S2 E28: In the Shadow of Waimea by Chris Ahrens

朋友们，大家好，欢迎回到冲浪者图书馆。

Hello, my friends, and welcome back to the Surfer's Library.

我是比利·杰克，带你翻阅冲浪历史、文化和传奇的向导。

I'm Billy Jack, your guide through the pages of surf history, culture, and legend.

今天我们要读一本我最近淘到的书，叫《冲浪者、跳伞者、团队套索手、企业家的冒险》，作者是唐·汉森，与克里斯·阿伦斯合著。

Today, we're gonna be reading a book I recently picked up called The Adventures of a Surfer, Skydiver, Team Roper, Entrepreneur by Don Hansen with Chris Ahrens.

这本书的核心是唐·汉森的人生故事，他是加州冲浪文化中的关键人物，也是汉森冲浪板的创始人。

At its core, Hansen is the life story of Don Hansen, a key figure in California surf culture and the founder of Hansen's Surfboards.

这本书讲述了他从南达科他州到加州海岸的旅程，说实话，对一个冲浪者来说，这起源故事挺离奇的。

This book follows his journey from South Dakota to the California coast, which is a pretty wild origin story for a surfer, if you ask me.

书中记录了他如何在六十年代冲浪板制造的黄金时代崛起，还涵盖了他去夏威夷冲浪的经历，包括大浪和比赛。

It tracks his rise during the golden era of surfboard manufacturing in the nineteen sixties, covers his time surfing in Hawaii, including big waves and competition.

然后，故事超越了冲浪，进入了他作为跳伞者、团队套索手和企业家的其他人生。

It then goes beyond surfing into his other lives as a skydiver, team roper, and entrepreneur.

我想说的是，这不仅仅是一本关于冲浪的书，而是一个多面人生的冒险故事。

I guess what I'm saying here is that it's not just a book about surfing, it's a multi life adventure story.

那么，今天我们来讲第五章，在威美亚的阴影下，讲他在北岸那不可思议的一年，他挑战了当时最大的海浪，还登上了梦寐以求的《冲浪者》杂志封面。

With all that said, today we're gonna be reading chapter five in the shadow of Waimea about his incredible year on the North Shore where he challenged the biggest waves in the world and scored a coveted Surfer Magazine cover.

让我们和唐·汉森一起，在1960年秋天，去夏威夷冲浪吧。

Let's paddle out with Don Hansen in Hawaii in the fall of nineteen sixty.

第五章，在威美亚的阴影下。

Chapter five, in the shadow of Waimea.

1960年秋天，我乘坐“愉快夏威夷假期”的航班，从旧金山出发，经过十二个小时的飞行，抵达了夏威夷。

I arrived in Hawaii in the fall of nineteen sixty after a twelve hour flight on Pleasant Hawaiian holidays flying out of San Francisco.

飞过去又飞回来，我一直在想，飞机到底哪来那么多油，能在空中待那么久。

Flying there and flying back, I kept wondering where all the gas was coming from to stay in the air that long.

第一次从空中看到瓦胡岛，那是我当时人生中最激动人心的时刻之一。

Seeing Oahu from the air for the first time was one of the most exciting points of my life at that time.

从空中看，它显得那么宁静，那么迷人。

It looked so peaceful and inviting from the air.

不过，我也知道，它并不像看上去那么平静，我即将面对的是当时从未有人征服过的最大的海浪。

Still, I knew it wasn't as tranquil as it appeared and that I was about to be challenged by the biggest waves ever ridden at that time.

大家都在谈论那些新冲浪的地方，怀梅阿湾和管道。

Everyone was talking about these newly ridden spots, Waimea Bay and Pipeline.

落地后，我们觉得湿度大得让人喘不过气来，不过很快就习惯了。

Upon landing, we noticed the humidity was suffocating, which was something we soon got used to.

那时候我还不认识著名的夏威夷冲浪手萨米·李，但他记得看到我下飞机的情景。

I didn't know famed Hawaiian surfer, Sammy Lee, at the time, but he remembers seeing me get off the plane.

他当时在机场工作，多年后他告诉我，他们看到我带着怀孕的妻子、两个孩子和六块冲浪板。

He was working at the airport then, and he told me years later they had seen me with a pregnant wife, two kids, and half a dozen surfboards.

那些冲浪板是我在奥尼尔工作的时候做的，我的计划是卖掉大部分，靠头几个月的收入生活。

I had made the boards while working for O'Neil, and my plan was to sell most of them and live on whatever came in for the first few months.

李说他想知道我到底从哪里来，又要去哪里，我自己也有点这种感觉。

Lee said he wondered where the hell I was coming from and where could I possibly be going, and I kinda felt that way myself.

搭车到了檀香山的汽车街后，我们花了大约300美元买了一辆1946年的斯图德贝克。

After getting a ride to the mile of cars in Honolulu, we bought a 1946 Studebaker for about $300.

那时候很多来冲浪的游客都住在车里。

Many visiting surfers lived in their cars back then.

我倒是不介意那样，但带着两个孩子和怀孕的妻子，那是不可能的。

I wouldn't have minded that, but it was out of the question with two children and a pregnant wife.

和当时大多数从大陆来北岸的人一样，我们住得比较简陋，能找到什么住处就住什么。

Like most everyone else visiting the North Shore from the Mainland at the time, we lived somewhat primitively in whatever shelter we could find.

那一年我们没什么钱，但这却成了我人生中最有趣、最冒险的一段时光。

We didn't have much that year, but this would become one of the most fun and adventurous periods of my life.

瓦胡岛很美，但我不是来看风景的。

Oahu was beautiful, but I wasn't there for the scenery.

我来这里只有一个原因，就是去冲我能找到的最大的浪。

I was there for one reason, to ride the biggest waves I could find.

我下定决心要迎战任何到来的浪，但我还是不确定自己能不能行。

I was determined to charge whatever came in, but I still wondered if I was up to the task.

