都是Miki亲自签名的。

Like the originals, the boards were signed individually by Miki.

这一批比我们六十年代做的那些板子还要成功。

This run was even more successful than the boards we made back in the sixties.

我不知道为什么Miki会决定让我来做他的板子。

I don't know why Miki decided to have me make his board.

也许是因为我们经常一起冲浪，或者是因为我们认识很久了。

Maybe it was all the time we spent surfing together or because we had known each other for so long.

也可能是因为他把海岸上其他做板的人都得罪光了，就剩我一个了。

It could also be that he burned every other board builder on the coast, and I was the only one left.

说到底，我们之间有着一段长达三十五年的良好合作关系。

The bottom line is we had a good functioning business relationship that spanned over thirty five years.

现在又过了好多年，我回头看看我和Da Cat，也就是他本人的这段交情。

Now it's more years later, and I'm looking back at my relationship with Da Cat, the man himself.

我得说，他是我认识的人里最有意思也最让人头疼的一个。

And I have to say that he was one of the most interesting and challenging people I've ever known.

我没有一天不想他。

There's not a day that goes by that I don't think about him.

毫无疑问，在很多方面，米基都是个天才，尤其是在冲浪方面。

There's no doubt that in many ways, Miki was a genius, certainly in surfing.

他在日常生活中遇到的困难是，他看待事物的角度确实和普通人不一样。

The difficulty he had in everyday life was that he truly saw things from a different perspective than the average person.

因此，他面对生活中的许多挑战时，反应方式让很多人无法理解。

Consequently, he reacted to many of life's challenges in ways many people just couldn't understand.

在他生命的最后阶段，他来到我们家。

Toward the end of his run, he came up to our house.

当时我不知道，但他已经中了那颗银弹。

I didn't know it at the time, but he had taken a direct hit from the silver bullet.

他得了癌症，但当时感觉还好。

He had the cancer, but he was still feeling alright.

我们一起钓鱼、徒步，就是随便待着。

We went fishing, hiked, and just hung out.

我们笑着聊起这些年干过的那些蠢事。

We laughed and giggled about some of the dumb shit we'd done over the years.

最后，所有的猜疑、争吵和偏执终于都放下了。

In the end, all the suspicion, arguing, and paranoia was finally set aside.

有意思。

Funny.

我们花了整整五十五年才放下那些包袱，真正做回朋友。

It took us a mere fifty five years to get rid of the baggage and just be friends.

他走后不久，我每周都会给他打个电话。

Not long after his visit, I made a weekly call to him.

他越来越虚弱，正在为最后的告别做准备。

He was getting weaker, getting ready for the final kick out.

我记得问他感觉怎么样。

I remember asking him how he was doing.

他回答说，他们刚给他灌了一次大剂量的灌肠，还打了一针吗啡。

His reply was that they had just given him a big enema and a shot of morphine.

他说，等我们聊完，他正认真考虑去画一幅壁画。

He said as soon as we finished talking, he was seriously considering doing a wall painting.

我说，好的。

I said, okay.

我也不知道为什么，那句话就这么脱口而出了。

And I don't know why, but it just popped out of my mouth.

保重，米基。

Take care, Miki.

我爱你，兄弟。

I love you, man.

他沉默了一下。

There was a hesitation.

然后他说，我也爱你，哥们。

Then he said, I love you too, pal.

第二天一早，他就去世了。

He died early the next morning.

两只猫的故事。

A Tale of Two Cats.

Greg Noll 收藏家 Mark Regale 讲述了一个关于冲浪板注定要重逢的不可思议的故事。

Greg Noll collector, Mark Regale recounts an improbable tale of surfboards destined to be united.

在纽约长岛，十月是季节交替的时节。

On Long Island, New York, the month of October is a time of seasonal transition.

秋老虎最后的温柔喘息，在一场注定失败的战斗中挣扎。

Indian summer's gentle last gasps are fought on a no win battleground.

