S3 E4: Not Done Yet - Ch 8, 9 & 10

朋友们，大家好，欢迎来到冲浪图书馆。

Hola and aloha, my friends.

欢迎回到冲浪图书馆。

Welcome back to the Surfer's Library.

我是比利·杰克，带你翻阅冲浪历史、文化和传奇的向导。

I'm Billy Jack, your guide through the pages of surf history, culture, and legend.

今天，我们要深入阅读传奇人物科基·卡罗尔的《还没完》第八、九和第十章。

Today, we're diving into chapters eight, nine, and 10 of Not Done Yet by the legendary Corky Carroll.

又一集关于冲浪黄金时代的精彩故事，出自冲浪界最伟大的冲浪手之一。

Another episode of great stories of surfing's golden era by one of surfing's greatest surfers.

今天，我们会听到科基如何推动短板革命，如何赢得1967年秘鲁国际大浪锦标赛，甚至还在我挚爱的俄勒冈州那些寒冷而禁忌的海浪中冲浪。

Today, we're gonna hear about how Corky contributed to the shortboard revolution, how he won the nineteen sixty seven International Big Wave Championship in Peru, and even surfed the cold forbidden waves of my beloved Oregon.

冲浪界的偶像，如纳特·杨、大卫·努伊希瓦和杰夫·哈克曼，都将在本集的科基回忆录中亮相。

Surfers Nat Young, David Nuuhiwa, and Jeff Hakman are just a few of the icons of surfing that are gonna make appearances in Corky's memoirs this episode.

所有这些，还有更多精彩内容。

All this and much much more.

那我们就开始吧。

So let's paddle up.

第八章，勇敢的新世界。

Chapter eight, the brave new world.

1965年6月，我从亨廷顿海滩高中毕业，彻底搬出了父母家。

In June 1965, I graduated from Huntington Beach High School and moved out of my parents' home for good.

我在达纳角租了一间小别墅，对我来说，还有我的狗鲍里斯，简直完美。

I had rented a little cottage in Dana Point that was just perfect for myself and my dog, Boris.

鲍里斯是一只史宾格犬，它很棒，但算不上世界上最漂亮的狗。

Boris was a Springer Spaniel that was a great dog, but not the prettiest in the world.

其实是我爸给它取名叫鲍里斯，因为那个长得不太好看的恐怖片演员鲍里斯·卡洛夫。

It had actually been my dad who gave him the name Boris after the not so pretty horror movie actor Boris Karloff.

我靠霍比公司每周的工资和詹森公司的赞助费过活，用来冲浪。

I was living off my weekly salary from Hobie to surf and my Jansen retainer.

不过有时候钱还是会很紧张。

Sometimes money would be thin though.

全职养活自己，再加上大部分时间都花在开车跑遍整个海岸去冲浪和推广冲浪板上，我赚的每一分钱都不够花。

Supporting myself full time and spending most of my time driving all over the coast surfing and promoting the boards took every cent I was making.

我清楚地记得有一次，我身无分文，家里一点吃的都没有。

I can vividly remember one time when I was totally out of money and there was no food in the house.

那是星期四晚上，星期五才发工资。

It was a Thursday night and payday was on Friday.

唯一能吃的东西就是我狗鲍里斯最后一块盖恩斯汉堡。

The only thing there was to eat was my dog Boris' very last Gainesburger.

可能有人不知道那是什么，那是一种狗粮肉饼，以前有卖的，基本上就是把普通狗粮做成汉堡的形状。

For those of you who do not know what that is, it was a dog food patty that they used to sell, which was basically just normal dog food shaped into a burger like form.

鲍里斯饿了，我也饿了。

Boris was hungry and so was I.

唯一的办法就是把那玩意儿煎了，跟他分着吃。

The only thing to do was fry that sucker up and split it with him.

我给自己那一半加了盐和胡椒，还有我最后一点番茄酱。

I put salt and pepper and the last of my ketchup on my half.

尝起来就跟它本身一样，就是狗粮。

Tasted just like it was, dog food.

我试着告诉自己那只是难吃的咸牛肉罐头，但不对，那就是狗粮。

I tried to tell myself it was just bad corned beef hash, but no, it was dog food.

那年夏天，汤姆·莫雷举办了第一届职业冲浪比赛，这实际上是冲浪史上第一次提供现金奖金。

That summer, Tom Morey put on the very first professional surfing contest, actually offering a cash prize for the first time in surfing history.

那就是汤姆·莫雷的“鼻尖骑行邀请赛”。

It was the Tom Morey nose riding invitational.

比赛规则是限时鼻尖骑行。

The premise was that it would be a timed nose riding event.

谁在板头（也就是板的前25%）上待的时间最长，谁就赢。

The guy who rode the most time on the nose, considered the first 25% of the board, would win.

比赛在文图拉的加州街举行，那是一个右手浪点。

They held it at California Street in Ventura, which was a right hand point break.

为了公平起见，他们分成了左脚在前和右脚在前两个组别。

To make things fair, they had both regular foot and goofy foot divisions.

邀请函发给了领先的冲浪板制造商，他们可以派两名队员参赛。

Invitations were sent to the leading surfboard manufacturers who would be allowed to enter two of their team riders.

汤姆的目标是推动冲浪板设计的发展。

Tom's objective here was to stimulate surfboard design.

因为当时站在板头是件大事，他觉得一个计时的板头冲浪比赛会促使冲浪板制造商想出新的、更好的板头冲浪板设计，结果确实如此。

As nose riding was the big deal at the time, he figured a timed nose riding event would push the surfboard makers into coming up with new and better designs of boards to ride the nose, and it worked.

霍比·奥尔特、菲尔·爱德华兹和米奇·穆尼奥斯这三位设计高手成功想出了板头冲浪板形状的概念，这种形状至今仍在使用。

The design trio of Hobie Alter, Phil Edwards, and Mickey Munoz successfully came up with the concept for the nose rider shape that is still in use today.

板头下方是凹面，板身非常平直，尾部有些上翘。

Concave under the nose, a very straight rocker with some lift in the tail.