我不记得第一晚住在哪里，也不记得是否已经在卡维拉湾订了地方，那里是我们冬天的家。

I don't recall where we stayed that first night or if we had already reserved a place in Cavella Bay, which would be our home for the winter.

总之，我们最后在日落海滩北边的卡维拉湾租了个地方。

Anyway, we ended up renting a place in Cavella Bay just north of Sunset Beach.

卡胡库糖业种植园拥有这些老旧的种植园房屋。

The Kahuku Sugar Plantation owned these old plantation houses.

我记得租给我房子的工头叫摩根。

I recall that the foreman who rented to me was named Morgan.

我给他打了电话，问他能不能租给我们一间小屋。

I had called him up and asked if he would rent us one of his cabins.

他对我一无所知，却很快就答应了。

Without knowing anything else about me, he quickly agreed.

租金是每月40或50美元。

The rent was 40 or $50 a month.

如果你不知道卡贝拉湾在哪里，你根本不会注意到它的存在。

If you didn't know where Cabela Bay was, you would not even know it was there.

那个地方杂草丛生，你得走一条小土路才能进去。

The area was overgrown, and you had to take a little dirt path to get in.

一旦你进去了，那里就是天堂。

Once you did, it was paradise.

几年前，我又想找那条路，就在卡姆高速边上的一个菜摊问了个伙计入口在哪里。

A few years ago, I was looking for the road again, and I asked a guy at his vegetable stand on Cam Highway where the entrance was.

他指给我看，我就沿着那条土路开到了我们家人曾经住过的地方。

He showed me, and I drove down the dirt track to the place our family had once lived.

我们的房子和其他小屋都不见了。

Our house and all the other cottages were gone.

除此之外，那里还是和以前一样，是个伊甸园。

Other than that, it was the same Eden it had always been.

我们第一次到那里是秋天，对于大浪季节来说算是早的。

We first arrived there in fall, which is early for the big wave season.

那时候在那儿冲浪的人还不多，但结果那年早季的浪特别好。

There weren't many guys surfing there yet, but it turned out that the surf would be excellent early that year.

当时唯一的冲浪摄影师是冲浪电影制作人格兰特·罗洛夫。

The only surf photographer around was surf filmmaker Grant Roloff.

我最早冲浪的地方之一是春礁，那是一种南加州风格的浪。

One of the first places I surfed was Chun's Reef, a Southern California type of wave.

就像我说的，我一直对清澈的水情有独钟，那里的水清澈得能一直看到春斯礁石，直到外海。

As I mentioned, I was always attracted to clear water, and it was so clear I could see down to the reef at Chuns all the way to the outside.

水清又暖，人少，浪也完美。

Clear, warm water, uncrowded, perfect surf.

我简直像在天堂一样。

I was in heaven.

那时候我才冲了四五年浪，岛上比我厉害的人多了去了。

I had only been surfing for four or five years by then, and there were many better surfers than me in the islands at the time.

我对周围的一切都充满敬畏，很快也会对有时巨浪滔天的景象感到敬畏。

I was in awe of my surroundings and would soon be in awe of how massive the waves could get at times.

没过多久，我们的孩子看起来就像《汤姆·索亚历险记》里走出来的人物，晒得黝黑，头发有些褪色，从不穿鞋，也不穿衬衫，只穿短裤。

After a short while, our kids began looking like something out of Tom Sawyer, all tanned with some bleached hair, never wearing shoes, shirts, or anything but shorts.

那时候我对水果没什么兴趣，但到处都是野生的番石榴、面包果和芒果，随便摘。

I wasn't interested in fruit at the time, but there were all sorts of wild guava, breadfruit, and mangoes free for the taking.

我们主要靠米饭和龙虾过日子。

We lived on a lot of rice and lobster.

海湾中间有些浅水区，在那里你总能抓到足够吃一顿的龙虾。

There were some shallow spots in the middle of the bay where you could always count on getting enough lobsters for a meal.

那时候抓海龟也是合法的，但我从来没抓到过。

It was also legal to take turtles in those days, but I never got any of them.

有一天，我认识的最好的两个潜水员——尼尔·托宾和著名的巨浪冲浪者兼深水潜水员何塞·安赫尔——过来带我去了另一个礁石。

Two of the best divers I'd ever known, Neil Tobin and famed big wave surfer and deep water diver, Jose Angel, came by one day and took me to another reef.

那里大约有四分之一英里长的一段非常浅，然后才突然变深。

It was really shallow for about a quarter mile before it dropped off in deep water.

我们被一条大鲨鱼赶出水面后，最后游回里面，在礁石的浅水区待着。

After we got chased out of the water by a big shark, we ended up swimming inside and hanging out in the shallow part of the reef.

我的车只坏过一次，那次是后桥出了问题。

My car only broke down once when the rear end went out.

然后，我的朋友尼尔·托宾（他已经在北岸了）和我沿着卡姆高速公路两边的沟渠搜寻被丢弃的车。

Then my friend Neil Tobin, already on the North Shore, and I scoured the ditches along Cam Highway for abandoned cars.

尼尔很擅长修车，当我们在路边沟里发现一辆和我那辆类似的废弃斯图德贝克车时，我们就开始动手了。

Neil was great at fixing cars, and when we found a junk Studebaker in a ditch on the side of the road that was similar to mine, we went to work.

我们找到的那辆车满是泥土和杂草，我甚至不确定它是不是和我那辆同一年款的。

The vehicle we located was covered with dirt and weeds, and I'm not even sure it was the same year as mine.

不过，我们还是就地把它顶起来，拆下需要的零件，当地人在旁边开车经过，大喊着‘嘿，豪利’。

Still, we jacked it up right there and removed the needed parts while the locals drove by screaming out, hey, howley.

我们把拆下来的后桥换到我车上原来的位置。

Once we removed the rear end, we replaced it with the one from my car.