即将到来的严冬，其残酷无情是不可避免的。

The raw and insurmountable brutality of the coming cold winter season is inevitable.

尽管天气如此，15岁的我，还没有驾照，就徒步走到当地的冲浪店，掏出我攒下的钱——这些钱是我卖掉心爱的 Dewey Weber Performer 冲浪板换来的——然后拿走了那块崭新的 Greg Noll、Miki Dora、Da Cat 冲浪板。

Undaunted by this climatic certainty at age 15, and therefore without a driver's license, I hoofed it to the local surf shop, threw down my jack, I'd amassed the requisite loot by selling off a coveted Dewey Weber performer surfboard, and grabbed my slick new Greg Noll, Miki Dora, Da Cat surfboard.

我顶着刺骨的寒风，在接近冰点的温度下，走完了回家的路。

I walked those homeward miles against formidable headwinds and temperatures at the freezing level.

我穿着一件厚重的冬季牧场主外套，而那块冲浪板太宽了，除非我光着手，否则没法舒服地夹在胳膊下。

I was wearing a heavy winter rancher's coat, and the surfboard was too wide to be comfortably carried under my arm unless I did it bare handed.

真是难忘。

Memorable.

把板子带回家后，我整个晚上都在取暖，同时欣赏这块新冲浪板，欣赏它那些全新的曲线、板型和细节。

Once I got the board home, I spent the rest of the evening warming up and admiring the new surfboard, admiring all the newfound curves, the foil, the features.

可惜，我和这只猫的恋情很短暂。

Alas, my love affair with the cat was short lived.

说实话，我克服不了这块十英尺长冲浪板带来的心理和身体上的障碍。

In truth, I was unable to overcome the psychological and physical barriers of the surfboard's 10 foot length.

我以前用的板子都在九英尺八左右。

My previous boards had all been in the nine eight range.

那是在一九六六到六七年的冬天。

It was in the winter of nineteen sixty six, sixty seven.

我在本地分类广告里登了个广告，几天后，来了一些从没冲过浪的人。

I ran an ad in the local classifieds, and days later, some guys showed up who had never surfed.

总之，这个潜在买家远远不符合多拉在和诺尔合作广告里那么认真强调的合格标准。

In short, the prospective buyer fell far short of the qualified profile Dora had so diligently ranted about in his ad campaign with Noll.

不过，那个买家随便看了看冲浪板，就掏出一沓现金，二话不说把钱付给了我。

Nonetheless, the buyer briefly checked out the surfboard, whipped out a wad of cash, and paid me for the surfboard, no questions asked.

我心里一阵难受，帮他把“大猫”从一辆崭新的庞蒂亚克GTO的后窗装了进去。

With a sick feeling in my gut, I helped him load Da Cat through the back window of a shiny new Pontiac GTO.

握了个手，冲浪板就这么没了，不管是字面上还是比喻上，都消失在了渐暗的夕阳里。

A handshake and the surfboard was gone, literally and figuratively into the fading sunset.

我马上开始琢磨，我是不是做错了？

Immediately, I began to wonder, had I made a mistake?

一年多以后，冲浪板的设计理念彻底变了，长板让位给了短板，冲浪板的结构也发生了翻天覆地的变化。

A year and changed later, surfboard design paradigms forever shifted, and longboards gave way to shortboards, causing sweeping changes in the surfboard architecture.

但我想，我对过去的日子有着深深的眷恋，于是我开始认真收藏老式冲浪板。

But I had a deep seated appreciation for the old days, I suppose, and I began collecting old surfboards in earnest.

随着收藏越来越多，这些年我常常想起那溜走的“大猫”。

And as the collection expanded over the years, I often reflected about the Da Cat that got away.

然后，在九十年代中期，一个毫不知情的冲浪者把他的车开到了纽约的一家车身修理店，离我以前住的地方不远。

Then sometime during the mid nineties, an unsuspecting surfer took his car to a body shop in New York, not far from where I once lived.