他们加了一个很重的尾鳍来增加阻力，让板子减速，这样冲浪者就能在板头上待更久。

They added a very heavy fin to add drag so the board would slow down, allowing the rider to stay on the nose longer.

霍比工厂队中，米奇·穆尼奥斯参加右脚在前组，我参加左脚在前组，我们俩都赢了。

The Hobie factory team was Mickey Munoz in the regular foot division and me in the goofy foot division, and we both won.

现金奖励是每人250美元，相当可观。

The cash prize was a whopping $250 each.

除了我们Hobie的冲浪板，还有一些挺有意思、也挺特别的板子出现了。

Aside from our Hobie nose writers, there were some interesting and pretty unusual boards that turned up.

跟我们最接近的就是Gordon和Smith队的Mike Hinson和Skip Fry。

The only ones close to what we had were the Gordon and Smith team of Mike Hinson and Skip Fry.

Mike做了几块不错的板子，鼻头宽，底部平。

Mike had made a couple of nice boards with wide noses and flat bottoms.

不错，但我们的更好。

Good, but ours were better.

Rusty Miller的板子尾部粘了两块砖头，Dewey Weber的板子鼻头下面粘了两个像浮筒似的东西。

Rusty Miller had a board with two bricks glued to the tail, and Dewey Weber had two pontoon kinda thingies glued under the nose.

最经典的参赛作品是Mike Doyle的。

The classic entry was Mike Doyle's.

他做了一块10英尺长的板子。

He had made a board that was 10 feet long.

不过，板子后面还伸出一根10英尺长的龙骨。

However, it had a stringer that stuck out the back for an additional 10 feet.

所以他就说他的板子实际上有20英尺长，因此冲浪板的前半部分就算作板头。

Thus, he claimed his board was actually 20 feet long, and therefore, the first half of the surfboard itself would be considered the nose.

显然，这就是所谓的钻规则空子。

Obviously, this was what you would call a rule beater.

汤姆·莫里觉得这不符合比赛精神，不让迈克这么干。

Tom Mori figured this was not in the spirit of the contest and would not let Mike get away with it.

他可以骑那块板，但只有前25%算作板头。

He could ride the board, but only the first 25% would be considered the nose.

迈克对这个糟糕的裁定非常不满，决定退出，不参加比赛了。

Mike, not happy at all with this revolting development, decided to split and not surf in the contest.

那场比赛之后，我觉得也许是时候从青少年组出来了。

After that event, I decided maybe it was time for me to get out of the juniors division in the contests.

我刚刚赢了板头骑乘比赛，之前还在盐溪跟成年组比赛时赢过USSA锦标赛。

I had just won the nose riding contest and had already won the USSA championship previously at Salt Creek surfing against the men.

所以虽然我才17岁，但我在年中就转到了公开成年组，并且赢了前两场比赛。

So even though I was still 17, I switched in mid year to the open men's division and won the first two events.

我觉得这个决定是对的。

I guess it was the right decision.

与此同时，霍比决定推出科基·卡罗尔和加里·普罗珀的签名款冲浪板。

At the same time, Hobie had decided to release both Corky Carroll and Gary Proper signature model boards.

我的想法是，我的板子适合西海岸和夏威夷的海浪，加里的则适合东海岸。

The idea was mine would be designed for West Coast and Hawaii surf, and Gary's would be for the East Coast.

我对此既高兴又有点不太高兴。

I was both happy and not so much about this.

我高兴是因为这会大大增加我的收入，但不太高兴是因为当时冲浪板销售主要在东海岸。

I was happy because this would be a big bump in my income, but not so much because the majority of surfboard sales were on the East Coast at that time.

事实上，现在也还是这样。

In fact, still are.

霍比向我保证，他们也会在东海岸卖我的板子，而且这样他也能更好地覆盖市场。

Hobie assured me that they would sell mine back there too, and it was just a good way for him to cover the market as well as possible.

不管怎样，这是件好事，我很兴奋。

In any case, this was a good thing, and I was stoked.

事情开始步入正轨，作为职业冲浪选手，我也开始了一段非常顺利的时期。

Things were starting to come together as far as this being a pro surfer thing went, and I was embarking on a really good run.

这一切都是全新的领域，每增加一点让这件事运作起来的方法，都是在开辟新天地。

This was all new territory, and with each little addition to ways to make this work, it was breaking new ground.

就职业冲浪而言，这确实是一个勇敢的新世界。

It truly was, as far as professional surfing went, a brave new world.

初夏的时候，我高中毕业大约一周后，我父母在瑟夫赛德的房子被烧毁了。

At the beginning of summer, about a week after I graduated from high school, my parents' house in Surfside burnt down.

我当时已经全职住在达纳角，是从报纸上看到这个消息的。

I was living in Dana Point on my own full time now and read about it in the paper.

我赶紧赶过去，发现我父亲正在灰烬中翻找，想看看有什么能抢救出来的东西。

I rushed up there to find my dad shifting through the ashes looking for anything he could salvage.

他看到我来了，对我说的第一句话是：“对不起，孩子。”

His first words to me when he saw me arrive were, sorry, kid.

你的所有奖杯都没了。

All your trophies are gone.

天哪。

Jeez.

好像那很重要似的。

Like that mattered.

一切都毁了。

Everything was gone.

但他一直为我感到骄傲，在他心里，失去我的一些奖杯对他来说很重要。

But he was always so proud of me, and in his mind, the fact that he lost some of my trophies was important to him.

我更担心的是，这是他们的家，现在没了。

I was much more concerned about the fact that this was their home, and now it was gone.

长远来看，我觉得这就是我父母婚姻开始走向终结的起点。

In the long run, I think that this was what started the beginning of the end of my parents' marriage.

火灾从隔壁烧起来的时候，我妈妈正在浴缸里，她差点没逃出来，房子就整个烧起来了。

My mom had been in the bathtub when the fire started next door, and she barely got out of the house before it totally went up.