从那以后就一切顺利了，那年剩下的时间里我每天都开那辆车，再也没出过问题。

It went just fine from then on, and I ended up driving that car every day for the remainder of that year without any more problems.

找到了天堂。

Paradise found.

汤姆·凯克是来自科罗纳多的摄影师，也是我的好朋友。

Tom Keck is a photographer and good friend of mine from Coronado.

1960年，他和约翰·埃尔韦尔在夏威夷的杨百翰大学上学。

In 1960, he and John Elwell were going to school in Hawaii at Brigham Young University.

汤姆在我附近的卡维拉湾租了一栋老式种植园房子，他让我在他房子旁边的车库里做冲浪板。

Tom had rented one of these old plantation houses in Cavella Bay near me, and he let me make surfboards in the garage attached to his place.

他说他不想把车停在车库里，因为那个车库太破旧了，屋顶可能会塌下来砸坏他的车。

He said he didn't wanna leave his car on the garage because it was so dilapidated the roof might fall in and damage his car.

谢谢你，汤姆。

Thanks, Tom.

据凯克说，那个地方到处都是洞，唐在打磨的时候，泡沫粉尘到处飞。

According to Keck, the place was so full of holes that there was foam dust flying around everywhere when Don was shaping.

那些房子没有窗户，只有纱窗和百叶窗，这样下雨的时候可以把所有东西都封起来，在岛上经常下雨。

The houses had no windows, just screens and shutters so you could board everything up when it rained as it so often does in the islands.

说实话，那几乎不能叫房子，但我们需要的东西都有，包括室内厕所和水槽。

You could barely call it a house, really, but it had everything we needed, including an inside toilet and a sink.

除此之外，就只有一个大卧室，而且是开放式的。

Other than that, it consisted of one big bedroom and was just open.

那时候我26岁，虽然不是每个人都会喜欢我们住的地方，但我和我妻子莎伦都很喜欢。

I was 26 years old at the time, and while not everyone would have liked living where we did, my wife, Sharon, and I loved it.

那时候尼基大概四五岁，博大约七岁。

Nikki was probably four or five, and Beau was around seven at the time.

他们那时候还太小，不能在那里冲浪，但每天都会花好几个小时去探索海滩和礁石附近的浅水区。

They were too young to surf over there, but they spent hours each day exploring the beach and shallow water near the reef.

《冲浪者》杂志的创始人约翰·塞弗森在感恩节前就到了，来为他的杂志拍照片，也为他的冲浪电影拍摄胶片。

The founder of Surfer Magazine, John Severson, arrived sometime before Thanksgiving to take still photos for his magazine and to shoot film for his surf movies.

他就住在我们这条路往下走不远的地方。

He lived just down the road from us.

感恩节那天我们去了他家，我带了一只火鸡。

We went to his house on Thanksgiving Day, and I brought a turkey.

他也有火鸡，但他吃了我带的，把自己的留了下来。

He also had a turkey, but he served mine and kept his.

那时候食物很紧缺，尤其是家里还有老婆和两个饿着肚子的孩子，我本来还指望能带点剩菜回家呢。

Food was scarce in those days, especially with a wife and two hungry kids, and I was hoping to go home with some leftovers.

约翰和我虽然是朋友，但这件事让我心里别扭了好一阵子，尤其是当时他比我有钱多了。

John and I were friends, but that kind of irritated me for a while, especially since he had a lot more money than I did at the time.

和大多数搬到北岸冲浪的人一样，我们也是靠那点微薄的钱过日子。

Like most everyone else who had migrated to the North Shore to surf, we were living on a shoestring.

那时候生活开销不大，我靠做冲浪板也能赚点钱。

It didn't cost much to live, and I made a little something on my surfboards.

不过，我们还是需要多一点钱才能维持生活。

Still, we needed a little more to survive.

那是我这辈子唯一一次领失业救济金。

That was the only time in my life I collected unemployment.

后来塞弗森让我登上了《冲浪者》杂志的封面，这完全弥补了之前的一切，甚至更多。

Severson made up for everything and more when he put me on the cover of Surfer Magazine.

我其实不太擅长小浪冲浪，但看到自己登上封面，写着“霍莉·伊娃”，对我来说真是个意外的惊喜。

I wasn't much of a small wave surfer, but being on the cover writing Holly Eva was a pleasant shock to me.

那时候冲浪媒体很少，《冲浪者》是领先的杂志。

There was very little surf media around in those days, and Surfer was the leading magazine.

那时候如果你的照片能登上《冲浪者》杂志的封面，你就出名了。

If you got your photo on the cover of Surfer Magazine in those days, you were made.

当浪真的来的时候，很多人坐在沙滩上看，而我决心不管什么浪来都要去冲。

I was determined to surf whatever waves came through while many of the guys sat on the beach when it really got going.

我理解，也不能怪他们。

I understand that, and I can't blame them.

那确实挺吓人的。

It can be terrifying.

我有时候也害怕，但总是尽量冲出去，虽然在大浪天日落或怀梅阿被扣在浪里时，有几次心都提到嗓子眼了。

I was scared at times, but I always tried to make it out, even though I had my heart in my throat a few times when I got stuck inside on big days at sunset or Waimea.

记住，在夏威夷他们是从浪背面量浪高的。

Keep in mind that they measure the wave from the back in Hawaii.

所以当他们说的十五到十八英尺的浪砸到你头上时，你什么都不是。

So when what they call a 15 to 18 foot wave is dropping on your head, you're nothing.

你会很快意识到，跟试图把你拍扁的大海相比，你有多渺小。

You quickly realize how small you are compared to the ocean that is trying to hammer you.

你正想划到水道那边，突然看到远处有东西涌过来。

You'd be out trying to get over to the channel when you spotted something coming in from way outside.

转眼间，一面巨大的浪墙就要在你面前扣下来。

Suddenly, there'd be this vast wave face about to break on you.

肾上腺素飙升，你只能把冲浪板推开，拼命往深处潜。

Your adrenaline is pumping, and you have no choice then but to push your board away and dive as deep as you can.