在那里，那个冲浪者注意到车间上方挂着一块旧冲浪板，上面落满了灰尘。

There, the surfer noticed an old surfboard draped in veils of dust hanging above the workshop.

他问店主关于这块冲浪板的事，店主告诉他，几十年前，一位顾客把它留在这里作为抵押，直到付清账单余额，但他显然没有付。

He asked the proprietor about the surfboard and was told that decades earlier, a customer had left it behind as a security till he paid the balance of his bill, which he apparently didn't.

然后店主告诉那个冲浪者，如果他想要，可以拿走，他就拿走了。

Then the shop owner told the surfer that if he wanted it, he could take it, which he did.

不久之后，我在答录机上发现了一条留言。

Shortly thereafter, I discovered a message on my answering machine.

留言来自我的老朋友、前雇主，东海岸冲浪传奇人物查理·邦克。

It was from my old friend and past employer, East Coast surfing legend, Charlie Bunker.

查理不是那种随便打电话的人，所以我立刻给他回了电话。

Charlie wasn't one to frivolously utilize the telephone, so I called him right away.

CB告诉我，有人刚从店里买走了诺尔的一块“大猫”冲浪板。

CB told me that some guy had just bought one of Noll's Da Cat boards by the store.

他想买下来，但那个人不感兴趣。

He tried to buy it, but the guy wasn't interested.

他跟我描述那块板子的尺寸、颜色、规格和磕碰痕迹时，我渐渐意识到那正是我的旧Da Cat。

As he described the board to me, size, color, dimensions, and dings, it became apparent that it was my old Da Cat.

我设法联系上了那个冲浪者，谈成了一笔交易，很快那块板子就回到了我在夏威夷的手中。

I was able to contact the surfer and negotiate a deal that soon landed the board back with me in Hawaii.

就在这件事发生前不久，我本来以为再也见不到那块旧Da Cat了，所以已经跟格雷格和劳拉·诺尔约好，要买一块九十年代限量系列的新Da Cat板。

Not so long before this, never expecting to see that old Da Cat again, I had contracted with Greg and Laura Noll to secure one of the new Da Cat boards from the nineteen nineties limited edition series.

我订的那块板子复刻了原版，只是没有当年很多Da Cat主人会加的爪印。

I ordered one that replicated the original, except for the paw prints that many Da Cat owners added back in the day.

那块板子长10英尺，是250块复刻系列中唯一一块这个长度的。

At 10 feet, it was the only board in the 250 reissued series made that length.

两块冲浪板在几周内先后到手。

I received both surfboards within weeks of each other.

如今，这对Da Cat板就挂在夏威夷瓦胡岛北岸哈雷瓦的强流冲浪店里展示。

Today, the matching Da Cat's hang on display in the strong current surf shop in Haleiwa on the North Shore Of Oahu, Hawaii.

《复制猫》、《Da Cat窃贼的离奇故事》、《多拉是怎么变成多拉的》，以及《冲浪板如何被视为艺术》。

The Copy Cat, The Improbable Tale of Da Cat Burglar, How Dora Got Dora ed, and How Surfboards Were Regarded as Art.

1995年，冲浪板作为艺术品达到了新的地位。当时，加州文图拉一个叫里克·法罗的人，在卡诺加公园的一间车库里被便衣警察逮捕，当场抓到他正在实施他涉嫌的罪行。

The Surfboard reached new status as artwork in 1995, when a Ventura, California man named Rick Farrow was arrested by undercover officers in a Canoga Park garage, caught in the act of the very crime he was suspected of perpetrating.

这就是“抄袭猫”案。

This was The Case of The Copy Cat.

格雷格·诺尔回忆说：“这家伙开始做‘大猫’冲浪板。”

This guy started making Da Cat's, Greg Noll recalls.

他做了五块，然后卖给了别人。

He made five of them and sold them to people.

那些都是仿冒品。

They were knockoffs.