她本来就很紧张，这件事更是让她彻底崩溃了。

She was very nervous anyway, and this shook her to her core.

可能也让我爸喝得更多了。

Probably made my dad drink more too.

这组合可不太好。

Bad combination.

他们后来在日落海滩附近租了栋房子，但我觉得他们之间再也回不到从前了。

They wound up renting a house down the way a little bit in Sunset Beach, but I don't think things were really ever the same for them.

那时候我完全独立了，手头也开始宽裕一些，所以到处旅行就更容易了。

As I was totally on my own now and starting to have a little bit more money in my pocket, it became easier for me to travel around more.

冬天的时候我会去夏威夷，从那时起就爱上了冲浪点Pipeline，这段情缘持续了三十多年。

In the winter, I would go to Hawaii and started a love affair with Pipeline, the surf spot, that lasted for over thirty years.

最后一次在那里冲浪是在我五十岁生日那天。

The last time I rode it was on my fiftieth birthday.

那个故事我后面再讲。

I'll get to that story later.

有一次我临时决定去那边追一个特别好的浪，结果第一次把背给伤着了。

It was on one sort of last minute trip over there to catch a really good swell that I first really hurt my back.

当时Pipeline浪况特别好，而且那时候，除非是十二月大家都去那儿，不然几乎没人去那儿冲浪。

Pipe was really good, and back then, unless it was during December when everybody was over there, hardly anybody surfed there.

十月底那三天，我几乎独享了那片浪。

I had it almost to myself for three solid days in late October.

第三天下午，我和另一个冲浪高手Mike Turkington一起在海里，结果我摔了个大跟头，整个人被拍到了海底。

On the third afternoon, I was out with just one other guy, a really good surfer named Mike Turkington, when I took a very bad wipe out and got rammed into the bottom sitting down.

我后背疼得厉害，爬上岸，钻进温暖的沙子里想缓解一下。

I had a huge pain in my back and crawled up onto the beach and burrowed into some warm sand to try and make it feel better.

但没用，那天晚上我根本睡不着。

It didn't, and I could not sleep that night.

第二天我飞回加州，去看了医生。

The next day, I flew back to California and saw my doctor.

他说可能是扭伤，让我多休息，慢慢就会好。

He said it was probably a sprain and to take it easy and it would go away.

我照做了，确实好了一些，但始终没有完全恢复。

So I did, and it got better, but never really did go away.

有时候它会疼，影响我冲浪，但还没到让我觉得没法冲浪或者应付不了的地步。

At times, it would get sore and make it hard to surf, but it never got to the point where I felt I couldn't surf or couldn't deal with stuff.

不过它一直在那儿，时刻提醒我要小心注意。

Nonetheless, it was always there and always something I had to be careful about.

除了能随心所欲地往返夏威夷，我也能想滑多久就滑多久，我几乎和喜欢冲浪一样喜欢滑雪。

Along with being able to go back and forth to Hawaii pretty much as I pleased, I was also able to go skiing all I wanted, and I loved to ski almost as much as I loved to surf.

我开始去猛犸山，那儿离我家大概要开八个小时的车。

I began going up to Mammoth Mountain, which was about an eight hour drive from my house.

有时候我周末参加冲浪比赛，周日晚上开车去马莫斯山，周一到周四滑雪，周五回家，下个周末再参加一场冲浪比赛。

Sometimes I would surf in a contest on the weekend, drive to Mammoth on Sunday night, ski Monday to Thursday, drive home Friday, and surf another contest the next weekend.

这倒不是每周都有的事，但确实发生过好几次。

This wasn't an every week thing, but it did happen a number of times.

从那年开始，我每年至少能滑六十天的雪，还几乎参加了所有能参加的冲浪赛事，不仅是在加州，全国各地都有。

Starting that year, I was able to get in at least sixty days of skiing every year along with surfing in just about every event that came along, not only in California, but all over the place.

那年十二月，夏威夷举办了首届杜克·卡哈纳莫库邀请赛。

That December, they held the first Duke Kanamoko Invitational in Hawaii.

全球排名前24的冲浪选手受邀参赛，邀请函包括机票、餐饮，还有威基基顶级酒店的住宿。

The top 24 surfers in the world were invited to compete, and the invitation included airfare, meals, and rooms at one of the top hotels in Waikiki.

每位冲浪选手还得到了一袋衣服和一个漂亮的金色奖杯，那是杜克的雕像，看起来就像奥斯卡奖杯一样，作为参赛的纪念。

Each surfer was also given a bag of clothes and a beautiful gold trophy, which was a statue of Duke that looked like an Oscar for competing.

能拥有一个这样的杜克奖杯，是非常酷的事情。

Having one of those dukes was a very cool thing.

我想我总共拿到了七个，它们对我来说极其珍贵。

I think I wound up with seven of them in all, and they were extremely special to me.

比赛在日落海滩举行，那天北岸的浪很大，天气也很好。

They held the contest on a good day in big surf at Sunset Beach on the North Shore.

我进入了决赛，对我来说这是巨大的成功。

I made the finals, which for me was a huge success.

杰夫·哈克曼，一个和我同龄的男孩，住在北岸，赢得了比赛。

Jeff Hakman, was another kid my age and lived on the North Shore, won it.

杰夫是个了不起的冲浪手，也是个非常酷的人。

Jeff was an amazing surfer and a really cool guy.

我和他成了朋友，还有另一个住在那边的小孩，叫乔克·萨瑟兰。

I'd become friends with him and another kid who lived out there named Jock Sutherland.

我们年纪相仿，都是崭露头角的冲浪新星。

We were all the same age and all up and coming Grammys.

我本来也想赢，但看到杰夫拿到冠军，我也很开心。

I would have liked to have won, but it was really great seeing Jeff get it.

能进决赛已经让我很满足了，而且我觉得我向大家证明了，我不只是那个只能在加州小浪里往左冲的沙滩浪选手。

Just making the finals made me feel good, and I think I showed people I was not just a small wave California guy that could only go left in beach breaks.