如果运气好，你的板子能翻过去，而且在你划回浪区时没有更大的浪打过来。

If you were lucky, your board made it over, and there were no bigger waves coming in as you paddled out into the lineup.

我有些在罗洛夫的电影里骑大浪的镜头。

I had some shots of myself riding big waves in some of Roloff's movies.

《北涌》是主要的一部。

North Swell was the main one.

如果你能找到拷贝，告诉我一声。

And if you can find a copy, let me know.

我很想再看一遍。

I'd love to see it again.

格兰特知道我在做冲浪板，他总是尽力帮我，让我出现在他的电影里。

Grant knew I was making surfboards, and he always did his best to help me out by getting me into his movies.

他放映电影时，会给我的生意打广告，说类似“这是唐·汉森骑着他自己做的冲浪板”这样的话。

When he aired the film, he'd give my business a plug saying something like, here's Don Hansen riding one of his own surfboards.

这最终对我的生意帮助很大。

That really helped my business eventually.

托宾不怎么玩冲浪板，但他是个非常棒的徒手冲浪者。

Tobin didn't board surf much, but he was a hell of a body surfer.

他给我演示了一些刹车技巧，但我主要是通过观察一段时间，弄清楚冲浪区里的情况来学会的。

He showed me some of the brakes, but I mostly learned them by watching for a while and figuring out where everything was in the lineup.

从那里开始，就是划出去，找准位置，然后出发。

From there, it was just paddling out, getting into position, and go.

出发并不总是那么容易，尤其是在威美亚，那里比日落海滩更具挑战性。

Going was not always that easy, especially at Waimea, which is a lot more challenging to ride than sunset.

对我来说，那主要是求生的姿势。

For me, it was mostly a survival stance.

当你从浪尾冲出来时，你会松一口气，庆幸自己又成功了一次。

And once you came out over the end of the wave, you breathed a sigh of relief that you had made another one.

最糟糕的部分是等待时的紧张，以及担心如果被浪困在里面会发生什么。

The worst part of it was the anticipation and wondering what might happen if you got caught inside.

当你开车沿着卡姆公路去威美亚的时候，你就知道浪会非常大。

You knew the waves were going to be massive as you drove down Cam Highway down Waimea.

北岸其他大浪点，比如日落海滩，浪都在很远的海里就破了，然后整个关闭，有时候涌浪还会把路给淹了。

Every other North Shore big wave spot like sunset broke way out to sea and closed out, sometimes flooding the road with the surge.

不过，一旦我到了海滩，我就知道自己一定要下海。

Once I got down to the beach, however, I knew I was going out there.

我从来不健身，但我一直冲浪，稍微注意饮食，所以身材保持得还不错。

I never did work out, but I surfed all the time, watched my diet a little, and I stayed in reasonable shape.

我给一个叫马克斯·林的本地冲浪手做了一把十英尺六寸的大浪专用冲浪板。

I made a 10 foot six inch elephant gun for a local surfer named Max Lim.

那时候我二十多岁，他大概六十岁，还跟我们一起冲大浪。

I was in my mid twenties at the time, and he was around 60 and still riding big waves alongside us.

他是个非常棒的冲浪手，人也特别好。

He was a fantastic surfer and a really nice guy.

兰迪·拉雷克最近跟人说，他找到了那块板，并在拍卖会上卖掉了。

Randy Rarek recently told someone he located that board and sold it at auction.

他说龙骨上写的字是“为Max Lim制作的象枪”。

He said the words on the stringer read elephant gun for Max Lim.

我真希望当时知道那块板在卖。

I wish I would have known that board was for sale.

我会花大价钱把它买回来的。

I would have paid good money to get it back.

那年在威美亚有几个大浪天，我冲浪生涯中收到的最大的赞美之一，是在我冲完一个大浪天回来之后。

There were some big days at Waimea that year, and one of the biggest compliments I ever had in surfing was after I came in from riding a big day.

浪非常大，海滩上坐着一群人观看。

The waves were massive, and there were a bunch of guys sitting on the beach watching.

我走过时，其中一个叫Ricky Young的人，他是南湾出来的顶尖冲浪手之一，说：“Hansen，你今天冲了大浪。”

As I walked by, one of the guys, Ricky Young, who was among the better of surfers coming out of South Bay, said, well, Hansen, you rode some big waves today.

你不需要再证明自己了。

You no longer have to prove yourself.

我不知道是不是这样，但我知道我有个习惯，就是几年内尽我所能把事情做到最好，然后再转向下一个挑战。

I don't know about that, but I know that I have this habit of doing something as hard and as well as I can for a few years before moving on to the next challenge.

那个冬天在夏威夷之后，我并没有放弃冲浪，但再也没有像那年那样投入了。

I didn't quit surfing after that winter in Hawaii, but I was never again as into it as I was that year.

前方还有其他的挑战，还有其他我想尝试的事情。

There were other challenges ahead and other things I wanted to try.

格雷格·诺尔可能不是世界上最有风格的冲浪者，但在我看来他确实很棒，而且他什么浪都敢冲。

Greg Noel may not have been the most stylish surfer in the world, but he sure looked good to me, and he took off on anything.

难怪他们叫他公牛。

No wonder they call him the bull.

像诺尔这样的人似乎毫无畏惧。

Some guys like Noel don't seem to have any fear.

他们就是不怕。

They just aren't afraid.

就像任何过着惊险生活的人一样，格雷格也有过几次惊险时刻，这也是他传记的名字。

Like anyone who's lived life over the edge, the name of his biography, Greg has had some close calls.

一次是在1969年的马西夫·穆卡豪，那里大多数人认为他冲了当时最大的浪。

One was at Massive Muckahaw in 1969, where most agree he rode the biggest wave ever up to that time.

有些人因为太拼命挑战极限而丧命。

Some guys die pushing the envelope that hard.