我接到一个电话，有人说：‘格雷格，你最好下来看看这个。’

I got a call, someone said, you'd better come down and look at this, Greg.

看起来不对劲。

It doesn't look right.

我进去看了看那块板，非常非常接近。

And I went in, looked at this board, very goddamn close.

但他犯了一些错误，你知道的。

But he made a few mistakes, you know.

我从来没做过23英寸的猫板。

I never made a 23 inch cat ever.

这些是23英寸的，而我的是22.5英寸。

These things were 23 inches, and mine were 22 and a half.

格雷格继续说。

Greg continues.

问题是，这家伙把板子卖给了一个警察，那个警察就打电话给洛杉矶的欺诈小组的同事。

The thing of it was, the guy sells this board to a cop, and the cop calls his buddies in the fraud squad in LA.

这些人做的是艺术品欺诈，这是重罪，非常严重。

These guys did artwork fraud, which is a felony, very serious.

而这些家伙恰好是冲浪爱好者，所以他们策划了一场卧底行动。

And these guys happen to be surfers, and so they put together an undercover sting operation.

他们身上装了窃听器，在小巷两端停好车，然后进去了。

They got wired, parked at both ends of the alley, and went in.

他们是冲浪爱好者，接到这个任务特别兴奋，就等着抓这家伙。

They were surfers, and they were so stoked to get this assignment and get this guy's ass.

这家伙会在高速桥下跟客户见面卖板子，劳拉·诺尔回忆说。

The guy would meet his customers under the freeway to sell the boards, Laura Noll recalls.

这些冲浪警察设了个假交易，然后跟踪他到了他住的地方。

Well, these surfer cops set up a fake buy, and they followed him to where he lived.

他们拍到他买丙酮、树脂这些东西的照片。

And they took photographs of him buying acetone and resin and all of this stuff.

他们就这么把案子给做成了，格雷格补充道。

I mean, they built a case on this guy, Greg adds.

那家伙在里面，卧底冲浪警察就说，听说你有二手板子。

So the guy's in there, and the undercover surf cop goes, I heard you have used boards.

我想要一块猫板。

I want a cat.

我做梦都想要一块，想了一辈子了。

I've dreamt about one all my life.

然后那个人说，嗯，我没有更多的猫了，但我可以卖给你这个或者那个。

And the guy goes, well, I don't have any more cats, but I can sell you one of these or one of these.

然后那个冲浪警察说，不。

And the surf cop goes, no.

抱歉。

Sorry.

我就想要一只猫。

I got my mind set on a cat.

然后那个人说，你知道吗，我爸有一只猫，他可能会卖。

And the guy goes, you know, my dad's got a cat, and he might sell it.

所以那个冲浪警察就付了定金，下了订单，把整个交易都搞定了。

So the surf cop hands over a down payment on the goddamn thing and takes the order and finalizes the whole transaction.

然后警察从巷子两边冲进来，这家伙人还不错，还没反应过来。

And then the cops come in from both sides of the alley, and this guy's kind of a nice guy and not getting it yet.

所以他走到店门口，说，对不起，各位。

So goes out in front of his shop going, I'm sorry, guys.

你不能把车停在这里。

You can't park here.

警察说，兄弟，我觉得你没搞清楚状况。

And the cop says, man, I don't think you understand.

你完蛋了。

Your ass is grass.

你因为制作假冒冲浪板被捕了。

You're under arrest for making fraudulent surfboards.

于是他们把这个可怜的家伙带走了。

So they took this poor guy in.

他们给他登记了全套手续。

They booked his ass the whole nine yards.

结果发现，如果这家伙之前还有两项重罪，他可能会因为做这些板子而坐一辈子牢。

Turned out that if the guy had two other felonies against him, he could have done life for making these boards.

他们问我是否想起诉他，我说，兄弟，如果我是他这个年纪，是个年轻人，我可能也会做同样的事。

They asked me if I wanted to prosecute him, and I said, man, if I was his age and I was a young guy, I probably would have been doing the same thing.