可能有些人之前是这么想的。

Some people probably thought that.

我照样能驾驭大浪，左右都能冲。

I could also ride big waves and go both ways as well.

第九章，巨变的开始。

Chapter nine, the beginning of the big change.

1966年才真正开启了我作为职业冲浪选手的黄金时期。

1966 would be the real beginning to my best years as far as being a competitive professional surfer.

那一年我赢了很多比赛，包括男子组、桨板赛，还有在美国锦标赛上颁发的杜克·卡哈纳莫库奖杯，那是颁给全能最佳冲浪手的。

I won a ton of events that year, including the men's division, paddleboard race, and Duke Kahanamoku trophy for best all around surfer at the United States Championship.

各方面都在好转。

Things were picking up all the way around.

不过，我想在这里提一件值得一提的事。

I do wanna mention something here, though, that is noteworthy.

在美国锦标赛上，我们六个决赛选手坐在沙滩上等最后一轮比赛时，都在看青少年组的比赛。

When we were sitting on the beach waiting for our final heat to go out at the US championship, the six of us finalists were watching the junior division.

大卫·努希瓦也在里面，他可能发挥出了他竞技生涯中最好的水平。

David Nuuhiwa was in it and probably turned in the best performance of his competitive life.

有很多照片记录了他站在板头，做出一个超酷的“灵魂拱桥”动作。

There are many photos documenting him perched on the nose doing a killer soul arch.

我们所有人好像不约而同地发出了“哇”的惊叹。

It seemed that all of us sort of in unison went, wow.

还好他还在青少年组。

Glad he's still in the juniors.

这件事之所以重要，原因有好几个。

This is important for a number of reasons.

大卫无疑是那个时代最出色的板头驾驭者。

David was without a doubt the best nose writer of that period.

我想没人会对此有异议。

I don't think anybody would argue that.

他的风格优美流畅，一上板头就能稳稳待住，待很久。

He had a beautiful smooth style, and he would just get up there and stay and stay.

那时候在美国，板头驾驭可是件大事，而他正是板头驾驭者中的王者。

At that time in The United States, nose riding was a really big deal, and he was the king of the nose riders.

美国锦标赛结束后不久，世界锦标赛就在圣迭戈举行了。

Shortly after the US championship, they held the world championship in San Diego.

来自世界各地的顶尖冲浪手都来参赛。

The top surfers from everywhere were coming to compete.

就在比赛即将开始前，我们听到了一些传言，说有个来自澳大利亚的家伙，叫纳特·扬，前一周一直在圣巴巴拉北部冲浪。

Just before the contest was supposed to start, we started hearing rumors about a guy from Australia named Nat Young who had been surfing the previous week up North of Santa Barbara.

据说他用的是一种新型的冲浪板，而且状态非常好。

He was reported to be riding some new kind of board and was really looking good.

我们报到参赛时，他们要求我们出示比赛要用的冲浪板，并且被告知在整个为期一周的比赛中不能更换。

When we checked in for the contest, they made us produce the boards that we would be riding in the event, and were told that we could not change during the week long event.

这可是头一回，以前从来没发生过这种事。

This was a first, had never happened before.

我猜澳大利亚人肯定觉得，如果我们看到内特用他那个板子冲浪，我们都会连夜赶制新板子。不过以我们现在了解的情况来看，那还真有可能发生。

I guess the Australians were sure that when we saw Nate riding whatever it was he was going to ride, that we would all go out and make new boards overnight, which knowing what we know now, actually could have happened.

其实内特的板子跟我们的差别并不大。

The truth was that Nat's board was not all that different than ours.

就是短了一点。

It was just shorter.

不是短很多，但短得刚好能让性能有明显提升。

Not a lot shorter, but shorter enough to make a remarkable difference in performance.

他转弯更灵活，整体在浪上的表现，怎么说呢，就是全面更胜一筹。

His turns were quicker, and his overall performance on the wave was, well, the best way to say it, overall better.

比赛一开始，我们就立刻看出了这一点。

We could see this right off the bat as the competition got underway.

这次赛事实际上是由三场比赛和最后一场决赛组成的。

This event was going to actually be three contests and one final heat at the end.

第一天，我在半决赛中击败了纳特，但他通过败者组复活赛进入了决赛。

On the first day, I beat Nat in the semifinals, but he came back through a loser's heat to make the final.

大卫状态火热，创下了当时最长的冲浪板鼻滑纪录。

David was on fire and got the longest nose ride on record at that time.

我开局不错，但大部分时间都被困在浪里。

I started off good, but got caught inside for most of the heat.

大卫赢了，纳特第二，乔克·萨瑟兰第三，我第四。

David won, Nat second, Joc Sutherland third, and me fourth.

第一天之后，大卫后来早早出局，而纳特再也没有输过。

After that first day, David would wind up losing early, and Nat didn't lose again.

到了最后一天在海洋海滩的终极决赛时，纳特的积分已经足够多，提前锁定了冠军。

By the time the last day came around for the ultimate final heat at Ocean Beach, Nat had so many points that he already had the title one.

乔克最后拿了第二，我拿了第三。

Jock would wind up in second place and me in third.

那天对冲浪来说是个大日子，至少在我看来，那是一场巨变的开端，后来被称为短板革命。

That was a huge day for surfing as, at least in my mind, it was the very beginning of a monumental change that would be ultimately called the shortboard revolution.

很多人对此有不同的说法，但我完全把这场大变革的功劳归于奈特·扬，就是1966年10月，他当场就开始了这场变革。

Many people have different versions on this, but I'll give Nat Young total credit for starting this big change right then and there in October 1966.

那一年我也开始赚了点钱。

That was also the year that I was starting to make a little bit of money.

当时我在想，应该投资点什么，或者买栋房子。

Was thinking that I should invest in something or maybe buy a house.

买房子的主意看起来最靠谱，但问题是我才18岁。

The house idea seemed to be the best bet, but there was the problem that I was only 18.