虽然冲大浪确实让人肾上腺素飙升，也让人害怕，但通常不会危及生命。

And while surfing big waves can be an adrenaline rush and scary for sure, it's usually not life threatening.

即便如此，我毫不避讳地说，无论是冲大浪、跳伞还是团队套索，有时候都把我吓得半死。

Even so, I have no trouble admitting that everything from big wave surfing, skydiving, and team roping has scared the shit out of me at times.

在冲浪方面，我达到了自己表现的巅峰，然后想，我不需要再这样做了。

In surfing, I got to the point where I reached the peak of my own performance and thought, I don't have to do this anymore.

也许就像杨说的，我不再需要证明自己了。

Maybe it was as Young said, I no longer had to prove myself.

格雷格·诺尔、帕特·柯伦、迪克·布鲁尔和迈克·多伊是加州在浪大时的几位佼佼者。

Greg Knoll, Pat Curran, Dick Brewer, and Mike Doyle were some of California's standouts when it got big.

基莫·霍林格、亨利·普里斯特和何塞·安吉尔是当地著名的冲浪者。

Kimo Hollinger, Henry Priest, and Jose Angel were among the prominent locals.

安吉尔是个出色的冲浪者和潜水员，我从未听他吹嘘过自己取得的任何成就。

Angel was a fantastic surfer and diver, and I never heard him brag about anything he ever accomplished.

如果你丢了冲浪板，别无选择，只能游过去追。

If you lost your board, you had no choice but to swim for it.

你只希望自己不在那个危险区域，不然海浪会把你压到海底。

You hoped you weren't right in the kill zone where the waves could drive you to the bottom.

那是我唯一害怕的事情。

That was the only thing I was afraid of.

我总是尽量往更里面或者绕到另一边去。

I always tried to get in further or out on the other side of it.

那时候冲浪绳还要再过十年才发明出来，一旦丢了板，你就得游很长一段路，尤其是在日落的时候。

The surf leash wouldn't be invented for another decade, and when you lost your board, you were in for a long swim, especially at sunset.

我在那里丢了板的时候，会游到只有一两英尺深的礁石区。

When I lost my board there, I'd get into the reef where it was only about a foot or two deep.

我当时肯定肾上腺素飙升，因为一到那里，我就跑过那片礁石，脚被割得乱七八糟，却几乎感觉不到疼。

I must have had a lot of adrenaline running through me because once I got there, I'd run over that reef, cutting the shit out of my feet without really feeling it.

那条水道水流湍急得像条河，我会确保自己尽量靠北边，然后跳下去拼命游到对岸。

That channel would be running like a river, and I'd make sure I was as far to the north as I could get before I dove in and swam like a son of a bitch for the other side.

我祈祷能在水道变成离岸流、流向大海之前上岸。

I'd pray I'd get in before the channel turned into a rip and headed out to sea.

一旦有人被卷入那股离岸流，五分钟内就可能被带到三四百码外。

When someone got caught in that rip, they could be taken out 300 to 400 yards in, like, five minutes.

然后你就会听到他们喊救命。

Then you'd hear them yelling, help.

救命。

Help.

如果你没能马上抓住你的冲浪板，你就得再绕一圈。

If you didn't get your board right away, you'd have to go around again.

有时候，别人的冲浪板会被冲走，板主会请你帮忙去捡回来。

Sometimes someone's board would get swept out to sea and the owner would ask you to go get it.

想都别想。

Not a chance.

我从来没有专门训练过应对大浪，但在圣克鲁斯冲了两年浪，我已经习惯了大浪。

I never did any training for big surf, but having surfed in Santa Cruz for two years, I was used to being in some pretty big waves.

虽然圣克鲁兹的浪没有日落那么有威力，但那里也有其他的挑战。

Even though Santa Cruz waves didn't have sunsets power, there were other challenges to face.

在蒸汽机巷，你得应付冰冷的水、厚厚的海藻、朝你叫的海狮，还有那令人不安的雾号声。

At Steamer Lane, you had to deal with the cold water, thick kelp, sea lions barking at you, and the ominous sound of foghorns.

夏威夷的水温暖又清澈，所以一开始浪的大小并没有让我太在意。

The water in Hawaii was warm and clear, so the surf size never bothered me that much initially.

直到后来你才意识到那些浪有多猛，才有点害怕。

It wasn't until later when you realized how powerful some of those waves were that it kind of scared you.

在那片海里，你显得特别渺小。

You were a little bit of nothing out there.

你根本抓不住你的冲浪板。

You can't hang on to your board.

浪够大的话，会直接从你手里抢走它。

A big enough wave will rip it out of your hands.

聪明的话，你就把板推开，自己游。

If you're smart, you push it away and swim.

我当时身体状态处于巅峰，游泳也还不错，所以我知道自己总能游回岸边。

I was in the best shape of my life, and I was a decent swimmer, so I knew I could always get in.

在夏威夷，海洋并不是唯一可能遇到危险的地方。

The ocean was not the only place you might face danger in Hawaii.

在陆地上，你同样可能很快遇到危险。

You could find it just as quickly on land.

我一直觉得，在北岸需要有人保护你，而亨利·普里斯特就是我在那里的主要保护者。

I always figured you needed someone to protect you when you were on the North Shore, and Henry Priest was my primary protector over there.

他是个非常好的人。

He was such a great guy.

我经常和朋友们出去喝酒，到了晚上，当地小伙子喝了几杯后，我就成了“豪利”。

I'd be out drinking with the guys, and by the end of the night, after the local boys had a few, you were a howley.

每当有夏威夷人说我是什么“豪利”时，我都不吭声，但亨利会插话说：“别惹他。”

Whenever one of the Hawaiians would say something about me being howley, I wouldn't respond, but Henry would jump in and say, leave him alone.

他是我兄弟。

He's my brother.

我在夏威夷人面前总是很守本分。

I always stayed in my place around the Hawaiians.