所以他们让他赔偿那些买了板子的人，然后我把板子拿回来了。

So they made him pay restitution to the people who bought them, and I got the boards back.

《泰晤士报》上有一整版文章，讲的就是这个“抄袭猫”的故事。

And there's a full page article in The Times telling the story of The Copy Cat.

正版“大猫”和仿冒品之间有一些细微差别，但你得懂行才能分辨出来。

There are subtle differences between an authentic Da Cat and a copycat, but you gotta know your stuff to tell them apart.

至于怎么处理他的那些仿冒板，格雷格的想法一向很有创意。

As for what to do with his knockoff cats, Greg is typically creative.

我本来想带一块去参加一个大型活动，比如亨廷顿海滩星光大道庆典，那里人山人海。

I was thinking of taking one to a big function, like the Huntington Beach Walk of Fame celebration where there are huge crowds of people.

我打算弄一台压路机，让“管子牛排”特里·特雷西，也就是马里布卡胡纳，来操作，把这块假板子压得跟纸一样薄，然后让大家上去拿一块仿冒品回家当纪念品。

And I was gonna get a steamroller and put tube steak, Terry Tracy, the Malibu Kahuna, at the controls and have him roll over this fake cat and squash the thing paper thin, and then let people go out and take a piece of the copycat home for a souvenir.

有人竟然敢骗“大猫”，这真是讽刺，而且因果报应，挺符合的。

It's ironic and karmically consistent that someone would scam Da Cat.

这种行为简直太像多拉自己的风格了。

Such an act smacks so much of Dora's own style.

事实上，如果最后发现是Miki雇了Farrow来做那些仿冒品，有人会感到意外吗？

In fact, would it surprise anyone if it turned out that Miki had hired Farrow to make those copycats?

从Greg的角度来看，这个故事在几个方面都很重要。

From Greg's perspective, the story is important in a couple of ways.

一是他们会把冲浪板视为艺术品，并将其归入复制即构成重罪的类别。

One is that they would consider this, a surfboard, as artwork and put it in a category where copying it would be judged a felony for duplicating artwork.

另一件令人难以置信的事情是，这些便衣冲浪警察作为欺诈小组的一部分，竟然会做到那种程度。

The other incredible thing is that these undercover surf cops would go to the extent they did as part of a fraud squad.

我的意思是，这次行动可能花了加州纳税人大约两万美元。

I mean, they probably cost the citizens of California about $20,000 for this bust.

今天这篇故事的作者是Drew Kampion。

The author of today's story was Drew Kampion.

Drew Kampion是一位先驱性的冲浪作家和编辑，他在六十年代末将《Surfer》杂志转变为一股反文化力量，将体育新闻与幽默、哲学和社会评论融为一体。

Drew Kampion is a pioneering surf writer and editor who transformed Surfer Magazine in the late nineteen sixties into a countercultural force, blending sports journalism with humor, philosophy, and social commentary.

除了《Surfer》，他还为《Surfing》杂志撰稿，撰写了《冲浪文化史》等有影响力的书籍，并为各种冲浪出版物和媒体项目做出了贡献。

Beyond Surfer, he wrote for Surfing Magazine, penned influential books like A History of Surf Culture, and contributed to various surf publications and media projects.

他风趣又多元的风格使他成为冲浪文学中最具多面性的声音之一，也让他成为2008年首批入选亨廷顿海滩冲浪者名人堂的作家。

His witty, eclectic style made him one of the most versatile voices in surf literature, earning him a place as the first writer inducted into the Huntington Beach Surfers Walk of Fame in 2008.

好了，再次感谢你的收听。

Well, you once again for joining us.

我真的希望你喜欢今天的《冲浪故事》。

I really hope you enjoyed today's Surf Stories.

下次再见，保持你的脚趾在板头，底转紧凑，热情高涨。

Until next time, keep your toes on the nose, your bottom turns tight, and your stoke high.

我们海里见。

I'll see you in the lineup.