所以我去找父母，告诉他们我想买房子，如果我出全部的钱，他们能不能用他们的名字贷款？

So I went to my parents and I told them I wanted to buy a home, and if I put up all the money, could they take out the loan in their name?

等我21岁，信用记录建立好了，就可以把房子转到我的名下。

And when I turned 21 and had established good credit, we could get it transferred into my name.

他们觉得这个主意很棒，就同意了。

They thought it was a great idea and agreed.

我妈妈帮我一起看房，她是个特别爱看房的人，就算根本没打算买，也特别喜欢看房子。

My mom helped me shop as she was a dedicated real estate lookie loo, and one of her favorite things to do was look at property, even if she had no intention whatsoever to buy anything.

她就是喜欢看。

She just loved to look.

我们在卡皮斯特拉诺海滩找到了一套不错的小型双拼别墅。

We found a nice little duplex in Capistrano Beach.

这房子特别合适，因为我可以住一套，把另一套租出去，用租金来付月供、税费和保险。

This was ideal because I could live in one unit and rent out the other to help with the monthly house payment, taxes, and insurance.

我付了首付，我爸帮我贷了款。

I put in the down payment, and my dad got a loan for the financing.

我每个月把钱给他，包括税费和房屋保险。

I would pay him the payment each month, which included taxes and property insurance.

这多酷啊！

How cool was that?

我18岁就成了房主。

I was 18 and a homeowner.

第十章，演变，1966到1967年。

Chapter 10, the evolution, 1966 to 1967.

圣地亚哥世界比赛之后，我进入了一段疯狂的实验期，想为更短的冲浪板找到方向。

After the world contest in San Diego, I went on a sort of binge experimenting period, trying to come up with a direction for shorter boards.

霍比对我特别好，让我放手去做，想造多少板就造多少板。

Hobie was amazing with me and gave me a free hand to have as many boards made as I wanted.

为了给我的冲浪板系列下一步找到一个既实用又好卖的款式。

In the quest to come up with a not only workable, but also a sellable design for the next step in my surfboard model line.

在那之前，我一直用的是又薄又软的板。

I had been working with very thin and flexible boards up until this point.

不过，当我明白方向应该是更短时，我彻底放弃了那个想法。

However, I totally gave up on that idea when it became clear to me that the direction should be shorter.

薄板配短板效果不太好，因为我们在缩短长度的同时，还得尽量保持浮力。

Thin did not work so well with the first shorter boards because we were also trying to keep as much flotation as possible as we were taking away length.

我试了很多不同的形状，这里改一点，那里改一点，最后在1966年12月推出了迷你型号。

I tried a slew of different shapes and took a little off this and a little of that and came out with the mini model in December 1966.

这款板子的第一版长度大多在七英尺十一英寸到八英尺十一英寸之间。

The first incarnation of this board came mostly in seven foot 11 inch to eight foot 11 inch lengths.

它们看起来也差不多就是短一点的长板。

They also more or less resembled a longboard that was just shorter.

在那个年代，它们算是相当激进的，让我能以和几个月前完全不同的方式冲浪。

For that time period, they were pretty radical and allowed me to surf in a completely different manner than I had been doing only a couple of months previously.

至少在我看来，好像每天去冲浪都是全新的体验，几乎每一道浪都能让我有新的突破。

It seemed, at least in my mind, that every day I went surfing was a whole new experience, and I was able to break new ground almost wave to wave.

那真是一段激动人心的时光，我完全沉浸其中。

It was such a truly exciting time, and I just got engulfed in it.

1967年对我来说开局很棒。

1967 started off great for me.

我去了秘鲁，在蓬塔罗卡斯赢得了国际大浪锦标赛，成为第一个在菲利佩·波马尔的主场击败他的人。

I went to Peru and won the International Big Wave Championship at Punta Rocas, being the first to dethrone local Felipe Pomar at his home break.

我在那边还病得很重，决赛前在医院里待了一个星期，努力恢复。

I also got incredibly sick while down there and spent a week in the hospital trying to recover just before the final heat of the championship.

我是和臭名昭著的米奇·多拉一起飞过去的，他是马里布冲浪界的黑骑士，他来医院看我。

I had flown down there with the infamous Mickey Dora, Malibu's black knight of surfing, and he came to visit me in the hospital.

有消息说他们不会及时放我出去参加决赛。

Word was that they were not going to release me in time for the finals of the championship.

我那时还很虚弱，还没开始吃固体食物。

I was still very weak and not taking solid food yet.

我请米奇帮我逃出去，因为我一路走到决赛，不能让自己困在医院里错过比赛。

I asked Mickey to help me escape, as I had not come this far and made it all the way to the finals to let myself get stuck in the hospital and miss it.

于是米奇想了个办法，他在走廊里缠住医生谈话，我趁机溜出门，跳进我房间旁边的电梯。

So Mickey came up with a plan where he would engage the doctor in discussion in the hallway while I slipped out the door and jumped into the elevator that was right next to my room.

车就停在街上的前门外。

The car was just outside the front door on the street.

那是在利马市中心。

This was in Downtown Lima.

听起来是个好计划。

Sounded like a good plan.

第一个麻烦是我在那儿没有衣服。

First snag was that I had no clothes there.

我是被救护车送到医院的，当时被发现晕倒在我住处的浴室地板上。

I had been taken to the hospital in an ambulance after having been found passed out on the floor of the bathroom in the home I was staying in.

我身上只有那件病号服，而且只到腰这里。

All I had was the hospital gown I was wearing, and it only came to my waist.

所以实际上，我下半身是光着的。

So for all intents and purposes, I was naked from the waist down.

尽管如此，我还是按计划行事。当米奇把医生引到门口背对着我的房间时，我溜了出去，跳进电梯，下了楼。

Nonetheless, I went with the plan, and when Mickey had the doctor engaged with his back to the door of my room, I snuck out and jumped into the elevator and headed down.

第二个麻烦是，这不是普通的电梯。

Second snag was that this was not the normal elevator.

那是部货梯。

It was a service elevator.

电梯门一开，我到了厨房。

When it opened, I was in the kitchen.