我很清楚这是他们的岛，我给了他们应有的尊重。

I was very aware that it was their island, and I gave them the respect they deserved.

即便如此，有时候喝了几杯之后，你马上就会变成外人。

Even so, sometimes after a few drinks, you could instantly become the howley.

亨利不止一次救了我。

Henry saved me more than once.

我还特意和Rabbit Kakai以及Buffalo Kealana交朋友。

I also made sure to be friends with Rabbit Kakai and Buffalo Kealana.

他们就像皇室成员，像夏威夷的酋长，大家都尊敬他们。

They were like royalty, like Hawaiian chiefs, and everybody respected them.

如果你想在Makaha冲浪，你得认识Buffalo。

If you wanted to surf Makaha, you needed to know Buffalo.

Rabbit已经不在了，但他和Buffalo是夏威夷最伟大的冲浪者之一，冲浪界对他们非常敬重。

Rabbit is gone, but he and Buffalo were among Hawaii's greatest surfers, and there's so much respect for them in the surfing world.

我第一次去夏威夷很多年后，我把我儿子乔什送到了那里。

Many years after my first trip to the islands, I sent my son Josh there.

他当时还年轻，有些人在冲浪区开始找他的麻烦。

He was young, and some guys began hassling him in the lineup.

我打电话给拉比特，告诉了他这件事，他说，别担心。

I called Rabbit and told him about it, and he said, don't worry.

我会处理的。

I'll take care of it.

事情就这样结束了。

That was the end of that.

那时候，夏威夷人很少来北岸。

The Hawaiians didn't come over to the North Shore much in those days.

我觉得他们不像大陆来的冲浪者那么认真或好胜。

I don't think they were as serious or as competitive as the mainland surfers were.

虽然他们大多天生就是冲浪的好手，但大多数人只是为了享受冲浪的乐趣。

While they were mostly naturally gifted surfers, most of them surfed merely for the joy of it.

有些人声称他们是第一个冲浪管道的人。

Some of them claimed they were the first to ride pipeline.

也许吧，但很难想象用古老的冲浪板在那个地方冲浪。

Maybe so, but it's hard to imagine riding that place with ancient surfboards.

如果你不住在海滩边，唯一知道海浪巨大的方式就是感觉到地面在震动。

If you didn't live right on the beach, the only way to know the surf was huge was when you felt the ground vibrating.

然后我会想，糟糕。

Then I'd think, shit.

现在我得去威美亚湾划水出去。

Now I gotta go down to Waimea and paddle out.

我总是会出去，而且在那里我几次冲到了大浪。

I always went out, and I got some big waves there a couple times.

尽管如此，你还是会感到焦虑。

Still, you have some anxiety attacks.

日落时分，至少对我来说，典型的一天是冲四五个浪。

A typical day at sunset, at least for me, was riding four or five waves.

那里很远，要划很多水。

It's a long way out and a lot of paddling.

划了四五道浪之后，我就累得不行了。

After four or five waves, I'd be done.

那里最吓人的是当浪峰移动，一个大浪就要砸在你头上。

The scariest part there is when the peak shifts and you're about to have a big wave break on you.

然后你就得拼命划，想冲上浪顶。

Then you'd find yourself scrambling to get up and over the top.

要是没成功，就会被浪卷下去，那可就惨了。

If you don't make it, it's a long trip over the falls.

我倒是没被卷下去过，但有时候我正划着追浪，却被吹回来的风顶回去，浪花直接打在脸上。

I never did get sucked over the falls, but there were times when I was paddling for a wave and I got sucked back up into the crust with the offshore wind blowing into my face.

我有时候也不确定自己能不能成功下浪，但回想起来，每次我都做到了。

I wasn't always sure I was gonna make the drop or not, but to my recollection, I always did.

有一天早上，我醒来感觉地面在震动，就知道浪特别大。

One morning, I awoke to feel the ground shaking, and I knew the surf was really big.

前一天晚上有个派对。

There'd been a party the night before.

我宿醉得很厉害，心想，如果今天还得去冲浪，我肯定会死。

I had a terrible hangover, and I thought, if I have to surf today, I'm gonna die.

但为了履行对自己的承诺，我还是装上冲浪板，开车去了管道。

But true to the promise I had made myself, I loaded up my board and drove to the pipeline.

我从来没见过那么大的管道浪，现在还能想起格雷格·诺尔斯站在那里，约翰·塞弗森拍下了那张后来成为史上最著名冲浪照片之一的画面。

I had never seen pipe that big, and I can still envision Greg Knowles standing there when John Severson took what would become one of the most famous surfing photos of all time.

格雷格独自站在那里，板子靠在肩上，心里盘算着怎么出海，面前是轰鸣的海浪。

Greg was contemplating how to get out, standing alone with his board leaning against his shoulder as the waves roared in front of him.

那张照片是在他划出去之前拍的，之后他骑上了当时管道浪上可能最大的浪。

The photo was taken just before he paddled out and rode what was probably the biggest surf ever ridden at Pipeline to that point.

我可能宿醉得太厉害了，因为以前我总能顺利出海。

I may have been too hungover because I had always been able to get out before.

但这次，每次我试着划出去，最后都被冲到海滩很远的地方。

However, this time, each time I tried to paddle out, I ended up way down the beach.

第三次被海浪冲回沙滩后，我看到几个巨浪打过来。

After my third time getting washed down the beach, I watched a couple of massive waves come through.

我心想，我真的要下海吗？

I thought, do I really wanna go out there?

那是我唯一一次退缩。

That was the only time I backed out.

在那么大的浪里，你得知道什么时候该说不，除非你想死。

In surf that size, you gotta know when to say no unless you wanna die.

后来我确实在浪小一些的日子去冲了管道浪。

I eventually did surf pipeline on some smaller days.

那里可能很危险，但几乎每个人都能活下来。

It can be dangerous, but almost everyone survives.

不过，偶尔还是有人会为了冲浪而丧命。

Still, once in a while, someone will die trying.