到处都是护士、厨师和工作人员，我就那样从电梯里冲出来找出口。

There were nurses and cooks and workers all over the place, and there I was running out of the elevator looking for a way out.

所有人都瞪大了眼睛盯着我。

Everybody was just staring at me with wide eyes.

我看到房间对面有一扇开着的窗户，就朝它冲了过去。

I saw an open window across the room, and I went for it.

我也不知道自己是怎么完美地跳出去，但就是做到了。

How I made a perfect dive through that thing, do not know, but I did.

要是真有跳窗奥运会，我肯定能拿十分。

Would have gotten a 10 in the diving out of window Olympics.

我有没有提过，我完全不知道窗外是什么，甚至不知道是不是在一楼？

Did I mention that I had no idea what was outside the window or even if I was on ground level?

幸运的是，我落在人行道旁边的一小片草地上。

Lucky for me, I landed in a little grass strip that was next to the sidewalk.

米奇正从前门出来，大概50码远，朝车子那边指。

Mickey was coming out of the front door, which was about 50 yards away and pointing towards the car.

他打开后门，我跑过去跳进去，正好我们的司机——一个当地的冲浪爱好者——猛踩油门冲了出去。

He opened the back door and I ran and jumped in just as our driver, one of the local surfers, screeched out of there.

街上的人都惊呆了，一个半裸的外国佬飞奔而过，跳进一辆逃跑的车里。

People on the street were in a state of shock as this half naked gringo dude went streaking by and leaping into a getaway car.

这种事儿编都编不出来。

You could not script this stuff.

最绝的是，第二天早上我居然赢了比赛。

The capper was that I won the contest the next morning.

医院其实报了警，要抓我，因为我没付账单就走了。

The hospital had actually sent the police to arrest me for leaving without paying my bill.

不过幸好，我们的秘鲁东道主帮我把这事儿摆平了，我没被关进监狱。

But thankfully, our Peruvian hosts settled up on that, and I was not taken to jail.

浪挺大的，他们给了我们一个小时打决赛。

The surf was pretty big, and they gave us an hour for the final heat.

最好的五个浪会算进你的总分。

Best five rides would count for your total score.

我当时感觉不太好，就划到远处，等着最大的那几组浪。

I was not feeling great, and I paddled out far and just waited for the biggest sets.

我总共抓了六个浪，每一个都又大又长，得分也很高。

I caught a total of six waves, all of them big, long, and high scoring.

据我所知，秘鲁的赛事官员们不太高兴，因为我是第一个打败当地卫冕冠军的人，就是那位伟大的大浪作家，费利佩·波马尔。

From what I understand, the Peruvian contest officials were not real happy as I was the first one to beat the local defending champion, the great Big Wave writer, Felipe Pomar.

不过即便如此，他们还是很有风度，我拿到了一座大大的金银奖杯。

But even so, they were very gracious, and I got a big old gold and silver trophy.

那次冒险之后，我去了佛罗里达，参加号称世界小浪锦标赛的比赛。

Following that adventure, I went to Florida for what was billed as the World Small Wave Championship.

那时候我已经完全改用新的迷你型号，而且那年几乎每场比赛，只有我一个人用短板。

I was now riding the new mini model full time and was the only one riding shorter boards in just about every event that year.

我很难说服任何人相信这条路是对的。

I had a very hard time convincing anybody that this was the way to go.

冲浪店老板们不愿意进货，其他大多数选手也觉得他们还是用长板更好。

Surf shop owners did not wanna stock them, and most of the other competitors thought they were better off staying on their longboards.

关键在于我几乎赢了所有比赛，包括佛罗里达那场。

The catch was that I was winning almost all the events, including that one in Florida.

有些店会订购所谓的迷你型号，但长度有九英尺六英寸，根本不算迷你，其实就是贴了迷你型号贴纸的长板。

Some of the shops would order mini models that were like nine foot six inches long and weren't mini at all, just longboards with mini model stickers on them.

这很难推销。

It was a hard sell.

这段时期我最喜欢的回忆之一，是我带着一小批迷你型号去夏威夷，长度从八英尺二英寸到八英尺十一英寸，从小浪板到迷你枪都有。

One of my favorite memories of this period was when I went to Hawaii with a small quiver of mini models from eight foot two inches to eight foot eleven inches that ran from small wave to minigun.

当我遇到著名的冲浪板设计大师迪克·布鲁尔时，他直截了当地说：在夏威夷永远不会有人用短板，就这样。

When I ran into infamous surfboard designer guru Dick Brewer, his matter of fact quote was, they will never ride shortboards in Hawaii, period.

后来，他给加里·查普曼做了一块八英尺十一英寸的半枪板，至今还声称那是第一块迷你枪，而且是他一个人发明了短板。

Much later, he made an eight foot 11 inch semi gun for Gary Chapman, and to this day, claims that it was the very first minigun, and he and he alone invented the shortboard.

我喜欢这个说法。

I love that.

我不是说只有我一个人做到了。

Now I'm not saying that I and I alone did.

在我看来，这是经过几年演变的结果，很多人都有参与。

In my mind, it was an evolution that took place over a few years, and many hands were involved in it.

但我想说的是，迪克把功劳揽到自己身上挺搞笑的，因为大约一年前他自己做了一块之前，他还信誓旦旦地跟我说，夏威夷永远不会有人骑短板。

But I am saying it's pretty funny that Dick takes credit for this when, like, a year before he made one himself, he told me beyond a shadow a doubt that they would never ride shortboards in Hawaii.

这不是对迪克不敬。

This is meaning no disrespect to Dick.

他是一位伟大且传奇的制板师和设计师。

He is a great and legendary shaper and designer.

他在霍比工作时给我做过一些最好的大浪板，但这只是说明我在第一年为了让冲浪界接受九英尺以下的板子，经历了多大的艰难。

Some of my best Big Wave boards ever were shaped by him when he worked for Hobie, but it is just an example of the uphill battle I was going through in order to get the surfing world to get on board with under nine foot lengths during that first year.

我再次赢得了美国锦标赛，然后去波多黎各赢得了波多黎各国际赛，最后在圣克鲁斯的斯蒂默斯巷的大浪中赢得了第一届国际职业锦标赛，结束了这一年。

I would wind up winning the United States Championship again, then traveling to Puerto Rico to win the Puerto Rico International, and finally finished off the year by winning the first International Professional Championship in big surf at Steamers Lane in Santa Cruz.

那是我竞技生涯中最好的年份之一，到年底，人们终于开始睁开眼睛，打开心扉，意识到也许短板这件事真的要发生了。

That was one of the best years I had competitively speaking, and by the end of the year, people were finally starting to open their eyes and minds to the fact that maybe this shortboard thing was really going to happen.

1967年11月，另一件好事就是我娶了一位名叫谢丽尔·亨德里克斯的好姑娘。

Another good thing that happened to me in November 1967 was getting married to a great girl named Cheryl Hendrix.

谢丽尔从好莱坞搬到了圣克莱门特，那年我们大部分时间都在约会。

Cheryl had moved to San Clemente from Hollywood, and we had been dating for most of the year.

她非常漂亮，长着棕色长发和棕色眼睛，而且直到今天，她依然是我认识的最好的人之一，真的是一个心地善良的人。

She was very pretty with long brown hair and brown eyes, and to this day, one of the best people I have ever known and truly is one of those with a heart of gold.

夏天的时候，我们一起去了俄勒冈州，我在一个叫奥特岩的地方参加了俄勒冈州冲浪锦标赛。

During the summer, we made a trip to Oregon together where I surfed in the Oregon State Championship at a place called Otter Rock.

可能就是在这次旅行中，我们之间的感情真正稳固下来，最终走向了婚姻。

It was probably on that trip that things really gelled between us and led to us getting married.

这也是我在那个地区冲浪逐渐增多的一部分。

It was also part of a growing thing with me surfing in that part of the world.

我之前曾去过那里参加在波特兰举行的詹森大会。

I had been up there previously for a Jansen convention held in Portland.

有一天空闲时，我雇了一辆出租车带我去海边，想看看那里有没有浪。

On a free day, I hired a taxi driver to take me to the coast so I could see if there was any surf up there.

让我惊讶的是，我发现了很棒的海浪和一个完美的左手浪点。

To my amazement, I found great waves and a perfect left point.

从那时起一直到七十年代初期到中期，我每年秋天都会花几周时间在俄勒冈州海岸冲浪，但主要是在海边，那里有那个左手浪点。

From that time through the early to mid nineteen seventies, I spent a couple of weeks a year in the fall surfing all over the Oregon Coast, but mostly around seaside where that left point is.

一开始，只有我一个人在海里。

In the beginning, I would be the only person out.

后来，当地人也开始更多地冲浪，还有一些人从圣克鲁斯和加州其他地方搬过来。

Then local guys started surfing more, and others moved up from Santa Cruz and other areas of California.

到了七十年代初，那里开始变得排外了。

By the early nineteen seventies, it was getting localized.

我最后一次去是在我住在爱达荷州太阳谷的那几年。

The last time I went was during the years I was living in Sun Valley, Idaho.

这个以后再说。

More on that later.

而且那里是最近的冲浪地点。

And it was the closest surfing spot.

我一直很喜欢那里。

Always loved it up there.

那种山景与海浪、大海结合的感觉，对我来说特别有吸引力。

The combination of mountain esque scenery with surf and ocean is alluring to me.

不过现在写这些的时候，我肯定受不了那种冷，不像当年那样了。

Although now, as I'm writing this, I would never be able to deal with the cold like I could back then.

说实话吧。

Let's face it.

那里真的特别冷。

It's really cold up there.

大概就是在那段时间，有一次我去那边冲浪，发现一个小海湾里有一栋特别酷的房子在卖，前面就是冲浪点。

It was around this time when I was on one of my surf trips up there that I found a really cool house for sale in a little cove that had a surf spot out front.

有一块大石头，左边能冲左浪，右边能冲右浪。

There was a big rock with a left going off one side of it and a right on the other.

那是一栋很大的五居室新英格兰风格房子，还带大约半英亩地，坐落在海滩上方的一个小丘上。

It was a big five bedroom New England style place that came with, like, a half acre of land on a little knoll above the beach.

价格大约是一万美元。

The price was about $10,000.

那时候，这笔钱可不少，但我却开始琢磨着怎么才能把它买下来。

At that time, this was a considerable amount of money, but I found myself thinking about how I might be able to buy it.

差不多就在那时，有个叫吉姆·詹克斯的家伙正想筹钱创办一家软件公司，他打算把它叫做“海洋太平洋”。

It was around then a dude named Jim Jenks was trying to raise money to start a software company that he was gonna call Ocean Pacific.

吉姆找了达纳角一带不少可能有闲钱投资的人，提出只要投资一万美元，就能拥有这家新公司9.9%的股份。

Jim went to a number of people in the Dana Point area who might have money to invest and offered a 9.9% ownership of this new company for an investment of $10,000.

又是那个数字。

There was that number again.

有意思的是，我储蓄账户里的钱差不多正好是这个数。

The funny thing was that I had almost exactly that in my savings account.

这个决定真的很难做。

This was a really hard decision to make.

是买下俄勒冈那栋超棒的海滨别墅，还是投资海洋太平洋呢。

Buy the really cool beach house in Oregon or invest in Ocean Pacific.

我当时真不确定吉姆能不能把冲浪装备这事儿搞成，而且我还觉得应该叫“大西洋太平洋”，因为大部分冲浪生意都在东海岸。

I wasn't really sure that Jim was gonna be able to pull off the surfware thing, and I also thought it should have been called Ocean Atlantic because the majority of the surfing business was on the East Coast.

所以我在脑子里翻来覆去地想，最后做了任何一个19岁、痴迷冲浪和玩乐的年轻人都会做的事。

So I molded over and over in my mind and did exactly what any 19 year old surf and fun crazed dude would do.