他们现在冲的浪比那时候危险多了。

The waves they're riding now are far more dangerous than they were then.

比如那位在葡萄牙纳扎雷冲上巨浪的女性。

Like the one woman who rode a massive wave in Nazare, Portugal.

据说那是那年冲过最大的浪，大约有75到80英尺高。

They say it was the biggest wave ridden that year and that it measured 75 to 80 feet.

这很难想象，因为如果那浪真的陡起来砸下来，可能会要人命。

That's hard to imagine because if that thing really steepened up and came over on you, it could kill you.

在那种大浪天出海，你会意识到大海能把你活活吞了。

When you're out there on a big day, you realize the ocean can eat you alive.

我在大浪天唯一的一张照片，是那年某个小浪天的日落时拍的。

The only photo I have on a big day is at sunset on one of the smaller days that year.

是格兰特的妻子朱迪·罗洛夫拍的。

Judy Roloff, Grant's wife, took the shot.

从正面看，这浪显得大得多，但如果像夏威夷那样从背面算，可能只有12英尺左右。

It measures out a lot bigger from the face, but if you consider it from the back the way they do in Hawaii, they probably only call it around 12 feet.

据我所知，1960年是澳大利亚人第一次出现在夏威夷。

To my knowledge, 1960 was the first year some of the Aussies showed up in Hawaii.

米克·麦克马洪、米奇·法利，也许还有纳特·扬，还有其他一些我忘了名字的澳大利亚人，就住在我们街对面。

Mick McMahon, Midge Farley, maybe Nat Young, and some other Australians whose names I've forgotten lived just down the street from us.

他们都是很棒的冲浪手，和他们聊他们的家乡很有趣。

They were all great surfers, and it was fun talking to them about their homeland.

他们为后来的人铺平了道路，那些人后来在夏威夷出了名。

They would pave the way for those who came later and would eventually make their names in Hawaii.

不过那时候，他们才刚刚起步。

Back then, however, they were just getting started.

大浪天你在等浪的时候，第一个看到浪来的人开始往外划，你就会想，天哪。

When you're in the lineup on a big day, the first person to see the set coming starts paddling out, and you think, oh, shit.

我得赶紧离开这里，不然就糟了。

I gotta get out of here fast or else.

你拼命划，想赶上。

You're racing to make it.

当你终于划到合适的位置，正好起乘的时候，那种感觉非常满足。

And when you finally paddle into the right spot and take off just right, it's very satisfying.

当你看到那道浪过来时，你得确保自己处在正确的位置，好顺势冲下去。

When you see that wave coming, you wanna make sure you're in the right place to drop into it.

不能太靠里，也不能太靠外。

You can't be too far in or too far out.

一开始划水，你很快就能发现自己位置对不对。

Once you start paddling, you quickly discover if you're in the correct position or not.

夏威夷自古以来就有造板的人。

There were board builders in Hawaii since ancient times.

但等我到那儿的时候，我主要看帕特·柯伦、乔·奎格和乔治·唐宁这些顶尖塑板师是怎么做的。

But by the time I got there, I looked to see what top shapers like Pat Curran, Joe Quigg, and George Downing were doing.

用自己做的板冲浪，那种刺激感完全不一样。

It was just that much more exhilarating writing a board you made.

有一阵子我大概一周做一块板。

I was probably making a board a week for a while.

为大浪做板，你得对它们有信心。

When you create boards for big waves, you need to have confidence in them.

不然的话，你就得一直泡在水里游泳了。

Either that or you'll be swimming all the time.

我对自己的冲浪板很有信心。

I had confidence in my boards.

它们又长又窄，重量也够，我知道它们在什么条件下都能用。

They were long and narrow and heavy enough, and I knew they would work in any conditions.

我大概每周做一块板，虽然不怎么赚钱，每周收入不到一百美元。

I was building about one board a week even though it wasn't that profitable, and I brought in less than $100 a week.

即使在当时，这点钱也不够养活一个四口之家，而且很快就要变成五口了。

Even back then, that wasn't sufficient for a family of four, which was soon to be five.

没关系。

That's okay.

多少钱也买不来我们拥有的东西。

No amount of money could buy what we had.

格雷格·德博·诺尔被列为史上最伟大的巨浪先驱之一，也是汉森的好朋友。

Greg DeBeau Knowle is ranked among the greatest big wave pioneers of all time and Hansen's close friend.

据格雷格·诺尔说，我是在那年和布鲁斯·布朗以及北岸的许多人在哈雷伊瓦冲浪时第一次注意到唐·汉森的。

According to Greg Knowle, I first became aware of Don Hansen while surfing Haleiwa with Bruce Brown and many of the North Shore crew that year.

他是个不错的冲浪手，但不像菲尔·爱德华兹那样。

He was a good surfer, not like Phil Edwards.

不过，他还是会冲浪，尤其是考虑到他来自南达科他州或库卡蒙加或什么鬼地方。

Still, he could surf, especially for having come from South Dakota or Cucamonga or some shit.

他很快就成了我们中的一员。

He became part of our group right away.

有些人永远融不进来。

Some guys never make it.

有些人摇摆不定，有些人则能融入。

Some guys kinda teeter, and some guys fit in.

汉森就是那种能立刻融入的人。

Hansen was one that fit right in.

当我了解他之后，我发现他是个非常棒的人，现在我会把他排在我真正好朋友的前十名里。

When I got to know him, I realized he was a really neat guy, and I would now put him in the top 10 of my really good friends.

唐在做冲浪板的时候非常注重细节。

Don paid a lot of attention to detail when he made surfboards.

他为自己了解所有事情而感到自豪。

He prided himself on knowing everything that was going on.

不过有一次，我们从夏威夷群岛回来后，澳大利亚的鲍勃·麦克塔维什向世界介绍了短板。

Once, however, after we returned from the islands, Australian Bob McTavish had introduced the world to shortboards.