我买了一辆全新的09/11保时捷。

I bought a brand new 09/11 Porsche.

太爽了！

Hell yes.

难道还有别的选择吗？

Was there really any other choice?

OP后来是不是成了历史上最成功、最赚钱的冲浪品牌之一？

Did OP go on to become one of the most successful and profitable surfing businesses in history?

嗯，是的。

Well, yes.

俄勒冈那栋房子后来是不是值了好几百万？

Did the house in Oregon wind up being worth a couple million?

对，还有那回事。

Well, yeah, there's that too.

那辆保时捷我还留着吗？

Do I still have the Porsche?

嗯，没有了。

Well, no.

它是不是让我花了一大笔钱在超速罚单、保险和天价保养上？

Did it cost me a fortune in speeding tickets and insurance plus sky high maintenance cost?

那也是。

That too.

我有没有后悔过这个选择？

Did I ever regret this choice?

有时候有点后悔，但现在不了。

Sometimes a little bit, yes, but not anymore.

我现在非常热爱我的生活。

I love my life right at this minute.

如果当时我没有按那种方式做事，现在可能就不会在这里做我现在做的事情了。

And if I had not done things the way that I did them then, I might not be where I am now doing what I'm doing.

所以从这个角度看，我不后悔那些决定，尽管当时看起来挺傻的。

So in that regard, I don't regret those decisions as stupid as they were at the time.

霍比买下了同时提供给他和我的那份股份。

Hobie bought the share offered to both him and to me.

后来几年，当我艰难求生时，我提到他从那笔OP投资中赚了好几百万。

In later years, when I was struggling to find a way to survive, I mentioned the multimillions he had made from that investment in OP.

我问他能不能分我一点，觉得这样才算公平。

I asked him if I could have some, thinking it only fair.

他咧嘴一笑，就说了句，不行。

He smiled big and just said, nope.

唉，算了。

Oh, well.

十一月，他们在圣克鲁斯的蒸汽巷举办了第一届国际职业业余配对赛。

In November, they held the first international pro am at Steamers Lane in Santa Cruz.

职业组设有现金奖金。

There would be a cash prize for the pro division.

浪很大，决赛中只有我一个人用的是短板。

The surf was big, I was the only one riding a shortboard in the finals.

虽然那一年对我来说很常见，但这可能是最后一次了。

Although this was common for me that year, this was probably the last time that that happened.

不管怎样，那天我表现很好，记得拿了一张400美元的冠军支票。

In any case, I had a very good day and took home a winner's check for a whopping $400, as I remember.

那年12月从夏威夷回来后，我和谢丽尔决定在波多黎各度过剩下的冬天。

After coming back from Hawaii that December, Sheryl and I decided to spend the rest of the winter in Puerto Rico.

我去那里参加国际锦标赛时就喜欢上了那里。

I had liked it when I went there for the international championships.

当他们宣布明年秋天世界锦标赛将在那里举行时，我们刚得知谢丽尔怀孕了，所以我觉得那会是个在宝宝出生前好好放松的好机会。

When they had announced that the world championship would be held there the next fall, we had just found out that Cheryl was pregnant too, so I thought it'd be a great getaway before the baby was born.

我们于1968年1月初到达，最后租了一间建在山坡上的小混凝土房子，可以俯瞰海滩。

We arrived in early January nineteen sixty eight and wound up renting a little concrete house on a hill overlooking the beach.

一个惊人的巧合是，我的好朋友汤姆·莫里——就是那个冲浪鼻板比赛的汤姆·莫里——也刚到那里，就住在我们隔壁，和他妻子一起。

An amazing coincidence was that my pal Tom Mori, same as the nose riding contest Tom Mori, had just gotten there and was living right next door with his wife.

这真是运气太好了，我们四个人一起度过了几个月的快乐时光。

It was a great bit of luck as the four of us had a wonderful few months hanging out.

我们一起冲浪，聊天讲故事，还聊汤姆想出来的各种奇怪的理论。

We surfed and talked story and all kinds of weird theory stuff that Tom would come up with.

他就像是冲浪界的疯狂科学家。

He's like surfing's mad scientist.

我带了四块冲浪板，其中一块是燕尾板，装了三片鳍的配置，中间一片，两边各一片。

I had taken four boards with me, one which was a swallowtail with the setup for three fins, one in the middle and two on the outside.

这样，它可以作为单片鳍、双片鳍或三片鳍来使用。

This way, it could be ridden as either a single fin or a twin fin or a tri fin.

最大的问题是，那时候的鳍又大又重。

The big problem was that this was in the time of big heavy fins.

这块板有三个鳍盒，也很重。

This board had three fin boxes that were also heavy.

所以尽管在设计上远远超前于那个时代，但实际上并不怎么好用，因为额外的鳍和鳍盒增加了重量，导致尾部太重，整体表现非常差。

So even though it was way ahead of its time design wise, it still was not really that functional as all the weight from the extra fins and boxes made it so tail heavy that it just didn't work very well at all.

不过它确实引发了我和汤姆之间大量的讨论，关于多鳍冲浪板，还有我们能想到的各种天马行空的想法。

It did stimulate a ton of discussion between Tom and me about multi fin boards and just about every other kind of cosmic idea we could come up with.

说实话，大部分内容我都没怎么听懂。

I didn't understand much of it, to tell you the truth.

汤姆的思维比我超前得多，想得也更深更远。

Tom's mind thought in much farther out spheres than mine.

我只知道怎么驾驭这些板子，对它们为什么好用有一些自己的想法。

I just knew how to ride the things and had some ideas on what made them work.

而汤姆呢，却把这一切和太空旅行、精神悬浮联系起来。

Meanwhile, Tom is relating the whole thing to space travel and spiritual levitation.

在大多数对话中，我最主要的贡献就是偶尔说一句“哇”。

My most productive contribution to most of the conversations was the occasional wow.

不过在那个六十年代末，“哇”可是个很流行的词，用来形容各种事情。

But then wow was a big word in the late sixties used for all sort of things.