我接到了查理·加伦托的订单，他是夏威夷的大浪冲浪者和诺尔店经理，要150块短板。

I got an order from Charlie Galento, Big Wave charger and Knoll shop manager in Hawaii, for a 150 shortboards.

那时候冲浪板平均长度大约10英尺，而这些小板子都只有7英尺左右。

They were little tiny boards all around seven feet in a time when boards averaged around 10 feet in length.

汉森过来拜访，他想一起吃午饭。

Hansen came by to visit, he wanted to have lunch.

他一直往工厂门口走，我就拦住他。

He kept heading for the door of the factory, and I'd block him off.

最后电话响了，他趁机溜了过去。

Finally, the telephone rang, and he got by me.

然后我听到这个，天哪。

And I heard this, holy shit.

怎么回事？

What's going on?

那里大概有75个架子，上面全是这些短板。

There were, like, 75 racks with all these short boards in them.

那是我第一次看到他措手不及。

That was the first time I ever saw him caught with his shorts down.

能看到他毫无防备的样子真是太好了。

It was neat to catch him unaware.

1968年，汉森和我在波多黎各参加世界比赛。

Hansen and I were in Puerto Rico for the world contest in 1968.

我们一起出去喝醉了，他对我吐舌头。

We went out and got drunk together, and he stuck his tongue out at me.

我伸手抓住他的舌头，紧紧握住不放。

I reached over, grabbed his tongue, and held on really tight.

他像猪一样尖叫。

He was squealing like a pig.

他只要咬下去，咬我的手，我就会松手。

All he had to do was chomp down and bite my hand, and I would have let go.

但他没有，我就一直抓着。

But he didn't, and I hung on.

他有点太规矩了，而我和朋友们算是地痞流氓。

He was a bit of a goody two shoes, and my friends and I were kinda scum of the earth.

但不知怎么的，我们成了好朋友。

But somehow, we became great friends.

关于唐，我只有好话可说。

All I can say is good shit about Don.

只要告诉他别再对我吐舌头了。

Just tell him not to stick his tongue out at me anymore.

最后，我只能说，因为唐·汉森，这个世界变得更好了。

In the end, all I can say is that the world's a better place because of Don Hansen.

好了，我觉得今天的内容就到这里了。

Well, I do believe that is gonna do it for today.

希望你们和我一样喜欢这一章。

I hope you enjoyed this chapter as much as I did.

我真的没想到唐在89年里经历了这么多人生。

I really had no idea Don had lived so many lives in his 89.

非常了不起。

Very impressive.

这本书里还有很多故事，所以我保证我们以后还会再回来讲这本书。

There's so many stories in this book, so I promise we will be coming back to this book in the future.

如果你喜欢这个故事，请考虑把这个播客分享给喜欢冲浪、冲浪文化，或者只是喜欢听过去好故事的朋友。

If you enjoyed this story, please consider sharing the podcast with a friend who loves surfing, surf culture, or just a good story from the past.

如果你想支持这个播客，可以访问 buymeacoffee.com/surferlibrary。

If you'd like to help support the podcast, you can visit buymeacoffee.com forward slash thesurferslibrary.

你的支持帮助我们支付每月维持节目运营的平台费用，所以任何一点帮助都很重要。

Your support helps cover the platform fees that keep the show going each month, so any little bit helps.

另外，如果你想赞助这个播客，或者有任何故事想法或反馈，请通过Instagram或thesurferslibrary@gmail.com联系我。

Also, if you'd like to sponsor the podcast or have any story ideas or feedback, please contact me on Instagram or at the surferslibrary@gmail.com.

好了，感谢收听，下次再见。记住，保持脚尖在板头，保持热情高涨，并且永远、永远、永远支持你当地的冲浪店。

With all that said, thanks for tuning in, and until next time, keep your toes on the nose, your stoke high, and always, always, always support your local surf shop.

我们海里见。

I'll see you out in the lineup.

克里斯·阿伦斯是一位多产的冲浪作家、故事讲述者和海洋历史学家，住在南加州。

Chris Ahrens is a prolific surf writer, storyteller, and ocean historian based in Southern California.

他为冲浪杂志写作已经超过三十年，为世界上所有主要的冲浪出版物都写过稿。

He's been writing for surfing magazines for over thirty years, contributing to every major surfing publication in the world.

他的书包括《好东西爱水》、《欢乐之旅》、《冲浪故事》第二卷，以及《卡莱亚的礼物：冲浪故事》，这些书汇集了他的散文、重述的传说和几十年冲浪经历。

Among his books are Good Things Love Water, Joy Rides, Surf Stories, volume two, and Kaleya's Gift, Surf Stories, all of which collect his essays, retold legends, and experiences from decades of surfing.

他最近的一本书是《风与海：生命、死亡、复活》，一本155页的巨著，记录了从20世纪30年代到80年代拉荷亚风与海礁浪点的历史、文化和人物。

His most recent book is Wind and Sea, Life, Death, Resurrection, a 155 page tome chronicling the history, culture, and characters of the Wind And Sea Reef Break in La Jolla from the nineteen thirties through the nineteen eighties.

阿伦斯的经验也不仅限于印刷品。

Ahrens also has experience beyond print.

他曾担任《Risen》杂志主编七年，编写并执导了纪录片《Dope, Death of Prison Eventually》，还与人合著了滑板运动员Christian Hosoi的回忆录。

He was editor in chief of Risen Magazine for seven years, wrote and directed the documentary Dope, Death of Prison Eventually, and has cowritten the memoirs of skateboarder Christian Hosoi.

他和妻子Tracy以及他们的猫住在加利福尼亚州的Cardiff By The Sea。

He lives in Cardiff By The Sea, California with his wife, Tracy, and their cats.

在海里冲浪仍然是他生活的核心。

Surfing in the ocean remains central to his life.

想了解更多，请访问他的网站peralandrapublishingcompany.com。

To learn more, visit his website, peralandrapublishingcompany.com.